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View Full Version : 1200 brake fluid..... What to buy?


davkyt
26-03-2018, 05:06 PM
My rear brake does absolutely f all..... What fluid do I need? Do I just need a generic 4 dot fluid or does it need to be the same as what's already in there?

Luddite
26-03-2018, 05:36 PM
I use this Motul DOT 3&4.

https://s19.postimg.org/afe5xnv0j/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 can be mixed without problems. DOT 5 however is silicone based and cannot be mixed with any of the other three fluids. It's coloured purple to ensure it isn't added in error.

I think your rear brake is a similar arrangement to my 1100 Evo with an underslung caliper so, if the brake nipple is at the bottom of the caliper, then you're probably going to have to remove and flip it if you want to bleed it fully.

https://s19.postimg.org/mhy61p343/WP_20180204_14_48_12_Pro.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/jnv0o90xr/)

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showpost.php?p=552311&postcount=12

Stinger101
26-03-2018, 07:59 PM
You don't mention pedal travel but I had an issue on mine where the travel became longer and longer until zero braking effect at all. It was nothing to do with the fluid. Your issue may be entirely different of course. This cured mine to better than new. It never faded again.

davkyt
26-03-2018, 09:08 PM
The pedal moves 3ish inches before any braking...
Only the last inch does anything, and then it doesn't do much....
What was your probably fix?

You don't mention pedal travel but I had an issue on mine where the travel became longer and longer until zero braking effect at all. It was nothing to do with the fluid. Your issue may be entirely different of course. This cured mine to better than new. It never faded again.

davkyt
26-03-2018, 09:11 PM
Thanks...
I've not got a rear stand for it yet.... Absolute ball ache cleaning the chain today...
I use this Motul DOT 3&4.

https://s19.postimg.org/afe5xnv0j/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 can be mixed without problems. DOT 5 however is silicone based and cannot be mixed with any of the other three fluids. It's coloured purple to ensure it isn't added in error.

I think your rear brake is a similar arrangement to my 1100 Evo with an underslung caliper so, if the brake nipple is at the bottom of the caliper, then you're probably going to have to remove and flip it if you want to bleed it fully.

https://s19.postimg.org/mhy61p343/WP_20180204_14_48_12_Pro.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/jnv0o90xr/)

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showpost.php?p=552311&postcount=12

Stinger101
26-03-2018, 09:21 PM
The pedal moves 3ish inches before any braking...
Only the last inch does anything, and then it doesn't do much....
What was your probably fix?

That sounds exactly like my symptoms. The brake should apply with 10mm of travel. It did after I had it adjusted. It became immediate and very effective. It was crap from new so perhaps the factory don't bother checking these things.....

Pedro
26-03-2018, 09:30 PM
The pedal moves 3ish inches before any braking...
Only the last inch does anything, and then it doesn't do much....
What was your probably fix?

That’s huge amount of travel, mine on the 12R moves an inch at most. That def needs bleeding, mine needed the same when it was about 4 months old, Moto Rapido did it under warranty as the abs system apparently complicates it!

davkyt
26-03-2018, 09:43 PM
I've looked in the manual about adjustment but it's already at its highest setting...
And the piston thing sys it need a 1mm of travel before it moves... Which it does so u can't adjust that... All I can think is air in the system or a faulty caliper..

That sounds exactly like my symptoms. The brake should apply with 10mm of travel. It did after I had it adjusted. It became immediate and very effective. It was crap from new so perhaps the factory don't bother checking these things.....

davkyt
26-03-2018, 09:49 PM
I don't know how the previous owner out up with it... The rear brake isn't useful in any situation... I've had to retrain my brain to always use the front instead.
I'll pop to motormania down the road tomorrow to see if they have the fluid I might need. I've got a bit of fish tank tube that might fit the nipple thing.... I've not bled the brakes before..

That’s huge amount of travel, mine on the 12R moves an inch at most. That def needs bleeding, mine needed the same when it was about 4 months old, Moto Rapido did it under warranty as the abs system apparently complicates it!

Mr Gazza
26-03-2018, 09:50 PM
You do need to be very careful not to adjust out too much freeplay on the earlier Monsters. Not sure if that would also be the case on the current models?

I carefully removed nearly all the freeplay out of my M900ie brake lever for the very first ride out. I learned the hard way that it needs a good gap, or else the brake slowly binds up and locks the back wheel. Frustrating for me a few miles from home on back lanes, but not so funny for those who had this happen on the Motorway!!

Darren69
26-03-2018, 09:59 PM
Rear brake needs to be bled upside down on most Ducati models, if the 1200 is the same. Its crap anyway when bled but should hold the bike on hills etc. but should lock the wheel easily.

davkyt
26-03-2018, 10:06 PM
You mean upside down like Luddites pic. ? 👆

I dont even know how to get the wheel off or adjust the bloody chain on this one yet...



Rear brake needs to be bled upside down on most Ducati models, if the 1200 is the same. Its crap anyway when bled but should hold the bike on hills etc. but should lock the wheel easily.

Luddite
26-03-2018, 10:28 PM
I'll pop to motormania down the road tomorrow to see if they have the fluid I might need. I've got a bit of fish tank tube that might fit the nipple thing.... I've not bled the brakes before..

If you've got to go out for fluid anyway, I'd recommend picking up a bleed hose, possibly with a one-way valve. They're under a fiver and the last thing you want is for an ill-fitting hose to pop off and spray corrosive brake fluid everywhere.

Having said that, if you don't think you can remove the caliper without a paddock stand, don't bother even trying to bleed it as you're unlikely to be able to remove the air with the bleed nipple on the bottom of the caliper.

Luddite
26-03-2018, 10:39 PM
You mean upside down like Luddites pic. ? ��

Yep - that's the only way I know how to get all the air out. If you look at Capo's blingy caliper, you can see by the position of that bleed nipple that it was designed to be underslung:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=56204

https://s19.postimg.org/48byosbeb/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Alternatively, a vacuum bleeder or forcing the fluid in through the bleed nipple may work but I haven't tried either.

buzzbomb
26-03-2018, 10:53 PM
Be very careful about removing the free play out of the back brake, I've recovered a couple of bikes in the past that their owner had done just that and the consequences are not pretty..
As far as I know to successfully bleed the rear calliper its best to be removed and held as high as the hose will allow not forgetting to install some thing between the pads to stop them popping out.

Martin Duke
27-03-2018, 10:25 AM
You do need to be very careful not to adjust out too much freeplay on the earlier Monsters. Not sure if that would also be the case on the current models?

I carefully removed nearly all the freeplay out of my M900ie brake lever for the very first ride out. I learned the hard way that it needs a good gap, or else the brake slowly binds up and locks the back wheel. Frustrating for me a few miles from home on back lanes, but not so funny for those who had this happen on the Motorway!!


Absolutely agree with this - I made the same mistake on my Cagiva Raptor once, believe me, when the back wheel locks up of its own accord it isn't very funny!

I was lucky and just had to wait for the disc and pads to stop sizzling before they freed up enough to get home and sort it out. What is important and worth getting right is the lever
position, this can make all the difference to the rear brake operation - get it right and the improvement is really noticeable.

Martin :gromit:

slob
27-03-2018, 11:32 AM
When you’ve finished, I’d recommend getting rid of any left over fluid (your local council should have a suitable facility to do this safely) as it’s hygroscopic (absorbs moisture from the atmosphere) and water boils at a much lower temperature than DOTx, causing vapour lock. An open bottle of brake fluid in your shed becomes a liability after a few months.

davkyt
05-04-2018, 07:55 PM
I've still not acquired a rear stand or socket to get the wheel off.... Garage is fully booked for a month....
... Really need the rear brake sorting.... It's not enjoyable at all having only the front brake to rely on... Especially with all the stones on the road at the min... I ended up aborting my ride tonight and going home..