Fitting decals

[queen_gpants]

I've bought a full set of silver Corse decals for the front mudguard, bikini fairing, tank and seat pod

I've carefully read the instructions; I've got to take the bodywork off inc the tank, bring it all indoors, thoroughly clean everything, mark it all out with a chinagraph pencil etc

It's a really long process and if I get it wrong it'll look ****e and I'll have wasted a lot of money.

Has anyone else fitted these themselves or should I get a professional to fit them and have them laquered afterwards?

This is what they'll look like finished

TANK (http://www.badgirl-racing.com/~lb156378/corse%20stripe1.jpg)

MUDGUARD (http://www.badgirl-racing.com/~lb156378/corse%20stripe2.jpg)

SEAT POD (http://www.badgirl-racing.com/~lb156378/corse%20stripe3.jpg)

[Byron Kauffman]

If you have never done this before it would be best to practice on something else. Get some contact paper or scrap decal material from a local sign shop and practice on your trash bin or fridge or whatever. Putting decals on cleanly with no dirt or wrinkles on a curved object is a learned skill. I dont know if your instructions mentioned wetting the surface or not. When we would put large decals on cars (like the big chicken on the bonnet of a Pontiac Trans AM), we would put a few drops of washing up liguid in a bucket of water. Then apply just a light coating of water to the vehicle surface. This makes the decal not stick completely and gives you a chance to move it around and get it centered. You can then use a soft squeege to work out the water while holding the decal in place. As the water is removed the decal will grab as intended. Then sit the vehicle in the sun or warm with a hair dryer to evaporate the remaining water. This is the same technique used by window tint installers.
If you want to have the decals cleared over, check with your local paint shop first. They may want to scuff the paint before you add decals and check that the clear will not react with the decal.

[Byron Kauffman]

On a second note... It is much easier to mark positions on the vehicle with tape. The pencil marks your instructions note are hard to see and get confusing if you make a mistake. You can cut masking tape into little strips and stick right to the vehicle. they can be moved easy and provide a edge that you can bump the new decal up against for alignment. When everything is on and dry, just peel off the tape.

Hope all this helps.
If not any good local sign shop should be used to working with large decals.

[Chris]

If you've not done this sort of syuff before, I'd get somebody to do it for you, you don't want to get bubbles under the stickers! It's not easy and you only really get 1 chance. I think they'll look more stock and last better if you get them laquered over, and give an extra depth of shine.

[Gizmo]

I'd go with Byron on this. I always get the job of decalling our race trucks and best method is to line up the decal without removing backing then put masking under it as a guide, we used a garden type spray gun with the washing up liquid in to thoroughly wet the area and rewet an area if needed, apply decal slide into place and dry as Byron says. Take you time and work slowly and smoothly.

[Gizmo]

Sorry Celeste, is the tank decal cutout for filler cap?? If not you'll need a fine modelling type scalpel to get a neat edge,

[queen_gpants]

All I've got is 4 long strips of decals which I have to cut to shape and separate Corse decals.

The company suppiled 4 pages of instructions, they give you a list of tools and then step by step instructions.

They say to spray the bodywork with a weak solution of washing up liquid and also the adhesive side of the decal so everything is slippery and you can get it all in place properly.

Having read peoples comments I think I'm going to get a bodywork place down the road to do it and then get them to laquer it.

I would have liked it all done for the TT but I want it done properly so I'll wait.

[Gizmo]

Its probably best to let the pros do it if you've never done it before, its easy to get air bubbles and if you over laquer they show up.

We've got a vinyl cutter at work with which I made the decals for my GF's mountain bike, even with careful appication I still had a couple of bubbles which need to be pricked before they went the into powder laquer oven. They expand with the heat if you don't.

Post the pics when its all done please

[A Yerbury]

i bought a corse front kit from meteor motorcycles on ebay, all the gumph about water/hairdyers was not needed at all, just stuck on fine! u can realign them once they are down too. Though I thought the stripe was too big so I used the pin stripes for the side in the middle, cut the thick one in 4 with scalpel and steel rule so i ended up with one thin stripe surrounded by 2 larger one if that makes sense!? bonus was that the fender kit was enough for the tank too. then when I bought the seat cowl I used white fablon from diy place (much cheper and exatly the same stuff.
enjoy!
ps Im not sure about lacquering these as they are quite thick compared to proper ducati logo decals
Alex

[A Yerbury]

good ole fablon! I m now going to do Uma Thurman kill bill helmet stripes in black. I'm sure I could be doing domething more intellectually stimulating with my free time................................

[Gizmo]

Vinyl for die cut decals comes in a lot of different types rangiing from about £1 a metre up to £30 for a top of the line UV stable fluro 3M vinyl. I'd use a good outdoor life vinyl on a bike, anything less will almost certainly start to deteriorate in sunlight. When we used to produce our MTB decals out of vinyl we always used 3M, tried others but after about 2 years the colour had faded, my van decals only last about 3 years even with the best vinyl because they are fluro orange, the silver bits last longer.

I'd stil use water and a hair dryer, I've wrecked too much vinyl thinking I could do it dry.

[A Yerbury]

very valid points, although I see u have the silver not the white Q G so it may be diff stuff? also the water may be needed as its a larger stripe so going over contours more chance of bubbles. Id still say give it a go, trying the cowl first to get yr confidence up. I still think the corse kits are a bit steep as they are just adhesive rectangles and the badges (IMO look a bit tacky!) get stuck in!
Alex

[Dave in USA]

Celeste,

check your PM box :)

[queen_gpants]

Thanks for the PM Dave :)

I'm going to take it to a professional either Dave's mate or the guy who repaired our Jeep recently as he also does bikes, he did an amazing job and he's also respraying my 888 later in the year.

I'm getting an undertray and hugger painted so match the rest of the bodywork so I think I'll get it all done at the same time.

[JMo]

Originally posted by Gizmo
Its probably best to let the pros do it if you've never done it before, its easy to get air bubbles and if you over laquer they show up.

That's no guarentee! - those to**ers at Dre*m Machi*e couldn't even get my regular Ducati tank badges right - took them four attempts - duh! (and the paint still isn't 100%).

But I agree QGP - if you're at all unsure, get someone to do them for you - much safer...

xxx

[Garry Hogan]

I bought the same kit as you and although it sounded a bit daunting, I followed the instructions, took my time, used the hairdrier and soapy water (oooerr!) and with a bit of 'faffing' and patience they all came out superb! There were a few tiny bubbles, but once the decals were dry, a minute with a pin and the hairdrier and all was well - and still is! The surfaces need to be squeaky clean to start with and don't be shy with the soapy water and drier. Once the decal starts to get warmth from the drier, it becomes quite pliable and as you've used plenty of 'Fairy', it will slide about to the position you desire! Hope this helps, Garry. :D

[queen_gpants]

Garry have you got any pictures?

[NattyBoy]

Hi C

Well I like to be different...!!! Have a go yourself. I did my seat cowl and it really was a doddle (people think its been sprayed on !!!!) Because you slide them into place with detergent/water, you get all the time you want to position them and once youve attcked it with the hairdryer the finish is excellent. Did you get the kit from meteor ??

Cheers
Nat

[NattyBoy]

Just found a pic of my seat with the decal kit fitted if thats helps C...

Nat

[queen_gpants]

I'm not too worried about fitting the decals to the seat cowel and front mudguard, its the tank that puts me off.

I might have a go on the seat cowel when I get back from the TT as that looks the easiest.

Thanks for the pics Nat :)

[tony_unn]

QGP do you have to buy 4 seperate kits to complete the bike.
Fairing, mudgaurd, tank and set cowl.
:confused:

[queen_gpants]

I bought the decals as a complete kit from Ebay, they cost me about £56 plus postage from Australia.

This is the guy selling them, he advertises every week.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=35616&item=7903014186