Wiring and more wiring over the last week, at least I am getting better at making up the AMP connectors. I can do a 2 pole female connector in about 20 minutes the male takes at least twice as long. I suppose I am about 50 to 60% done now.
All good practice though because the project after next is a 1974 3½ Morini which also needs a complete rewire.
I got the new solenoid (for a Z1000 Kwak) through the post and being smaller it required a new mounting bracket so I knocked one up from 3mm aluminium. Bonus was a 25 gram weight saving over the original M900 offering.
Also, whilst doing the boring wiring work, I have had the chance to do some pondering.
1) the best way to enhance the alternator output leads. The existing ones are encased into a circular moulded sheath which fits nicely through the sealing gland in the alternator case. Using two heavier gauge wires will obviously lead to a sealing problem at the gland (as the cross section will not be circular) unless I can think of a way of making a sheath with approximately the same OD where the new cables go through the gland.
2) whether or not to use the expensive connector between the alternator and the rectifier. I decided to make a junction using two 20mm bits of bored 6mm brass hexagon bar with 4 x 4mm grub screws to secure the cable all insulated with heat shrinks
3) how to minimise the impact of flex of the loom and cables around the headstock. This is an issue for me because:
a) the bulk of my connectors are forward of the headstock; and,
b) I have erred on the side of caution when selecting the cable sizes for particular circuits (I have used thin wall insulation cable with more copper and less insulation than original) which means that the loom will be a bit inflexible; and
c) I do not want the connections to the MUV2 unit directly behind the headstock to be subjected to fore and aft pressure when the handlebars are turned
I think I have a cunning plan which if it works will be brilliant, if it does not you will never hear of it again.
4) aesthetics – a) decided that the running light and the proposed front indicators looked naff so I did away with the running light and the indicators with yet more filler on the front fly screen mold; and
b) final colour of the bike, I had been leaning towards the Paul Smart Bevel Imola colours with the same old style logos, but could never quite see myself on a greeny - blue framed bike. I am as near certain as I can be of the final chosen colour, though it may yet change. As to logo style I will follow the logos cast into the cam castings
Today I will have to chase up delivery of my fork legs from Maxton and the CF wheels, both of which are now overdue.
