Fosse Foxfight
02-07-2004, 02:48 PM
OK, further to the galvanic corrosion stainless in aluminium debate with Dom, I am now able to offer this advice on torque settings when using copper anti seize grease.
The message is this. Use the reccommeded torque settings!!
But, use this procedure for bolts and nuts etc.
Always as good practice make sure the thread you are putting the bolt or nut into/onto is clean. If you are replacing bolts then as you withdraw the oold ones check the thread on removal for signs of galvanic corrosion, recogniasble as a whitish/greyish powder like deposit. If a significant deposit is present then it would be good practice to send a tap down the thread to clean the thread, and then blow out.
Prime the threaded hole with copper grease, and prime the thread of the new bolt with copper grease and insert bolt and screw in until about 3-4mm of the bolt shank are still visible.
Now comes the important bit!
Thoroughly clean the area around the hole, the shank and the back face of the bolt so no copper grease is present. This will then allow the bolt to butt up against the face with no ant seize compound present and thus allow a real torque value to be achieved as an appropriate source of friction (yes, friction can be our friend :lol: ) is available.
Failure to observe this procedure can lead you to stretch, and possibly strip the weaker threads on the bike. Of course this is more pertinent where bolting with steel, stainless steel, titanium into aluminium, ie on wheels and casings, although steel into steel will also appreciate this procedure.
You will notice I dont mention washers! Reason being in so many places on the Monster there are no washers..eg disc mounting bolts, yoke pinch bolts.
So there ya go.
Sean
The message is this. Use the reccommeded torque settings!!
But, use this procedure for bolts and nuts etc.
Always as good practice make sure the thread you are putting the bolt or nut into/onto is clean. If you are replacing bolts then as you withdraw the oold ones check the thread on removal for signs of galvanic corrosion, recogniasble as a whitish/greyish powder like deposit. If a significant deposit is present then it would be good practice to send a tap down the thread to clean the thread, and then blow out.
Prime the threaded hole with copper grease, and prime the thread of the new bolt with copper grease and insert bolt and screw in until about 3-4mm of the bolt shank are still visible.
Now comes the important bit!
Thoroughly clean the area around the hole, the shank and the back face of the bolt so no copper grease is present. This will then allow the bolt to butt up against the face with no ant seize compound present and thus allow a real torque value to be achieved as an appropriate source of friction (yes, friction can be our friend :lol: ) is available.
Failure to observe this procedure can lead you to stretch, and possibly strip the weaker threads on the bike. Of course this is more pertinent where bolting with steel, stainless steel, titanium into aluminium, ie on wheels and casings, although steel into steel will also appreciate this procedure.
You will notice I dont mention washers! Reason being in so many places on the Monster there are no washers..eg disc mounting bolts, yoke pinch bolts.
So there ya go.
Sean