Clutch push rod

[CarloL]

It's for the 748s, my push rod snapped, Ducati have a later model with a location pin, my version has no pin

I have an oberon slave on there too

Any who, I fitted up everything, pressure plate, springs, master, but the lever is rock hard, I put back in my old rod, works fine

Do you need to remove the pin?

[Mr Gazza]

The later models did have a pin to stop the rod spinning, but the length should be the same.
That rod is sold for early and late models with the same length rod, but the earlier models didn't have the slots in the slave to accommodate the pin, so it's just a simple matter of knocking the pin out if your slave is slot-less.
However if you have an Oberon slave, it should have the anti-rotation slots in it already, so you can keep the pin and and enjoy the benefits of a non-spinning rod.

If you are using the small spacer piece that comes with the Oberon, remove it for the pinned rod.

I would advise changing the bearing in the pressure plate at the same time and also check the condition and fit in the bearing, of the top hat that the pushrod fits into. It should have an O-ring in it, which gives a bit of resistance when you push the rod in, and also when you try and pull it out.
I always lube the inside of the top hat with Moly-grease, but beware of the Moly-worm escaping from the tiny hole in the end, as you don't want moly-grease on your plates.

Edit.... The pin must go in the slave end. The pinned rod can only be fitted from the slave end, so removal of the slave is essential to install.

[Mr Gazza]

Your Oberon slave should have anti-rotation slots like those in the drawing.That's where the pin fits.
If it is a very early one it might not have.

https://i.postimg.cc/yd63QLy4/oberon-slots.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[CarloL]

Great thanks, it must have the spacer in the Slave

What are the benefits of a not rotating rod?

[Mr Gazza]

Yeah, the spacer can catch you out. They can sometimes be aa bit reluctant to come out. I think it was the oracle Luddite who gave me the tip of tapping the slave on something firm to pop it out.

I think the idea of stopping the rod from spinning is to remove any chance of the piston spinning in the slave, which can't be very good for the seals. I have a theory that the piston spinning is the reason for the clutch fluid always turning black in pretty short order. However my fluid still turned black after I fitted an anti-rotation rod... I hope you have better luck.

[CarloL]

Thanks

I had the issue with Clutch Fluid going black after 2 laps on track , started using Motul RBF 600; full track day still clear , use it in the monster and 748

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks for the tip. I'll give some of that a try. I am starting the Winter deep clean and service next weekend.

[jerry]

Im having problem with my oberon overhaul kit for my S4 ,, the original oberon slave was made for no pin push rod , but the overhaul kit has slots for pin and its not compatible with the original oberon kit

im going to have to return it all to oberon to sort out ??????

[Mr Gazza]

I bought some Motul RBF600 fluid shortly after CarloL suggested it.

So this evening I managed to get round to putting it in the bike.

I'm very particular when I handle brake fluid and I have an old shower curtain that I carefully arrange around the reservoir to cover everything that could possibly be splashed. It looks a bit like a patient on an operating table with only the reservoir exposed!

Flushing new fluid through is fairly straightforward with the squeeze, nip and release method. Always a piece of tube off the nipple going into a container on the floor too.

All going well and the reservoir going clear very quickly. Then I noticed what looked like a black washer in the bottom of the reservoir. I thought I would give it a prod with a (clean) piece of wire and sure enough it was black sediment. So all fluid changing is doomed to pick up this muck left behind!!
I agitated as much as possible and flushed it down with more clean fluid. I allowed the level to fall nearly to the bottom and then carefully wiped out the remainder with a paper towel, turning my glove inside out over the towel and straight into the bin... (yeah obsessive, I know!).
A few top ups and pumps soon had nice clean fluid coming out of the bleed pipe and I'm now confident that I have as clean a system as possible without a strip.

We will now wait and see how long it stays clear!

I'm just wondering if the sediment left in the reservoir is the reason that the fluid always turns black so quickly after a change?
I've changed the fluid a few times, but never wiped the res' out, come to think of it I've never noticed the sediment until now because it forms such a neat ring in the bottom, it just looks like it's something that's meant to be there.

Just passing this on in case anyone else is missing the blatantly obvious, like me!.. Hope it helps.

[Darren69]

I usually empty the reservoir first, give it a good clean out then fill with fresh. No so easy if you don't have remote reservoirs I suppose. Its usually only the clutch one that has the black sediment but it doesn't hurt to do the brake one the same. Then you've only got the old stuff in the lines to bleed out.

[Dukedesmo]

I've said this before but as we know, most Ducatis turn the clutch fluid black in short order, my 916 did with the OEM slave and the Monster does with an Oberon.

However I have an Evoluzione slave on the 916, been fitted for 15+ years and the fluid doesn't turn black between changes - the current fluid is at least 4 - 5,000 miles old and still the same colour as the brake fluid, whereas on the Monster (Oberon) I changed the fluid only 1,000 miles ago and it is already quite dark.

I'm confident that neither is spinning it's clutch rod, I wonder if it's to do with chain lube getting past the seals?

[iainw]

You'll also find a lot of the black sediment lurking in the slave cylinder. When flushing the old stuff out the new just seems to come down the line and out the bleed nipple and bypass what is sitting in the slave. The slave has to come off and be properly flushed.

[Mr Gazza]

I can't believe that I've admitted to not wiping my bottom properly and having such a dirty ring!

Disappointed to learn that the black silt lives on in the slave after a bleed.
The silt is so very fine and easily mixes into the fluid in a cloud with a little agitation, hence why it turns the res' black in a short while with the jiggling of the pot on the flexible handlebar mount.. Like some sort of mini cocktail shaker.

I'm just wondering if taking the slave off the cases and giving it a good shake, maybe even bleeding it upside down with the nipple at the bottom, would help clear any sludge trapped in there?

As for chain goo getting past the seals... I doubt it as brake fluid is so much thinner than chain lube, surely it would leak out before chain lube leaked in. besides which the fluid is under positive pressure most of the time and hardly, if ever in negative pressure.
The slave is fairly well shielded from the chain fling by a case saver on mine.

[CarloL]

Just do a few flushes over the next month Gazza

Should get rid of all the sediment

My Monster is 97, when I git the bike, the coffins where a little dirty, cleaned out with a tissue, but I did put on a braided line, so far fluid is clear

The 748s, I have new rcs17 clutch master, rcs19 brake master, new braided lines, new brembo reservoirs, new oberon slave, normal, low boiling point fuild was black as can be after 3 laps, I swapped out for the motul rbf600, full track day, all clear

I normally change after a track day but since my last was just before winter I left it, took the bike out today, fluid is still all clear, I also run those tygon clear lines from reservoir to master, you can keep an eye on the fluid color