Ben's 900 Monster build

[900Rebuilder]

Here's the start of my 900 build sat on the bench having just come back from a mates to have the seat lock holder welded back on. I'm in the process of sanding out all the rust marks on the frame so that its ready for powder coating. This is going to be a slow build over the winter primarily due to funds...

https://i.postimg.cc/4dqnjcN4/Monster-frame-picture.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Kk7ZMRMC)

[Moco1961]

Good start ! Nice neat man cave too btw ,looking forward to a good build thread:thumbsup: glad to see you have “ lubricant” to hand too :mand::booze:

[Mark64]

It's about time Ben! Good luck with it all though, and enjoy it, got to love a good build thread ;-)

[900Rebuilder]

Good start ! Nice neat man cave too btw ,looking forward to a good build thread:thumbsup: glad to see you have “ lubricant” to hand too :mand::booze:

This is the workshop end, the Jeep and all the bike parts occupy the rest of the space ;)

[900Rebuilder]

It's about time Ben! Good luck with it all though, and enjoy it, got to love a good build thread ;-)

Yes Mark - life and all its challenges have kind of got in the way over the last few years so its got to be done this winter. I've still got those parts from you so they will be used in this build :)

[Davy]

Jeep/defender.?

[slob]

nice… and moerzeke’s brew, once voted the best beer in the world

[900Rebuilder]

Jeep/defender.?

No as in 1942 Ford GPW - think Willys Jeep as they are the same but made out of Detroit steel ;)

[Mark64]

Yes Mark - life and all its challenges have kind of got in the way over the last few years so its got to be done this winter. I've still got those parts from you so they will be used in this build :)
Nice one pal, what do they say 'life happens when you're making other plans' ain't that the truth!
And good choice with the beer, although Leffe is my favourite Belgian brew

[900Rebuilder]

Frame sanding to remove grinder damage (was me being over-zealous);

https://i.postimg.cc/Qx1mn5VM/Frame-grinder-damage.jpg (https://postimg.cc/vc8544rR)

Frame rust that I'm removing before coating;

https://i.postimg.cc/02VjvXzX/Frame-rust.jpg (https://postimg.cc/BX14cgc2)

Swingarm that needs attention;

https://i.postimg.cc/G3WwykZ3/Swingarm.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XXkzMyjt)

Collection of bits that will need painting to match;

https://i.postimg.cc/fRZP7ZDk/Bike-parts.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bsCL87Gj)

45mm headers from Silmotor;

https://i.postimg.cc/d3Xm326z/45mm-headers.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gLV6B6fD)

Seat been recovered;

https://i.postimg.cc/cJkL3Fqk/Alcantara.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HJ5mD4kb)

900ie lump;

https://i.postimg.cc/135n2CQM/900ie-engine.jpg (https://postimg.cc/zV6GRk3R)

Maxton bits;

https://i.postimg.cc/vBdQFTnM/Maxton-bits.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gwN93Y4B)

The old girl from '42;

https://i.postimg.cc/1tRjqZhw/Ford-GPW.jpg (https://postimg.cc/t1f5Kwg4)

[Jam911]

Lots to do...good luck

[Jez900ie]

Looking good, and I can't think of a better Monster to spend all that time & money on - an M900ie FTW!

It has been said that I'm a little biased.

https://i.postimg.cc/cJpFwg8D/900ie0902.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cKc7NJhY)calabash breakfast (https://thesawmillgrill.com/)

[900Rebuilder]

Lots to do...good luck

Yes its just past the start phase of dismantling n cleaning etc (that was years back), followed by lots of ebay trawling for parts over some of the middle years...

Now its getting the frame coated and onto the engine - trouble is I removed the air filter pod brackets with a grinder (badly) and also the seat lock bracket when I was going to do a tail chop plus the frame is moderately rusty under the paint meaning it needs fettling to be smooth before its done.

[900Rebuilder]

Looks very tidy! What wheels are you running as I fancied the 5-spoke later type in mine but have the 3-spoke Cagiva ones for now?

[900Rebuilder]

Not much progress on the bike whilst I'm waiting on a friend of a friend to set up a new powder coating business in Derby. Managed to chop the very top off my finger cutting up some emery cloth with a Stanley knife which sort of slowed things down a tad. My oil cooler guard has arrived from this very forum and certainly looks the part and has been added to my bits boxes for the build

https://i.postimg.cc/xdHtcFp4/Oil-cooler-guard.jpg (https://postimg.cc/06kp4ZsY)

[900Rebuilder]

The RoadRacing number plate holder arrived safe n sound from Nasher. RoadRacing appear to get some criticism for average build quality but I've got to say this seems very well made and definitely worth the money!

https://i.postimg.cc/hj3h2LN1/Tail-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JDZ1nkrs)

https://i.postimg.cc/rmZ4b0DM/Tail-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/dkdDZ0Rx)

[Jam911]

Looks Great

[Darren69]

Well done so far and echoing what others have alteady said 'about time' but then it really is all about time isnt it? If you need any bits let me know on here or mobile. You never know as a lot of S4 and S4R bits will fit the M900

[900Rebuilder]

Well done so far and echoing what others have alteady said 'about time' but then it really is all about time isnt it? If you need any bits let me know on here or mobile. You never know as a lot of S4 and S4R bits will fit the M900

Cheers :) probably will need some bits but I'm at that think I've got it all phase but deep down really know there's some odd stuff still to find.

Things that I can easily address but not visually is the fatbars into the stock clamps, the 900ie motor into the 900 carb frame, the 900m speedo with 916 spindle for the forks and finally the Brembo radial master cylinders onto original braided lines...

[900Rebuilder]

Had to resort to buying a set of tired indicators on ebay just to find the mount brackets. Even these are missing the locating lugs on them but can probably be rescued somehow.

https://i.postimg.cc/446HGK8q/Indicator-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/t7g4tgGN)

https://i.postimg.cc/hPhrtbHh/Indicator-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/kB38j8Md)

[Dukedesmo]

Not sure what the lugs were like or fi glue would be good enough, my vote goes to plastic welding.

All you need is a soldering iron and some cable ties.

[900Rebuilder]

Not sure what the lugs were like or fi glue would be good enough, my vote goes to plastic welding.

All you need is a soldering iron and some cable ties.

Thinking of using small allen bolts screwed n glued in place ;)

[Mr Gazza]

I think Albie did this with some plastic number plate bolts somehow.

[900Rebuilder]

I think Albie did this with some plastic number plate bolts somehow.

Probably similar to what I was thinking but could be an ideal solution as I'd imagine the plastic screw being strong enough for the job but sacrificial when required :)

[Albie]

Drill and tap holes m6 in the same place. Take 2 black number plate screws the ones with the reduced front locatirs. These are the same size as the original lines.. Frome the back then screw the bolts through until the threaded portion stops the cut off the back with a chisel or sharp knife flat. You can glue but not necessary as plastic taps tight. Done a few now for customers of Proteam. Cost about 10p for bolts

[900Rebuilder]

Carbs now ordered from Allen's Performance with delivery expected anytime between 3 weeks and 3 months from now.

They have the Keihin FCR's in stock and didn't try and convince me to swap from my chosen Mikuni TDMR's to them and even said that the Mikuni uses a higher quality bearing system (assuming throttle slide here) and agreed that whilst not essential the choke function was handy for everyday use.

[900Rebuilder]

Drill and tap holes m6 in the same place. Take 2 black number plate screws the ones with the reduced front locatirs. These are the same size as the original lines.. Frome the back then screw the bolts through until the threaded portion stops the cut off the back with a chisel or sharp knife flat. You can glue but not necessary as plastic taps tight. Done a few now for customers of Proteam. Cost about 10p for bolts

Thanks - only just spotted this top-tip :thumbsup:

[900Rebuilder]

After ages waiting UPS brought some lovely bits for the build...

https://i.postimg.cc/ZKLHKSps/Carbs-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/jLLPZB8y)

https://i.postimg.cc/2S7SKHpZ/Carbs-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/nXMxsGhF)

[deanyoungblood]

I have some indicator mounts that I have no use for if you need some? The mounting tabs look similar to the ones you’ve pictured however.

[900Rebuilder]

https://i.postimg.cc/YC3w27KH/Yokes-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/TKpsQZ37)

https://i.postimg.cc/3wRzKDFX/Yokes-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/hXk2svwv)

https://i.postimg.cc/5yntFCDx/Yokes-3.jpg (https://postimg.cc/BPP3rXqy)

https://i.postimg.cc/90FmVf0s/Yokes-4.jpg (https://postimg.cc/hz6W1c90)

Typed out a long entry then the forum crashed :(

Need some angled risers to fit my stock bored top yoke and to clear the 916 forks I'm using whilst also allowing fat bars to be fitted - need to see where I can purchase or commission some so please feel free to make some suggestions? :)

[900Rebuilder]

I have some indicator mounts that I have no use for if you need some? The mounting tabs look similar to the ones you’ve pictured however.

Thanks but I think mine can be save :)

[350TSS]

With regard to the handlebar risers and from a position of no actual knowledge I would suggest that:
1 916 forks are probably shorter than Monster forks so there would be little necessity to make the legs protrude through the top yoke,
2. given 1 above it should be possible to use the standard handlebar clamps un-extended with a set of bars that has an upward crank (not ape-hangers) and still miss the tops of the preload adjusters on the 916 fork caps,
3. personally I would be against using extender blocks above the set of standard Monster handle bar clamps both aesthetically and because the clamp bolts themselves will probably have to be made longer and they would be under more stress at the junction of the Monster top yoke and the original Monster lower handlebar clamps (increased leverage not aligned with the axis of the clamp).

[900Rebuilder]

With regard to the handlebar risers and from a position of no actual knowledge I would suggest that:
1 916 forks are probably shorter than Monster forks so there would be little necessity to make the legs protrude through the top yoke,
2. given 1 above it should be possible to use the standard handlebar clamps un-extended with a set of bars that has an upward crank (not ape-hangers) and still miss the tops of the preload adjusters on the 916 fork caps,
3. personally I would be against using extender blocks above the set of standard Monster handle bar clamps both aesthetically and because the clamp bolts themselves will probably have to be made longer and they would be under more stress at the junction of the Monster top yoke and the original Monster lower handlebar clamps (increased leverage not aligned with the axis of the clamp).

1. Cant remember as sold the originals so long ago that I cant compare them, I was always under the impression (probably incorrectly) that the 916 forks were longer

2. The black adapters shown (just set up in the pics as an example) will bolt straight onto the yoke but would be so low that they would 100% clash

3. Me too - want to find a safe / good looking option

[Darren69]

IIRC Dukedesmo has an M900 with 916 forks.

[Dukedesmo]

IIRC Dukedesmo has an M900 with 916 forks.

Indeed I do and it's not the length of the forks that matters (though I'm not sure if they're longer or shorter as I never had the original forks?), rather the fact that the adjusters stick out the top and interfere with the bars.

I fitted 30mm risers and flat bars (higher bars alone don't help as the bend is further out than the fork tops) and the adjuster screws are still very close to the bars though you can (just) still get a screwdriver on to adjust them.

Could fit higher risers but I like the height as it is and it turns out about the same as standard bars/no risers.

Fat bars will be a problem though as the bolt spacing required won't line up with the yoke so would require risers with adapters or engineering.

916 forks in Monster yoke;

https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/data/photos/l/5/5510-1427652059-ee82e1fed2fa94de4e8771ffb93e6d67.jpg

Flat bars/30mm risers over 916 forks;

https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/data/photos/l/4/4557-1405626385-0eac801fafcb3e30d569a4c0ee86e5e8.jpg

[Luddite]

Need some angled risers to fit my stock bored top yoke and to clear the 916 forks I'm using whilst also allowing fat bars to be fitted - need to see where I can purchase or commission some so please feel free to make some suggestions? :)

Both Oberon and Rizoma do angled or offset risers, which may allow your bars to clear the fork tops. The Rizomas have a 5mm offset while the Oberons are 20⁰/19mm.

https://i.postimg.cc/Y9yRS2Wg/Handlebar-Risers-Angled-Silver-Standard.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/J0DqHwNF/rizoma-az402b-handlebar-riser-kit-42mm-height.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/YCfJCgqW/Screenshot-20230502-150103-2.png (https://postimages.org/)

[900Rebuilder]

The Rizoma's will never fit but I'll check out the Oberon ones :)

[Mr Gazza]

The standard alloy fork tubes on Monsters are 450mm long. (SS models are 500.)
No idea what 916 ones are, Maybe DD could measure?

The adjustable ones are standard on the Sie. They project 20mm above the top yoke. That's the fork leg not the including the adjusters.
The Sie models have longer risers as standard to clear all the gubbins, these will be available as a spare part I would imagine. Mine has a one piece top clamp, I imagine that gives the assembly a bit more rigidity. The clamping bolts are correspondingly longer.

There's probably no reason why you couldn't just double up the standard risers, using the appropriate bolts, but you would have half a handlebar hole showing.

[Mark64]

Lovin your music collection

[Dukedesmo]

The standard alloy fork tubes on Monsters are 450mm long. (SS models are 500.)
No idea what 916 ones are, Maybe DD could measure?



The alloy tube (from the dust seal to where the red adjuster fits to) measures 480mm, plus the actual adjuster mechanism measures (approx.) between 30 and 40mm, depending on the amount of preload.

Mine have 50mm protruding above the yoke but this could be more or less, depending on preload and ride height (how far the forks are into the yoke).

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks DD.
That might go a little way to identifying a set of forks that Nasher found in Mark's stash, which I bought and subsequently sold back to Nasher. They were 485mm and the best guess was that they were from 748.

Looks like you have about 20mm of tube above the yoke in the photo?

[900Rebuilder]

Looks like I'm definitely going to need angled back and the Oberon ones are only available with a single mounting bolt from underneath which I feel may weaken the yokes too greatly.

DD how tall are your risers? They must be fairly tall if you have flat bars fitted

Music collection - handy for those long nights tinkering and keeps me away from YouTube etc!

[Dukedesmo]

Looks like you have about 20mm of tube above the yoke in the photo?

In that pic maybe but that was pre-build. Probably around 10-15 now as I raised it a little, along with the rear.

[Dukedesmo]

DD how tall are your risers? They must be fairly tall if you have flat bars fitted


30mm, on top of the OEM parts.

[900Rebuilder]

30mm, on top of the OEM parts.

Many thanks!

[Dukedesmo]

Given it's an i.e. engine and you're using carbs so a hybrid of sorts, what ignition setup are you planning to fit?

[900Rebuilder]

No idea at present as have both sets - suggestions?

[Dukedesmo]

No idea at present as have both sets - suggestions?

Are you planning any tuning? if so I'd recommend an Ignitech module, in fact even if you're not I'd recommend it.

Cheaper than the OEM Kokusan and programmable advance curves, can be linked with a TPS on the carbs for more accurate control and can also operate things like a shift light, rev limiter etc.

https://www.ignitech.cz/en/

They make a version for the carb engined, twin pickups not sure what they have for an i.e. type (single?) pickup?

[900Rebuilder]

Thanks - I'll check it out. I've got all the ignition system from both of the engines along with the ignitors etc.

I've got the California coil kit so do you think that the ignition system mentioned would also work with this?

[Dukedesmo]

Thanks - I'll check it out. I've got all the ignition system from both of the engines along with the ignitors etc.

I've got the California coil kit so do you think that the ignition system mentioned would also work with this?

Ignitech just replaces the 2 Kokusan igniters, plugs into the existing wiring from the pickups and powers the coils in the same way.

It's really simple but you can change the advance by RPM, by throttle position etc. so can get a smoother map, the OEM setup has a fixed advance.

The reason I asked about tuning is that if you increase the compression ratio you will likely need to change ignition timing. You can do that with the OEM setup by moving the pickups but to do that is a PITA as you need to remove the RH casing, with the Ignitech you can alter it from your laptop.

If you want to see one fitted/in action, I'm not far away from you and can show you it running and programming etc.

[900Rebuilder]

Sounds good to me as I do have the original motor (in bits) and a JE bb kit ready for that one day so future proofing now is sensible.

Do you want to PM me some days / times that you are available? I work mon-fri days :)

[Dukedesmo]

Have PM'd you.

[900Rebuilder]

If its the correct part I've found the ignition unit for 200 Euro's and it says its plug n play - need HM government to hurry up with the NHS pay rise and one-off Ducati build payment now ;)

[900Rebuilder]

Popped over to see DukeDesmo for a quick 3 hour chat on Monday which has given me plenty to think about since checking out his lovely 900 and other bikes.

Going to have a serious think about some ignition mods and going over to a later swingarm versus my mk1 888 type.....

[900Rebuilder]

Dragging everything out to take to powder coaters next weekend (hopefully). Forgot how many parts there were to be done;

https://i.postimg.cc/fbxkhYPt/Monster-parts.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Y4Ct6LMM)

[Mr Gazza]

I spy a centre stand there.
Have you had it fitted yet? I ask because it's quite likely to need a bit of coaxing.
The clearance between the brace and the back tyre can be very tight and not allow full wheel adjustment, say with a new chain. Also the assistor arm can clash with the left hand silencer.
I also spy an alloy side stand bracket. Those don't sit very well with a centre stand, as they want to both use the same bolt hole. You can fit both with bespoke spacers under the forward end of the side stand bracket, and the middle hole on the centre stand bracket, then you will need a longer thread on the shoulder bolts to reach far enough into the M10 threaded holes.
Best to try and source a later (post 1999) stand with a forged steel bracket and leg.
Fitted to all 2000 on "old shape" Monsters and ST2/4.
Those don't share a bolt hole and you'll only need a spacer to match the centre stand bracket thickness under the front footrest hanger shoulder bolt.

You've got an awful lot of masking to do in a week! Mating surfaces and threads, quite a few of the parts in that picture that I would definitely not powder coat.

[Darren69]

The oil cooler would probably be better with just a spray over with vht paint. Discs will be a mare too as they are supposed to float on the carriers.

[900Rebuilder]

Thanks for the comments on the stand as I suspected that there may be issues - I may just run the side stand initially and fit the centre stand at my leisure later on.

The stand I have is very loose on the bracket so I assume that I'm probably missing some kind of brass bush or similar.

Also I don't think that the front discs will be getting done but I may just have them blasted so that I can then paint them myself at home.

I did think about the oil cooler so might just take it along with me to get some feedback as the chap doing it works from home so each item can / will be discussed with him in turn.

Looking at gloss black for frame and swingarm with all the smaller bits being satin black :)

[Mr Gazza]

No bushes on the centre stand, but they are all rather loose and sloppy until you get both brackets bolted up properly. Best to have exhaust out of the way when fitting it too, or at least slack and loose so you can jiggle it a bit.

[adie851]

What colour are you doing the bodywork......is it a complete custom build or or more original....? I've done two 900 monsters many years ago..one a very early one which I restored to its original red colour...the other one I did was a customized yellow ...blinged with loads of carbon parts...there's probably pictures of both bikes somwhere on this website....I personally like the original gold frame colour...but it's personal choice..your call..enjoy the build.....

[slob]

The oil cooler would probably be better with just a spray over with vht paint. Discs will be a mare too as they are supposed to float on the carriers.

FWIW Frost Resoration do a special radiator paint, that’s ‘low clogging’ for ensuring an even coat between the fins.

[900Rebuilder]

What colour are you doing the bodywork......is it a complete custom build or or more original....? I've done two 900 monsters many years ago..one a very early one which I restored to its original red colour...the other one I did was a customized yellow ...blinged with loads of carbon parts...there's probably pictures of both bikes somwhere on this website....I personally like the original gold frame colour...but it's personal choice..your call..enjoy the build.....

Black with added black.

Body kit black with candy red dropped in and wheels to match red (thinking dark cherry red).

Bike is a bitsa so no stock rebuild here and whilst they look nice in red / gold I'd only look at that if I had another one with matching numbers :)

[900Rebuilder]

No bushes on the centre stand, but they are all rather loose and sloppy until you get both brackets bolted up properly. Best to have exhaust out of the way when fitting it too, or at least slack and loose so you can jiggle it a bit.

Wow! I can see daylight between the stand and the bracket so its either very worn or missing something. I suppose there is the possibility that the stand and bracket aren't a pair :look:

[Mr Gazza]

I'll send you some photos of mine when I get off my 750SS in a few days time.
In the meantime I wouldn't waste any powder coat on it, looks like you'll be working on it?

[900Rebuilder]

I'll send you some photos of mine when I get off my 750SS in a few days time.
In the meantime I wouldn't waste any powder coat on it, looks like you'll be working on it?

I'm taking the bits over to get the full quote first ;)

[900Rebuilder]

Here is the offending side stand - nothing looks worn but there is a massive gap between the 2 components;

https://i.postimg.cc/PxLP64HS/Stand.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bDhyr1sn)

Also the fuel cap might be useable especially as its a Cagiva era one but the seal is perished - can these be replaced or is it junk at this stage?

https://i.postimg.cc/509mjDw6/Cap1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/cKj3b9kS)

https://i.postimg.cc/44D8sf83/Cap2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/NLx8xcvh)

[Dukedesmo]

Rubber seal should be replaceable though not sure if available or if you might need to make a new one?

I dismantled filler cap assembly as I had ignition/fuel cap/seat lock all with different keys but managed to swap/fiddle with the innards so that they all work on the one ignition key and, though it was some years back I'm sure the rubber is replaceable.

If you do need to make one, ensure you get the correct rubber, the old seal on my Guzzi tank was worn out/leaking so I made a new one from a sheet of so-called 'fuel resistant' material but the first time I stopped for petrol it had turned to snot from the fumes.

Bought some Viton (IIRC) and it's been fine for the last few years.

[350TSS]

re the side stand - measure the post and then measure the hole in the stand itself and then go to Simply Bearings and see if they have a self lubricating bronze bush that fits the ID of the stand itself. The bush needs to be an interference fit into the stand but if you cannot get a bush that fits snugly then Loctite bearing fit would take up the slack.
As for fitting over the post you could buy the correct size drill and simply drill the bush to fit . The bearing should be less than £10 and a correct size drill half decent quality about £15

[Mr Gazza]

Here is the offending side stand - ]

Sorry I thought you were talking about a sloppy centre stand.
Best thing you can do with it is swap it for the later forged steel type, which is less suicidal and will fit with your centre stand if you ever decide to use it.

Paint colour for the filler cap is BMW Solid Gold 859.
I've bought little sheets of various thickness Viton and successfully made rings with a compass cutter. (Remember to cut the outer diameter first. :dunce:)
I bought a very cheap compass cutter from a model shop years ago and it's been priceless, well worth investing in a good one though.

[900Rebuilder]

Sorry I thought you were talking about a sloppy centre stand.
Best thing you can do with it is swap it for the later forged steel type, which is less suicidal and will fit with your centre stand if you ever decide to use it.

Paint colour for the filler cap is BMW Solid Gold 859.
I've bought little sheets of various thickness Viton and successfully made rings with a compass cutter. (Remember to cut the outer diameter first. :dunce:)
I bought a very cheap compass cutter from a model shop years ago and it's been priceless, well worth investing in a good one though.

Thanks for the tip regarding the cutter :)

Would you be kind enough to provide a link to a suitable stand? That way I can look to purchase the correct one :)

[900Rebuilder]

re the side stand - measure the post and then measure the hole in the stand itself and then go to Simply Bearings and see if they have a self lubricating bronze bush that fits the ID of the stand itself. The bush needs to be an interference fit into the stand but if you cannot get a bush that fits snugly then Loctite bearing fit would take up the slack.
As for fitting over the post you could buy the correct size drill and simply drill the bush to fit . The bearing should be less than £10 and a correct size drill half decent quality about £15

Thanks - makes me wish I had a little lathe at home ;)

[Mr Gazza]

Here's a picture of one i had from a 2001 M900ie I think. Mounted on my 750SS along with a centre stand, which shows you how they fit.

https://i.ibb.co/C0pqbDk/DSCF8923.jpg (https://ibb.co/LpDMxHL)

I sold that to Richardduke, but I'm not sure if he sold it on or still has it?

An ST2/4 one is the same if you can find one with a straight leg, most have a wild kink in them!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/254784872324?epid=12042623513&hash=item3b525c9f84:g:s9sAAOSwW0BfuEkM&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8LhH%2BolvWrnw6xs9iWLJWU%2BdQ 0m6vWXfM6zgvPD%2F3k2pXu6tOEEXOgzEtMgBJPGM1l3c2c1iB ciPWW3E4aJCzOI%2BHNWfg8UoJ242eYTs99nKEkYAYP%2BfCp0 1DCRPtrRzEoh%2BEoIIqXTbtul31EK1dNDx6O65UCXJYs818YZ XoC4ac%2FNpJbBFSMsmecs%2Bh3lPSJ7k4ciKLkOD5Uz8KcGMW uGRxZ1Mb7xN2wrEfz6U54Pd5yy%2BeEuTsSNpJeum%2Bfkhmng JpcdDk56bP%2BtcTgyIDgYPHMfcTqATs23TRJdVhlvV5Q9tXWM j6oZ6i0pzZ1mLCA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM-PypmoVi

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314252737793?hash=item492aec3d01:g:h2IAAOSwQQ1jh46 G&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8DmZxSH6nEvtX7Q2Wi0VyIo%2F1Gv jKnuxGwuskw4l7Aj02jHAn5fOjF%2FqQcHWMBSCWcIc4cnFtBz aIKSOpkTD6ipLUi6AOs7pG0o%2Fr7ZhZfF4hmpMsRfSMhzgklc bR1Pg6fAz2FWbQE0HqLT%2Fl1wlpZYOSSqyejk9Zs4M%2FLS8v PPraEYPXAFu1Z%2F6YoP661fQjTPX2MaoxVtNDfwFpB3XDzOFk M7mD0asKOP7vdj2fHK156%2FIIm7Vv6hD6jMUfdMbjQNLM2PX4 ouL7bfFK7Ar4M%2FCGs4D%2Fnztdjx0f1XMAR%2B2lfZ01rB5X 5qUoe11EUPl4w%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Tf7JqFYg

Those seem stupidly pricey, but you can hunt around now you know what you're looking for.

Also found these, which is handy, as I couldn't track them down before.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234975279246

[900Rebuilder]

Many thanks! I almost bought the stand in Italy but spotted a warning about import taxes on their advert so will have a look around closer to home first.

When I googled the part number it comes up as a conversion part - is this because its needed to fit the centre stand kit do you think?

[Mr Gazza]

No, it's standard fitment to Monsters and probably SS after 1999 and usually incorporates a rotary switch which works an ignition interlock to stop you riding off with the stand down.

I think the stand was redesigned for the ST2/4 when they were introduced, as the centre stand was standard on those. I imagine Ducati simply standardised the new design across the range for simplicity. It also fits in with the ie models coming along and so modernising with an interlock switch.

The stand bracket seems to have carried through everything right up to the M1200, but used with different legs.

I'm quite alarmed at the prices of them. Try messaging Richardduke as he definitely had one on offer, although I've got a feeling it was snapped up.

[900Rebuilder]

Thanks :) my friend has an ST2 so I'll pinch that when he's not looking...

[900Rebuilder]

Bought the stand from Italy in the end and am awaiting its arrival in the post.

[900Rebuilder]

Ended up being cheaper to buy a brand new stand from Italy for less than it was to get a used one in the UK

https://i.postimg.cc/bJWdgBLb/New-stand.jpg (https://postimg.cc/PpbtrKgr)

Also did a trial fit with the frame on the engine which went straight on even though I was expecting a difference in diameter between the frame mounts and the engine mounts

https://i.postimg.cc/tTTV2Pb0/Side-picture.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bG7JvZdL)

[900Rebuilder]

Cleaned the brake callipers up as best as I could but cant get them any better than shown despite multiple efforts with various cleaners. I'll have to settle for the dirty look and pretend they are magnesium ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/2yWjKdMX/Brembo-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/H8pCJMpQ)

Also need to find a source for the pad pins as there seems to be a number used across the years by Brembo / Ducati etc. I've found some SS ones on ebay but they dont come with the little barrel shaped spring holder and also have an extra part on the end with an R clip which mine dont

https://i.postimg.cc/8PyVHZpm/Brembo-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ppn7VYnm)

[RichardDDuke]

Am in a similar situation, and looking for Brembo parts for 900ss brakes front and back.
So please post details if you find anything....
TIA

[Darren69]

The R clips were added later as the pins were prone to back out. IIRC when I did my 900SS the barrel clips were reusable and I swapped them to the new stainless pins.

[Darren69]

These are for the old 40mm type

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234452948485?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=LqWl5J1CRdK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=xhXfc3IYTgy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[900Rebuilder]

Thanks Darren - I had seen them but was unsure due to the missing parts and the additional piece on the ends. Yet to find an SS alternative for the rear though

[RichardDDuke]

All,
Just found this site which does the parts we're looking for as well.

https://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/parts/brakes/brembo-brake-calipers/brembo-front-brake-calipers.htm

Anybody used them before ?

[Flip]

All,
Just found this site which does the parts we're looking for as well.

https://www.biketorqueracing.co.uk/parts/brakes/brembo-brake-calipers/brembo-front-brake-calipers.htm

Anybody used them before ?

Yep used Bike Torque Racing lots of times- when they started out late 90's early 00's they were just GSX-R specialists and after I bought the Monster they supplied my Nitron rear shock.

Looking at the stand photo- isn't that the type for the '99 on (ST type frame) Monsters, I didn't think they were interchangeable with the earlier (888 frame type)?

I know the stand on my '97 900 is aluminium not steel like that (later?) one.

https://i.postimg.cc/hjrnfbwX/Stand.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[900Rebuilder]

I bought the stand as suggested to allow the fitment of the centre stand kit that I have. The ST type stand fits to the engine fine and will hopefully provide the clearance for the other stand as mentioned.

Whilst looking through all my spares I actually managed to find a plastic bush that fits into the original stand and must act as a bearing removing the slop that I'd encountered.

I'm sure when I'm done I'll end up with a load of spares that I can add to my stash or sell on via here oe ebay etc :)

[adie851]

Looking good..are you doing the frame the original gold colour....seen the blue tank...is that gonna go on the bike...? Are you going 5-spoke marchesini's..wheels...I've done two M900 rebuilds in the past...one yellow custom and one red standard spec...enjoy the rebuild....good to see the progress...

cheers, adie851

[adie851]

I've used bike torque racing for brake spares..they're pretty good

[900Rebuilder]

Looking good..are you doing the frame the original gold colour....seen the blue tank...is that gonna go on the bike...? Are you going 5-spoke marchesini's..wheels...I've done two M900 rebuilds in the past...one yellow custom and one red standard spec...enjoy the rebuild....good to see the progress...

cheers, adie851

This is a resto-mod not a restoration because the bike came to me as an odd collection of parts and I prefer to make changes to make it how I would like it :o

Currently looking at black frame with satin black components (probably cerakote) and black bodywork with some candy red dropped into the paint. I will most likely have dark candy / cherry red wheels as well.

I would like the 5 spoke wheels but its easy in a project to constantly buy new, more trick parts and never actually get enough money together to complete the thing. This Monster has been in my garage for 10 years now!

Currently I'm going with the following spec from front to back;

916 forks re-valved by Maxton
Remote reservoir rear shock from Maxton
Sport classic front mudguard
Headlight lowered 25mm, no chrome and carbon back
Braided hoses
Brembo radial MC's with smoked pots
Fatbars
Mikuni TDMR 40mm faltslide carbs
Ignitec ignition for 900ie engine in carbed bike
MWR airbox lid air filter
CCW coil upgrade
Exact Fit starter cables
Alcantara seat
LED tail light
Original style smoked indicators
RoadRacing tail tidy (uncut)
Renthall sprockets
Oil cooler cover in SS
Hypermotard oil lines (both up one side)
Swingarm / spindles caps in grey alloy (German from memory)
Silmotor 45mm headers and 2/3 length oval carbon cans (SP Engineering)
Hoop extenders
Centre stand
Givi rack kit (not to be kept on bike) and tank bag

Things I'm looking for;

888 hugger
Floating rear brake
RoadRacing front brake scoops

Stuff to spend more cash on;

Paint
Powder coat
Cerakote
Plating
Fiddly parts

Something I'm considering;

Taking front discs apart and coating carriers and then rebuilding with new bobbins

[900Rebuilder]

Ignitech ignition system arrived today (well yesterday but collected this morning) having been ordered on Tuesday of the same week. Came via DHL with VAT to pay before delivery at normal UK rates.

What you get in the box

https://i.postimg.cc/sDYWJrWw/Box.jpg (https://postimg.cc/RN0qM2XH)

The main ignition unit and the connections for the bike which require connections to the coils / power etc and the one for the ie pulse coil

https://i.postimg.cc/BnHqC8bR/Ignition-unit.jpg (https://postimg.cc/xXjDf1KP)

The connection to the pc and pulse coil here

https://i.postimg.cc/MZfKGrxW/Connectors-close-up.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bd8jCgsM)laptop ka keyboard (https://keyboardtester.co/keyboard-tester)

Simply plug in as shown which is a direct fit

https://i.postimg.cc/d1yPJpCp/Direct-connection-pic.jpg (https://postimg.cc/HcdP2SB9)

There's even some additional pins for the units wiring loom so that you can enable additional features later such as a shift light for example

https://i.postimg.cc/qMQYH4Yg/Spare-pins-and-velcro.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LnYvzKmM)

[900Rebuilder]

Picked up my metal work from Derby Plating last night

https://i.postimg.cc/fTTqmfzt/Plating.jpg (https://postimg.cc/G9Vj1Ysd)

[900Rebuilder]

Been struggling to find some converters that fit the early risers for putting fat bars onto (into?) the M900 so gave up and had some made by a local engineering firm. Once I know how high I want them I'll probably get them milled lower at a later date (currently bracket +40mm). They are also doing my clutch casing for me as well ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/vH8C6fBr/Riser1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/3W6tsy2N)

https://i.postimg.cc/SRb2vmX4/Riser2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/MMtpc2b3)

https://i.postimg.cc/FssssfXq/Riser3.jpg (https://postimg.cc/w3Zdwjvc)

[Sirc]

Cleaned the brake callipers up as best as I could but cant get them any better than shown despite multiple efforts with various cleaners. I'll have to settle for the dirty look and pretend they are magnesium ;)

https://i.postimg.cc/2yWjKdMX/Brembo-1.jpg (https://postimg.cc/H8pCJMpQ)

Also need to find a source for the pad pins as there seems to be a number used across the years by Brembo / Ducati etc. I've found some SS ones on ebay but they dont come with the little barrel shaped spring holder and also have an extra part on the end with an R clip which mine dont

https://i.postimg.cc/8PyVHZpm/Brembo-2.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ppn7VYnm)
Unless your calipers are somehow different to the many i've owned and lightly refurbished, i think the "grubby" grime appearance can be removed with a diluted solvent. You can safely use GT85 for this, as the propellant that evaporates in seconds is perfect for this, although it's an expensive way to do it. This and a clean toothbrush or nailbrush and some clean cotton cloth, the latter used quickly after after each spray, works wonders.
I can see some more ingrained discolouration that probably won't be improved, but this looks to be a minority.

[900Rebuilder]

Thanks Sirc - I'll give it a go :)

[Dukedesmo]

Been struggling to find some converters that fit the early risers for putting fat bars onto (into?) the M900 so gave up and had some made by a local engineering firm. Once I know how high I want them I'll probably get them milled lower at a later date (currently bracket +40mm). They are also doing my clutch casing for me as well ;)



IIRC you're using 916 Showa forks as am I? if so with regards to the height, the forks protrude around 50mm, depending on how high you set them in the yoke (mine are around 48mm with 2 'rings' showing) but you obviously want some room to get to the adjusters without having to remove the bars.

I've got 30mm risers on top of the original Monster riser/bracket and that sits the centre of the riser bracket/bar around 75mm from the yoke which is about as close as you can go if you still want to adjust the forks (I've got around 8mm gap between bar and screw top).

As fat bars are a little thicker I'd say bracket +40mm sounds about right to me.

[900Rebuilder]

IIRC you're using 916 Showa forks as am I? if so with regards to the height, the forks protrude around 50mm, depending on how high you set them in the yoke (mine are around 48mm with 2 'rings' showing) but you obviously want some room to get to the adjusters without having to remove the bars.

I've got 30mm risers on top of the original Monster riser/bracket and that sits the centre of the riser bracket/bar around 75mm from the yoke which is about as close as you can go if you still want to adjust the forks (I've got around 8mm gap between bar and screw top).

As fat bars are a little thicker I'd say bracket +40mm sounds about right to me.

Yes I've got early 916 fork legs for this bike coupled with Renthal Street-Low fat bars. If they are too low I'll get some spacers made that are the same dimensions as the new risers to be able to fine tune things - we shall see.... ;)

[Dukedesmo]

Yes I've got early 916 fork legs for this bike coupled with Renthal Street-Low fat bars. If they are too low I'll get some spacers made that are the same dimensions as the new risers to be able to fine tune things - we shall see.... ;)

Having properly re-read your post, if I've understood it correctly then it will almost certainly be too low.

Unless your forks are somehow different to the 2 sets of 916 forks I've got? then there is around 40mm of 'gubbins' protruding from the fork top so unless you fit them with the tops flush to the yoke (which would be too high a ride height) then the bars will foul the fork tops.

I'd say you'll need another 30 - 40mm height, mine has 30mm risers on top of the OEM 40mm? Monster risers and there is sufficient (but not much) clearance.

Assuming the 40mm is to bar centre? then with fat bars being fatter then the lower edge of the bar will sit closer to the fork top than 'thin' bars meaning, all else being equal, you'll have a little less clearance.

You could use a suitable bar riser though a custom spacer underneath would look 'cleaner'.

[900Rebuilder]

The 40mm is to the bottom of the add-on adapter so in truth its around 50mm, but if like you say its still too low I'll get some spacers machined to match coupled with longer bolts etc.

This is why I'm building now but expecting to ride next year ;)

[Mr Gazza]

My M900Sie has the "916" forks as standard and is fitted with higher risers as standard to raise the bars above the fork top adjusters.
It does this with the forks the standard 20mm above the yoke. (to the top of the fork top nut flange.)
Just before my last ride, I dropped the forks by 10 mm and I'm amazed at how nicely it handles now after riding it at the "standard" setting for 10 years.
The turn in is now much more confidence inspiring and its steady throughout all lean angles, holding a line beautifully and yet still willing to flick round manhole covers just like before. I even reduced my chicken strips a little more. :mand:

It just felt so wobbly after riding the Commando and Zero. It now feels much safer and I'm holding more corner speed too.
Only slight drawback is a bit more side stand lean, but that's fixable and I'm planning on fitting a centre stand anyway.

[Nasher]

Just as an aside, in case it's any use.
The Top yoke and various adaptors I show in post #28 of this thread could be persuaded out of my grubby mits with a decent offer:
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=60050&page=2

Apologies, I can't access Postimage or similar through our work firewall.

[Dukedesmo]

Just as an aside, in case it's any use.
The Top yoke and various adaptors I show in post #28 of this thread could be persuaded out of my grubby mits with a decent offer:
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=60050&page=2

Apologies, I can't access Postimage or similar through our work firewall.

The ABM yoke shown is interesting as, aside from the slanted riser it has the riser mounts offset to the forks meaning you wouldn't need so much height to clear the fork tops and adjustment would be easier.

If I hadn't already got mine sorted and happy with the setup I'd be interested, assuming they fit old-school Monster.

[Mr Gazza]

Unfortunately Nasher's lovely ABM yoke has 30mm offset if it fits a 1000SSie.
Ben's yokes are 25mm offset.

https://i.postimg.cc/wT50zRST/PB300002.jpg (https://postimg.cc/LnXzB59r)

https://i.postimg.cc/SxyVxNhL/PB300003.jpg (https://postimg.cc/2VKnHY33)

https://i.postimg.cc/8zt4JQp2/PB300004.jpg (https://postimg.cc/684ngPGc)

[Dukedesmo]

Yes, I should have realised that is how it can be more 'offset' than that of a Monster.

[pooh]

Are they stainless bolts in the callipers? Don’t think it’s a good idea I only use titanium on brakes due to the heat cycling issue.

Pooh

[900Rebuilder]

Can you please explain? I dont have SS on the mounts but thought / assumed these would be ok...

[Nasher]

Unfortunately Nasher's lovely ABM yoke has 30mm offset if it fits a 1000SSie.
Ben's yokes are 25mm offset.


Ah, yes, thanks Mr G.

Getting my mucking offsets fuddled again.

[Dukedesmo]

Can't see why stainless bolts should be a problem?

They may not be as high tensile as the originals but, at the size they are I reckon they're well over any strength requirement and I can't imagine the temperature causing any issues?

I've certainly used them without any bother.

[900Rebuilder]

Can't see why stainless bolts should be a problem?

They may not be as high tensile as the originals but, at the size they are I reckon they're well over any strength requirement and I can't imagine the temperature causing any issues?

I've certainly used them without any bother.

That was kinda my thinking too but I never want to appear arrogant so thought I'd check out what the reasoning was behind the caution

[Mr Gazza]

Can you please explain? I don't have SS on the mounts but thought / assumed these would be ok...

What you have is a standard early Monster yoke with 25mm offset.
The offset is the distance between a line drawn through the centres of the fork leg holes and the centre of the stem hole.
In other words the fork legs will be 25mm in front of the steering stem (centres).

The later SS has 30mm offset so can't be used with early Monster bottom yokes and indeed shouldn't even be used as a pair as the different offset will upset the geometry.

Later Monsters were changed to 30mm offset with the introduction of the "ST" frame, whereupon they became interchangeable with SS yokes.

I think I'm right in saying the early SS had 30mm offset too?

No problem with stainless caliper halves bolts, but the kits usually have standard cap heads instead of the original low heads. Only trouble with stainless low heads is the increased likelihood of chewing the Allen socket out getting it up to the required torque.
I had this problem with button head stainless disc bolts which had insufficient socket depth and would not take the correct torque. Best cure is to use steel or Titanium bolts.

I always use Ti these days anyway, especially on un-sprung parts.

RSR Moto are purveyors of fine Titanium bolts and also carbon fibre parts.
They will be advertising on here in 2024.

[Bitza]

I use ss yolks on my (94 framed) heap but also have clip ons and rearsets. I think Ducati went for the 25mm off set due to the upright sitting position on a Monster, as 851s (with the same frame) used 30mm offset.
Re stainless fixing, beware some are rubbish and rounding out socket heads can be an issue, also had bad experiences when used in Ali components suffering I think from electrolytic corrosion. Ti bolts (grade 5) are the job, but be warned Ti is addictive.

[900Rebuilder]

I'm wondering if I confused you with my SS abbreviation for stainless steel...

[Bitza]

When I said ss yolks, I meant taken off a 900ss.

[900Rebuilder]

When I said ss yolks, I meant taken off a 900ss.

Guessed as much :)

[Mark64]

RSR Moto are purveyors of fine Titanium bolts and also carbon fibre parts.
They will be advertising on here in 2024.

Great news about RSR Moto, I can vouch for the quality of their products and my (ex) bike is on their 'hall of fame' ;-)

[900Rebuilder]

Great news about RSR Moto, I can vouch for the quality of their products and my (ex) bike is on their 'hall of fame' ;-)

I've just taken stock of some of their titanium front disc bolts which are great quality but I couldn't find any listed for the rear disc of the M900. They also didn't come with any washers so I'll have to check to see if they are required or not.

[Dukedesmo]

I've just taken stock of some of their titanium front disc bolts which are great quality but I couldn't find any listed for the rear disc of the M900. They also didn't come with any washers so I'll have to check to see if they are required or not.

No washers required, as for the rear; M8 x 20 IIRC but I swapped mine for plated cap heads from 916 (M8 x 14) as they are a nice low profile and steel (need to be magnetic) due to using a speed sensor on them for the Translogic dash.

[Dukedesmo]

To add, these should be good; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112686651967?hash=item1a3ca5da3f:g:NuYAAOSwiIxaL6k L&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAKMHKigeXCJpoZ0ZC4mj0xpd%2FRr hcRFO0FsSJpfuRHdbDMsS%2BpCuPttkOdZiQUefKetMqJrjuC4 2oure1%2FU7mOK5ameq3Tsg3Dzk1e1c8Ulc%2BfyEgoOftLZ1u XScYkeGk3SJMlqP8JnqcoiTX5qka%2BBkrt0vBA9SDNFsJe8B% 2BafPrxxCB5pxs9G8OvWmeV7Zmo%2F0Gg8ApKNH1Mp7E2D3pDB oNmY3MVt5GHiiJswWSjv8G8pI%2BES67hCNys9f%2BiXAxJPw3 i2Rm%2BzFSZT1GjXqf1Q7DbBBeqyL9v6sjp2108djyIRyUIT1g OgAVmKqiDL1NCPXcT2dVh3e8sa%2Bb3co9jQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABF BM2pK5v8Bi

M8 x 20 but ignore that it says for 748/916 etc. as they only use 4 bolts and are shorter as the hub/carrier (not the wheel) they fit into is not very thick.

[Mr Gazza]

I recently bought a set myself. 12 for the front and 6 for the back.
He does do a rear set and a front set as it happens. All the same size on mine, M8 x 20.
I like that they are the same pattern head as originals but sparklier. Flanged cap heads.

I was so impressed with what a nice company it is to deal with that we got into a conversation and they agreed to put an ad on our forum banner.

[Dukedesmo]

RSR Moto are purveyors of fine Titanium bolts and also carbon fibre parts.
They will be advertising on here in 2024.

Club discount...? :thumbsup:

[900Rebuilder]

To add, these should be good; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/112686651967?hash=item1a3ca5da3f:g:NuYAAOSwiIxaL6k L&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAABAKMHKigeXCJpoZ0ZC4mj0xpd%2FRr hcRFO0FsSJpfuRHdbDMsS%2BpCuPttkOdZiQUefKetMqJrjuC4 2oure1%2FU7mOK5ameq3Tsg3Dzk1e1c8Ulc%2BfyEgoOftLZ1u XScYkeGk3SJMlqP8JnqcoiTX5qka%2BBkrt0vBA9SDNFsJe8B% 2BafPrxxCB5pxs9G8OvWmeV7Zmo%2F0Gg8ApKNH1Mp7E2D3pDB oNmY3MVt5GHiiJswWSjv8G8pI%2BES67hCNys9f%2BiXAxJPw3 i2Rm%2BzFSZT1GjXqf1Q7DbBBeqyL9v6sjp2108djyIRyUIT1g OgAVmKqiDL1NCPXcT2dVh3e8sa%2Bb3co9jQ%3D%7Ctkp%3ABF BM2pK5v8Bi

M8 x 20 but ignore that it says for 748/916 etc. as they only use 4 bolts and are shorter as the hub/carrier (not the wheel) they fit into is not very thick.

Many thanks - I'll check them out