M750 chain adjustment help please

[Billbo]

Had to do this twice in 400 miles, seems excessive? Also from the pic below the adjustment indicator doesn’t grip the underside of the swinger so when I tighten it, it moves and scratches the paint. Am I doing anything wrong?
https://s6.postimg.cc/j96wpvxal/7265_D436-08_A3-4906-80_A2-774_E054797_E6.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/j96wpvxal/)
https://s6.postimg.cc/reoyo1dtp/E1459463-_F0_E2-4820-_A313-3_E8730_D62646.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/reoyo1dtp/)

[Mr Gazza]

Unfortunately the standard steel axle plates do that for some unknown reason.
You need to take them off and beat them back flat again. (Retaining the hooked parts though!)

You can get fancy alloy ones in anodised Gold, but they are heavier than the steel ones and thicker too, so the nuts don't go on the thread so far... Disappointed with mine but the Gold matches that on the end plates, So..

You need 30mm slack in the middle of the bottom chain run. That is measured from the top of the chain when pushed up, to the bottom when pulled down. In other words the chain can move up and down in a 30mm space.

Once you tighten up the axle nuts, just give the adjuster nuts a nip to ensure the end plates don't come loose.

If it's come out of adjustment in 400 miles maybe you had it too tight and it's stretched?
Or possibly not nipped up the axle enough and it's slipped?

Rapid wear is often due to a knackered chain, but you seem to be well forward with the adjustment, so maybe not that.

What lube do you use? It looks a bit on the dry side.

[Billbo]

Beat them flat twice now, looks like I’ll need the thicker ones....I do tend to run it a bit tight as I once had a chain jump a sprocket....ps do I loosen both sides; manual said one side I thought although it seemed to become loose both sides just undoing the right side?

[chris.p]

Beat them flat twice now, looks like I’ll need the thicker ones....I do tend to run it a bit tight as I once had a chain jump a sprocket....ps do I loosen both sides; manual said one side I thought although it seemed to become loose both sides just undoing the right side?

Would always run a chain slightly slack rather than tight, as you can easly stretch your chain and or knacker your drive shaft output bearing as happened to me many, many years ago.:banghead:

[Billbo]

Or maybe I could just do without the brackets altogether? Just measure from the swinger end to the nut each side instead?

[Nickj]

Too tight is bad, wear on the bearings, the output shaft spline wears faster and the sprocket does too.
Look in a DIY shop for thin plastic pads used in leveling for kitchen tops etc, cut a chunk of the right thickness that fits between the underside tabs. That will take out the slack in it,
Even the aftermarket stainless axle plates tend to be a loose fit.
Other than acting as an oversize washer the plates don't do anything that a big washer doesn't other than cover most of the slot in the swinging arm to keep the worst of the crud out.

[Darren69]

The billet alloy plates are worth getting, besides looking very nice, they fit much better, don't distort and make alignment more accurate.

The only example picture I have of mine doesn't show the whole thing:-

https://s25.postimg.cc/3oovot6db/SAM_0724_zpsb40a1bef.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Miky]

Where do you get them beauty’s from?

[Darren69]

MVS Performance, the websites down at the moment. There is a contact email there though.

https://www.mvs-performance.de/

They list them on ebay from too but there's none at the moment.