Advice please on rebuilding a 2005 Monster

[Hamish]

Hi Everyone,

My godson and I have just bought a 2005 Monster 620 Dark - 02, with a V5 & all the paperwork from the previous owner, in 4 large wooden crates.

We have unboxed everything and are starting to clean and label all the bits, ready for a full rebuild. It has been boxed for about 5 years.

The engine turns and it looks like we have a complete bike. We have ordered a Haynes workshop manual.

Our plans are:

Drain engine oil and replace. What oil please?
Replace cambelts, plugs, air filter, fuel pipes, battery? Where to buy these parts please?
Remove alarm to stop noise and immobiliser kicking in when we come to start it?
Replace 2013 dated tyres?
The spark plugs are old Champions RA6 HC & RA4 HC - are these correct, or can any UKMOC members suggest best plugs to buy please?
We need to replace 4 badly corroded exhaust studs. Cann we use studs from local nut & bolt shop?
Cambelts are labelled 190 187 5 208 DS & 153 5 208 DS - can we just order 2005 Monster belts?
Replace belt tensioners or service & keep?
The injector packs have been cleaned with carb cleaner - do we need to strip and rebuild like an old carb, or should they work OK with new fuel please?

ANY ADVICE WELCOMED PLEASE?

We live in Norfolk - Any MOC members live near us who would like a look at it over a cuppa and biscuits?

Thanks in anticipation.

Richard & Hamish

[Mr Gazza]

What sort of biscuits have you got?

[mickj]

Welcome to the forum Hamish :thumbsup:, good luck with your project and I'm sure there will be plenty of help forthcoming from the other members, hobnobs is always a good starting point :chuckle:.

[slob]

+fuel filter

parts: Call Craig or Luke at Moto Rapido 01962 873981 (mention UKMOC for 10% discount on most parts) Super efficient mail order.

[Mr Gazza]

Drain engine oil and replace. What oil please? 10w40 Motorcycle specific semi-synth. Don't use car oil or the clutch will slip.

Replace cambelts, Ducati belts from Moto Rapido, or Exactfit from http://www.exactuk.com/about-exactfit-cam-belts/
plugs, Use NGK, not Champion, correct number will be in the Haynes manual.
air filter, and oil filter.. K&N from ebay
fuel pipes, Moto Rapido again.
battery? Motobatt.. Price doesn't vary much but shop around on ebay
Where to buy these parts please?
Remove alarm to stop noise and immobiliser kicking in when we come to start it? Pass!
Replace 2013 dated tyres? Oh yes definitely!!
The spark plugs are old Champions RA6 HC & RA4 HC - are these correct, or can any UKMOC members suggest best plugs to buy please? As above NGK
We need to replace 4 badly corroded exhaust studs. Cann we use studs from local nut & bolt shop? Yes, use stainless if you can.
Cambelts are labelled 190 187 5 208 DS & 153 5 208 DS - can we just order 2005 Monster belts? Order for 620.. As above.
Replace belt tensioners or service & keep? If they spin freely and are not rough, use again. Expect a little resistance from the seals
The injector packs have been cleaned with carb cleaner - do we need to strip and rebuild like an old carb, or should they work OK with new fuel please? Ultra-sound cleaner is best... Pop them in the one I currently have on loan from Utopia, a member on here.

ANY ADVICE WELCOMED PLEASE?

We live in Norfolk - Any MOC members live near us who would like a look at it over a cuppa and biscuits? See previous post.. :D

Thanks in anticipation.

Richard & Hamish

[slob]

NGK DCPR8E

I'd use something like these on the exhaust studs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Flashed-Exhaust-Manifold-Nuts-M8-x-1-25-M10-x-1-5-Pitch-High-Temperature/262917425505?var=561918993594&hash=item3d37198961:m:mR5s8jR8ZzR_Bqr3bInnKlg&var=561918993594

[Mr Gazza]

NGK DCPR8E

I'd use something like these on the exhaust studs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Copper-Flashed-Exhaust-Manifold-Nuts-M8-x-1-25-M10-x-1-5-Pitch-High-Temperature/262917425505?var=561918993594&hash=item3d37198961:m:mR5s8jR8ZzR_Bqr3bInnKlg&var=561918993594

Good call Rob.. Couldn't remember the number off hand, and not sure if same for 620.

Slar plenty of coppaslip round if you use stainless studs... You'll know how to slar it if you're true Norfolk... :D

[utopia]

Yep, just to confirm that if Gazza is ok with it, you can certainly stick your injectors in my ultrasonic cleaner which he currently has on loan.

Is the fuel tank plastic or steel ?
If plastic, be aware that ethanol in petrol causes them to swell and not fit properly.
Draining and leaving them to dry out makes them shrink back to original dimensions.
I imagine its completely empty now, but worth making sure.

[dacs]

Hamish, welcome. I'm not that far from you, in Aylsham. You don't say whether this is your first Monster so the following may be superfluous but the hardest thing I found when fiddling with (sorry, maintaining) mine was dropping the assumptions that come with working on Japanese motorcycles - the design approaches are culturally different.
This link may help https://www.ducatiomaha.com/pages/ducati-oem-parts - drop down the page until you find the appropriate year and model for part numbers/exploded diagrams to supplement the Haynes manual.
Be aware that buying new Ducati bits will avoid the minefield of trying to find second-hand stuff on Ebay, which will fit A Monster but not necessarily YOUR Monster (don't ask how much I spent finding that out).
Ask on this Forum if you have a problem, there will always be someone who can give an answer in my experience. Best of luck with the 4 boxes of bits, I look forward to photos of the completed build.

[Uncle Bob]

Hello and welcome. I can guarantee you that I'll be absolutely no help to you technically, but I'll definitely be following your progress with great interest!

[Moco1961]

Slar plenty of coppaslip round if you use stainless studs... You'll know how to slar it if you're true Norfolk... :D

.....SPREAD, !.........I love a good quiz, you'll have to try harder than that Gary:chuckle:

[Grumpy]

Biscuits.....did someone day biscuits!:mand:

[Flip]

What sort of biscuits have you got?

Biscuits.....did someone day biscuits!:mand:

Trust you two!!! :D

Hamish and Richard, good luck with the rebuild- you know what they say when doing these things to always allow your budget, plus at least half again over?

That theory may be tested!

[Darkness]

Especially the biscuit kitty!

[Mr Gazza]

Ug oh! Better allow more for the biscuits already...Leave the Hobnobs alone Boris you 2@.

http://www.msn.com/en-gb/news/uknews/tax-on-snacks-would-have-huge-impact-on-obesity-say-experts/ar-AAGQ34p?ocid=ientp

[Hamish]

All - many thanks for all your top tips.

Gazza - Thaats any biscuits you like old chap. Hobnobs, digsetives, custard creams. You name it.

Utopia - Many thanks for your offer of your ultrasonic cleaner, when Gazza has finished with it. I'll liaise with Gazza and lure him with Bourbons and stottie cake.

The fuel tank is plastic and has been empty for 5 years. If there's a fuel pump inside is likely to be gummed up with modern fuel additives, so could we ultrasonic clean that too, or just carb cleaner?

[Mr Gazza]

I'm very strict with my biscuits. I have exactly two chocolate Hobnobs every day as a special treat when I get home from work... I can eat only one Pringle too.. :look:

We'll have to sort a time to view this gestating Monster, I think Dacs and Grumpy would like a look too, so could be quite a party?

Regarding the injectors; 30 minutes in the tank should do the trick.
Regarding the fuel pump, not sure that ultra-sound cleaning would be ideal? But probably wouldn't do any harm provided it was thoroughly dried out afterwards, as the cleaning medium is mostly water. A quick dunk in some clutch and brake cleaner afterwards should get rid of the water come to think of it.
The best thing might be to just immerse it in clean fresh petrol to soften any residues, then just circulate them round in normal use, relying on the new filter* to catch anything thus loosened? Or in other words, just use it.

Any thoughts on that from the UKMOC think tank?

*Fuel filter = Mahle KL145. This is also a common BMW fitment, often listed a bit cheaper for beemers? Try Opie Oils, but shop around.

[mickj]

When it's all rebuilt Hamish use Esso premium fuel as that is ethanol free.

[slob]

I would definitely soak the pump in fresh fuel (maybe with a dash of injector cleaner mixed in) ovenight. Then turn the ignition on and off repeatedly to see if it's still alive, you should hear a buzz as it primes each time the ignition is switched on if it's not gummed up solid.

IIRC Fuel filter is a little different on plastic tank models, it's a grey plastic unit that attaches to the access plate/pump assembly in the bottom of the tank. Steel tank bikes have a pressed steel filter that's accessed by removing the filler neck. The guys at Moto Rapido will know which one, just tell them you've got a plastic tank model.

[Mr Gazza]

IIRC Fuel filter is a little different on plastic tank models,

Yes.. What Slob says.. Mahle KL145 is for metal tanks.

[Darren69]

You mentioned earlier about removing the immobilizer? Do you not have the original keys (red or black)? I assume you mean the factory immobilizer that is in the instrument pod. It can be done apparently but is not straightforward and could be expensive. I'm sure there are some on here who run non standard clocks that must have done it without requiring a new virgin DP ECU. From what I have been told though a standard ECU re-flash will not be able to do this, its deeper into the ECU.

[Mr Gazza]

Re immobiliser; Is it possible to replace the noise source (Horn or hidden beeper?) with a resistor? so the immobiliser thinks it is sounding the alarm, but is in fact mute?
Maybe it could be replaced with a flashing light, which would be less disturbing?

[Darren69]

I dont think so Gaz. The sensor in the ignition barrel reads the chip in the key and if the code matches what has been programmed into the ecu it will de-activate the immobilzer otherwise the ecu will be dead. You need the red key to be able the re-program it to accept new keys or if you replace the ecu or clocks. DP ecu comes with that switched off if you get a new one but most people will probably program them to the keys for the bike.

[slob]

removing immobiliser is an ecu flashing operation, removing a 3rd party alarm is a rewiring job,

[Hamish]

Hi Gazza & Dacs,

Do you fancy a trip down the A47 this Sunday for a look at the rebuild?

Gazza - tea, biscuits & stottie cake at the ready.......

[Nickj]

When it's all rebuilt Hamish use Esso premium fuel as that is ethanol free.

To be on the safe side seal the tank, any of the ethanol safe (it's just slow set epoxy with a colouring in it) kits will do fine as I suspect that ethanol free fuel is going to get even more scarce quite quickly.

[Mr Gazza]

Hamish. It's going to be peeing down all Sunday and I'm busy doing some woodwork for Dacs.

The Sunday after, we are meeting for breakfast at The Gin Trap, Ringstead.
That's near Hunstanton, so not too far from you.
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?p=569398#post569398
Why don't you pop in if you can, and meet the lads?
We could follow on afterwards to look at your project if that's convenient for you?

[dacs]

Hi Gazza & Dacs,

Do you fancy a trip down the A47 this Sunday for a look at the rebuild?

Gazza - tea, biscuits & stottie cake at the ready.......

Hamish, thanks for the invite, given the forecast I have to agree with Gazza (he does not turn down a free biscuit easily). I should be at the breakfast meeting in a week's time, hope to see you.

[Grumpy]

Hi Gazza & Dacs,

Do you fancy a trip down the A47 this Sunday for a look at the rebuild?

Gazza - tea, biscuits & stottie cake at the ready.......


Hamish. It's going to be peeing down all Sunday and I'm busy doing some woodwork for Dacs.

The Sunday after, we are meeting for breakfast at The Gin Trap, Ringstead.
That's near Hunstanton, so not too far from you.
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?p=569398#post569398
Why don't you pop in if you can, and meet the lads?
We could follow on afterwards to look at your project if that's convenient for you?

Hamish, thanks for the invite, given the forecast I have to agree with Gazza (he does not turn down a free biscuit easily). I should be at the breakfast meeting in a week's time, hope to see you.

I'm interested in coming along for biscuits...err I meant to have a look! Although I land at Stansted early hours of Sunday morning, returning from a break to Italy.
If I surface in time to head for the Gin Trap, will drop Gazza a text.

[Flip]

When it's all rebuilt Hamish use Esso premium fuel as that is ethanol free.

Not anymore it would seem- least not in West Sussex. My local Esso station down the road doesn’t even have super-unleaded and this one a few miles away at Pulborough clearly states both regular and super as being E5.

https://i.postimg.cc/YSnfvzRP/81-BBD4-CE-81-FB-49-E3-A546-3-C93-F3-F1-A887.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qtKCYn9c)

[Mr Gazza]

Even the best is E5 now. That's up to 5% Ethanol... So suck it up!

[Nickj]

Which does mean the water content of the fuel you buy has increased, ethanol holds it's own weight/mass in water ... hence the rusting of tank bases ... the expanding fuel tanks ... rotting rubber ... additional corrosion ... decreased MPG ... decreased power output and all the rest of the goodness that accompanies it.

Which is also water at (todays local best price) £1:20 a litre

Seal the tank before it looks like a pregnant elephant ;)

[Luddite]

Not anymore it would seem- least not in West Sussex. My local Esso station down the road doesn’t even have super-unleaded and this one a few miles away at Pulborough clearly states both regular and super as being E5.

https://i.postimg.cc/YSnfvzRP/81-BBD4-CE-81-FB-49-E3-A546-3-C93-F3-F1-A887.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qtKCYn9c)

Don't panic, Flip, it's only the labelling that's changed...

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=57647

[jerry]

Not anymore it would seem- least not in West Sussex. My local Esso station down the road doesn’t even have super-unleaded and this one a few miles away at Pulborough clearly states both regular and super as being E5.

https://i.postimg.cc/YSnfvzRP/81-BBD4-CE-81-FB-49-E3-A546-3-C93-F3-F1-A887.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qtKCYn9c)

Its UK wide now ...Esso have been forced into dropping pure benzine by UK legislation ....sad

[mickj]

Not anymore it would seem- least not in West Sussex. My local Esso station down the road doesn’t even have super-unleaded and this one a few miles away at Pulborough clearly states both regular and super as being E5.

https://i.postimg.cc/YSnfvzRP/81-BBD4-CE-81-FB-49-E3-A546-3-C93-F3-F1-A887.jpg (https://postimg.cc/qtKCYn9c)

I have contacted Esso and they tell me that it's a legal requirement to have the stickers on all pumps but their Supreme+ fuel is still ethanol free. E5 just means it can contain up to 5% ethanol.

[Mr Gazza]

Which does mean the water content of the fuel you buy has increased, ethanol holds it's own weight/mass in water ... hence the rusting of tank bases ... the expanding fuel tanks ... rotting rubber ... additional corrosion ... decreased MPG ... decreased power output and all the rest of the goodness that accompanies it.

Which is also water at (todays local best price) £1:20 a litre

Seal the tank before it looks like a pregnant elephant ;)

I'm no scientist, but I'm going to disagree with this.
The fuel does not come with increased water content from the pump (or shouldn't if it's been stored properly), so you're not buying water at petrol rates.

Ethanol is hygroscopic. That is to say it can and will absorb water from the air, if it is exposed to it.
Air is drawn into the tank via the breather as the fuel level drops, so it is exposed to air in this way.
If you top the tank up at the end of each journey, then the amount of air/moisture in the tank is at the minimum possible. This is especially important if there is an interval of days before the next ride. So store your bike with a full tank.. Preferably do this with low Ethanol or Ethanol free fuel.

It's perfectly possible to get a little water in the tank even if no Ethanol is used, so a periodic drain and clean is a good thing. This phenomenon is not unique to Ethanol.

Not sure what exactly causes all the problems associated with Ethanol, but I'm guessing that it's osmosis. what the role of water has in this I also don't know.

Regarding the effect on power and mpg, lets just think of the use of water/alcohol injection in aero engines, and also that strange phenomenon that we all must have noticed when the engine really seems to run well on a damp evening??

Sorry guys, not joining in with all this alarmist stuff and claiming to be a victim. There has got to be some logic in trying to grow renewable fuel rather than burning the finite fossil stuff?.. Just needs a slightly different management.

...Oh bugger! Just remembered I've left the bike empty after a wet ride home two weeks ago.. :banghead:

[Luddite]

Its UK wide now ...Esso have been forced into dropping pure benzine by UK legislation ....sad

I would refer the honourable gentleman to my reply to this question that he raised on 25 July 2019! :rolleyes:

https://i.postimg.cc/SKRK3cB0/Clive-Dunn-don-t-panic.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Always treat with caution any news that starts with the word 'apparently'!

So, apparently(!), the appearance of 'E5' labels on forecourt pumps has nothing to do with any changes to Esso's Synergy Supreme+, it is merely the application of new fuel labelling guidelines previously announced by the government back in February.

https://www.gov.uk/government/news/government-launches-new-campaign-to-inform-drivers-about-greener-fuels

Under the new rules, two new labels must be shown on all pumps by September - 'E5' and 'B7'; 'E5' means petrol with an ethanol content not exceeding 5% (so including ethanol-free), and 'B7' is for diesel with no more than 7% FAME (Fatty acid methyl ester).

If and when 10% ethanol fuel is introduced, then a new label 'E10' will be introduced for 5%-10% ethanol content.

There is still no legislation requiring a minimum ethanol content in fuel; legislation only governs maximum ethanol content.

An email to Esso yesterday prompted the now familiar response i.e.

"Esso Synergy Supreme+ is ethanol free (except in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area and Scotland) and we have no current intention to add ethanol to Synergy Supreme+ in other areas of the UK."

So...as you were!

[I'll attach a copy of this to the other ethanol thread to bring everything together http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=54542]

[Jez900ie]

I always buy Esso now.

I seem to recall that adding fuel preserver is benificial too for the winter? Anyone have anything to add to this?

https://www.motorgeek.co.uk/cgi-bin/ecom.cgi?Command=ShowProduct&db_pid=1395

[Hamish]

Hi Gazza and Dave,
Really enjoyed the Norfolk Branch MOC Meeting with you guys yesterday. Thank you for all your brilliant advice and thanks for coming to look at our 4 boxes of Monster 620 bits.
Utopia - Thanks for your offer of your ultra sound machine - Gazza has taken our injectors to clean them in your machine.

Thanks again all.

[Hamish]

Hi Gary & Dave,

Thanks again for popping across to see us yesterday, and giving us some excellent advice. Your bikes sounded great as they went up the road. We managed to get the cam belts re-adjusted, fitted the shims in the rear swing arm, found the choke lever and fitted it and put the rear wheel back on.
We bled the rear brakes off the bike as suggested with the slave much higher than the master, and it works really well.

Thanks again.

Photos to follow.

[Mr Gazza]

Good to see you again and to meet Hamish.
You've made some fantastic progress and it's looking good.
Good news finding the choke lever... Even if it's really a fast idle lever with a choke symbol on it.. :rolleyes:

Till next time.. Keep up the good work.

[Hamish]

Hi Guys,

Great to meet up with some of you for breakfast on Sunday. Thanks Gazza for the tank clip - very kind of you. Richard and I made great progress on the bike this weekend, please see attached photos for your entertainment, from boxes that were going to be shipped to Columbia to a Monster (that needs the wiring finished - so please ignore the messy wires everywhere)

Can anyone please advise where the pictured hose is supposed to be positioned (should it be connected to something or is it a drain)? Its about 18mm and has a strange rubber loop at the end.

Also, The wiring harness has coloured cables to help identify, but the components like the indicators and switches etc that connect into it seem to have no identifying colours on the wires into them. Does it matter which cable goes into which (ie are components like the indicators reversible)?

Thanks for all your help in advance, and I look forward to riding the bike to a meet up soon.

[Darren69]

Unfortunately you can't post pictures directly on here. You need to post pictures to a hosting site and link to them on here. PostImage or Photobucket or similar

[Mr Gazza]

https://i.postimg.cc/J4rqNmhk/hamish-boxes.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

https://i.postimg.cc/7YNqR1DR/hamixh-pipe.jpg (https://postimages.org/)[/url]

[url=https://postimages.org/]https://i.postimg.cc/tRw6Tjxb/hamish-bike.jpg (https://suwalls.com/games/lara-croft-rise-of-the-tomb-raider-4)

[Mr Gazza]

The hose with the loop looks like a breather hose and could connect either to the crankcase breather catch tank or the air cleaner box.. Others will confirm.

If there are only two wires going into a switch or bulb holder, then unless it is an LED (read diode, polarity sensitive) it doesn't matter which way round they go.
With the indicators it looks like white/green and black to the right and white/black and black to the left.
That would seem to indicate (see what I did there?) that black is the earth.

There should be a downloadable wiring diagram somewhere.. Anyone know where to find it?

[Hamish]

Thanks Gazza for your "indication"

Thanks Darren too.

[Darren69]

IIRC the wiring diagram is in the back of the owners handbook which you used to be able to download from Ducati.com for free, but I've just checked and they no longer go back that far.

If you can't find a link to download one you could alway buy a copy on CD of the full workshop manual from somewhere like ebay. I've seen these are about £10.

[Hamish]

My godson Hamish just bought a 2005 Monster 620 Dark - 02, with a V5 & all the paperwork in 4 large wooden crates.

We have unboxed everything and are starting to clean and label all the bits, ready for a full rebuild. It has been boxed for over 6 years.

The engine turns and it looks like we have an almost complete bike.

Gazza and Dave have visited a couple of times and both have been incredibly supportive and encouraging in our rebuild, which we do about one weekend every 5 weeks.

We are not trained mechanics or engineers, just keen, and certainly don't have the skill and ability of 'Buzzer', Gazza or Dave.

Thanks again to everyone who has given us tips.

[Mr Gazza]

Bingo! Well done to both of you.. :thumbsup:

You have reaped the reward for patience and thoroughness. I hope she gives you many years of good service and joy.. :biggrin:

[Hamish]

Hello All,

Hamish’s Monster 620 passed its MOT last week after a full rebuild from 4 crates containing 1000s of pieces, which had been lying around for several years.

A huge thanks to Gazza & Dave for all their help and advice over the last year of hard work. Hamish has a design background, not an engineering background and he has found the full rebuild very interesting and he has learnt a lot about rebuilding motorbikes, which was the aim for the project. I thought his favourite part of the rebuild would be learning about the TDC markers on the cams and how to replace the cambelts, but his favourite part was using a large piece of cardboard to make a facsimile crankcase to keep all the crankcase bolts in the right order.



When Covid -19 is all over, Hamish is keen to take the Monster back to his house near London, and I’m hoping he will tax and insure it from 1 July 2020, so either he or I can bring it to the next UKMOC meeting, especially if it’s going to be at Wendling & Beston Airfield Memorial. If it is there, I might even ask my wife to come along in a car with some thermoses full of piping hot tea & coffee………and of course some biccies for Lord Gazza.

Just in case anyone is thinking of doing the same sort of project, here are some notes from the last 9 months:

We bought a Haynes manual, which proved very useful.

We slowly built up the frame, added the forks, then the swinging arms and wheels. The chain had been cleaned in brake cleaner (Gazza’s favourite) and left in a bath of fresh oil over the winter 2019/2020.

We bought and replaced many nuts and bolts, including those for the handlebars, rocker covers, swinging arms and crankcases.

The exhaust pipes were cleaned and new O rings and new stud nuts fitted.

Both brake calipers were stripped, cleaned and rebuilt with new pads.

We removed the rocker covers and checked the valve clearances, which were all good, so left them alone. We also sprayed lots of fresh oil around the rockers & cams, as they had been dry for over 6 years.

The engine was fitted to the frame and she started to look like a Monster.

We did an oil and filter change using Motul 10w40 Ducati Motorcycle specific semi-syn.

We replaced the cambelts, plugs, air filter, exhaust studs and fuel pipes.

The fuel injectors were badly gummed up, so when Gazza & Dave visited us, Gazza took them away and used Utopia’s ultra-sound gizmo to clean them. (Thanks also to Utopia)

We had a look at the wet clutch to find it very worn and it had a crack on the inner drum webs. We found a Ducati dealer online who was clearing out old stock and bagged a brand new clutch drum at half price. We also renewed the seals on the clutch operating rod.

We bled both brake systems and the clutch, ensuring all the 6-10 year old brake fluid had been fully flushed out.

We fitted a new battery, switched on the ignition and were amazed when most items lit up for the first time in over 6 years.

The old Datatool alarm/immobiliser was past its best and kept sounding off randomly, so it was removed.

We had one leftover wire and no neutral light, so made a quick call to Gazza, who advised to look at the back of the engine. After close inspection of the engine, we found the connector covered in grey duct tape. The light works fine now. The indicators were intermittent, so we took off the handlebar switches, dissembled them, cleaned them and all good now.

Various relays looked grimy, so we removed them, cleaned the posts and re-assembled.

Both tyres had lost pressure whilst standing idle for 6 years so were inflated and date checked. The front tyre was date marked 25 12, and the rear was 03 13, so both about 7 years old. It was decided to keep them on, just in case the MOT revealed some other expensive faults.

to be contiued........

[Hamish]

continued from last post:

STARTING

We had a final look around to make sure everything was in order, then put some fresh petrol in the tank and hoped that after 6 years, the internal electric fuel pump wasn’t gummed up. A final check of the fuel lines, and all was looking good, so we took her outside the garage and turned on the ignition. The internal fuel pump ran for 4 seconds, which sounded promising.

Choke on, press the start button and after a bit of coughing, she fired up on both cylinders and kept running.

There was a small oil leak from the rocker covers, so new seals were fitted.

She passed the MOT in June 2020, but has still not been more than 5 MPH or out of first gear for over 6 years.

Gazza has agreed to give her a shake down (safety) ride, as he is used to Monsters.

So, what does she owe us, not that Hamish will sell her?

Hamish paid £700 for the 4 crates and all the items mentioned above add up to £400, so she owes us £1100.

An update to follow when she is taxed and insured………

[Mr Gazza]

Well done Richard and Hamish. That's the best story I've read on here for a long time.

I'm looking forward to a gentle test ride on those tyres, even more so if you manage to get new ones fitted by that time, definitely a good move if you're riding it down to London.

Also looking forward to a meet up at the Memorial, I'm looking at July 5th for that, unless the US servicemen have a service on that day?

That's a bargain Monster, but all the profit is in the experience and the nice folk you meet along the way.. :D

I have now tried to avoid buying new bolts with my current restoration. I bought a bright Nickel plating kit and also steel specific polishing soaps and dedicated mops. If the threads are good and the heads still hexagonal, I polish them up and put the sparkle back on with a layer of bright Nickel. Obviously this also works well on spacers and many other parts that soon add up if replaced with a card. I draw the line at washers, I do buy those and some of the smaller nuts as it's like peeling peas!

You didn't mention the best tip of all if contemplating a re-build or restoration, and that's join a nice owners club. You came up trumps with this one, and I hope you have a long happy association with it.

It's been a pleasure to be involved with your project. Thanks for allowing us to help.

:ukm:

[Darren69]

Well done! Another one saved. Any photos of the bike or the build?

I think you were fortunate as the thing I will say with restoring/rebuilding basket case Ducati or other exotic Italian bikes is that it can potentially get very expensive very quickly especially if you have any engine damage or faulty electronics. The cost of some new parts is eye-watering.

[utopia]

Its great to hear of your success.
I am sure that your pleasure is as much about the process as it is about the end result.
I'm equally hopeful (and pretty confident) that the subsequent riding/ownership experience will be just as rewarding.
Congratulations on a job well done and a first pass mot test.
Hopefully our paths will cross at a meet sometime soon and I can see the results of your labours in the metal.

[dacs]

Great news, guys :D. This put a smile on my face this morning, especially the bit about the cardboard screw holder. Looking forward to seeing the end result, it was looking really good the last time I saw it.

[Mr Gazza]

Some photos of the project that Richard asked me to post.

https://i.ibb.co/LNbbcKy/Hamish-1.jpg (https://ibb.co/kmkkwZT)
[/url]

https://i.ibb.co/cYh64WJ/Hamish-2.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)


[url=https://ibb.co/CQR9bpX]https://i.ibb.co/WfmzkNd/Hamish-3.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)

https://i.ibb.co/nc0HgcB/Hamish-4.jpg (https://ibb.co/Xs4h2sD)

https://i.ibb.co/7StBQY7/Hamish-5.jpg (https://ibb.co/PrGJMmB)

[Darren69]

Looks like they've done a nice job on that so far. Just needs the wiring sorting and a few other sundry items. The wiring can take a considerable time or a lot longer depending on the state of the loom you've been left by the DPO. I've spent countless hours disconnecting and re-routing stuff on mine, buying the correct frame wiring straps and other stuff to get it back to how it should be only to find in some cases the wiring has been shortened, bodged with tape to mask some evil bodgery or otherwise modified that causes some problems elsewhere. And it can eat into a lot of time, it is worth it however especially with the 4v inj bikes which are a birds nest of wires and other gubbins which benefit from being hidden away. I'm 90% happy with mine now and have decided to move on and do other improvements.

It is worth getting a copy of the official workshop manual in whatever format you can as in mine it usefully shows all that kind of stuff in detail. Whether it can be achieved with what you have is another matter. Good job though. Hope you enjoy both the bike and this forum too.

[Zimbo]

Thanks for sharing the story, Hamish, it’s been good to read about your journey and fantastic to hear the bike is alive and works as she should. Well done to the forum members that have provided help along the way, it’s what this group is all about!

[Hamish]

Hamish has just phoned and is taking his Monster back to London tomorrow. The tickover is still high when warm at 2000 rpm. Our Haynes manual states that you have to get the dealer to do it with a Mathesis test set. All throttle cables and choke cables have free play and are not sticking.

There must be a simple way to get tickover back to 1000 RPM please?

I can easily access the idle mixture screws, but don't want to cock it up.

Any pointers before Saturday 6 pm appreciated.

[crust]

Top work.

Taking it to 'that London' - has he got a lockable garage and a selection of padlocks, big chains etc?

Almax are expensive but you won't find a better chain, just need something very solid to lock it to.

[Mr Gazza]

Sounds like the only way to adjust the tickover is via the TPS (throttle position sensor).
This lives on the left hand side of the the throttle bodies, it's a round plastic object with two screws. I'm not sure if it can be manually adjusted with the screws or if it has to be electronically adjusted, hence the mathesis tester.
I have heard that physically adjusting it is incredibly hard and that wouldn't be something I would attempt on my own bike!

So am I going to miss the boat (or bike) with the cover puller?

[slob]

The TPS affects tickover but there are a couple of other things to check.
Enrichener cable routing can cause an issue on those models and can hold the quadrant in fast-idle position. This will likely show itself as the engine revving as the bars are turned side to side

Make sure the throttle stop screw (1) isn't holding the quadrant in an open position.
Also check the same thing for the master throttle adjuster (2).
If you haven't messed with it the balance screw (3) should still be in the right place.

The factory manual recommends setting the air bypass screws (10) right in and turning them out until you get 1000-1100 rpm tickover (approx 1 full turn out)

http://www.thelasturl.net/img/throttles1.jpg http://www.thelasturl.net/img/throttles2.jpg

[slob]

jpdiag is your friend if you don't have a mathesis tester

also any air leak between the throttle bodies and engine will cause the engine to run lean and idle too fast.

[Darren69]

Is it a 620ie with a non-linear TPS? If it is then do NOT TPS reset through the diagnostic software or you'll be looking to buy a new one. Read this: -

http://www.bikeboy.org/ducati2vthrottleb.html