S4 idle issue

[Terryphukwit]

Hi, new on here but hoping your experience with these fine beasts will help me solve this problem. Bought the bike in Jan, has since had a full service including clearances and belts, this problem has always been there and nothing so far done has helped or made it worse. Run from cold is fine, starts on the button every time, once warm again no real problem but run into traffic and need to slow the temp rises into the 80s and I start loosing a cylinder around idle, I can keep it running by lifting the idle but not great and quite often it stalls. Now here's the thing, give it a few seconds and restart and it's as if nothing was wrong, idles fine but not for long and it starts dropping a cylinder again. If I run from cold without riding it warms right through to the fans come on at 104 without an issue at all.
Please let me know your thoughts, the hot weather has made it worse so need to get it fixed..Thanks.. Marc..

[slob]

S4 has stick coils (in the plug caps), the front one particularly is prone to issues due to its location directly in the path of debris/water from the front wheel. if you swap the coils can you make the problem switch cylinders.
CBR600RR uses the same Denso coils, that are considerably cheaper to buy than Ducati ones.

https://i.postimg.cc/dV2smLJZ/coil-stick.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/FRxCPhn5/spark.jpg

Also is your battery healthy? Your ECU won't like low voltage supply, which you might see under the conditions you describe, although I'd expect you'd see starting problems too.

[alan s4]

It took me about 5 years to sort out my S4 Gremlins!

Is your tacho behaving itself? Does it jump around at all?

1st job I would suggest is to change the reg/rect to a MOSFET - lots of info on here - 5 minute job if you use the Triumph leads.

[Darren69]

+1 for the coil stick. That was the issue with mine but it was the rear one and did not appear to suffer any visible corrosion issues, it would just stop working when it got to a certain temp. When it cooled down it worked again. A new one from Ducati was iirc around £150 but as Rob says they are a Nippon Denso part fitted to many jap sportbikes of that era.

[jerry]

TPS not PERFECTLY adusted can also make idle and slow speed running bad or cause stalling

[Terryphukwit]

Thanks for the input guys, iv ordered a coil pack, as you say they fit other bikes so a Kawasaki 600 it is.
Also not sure if relevant or not, when I first turn on the ignition I get a message in the speedo, "NA Int" I have no idea what this is??

[Darkness]

Thanks for the input guys, iv ordered a coil pack, as you say they fit other bikes so a Kawasaki 600 it is.
Also not sure if relevant or not, when I first turn on the ignition I get a message in the speedo, "NA Int" I have no idea what this is??

The message is ‘MA Int’ and means the bike thinks it needs a service (Maintenance).

To get rid of it, press and hold the left button. Turn the bike on. Keep button pressed while the speedo/tach needles go up/down, and then turn the bike off. Now let go of the button. Now you should be all set.

[Terryphukwit]

The message is ‘MA Int’ and means the bike thinks it needs a service (Maintenance).

To get rid of it, press and hold the left button. Turn the bike on. Keep button pressed while the speedo/tach needles go up/down, and then turn the bike off. Now let go of the button. Now you should be all set.

Genius, thanks

[Terryphukwit]

TPS not PERFECTLY adusted can also make idle and slow speed running bad or cause stalling

Hi Jerry
New coil pack did not fix it so I'm now looking at the TPS, I'm cool with the adjustment of it and have read through another thread but there were no readings given, would you know what output voltage it should be set at I assume closed and fully open.
Marc..

[Darren69]

150mV fully closed. The formula is Voltage (mV) = 150 + degrees X 105. i don't know how easy it would be to get a reading, but you can use diagnostic software to get the angle readings

[Luddite]

Useful info.

NjHnrjVaBsU

http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati4vthrottleb.html

[Terryphukwit]

Thanks, had a look on my bike today and the original locking paint is still in tact, 18 years and not yet adjusted, I don have the proper kit but do have a multimeter so will be probing around in the morning, I am assuming the 3 x wires are live feed, ground and the output, reading to be take between ground and output.

https://i.postimg.cc/8zRNYDsN/IMG-1624.jpg (https://postimg.cc/ZW5G9GrM)

https://i.postimg.cc/gc4xjVK3/IMG-1623.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qghJZCS7)

[Luddite]

I am assuming the 3 x wires are live feed, ground and the output, reading to be take between ground and output.

From Brad's website...
"Connect to the TPS by whichever method you are using to measure the TPS output voltage – back probing wires, Mathesis, DDS, etc. You need to go into the outer two wires if back probing."

[Terryphukwit]

From Brad's website...
"Connect to the TPS by whichever method you are using to measure the TPS output voltage – back probing wires, Mathesis, DDS, etc. You need to go into the outer two wires if back probing."

Thanks for this...

[Terryphukwit]

Morning gents, had a look at this this morning, early as I have work today, looks like the readings are ok, with everything disconnected so th butterfly snaps home fully I'm getting 153mv and connect everything back up 447. The 447 is what it was set to before I wound the throttle stop out to take the fully closed reading, the guy in the video is saying it should be lower, 350 but ultimately sets to 450 to get the degrees correct. This is the bit that looses me, surely this is set to whatever the bike idles correctly at or am I missing something.

https://i.postimg.cc/JzxjdBkR/IMG-1625.jpg (https://postimg.cc/PCLLCJy7)

https://i.postimg.cc/JzxjdBkR/IMG-1625.jpg (https://postimg.cc/PCLLCJy7)

[Darren69]

If you look back at the formula I posted each degree of the butterfly increases by 105mV and I think it is being set to around 2.6 degrees, which is 423mV so it's in the ballpark.

[Luddite]

If you read through Brad's instructions on his webpage it shows that the recommended setting for the S4 is 339mV at 1.8⁰ with final tickover determined usings the air bleeds.

[Darren69]

Remember also that this is a non-linear TPS so the linear part is just up to 30deg for the 105mV formula.

[Terryphukwit]

If you read through Brad's instructions on his webpage it shows that the recommended setting for the S4 is 339mV at 1.8⁰ with final tickover determined usings the air bleeds.

That now makes sense.. Thanks. .

[Darren69]

Remember on those the TPS is Non-linear so the rule only works up to 30 deg IIRC.

[Terryphukwit]

Hi and thanks for all your help on this so far, I am hoping you guys are the patient type as we still have a way to go.
With confidence that the tps is pretty close I started reassembling the linkage and noticed the butterfly on the vertical cylinder was open further than the horizontal, I don't have vacumn guages so set the front using a wire guage and then set the rear to that, this was nearly a full turn on the linkage. then reset the idle position back to 400mv so spliting the difference between what it should be and what it was..strangely this lifted the idle slightly, I thought it would drop?, I set both air screws at 1 X turn out and headed out for a test ride with a long flat screwdriver in my jacket.
I would say this was smoother running at least at first, then got stuck in traffic and as usual it got bored with idling, instead of appearing to loose a cylinder as it did before it cut out completely, I think the vertical cylinder with the butterfly open was keeping it running before
and making it sound like it was missing on one cylinder. Spent some time trying to improve things with the air screws but no good, it stalls, you restart, it runs nicely for a short while then gets bored, starts running flat and uneven and stalls..
Not sure where to go from here, strange it runs ok after the restart, as if it resets but I am not turning off the ignition and not leaving it any time to cool.
I am also looking for a diagnostics tool if a cost affective one exists, I am wondering if the temp sensor that sends reading to the ecu is the same as for the guage and fans, I have seen this cause chaos before, worth a check.
Also not sure on my ECU, I have a feeling this is for termignoni pipes, I have Arrow with standard 2/1/2 headers, again could be an issue..

Again thanks for all your feedback, most appreciated.

https://i.postimg.cc/YSRymhQC/IMG-1631.jpg (https://postimg.cc/VSSFxs7x)

https://i.postimg.cc/YqcK7L35/IMG-1632.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Cd46H197)

[Darren69]

The temp sensor on the front cylinder is for the display only. The one on the rear cylinder is for the ECU. I'm not sure what those codes on the ECU mean, they are not Ducati ones and appear to have been stuck over the Ducati ones. Probably means it has been remapped at some time, maybe someone will recognise them or if you Google them?

[jerry]

TPS has to be set absolutely perfect on S4 at 152mv or it will stall easy and run crap at low speed also battery and charging system must be in good order

[Darren69]

I agree, but I think you can pretty much rule out the TPS now and look elsewhere since the issue appears to be temperature related. Maybe ECU or something in the ignition still?

[Terryphukwit]

I'm having another look this afternoon, I'm finding the ECU part numbers coming up for US models, my bike is a Japanese import so maybe this is why, I'm going to refit the standard exhaust as I got these with the bike, check all wiring on the engine and ECU, I would like to rule out the temp sensor that feeds back to the ECU if there is a way I can do this with a meter?? Otherwise I have found some ECUs on Ebay being sold in Italy by a legit looking seller, they are for bikes fitted with race cans as the only mod or for full race exhaust and open filter, they are also for bikes with kmh speedo which works, could go for one of these..

[Mr Gazza]

I think if you have reached an impasse with what you know and can test yourself, I would roll it into a trusted dealer or independent to get their informed opinion based on their huge experience and resource. It would certainly be money better spent than on introducing other components of unknown provenance.. In my opinion.

They might even be able to read a fault code and put their finger on it straight away?

[Darren69]

I'd be inclined to agree with Gary. You could try swapping over the temp sensors and coil sticks to see if the problem moves but other than that I think I would throw in the towel at that point. Is it an '01 or '>02 bike?

[Terryphukwit]

Hi, not being very good at throwing towels anywhere I have pressed on a bit, reasonably confident with mt TPS and have cross checked temp sensor readings so read further though the forums, from what I read these bikes run very lean to combat emission restrictions, chatting with a guy on another forum who is working on adding a thermistor in series with the air temp sensor to trick the ECU into thinking the air is cooler so richening the mix a tad, have added a small resistor as that as al I had and has worked a treat, no stalling and much smoother at low revs, no really sure if it is the best value resistor for the job but this has proven to me that the issue is more than likely in the tune and not an actual fault.
So after advice again, would you get the ECU flashed or fit a PC. Thanks guys..

[slob]

ECU flash every time, the PC is just adding complexity and another point of failure, assuming you can access the ECU directly.
… and check you plugs if you’ve tricked the ECU by messing with the sensor outputs!

[Terryphukwit]

I plan to pull the plugs tomorrow, I have done around 100 miles so they should show some colour, they are iridium so not much of them, las time I looked at them they had done about 300 miles from new and they had no colour to them at all..
So I have no experience with having ECUs flashes, I understand this is the reprogramming of it, where is this done and is it then fine tuned on a dyno or is it just a suitable programme for the bike and that's it.
Thanks.....

[slob]

It’s a bit of both.
The ECU has a ‘map’ which tells the injectors how much fuel to deliver based on sensor readings for engine speed, throttle position, air pressure, temperature etc.
Flashing the ECU loads a new map. A Power commander sits between the ECU and injectors and applies preset changes to the map, so if you can flash the ECU directly the PC is effetively obsolete.
There’s still room for fine tuning (stock or modified map) either based on exhaust gas analysis or dyno readings. A basic map based on your state of tune, eg. open filter and pipes, will put the settings in the right ballpark but a full setup will almost always get you closer to ideal settings. You get what you pay for.

[Terryphukwit]

Thanks, so are there any trusted shops that would be recommended to do this..

[Brendan S4]

https://www.ducatiforum.co.uk/

If you search on this Ducati forum above for ChrisW he will be able to reflash your ecu or point you in the right direction, he was a great help to me a while back regarding ecu issues.

[slob]

BSD in Peterborough may be able to help.
Also might be worth asking Moto Rapido (Winchester) or Steve Jordan (Woking) although Steve usually has a huge waiting list.

[Terryphukwit]

Thanks, I don't mind a bit of travel or spending money is fine for good results.
Pulled the plugs today after around 100 miles with the resister in, definitely rich to will back this off a bit but the ride is so much better at lower speeds, will need to be a trade somewhere.

https://i.postimg.cc/5y1p9T6P/IMG-1651.jpg (https://postimg.cc/47LpB8vt)

[Terryphukwit]

Amazing how clean iridium plugs stay around the electrode..

[Terryphukwit]

Hi,still here and still cutting out,the resister trick was not a success, maybe a lucky ride or something but is now removed.Had another look today, this time looking at charging system and electrics generally, volt meter across the battery, 12.65v, start the bike and at idle im getting 14.4, rev to 3k and this drops to 13.8, you can see the headlight dim slightly, would love to know why volts is higher at tick over??
Anyway as it warms up all is ok until around 90 degree, voltage starts dropping away and idle gets erratic, at 104 the fans come on and if i dont keep the revs up it cuts out.
Following along the wiring I have cleaned all the connectors i can find, the 3a fuse for the ECU was dry and a bit corroded along with the others, these are all cleaned and refitted.
The regulator under the seat was almost glowing it was so hot, more a waffle maker than anything else, cables were also very hot,pulled it out and unplugged the wiring and the plug with 3 x wires looks burned in the connector,I have heard these get hot but surely this is not good, could it be this is causing the issue.. I have moved it now,cables are super long, it is fixed to the frame at the front of the bike in clean air, ill see if things are any better tomorrow.
Any pointers on any of this would be amazing..
Thanks..

[slob]

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=46708

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=58600

[Terryphukwit]

Thanks, I have had a read though these and tested both alternator and rectifier, all appears good, I currently believe it was simply overheating and passing no charge to the battery, this then caused a drop in power to the ECU, this then caused uneven running and when the fan takes the last bit of power it's game over.. Please let me know if I am barking at the wrong tree, I have moved the RR to the outside of the frame and bolted it to a bit of alloy plate to increase the heat sink area, today it did not stall once, clocked up a couple of hours riding and had no dodgy idle issues, I have only one issue now, where do the fans get power from, the ECU switches them on at 104 degrees, they have there own fuse but I was expecting a relay somewhere, when they come on I get a drop in idle speed, not enough to stall but significant enough to assume an issue, I need to have another look at the battery voltage when the fans come on but would not think they suck that much, could they somehow be depriving the ECU of power?? Feeling confident I am nearly there with this now..

[Luddite]

Looking good with the polished exhausts, Marc. If you want to replace the flexi extensions with something a bit more resilient, try the wobble-bars.

A tip for the next time you remove the tank - lubricate the o-rings on the quick release connectors. They're more likely to pop home first time and there's less likelihood of pinching or tearing the o-rings themselves.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=58345

[slob]

Sounds like you're heading in the right direction, I'd replace both sides of the the connector, and any wiring that looks burnt too. I'm guessing the burnt looking insides are causing high resistance when you have more power going through it.

The S4 has a dedicated fan relay according to the wiring diagrams I have, although I don't where exactly this lives. I suspect it's next to the EFI relay on the side of the battery box.
It should be a Green&Black wire from the ECU, Green& Red to from the fusebox and Green&White feeding 12V to the fans. (MY2001, the '02 docs I have won't let me zoom on the wiring diagram)

[jerry]

Due to this type of Regulator overheating issue after losing 2 rr even with huge ally heatsink under seat I moved it to next to front cylinder on the left below ratiator in free airflow ,, never overheats now but its also a shindengren mosfet now so even better actually looks cool too

[Terryphukwit]

Great minds thinking alike here..

https://i.postimg.cc/j248wqSg/IMG-1739.jpg (https://postimg.cc/GT9P6CYG)

I have rebuilt the 3 pin lead, I'll check through the fan wiring tomorrow, thanks for the wiring colours, this will make it much easier, there are some old Scotch connectors hanging off the wireing near the ECU, they have been on the list to investigate so now may be the time..

[uncle duke]

Just thought i'd add to this.. when i fitted iridium plugs to my s2r it ran fine for about a week then started missing & running really badly ...refitted old plugs & it ran fine again..so just got a set of standard plugs ..probably nothing to do with your symptoms but thought i'd mention it.

[Terryphukwit]

So looking at the fans and wireing I can see the fans run directly from the ECU, quite strange wiring as if it didn't quite fit so Ducati extended the lead for the left hand fan, has a 4 inch length of wire with connectors both end, odd colours as well, right hand side plugs straight in and colours line in. Tested both fans for current draw, left hand was over an amp more than the right so stripped it off and pulled it apart, expecting worn brushes or a tight bearing but all ok, there is a diode and capacitor in the motor, the diode is to stop motor overrun voltage spiking back into the ECU which can cause damage to the drivers, this is leaking and burning the extra power, I have removed the diode and now the fan runs at 1.2 amps the same as the other.. iv ordered new diode and this should fix it, I can't put it back on the bike until fixed so I fitted a temporary computer fan, these have the freewheeling diodes in them, just to test with, all appeas good, fans come on without dragging the idle down.....I have been here before so not going to count any chickens yet but :woot::woot:

[Terryphukwit]

https://i.postimg.cc/L5GY7kGX/IMG-1747.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JHczHXrV)

https://i.postimg.cc/8zmdF3qm/IMG-1746.jpg (https://postimg.cc/bZdSW6YZ)

https://i.postimg.cc/PrmYc9rn/IMG-1749.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JGzsHTkp)

[Terryphukwit]

Also two wires have been tapped into at some time at the fuel pump relays, can anyone think of a reason?? Nothing connected now just the connectors..

https://i.postimg.cc/8Cbv56fK/IMG-1744.jpg (https://postimg.cc/mctkphwC)

[slob]

Did you get an owners manual with the bike Terry? There should be a wiring diagram in the back. Both the diagrams I’ve seen definitely show the fans operated by a relay.

[Terryphukwit]

Hi
Yes I have the wiring diagram but the bike does not reflect it, the bike is 2003 if this makes a difference, I can only see 2 x relays, both next to the battery, they both click in with the ignition and click out when the fuel pump stops, none of the wires running to these relays match the fan wiring colours, unplug either and the fuel pump does not run. I wonder if they updated the wiring on the 2003 model and i don't have the wiring diagram for it, ill have to peel back some of the loom and trace the wires, is very strange..:spin:

[slob]

they ate the only two relays in the parts book for an s4.
on air cooled monsters of the same vintage, one is efi, the other is the main relay

[Mr Gazza]

I'm going to give away how little I know about the water cooled bikes here, But I'm sure Darren69's bike is a foggy S4? I don't know the year. I do recall him having trouble with the fans. I think it was that only one fan would work, because the bike was fitted from new with an ECU that would not operate two fans and perhaps various other anomalous wiring things like colours different to diagrams and so forth. I recall he uncovered quite a muddle.

I've shown some half understood observations here but I do see some commonalities. I think Darren could be your man here?

[Darren69]

I'm going to give away how little I know about the water cooled bikes here, But I'm sure Darren69's bike is a foggy S4? I don't know the year. I do recall him having trouble with the fans. I think it was that only one fan would work, because the bike was fitted from new with an ECU that would not operate two fans and perhaps various other anomalous wiring things like colours different to diagrams and so forth. I recall he uncovered quite a muddle.

I've shown some half understood observations here but I do see some commonalities. I think Darren could be your man here?

Well remembered that man. There are 2 variants of S4: '01 and '02. The '01 has one ECU fan driver that will run both fans and the '02 up has 2 drivers that will run 1 fan each,. If you have '02 up ECU it won't run both fans from 1 driver if they are connected together. Both need to be connected to it's own driver.

[Terryphukwit]

Hi Darren,thanks for this,so I can stop looking for a relay now, reading your thread when you had trouble with fans you had one driver not working, how did you get past this?
Also could you look at my pictures above, does the wiring look the same as yours with the bullet connectors and the short extension piece on the left hand fan, this looks standard as in not messed with but not sure..

[Terryphukwit]

they ate the only two relays in the parts book for an s4.
on air cooled monsters of the same vintage, one is efi, the other is the main relay

The wiring diagram I have S4 01 does have 3 x relays, main ignition, fuel injection and the third is fans. Not the same as the bike though and I don't have the same as below..

https://i.postimg.cc/Yq0XJX1d/fanrelay2.png (https://postimg.cc/YhcfFzDF)

[Darren69]

Hi Darren,thanks for this,so I can stop looking for a relay now, reading your thread when you had trouble with fans you had one driver not working, how did you get past this?
Also could you look at my pictures above, does the wiring look the same as yours with the bullet connectors and the short extension piece on the left hand fan, this looks standard as in not messed with but not sure..

I don't remember seeing any bullet connectors on my S4 just the Superseal ones. The wiring is slightly different on the '02 bikes because there should be 2 fan drivers in the ECU which operate independently and can be set at different temperatures. Mine being Fogarty means it is an '02 bike that was incorrectly fitted with an '01 ECU at Ducati and only has 1 fan driver the 2nd fan and wiring is redundant.

Someone had previously chopped into the fan wires and joined them together and I found that like that neither fan worked so I just disconnected the join and now the 1st fan works the 2nd one will never work with the '01 ECU and '02 wiring loom.

I had considered wiring in a relay to operate both fans but I decided against that as when the fan is disconnected it throws up an error on the dash and I think with a relay it would do the same as it would not see the fan connected.

So the bike has only 1 fan which works fine and is rarely used anyway and engine coolant temp is displayed on the LCD dash anyway. I suppose I could always wire in a manual switch to operate the 2nd fan but I don't think it's really that important (at least here in the UK) :) I think if I were to take the bike to warmer climbs then I may do it just in case.

I have an '02 ECU which should work but I would maybe have to get that flashed and keyed to the clocks etc. Maybe one day? :)

[Terryphukwit]

Hi, still here and still not fixed but really close now, its been into the shop, they put it on the diagnosis and cleared faults, replaced the wiring from alternator to RR, replaced the battery with a second hand one they had for free, the one on there was new in January but would not give out more than 12.3v ??
anyway, this still did not fix it but they did not say they had, they did the obvious but did not want to run up costs. charged me an hour that i thought was more than fair. I have now hard wired a meter to the battery,this i can monitor all the time, when you start the bike it gives a reasonable 14 ish volts, then quite randomly it will drop away to 12. something, mostly around 12.8 but then drops to 12.5, i can really feel this is what is affecting the running.
Referred to the thread on here for checking the charging system again, I have done it before but went through it again, alternator and RR check out but it has to be one of them so I have ordered a new RR, one of the mosfet ones and a set of connectors.
This should be arriving Tuesday, will get it fitted and report back, one question, would you recommend crimping or crimping and then soldering the connectors onto the wires?
Thanks.......

[slob]

Soldering can make wires more brittle as it runs down them, I know some folk swear by soldering but a good crimp connection should be fine.
I take it you're aware of very cheap, dodgy MOSFET RRs on auction sites?

[Terryphukwit]

Soldering can make wires more brittle as it runs down them, I know some folk swear by soldering but a good crimp connection should be fine.
I take it you're aware of very cheap, dodgy MOSFET RRs on auction sites?

Hi, Thanks, ill go with the crimp, yes iv seen them for £17, bargain!! not sure what would or could be wrong with them but iv had a supplier recommended by the guy that looked at it for me.

Out of interest has anyone had any experiences with these cheap units..

[slob]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYxtCC330Xg

if you play it back at 1.5x speed it's a lot less dull

[Terryphukwit]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TYxtCC330Xg

if you play it back at 1.5x speed it's a lot less dull

That's a very long explanation about nothing, its obvious they are copies but that is what pattern parts are, i'm almost tempted to buy one to see what you get out of interest..

[Darren69]

That's a very long explanation about nothing, its obvious they are copies but that is what pattern parts are, i'm almost tempted to buy one to see what you get out of interest..

I think the point he's making is that if you expect the cheap FH020AA ones to be MOSFET then they most likely won't be.

[Terryphukwit]

So just purely out of interest I have bought one of the cheap Chinese RRs
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/373672205673
it is the cheapest one I could find, it calls itself an upgrade and the word mosfet is used repeatedly, this is only a few £s more than i paid for a connector kit. Lets find out what you get!!

[slob]

the 'For' at the front of the description is the first clue...

I guess how hot it gets will tell you whether it's a FET or shunt

[Darren69]

I did spot some like this one which has all the indication of being a MOSFET , according to the video, eg the tooling marks and the stainless back plate are present:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174562636883?hash=item28a4be7453:g:--gAAOSwjQRf22hi

It's still really cheap as the genuine ones are a lot more money.

[Terryphukwit]

So, Chinese RR has arrived, actually arrived yesterday so was very quick, this is more than i can say for the other one I ordered which was out of stock and is now on back order.

Is all fitted and working well, the connectors came with it and are annoyingly exactly the same as the set i ordered separately that cost almost as much. Regulator is not mosfet, it would be hard to believe that for £14 plus VAT "came with a VAT receipt" it would be, what I can say is that it works fine, gives a very constant 14.5 to 14.6v which I am monitoring with a voltmeter on the bike. the bike now idles well at 1100rpm which I had at 1600 before to try to sidestep the stalling. The bike appears much happier now even when temp is at 104 and the fans are running. I have fitted it at the front of the frame just inside behind the head stock so will have plenty of air to cool it, ill add some pics of the finished install when i take them and will report back if it explodes..

[Terryphukwit]

https://i.postimg.cc/xdPKzndS/IMG-1775.jpg (https://postimg.cc/7CfGvv7B)

https://i.postimg.cc/wxrbvcPQ/IMG-1777.jpg (https://postimg.cc/234x9vC1)

https://i.postimg.cc/GmmQx4Zm/IMG-1774.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Whxg21NB)

[jerry]

I had a cheap Chinese one like that 3 years ago but after a month it blew up and when chopped up it was not MOSFET but just a shunt rectifier inside ,,,,,hope you have better luck longterm ...I now have a proper shindengren one

[alan s4]

As above, I had a non MOSFET fitted as a replacement and it went on fire whilst I was riding, not something I would recommend even as an "experiment".

I recently bought a used FH020AA unit for my 996. They are now fitted as standard to Multistrada's, I picked mine up for less that 50 quid.