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The very early AJS & Matchless "Jampot" and also later "Candlestick" rear shocks had a similar sort of thing going on with large aluminium clevises threaded onto the bottom of the steel shock bodies.
Enterprising sorts could remove the clevises from old shocks to put onto nice new ones with the appropriate thread machined on.
I vaguely recall a method that they employed which involved placing the stripped shock in the chuck of a lathe and then engaging the clevis on a dog fixed in some way (to the tool post?).
I think the chuck was then turned by hand to unscrew the clevis. I can't imagine a lathe having enough torque to do it under power... But I'm guessing you don't have access to a lathe anyway.
I think the secret was to get a good solid purchase on the shock and a nice concentric turn.
A really good way to hold circular things, is to bore a hole exactly the same size as, eg your fork stanchion, in a piece of wood or metal. Then slit down the side of the hole... Pretty much replicating the way the yoke clamps the leg.
The bored and slitted block can then be clamped firmly in a good vice and it will not let the stanchion rotate, nor damage it.
The best way to get a good concentric turn that I can think of would be to clamp a 17mm or 25mm tube (which ever applicable) in the axle hole, with equal lengths out of each end and apply equal force to both ends... Probably a hefty bloke on each end?
Heat on the ally end only, is going to help.
The above would also be a good way to re-fit the end onto a new stanchion.
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