No garage time over the last week or so except to machine Albie’s bar ends (now finished so you can collect them whenever convenient).
I did spend some time internet searching for rear wheel adjuster blocks and rear spindle and probably located some at a breaker in Chelmsford, but will have to wait until after the Christmas shut down to find out if they are still available. All the cheaper ones available were in the USA where they seem to price low and then load the shipping costs so they work out much more expensive than UK sellers. Also, buying from the USA, you never really know whether you are going to get stuffed for VAT + customs duty + handling charges etc., etc.
In case they were not available, I also thought about making the adjuster blocks from scratch from aluminium flat but the S4 blocks are sized 62.5mm deep x 24.5mm thick meaning they would require access to a milling machine (which I do not have and would not know how to use it if I did) as the only appropriate standard size aluminium flat available was 100mm x 25mm (and it came 2metres long and £78) which made this a non-viable option.
I have therefore spent my “insomnia” time puzzling over wiring diagrams and so far have found it very discouraging. I have:
1) the Haynes M900 wiring diagram
2) a “simplified” vehicle circuit diagram supplied with the MUV2 control unit, and
3) a picture of the speedo/rev counter/instrument light unit with 16 colour coded wires emanating from it.
The problem I am having is that the MUV2 unit requires you to make all switches effectively earth switches, the unit itself has 8 input ports and 8 output ports, these are labelled Turn L, Start, Horn, Turn R, Configuration (managing side stand and kill switch), Lights, Brake and Lock (ignition).
I have photocopied about 15 times a block diagram of each electrically connected element and have been working through each circuit in turn trying to work out the “to be” wiring diagram.
My problem has been that the “simplified” MUV2 diagram shows for example only 2 outputs coming out of the regulator, earth and regulated voltage to the battery. In the case of the actual regulator there are in fact effectively 4,
1) an earth,
2) a red lead (power to the battery)
3) a white/ red going to the charge warning light (which is linked to the neutral warning light via a blue/black to the neutral switch) and to the neutral warning light, and
4) a red /black going to the fuse box and to the engine stop switch.
There are no ports in or out on the MUV2 specifying what to do with:
Neutral light,
Low Fuel warning light.
Oil pressure warning light
Side stand warning light (it is so long since I rode it I cannot remember whether the M900 has in fact got one).
None of the above would want to be wired to the same circuit as the stop switch or the stand cut out as then a bulb down would effectively stop the bike.
In trying to produce a “to be” wiring diagram I think I have 2 problems,
a) the internal circuit diagram for the MUV2 is not available (which I probably would not understand if it was) and
b)I do not understand the M900 schematic diagram when it comes to relays.
I will doubtless get there in the end but I do find it brain numbing.
I am definitely going to cut a piece of ply and make a life size model of the centre-line of the bike and attaching my loom as it is made to the board, testing each circuit off the bike.
Some brighter news, Father Christmas brought me these. Hopefully I will be able to do some tidier brazing with this and keep the workpiece in the lathe central.
