Rear wheel removal tool

[Dave62]

Can anyone tell me where to get a rear wheel removal socket for my 1200.

Dave

[Rally]

Halfords do individual sockets, I got mine from them for the 1100s etc. From memory it's a 46mm, but I can check if you like?
I assume the 1200 is just a standard 6 sided hexagon nut?

[Ron1000]

Yeah i got one for my evo from ebay molybdenum to use with impact gun. Double check size and sides…something in my mind is saying they are different on the 12’s

[Luddite]

Ron is correct; the 1200 has a different sized nut from the 1100. I think it's 55mm.

Whatever the size, it will be very tight (the 1100's is 176Nm) so I wouldn't be tempted to buy the cheapest example. Like Ron, I'd go for a chrome molybdenum (Cr-Mo) socket, which gives you the option of using an impact wrench.

You can also get combined 2-in-1 front/rear wheel nut sockets, which are handy.

[Doggy]

Buy cheap, buy twice!. As I found out trying to remove my MV wheel for the first time, it's done upto 220-240Nm. It broke the cheap one, just like that . Spent serious money on a decent one and it's been used and abused loads and still as good as new .

[Ron1000]

Ron is correct; the 1200 has a different sized nut from the 1100. I think it's 55mm.

Whatever the size, it will be very tight (the 1100's is 176Nm) so I wouldn't be tempted to buy the cheapest example. Like Ron, I'd go for a chrome molybdenum (Cr-Mo) socket, which gives you the option of using an impact wrench.

You can also get combined 2-in-1 front/rear wheel nut sockets, which are handy.

Holy moly, I’m actually right about something…that’s my 2018 highlight…roll on 2019.

[Dukedesmo]

If the wheelnut is anything like the older SSSA bikes (916 etc.) then it is likely to be a very thin nut that requires a lot of torque.

My 916 is like this and a standard 46mm socket has a rounded/bevelled edge to guide it on to the nut easier, trouble is the bevel is about half the width of the nut and so you get very little purchase onto the nut, meaning the socket easily slips and rounds off the edges of the nut.

I bought a standard 46mm socket and had this problem, so I got the end of the socket turned down so that it has a square edge and this is far better.

I don't know if you can find a 'square' edged socket, if so it's likely a Ducati specific tool with a Ducati specific price? ...

[Luddite]

Holy moly, I’m actually right about something…that’s my 2018 highlight…roll on 2019.

Of course you're right, Ron, you're an 1100 Evo owner!

If your front wheel nut is 30mm, Dave, then this might do you:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-1200S-Multistrada-2017-Impact-Wheel-Socket-55mm-30mm-Bi-Hex-12-Point-/182810312511

https://s19.postimg.org/xfaadyzpf/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

It's specifically made for the slim wheel nuts so should avoid the possible slipping problem with standard sockets that Dukedesmo mentions.

[Dave62]

Brilliant lads thanks for all the help.

[Dukedesmo]

Ron is correct; the 1200 has a different sized nut from the 1100. I think it's 55mm.



There are 2 sizes; the original was first used on the 916 and has a 46mm nut. When they introduced the 1098 they used a larger axle with the 55mm nut (presumably to better handle the bigger power?) oddly the, otherwise almost, identical 848 still used the smaller axle so whilst front wheels are interchangeable, rears are not.

Large axles are used on the bigger engined bikes, I'm not certain exactly which bikes use them but they are easily identified without measuring/comparing as the sprocket carrier has 6 fixing bolts rather than 5 as on the small axle.

[utopia]

Those ultra-high torques always give me the willies.
I haven't had a close look (or any look at all tbh) at the nut in question, but ... if the spindle is suitably hollow ....
I'm wondering if its possible to get a socket which has a central guide spigot to locate in the hollow bore and prevent the socket from twisting off the hex ....?
Just a thought, but if you're buying one anyway it might be worth a trawl around.

[buzzbomb]

Chris at desmoworld.de sells that type of socket Jeff, I've had mine for years without any problem.

[Pedro]

Forget using a breaker bar, get an impact gun

[Dave62]

Really appreciate all this info I was going to give it a go with a breaker bar but after reading the above I will be on the look out for an impactor.

[bigredduke]

Be careful to take note of the maximum torque rating for some of the cheaper cordless impact drivers, they are often well below what you will need!

[350TSS]

Clarke/Machine Mart do a mains electric one for about 60 to 65 sobs which was the only thing that would shift my crankshaft pinion nut. Just be careful using it that the trigger is the right way or else you have an even bigger problem. Worth waiting for a VAT free day and also getting some deep impact sockets because it will shred cheaper non impact ones

[Luddite]

I have a 24v cordless Clarke model that I got from Machine Mart. It was about £80 during one of their VAT-free promotions but unfortunately is no longer available. It's rated at 220Nm and makes short work of the rear wheel nut (176Nm).

The nearest equivalents at Machine Mart now are this 18v 220Nm cordless at £80 (PLUS battery & charger though)

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/kielder-kwt-002-16-38-drive-18v-brushless-impa/

or this corded 450Nm model at £72.

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cew1000-electric-impact-wrench/

You should only use chrome molybdenum sockets (the black ones) with an impact driver as the regular chrome vanadium ones can shatter under the repeated impacts of the driver.

The other benefit of using an impact wrench is that you don't need to lock the wheel to undo the nut like you would with a breaker bar; you just steady it with your hand while the wrench does the work. The torque is transferred directly to the wheel nut and doesn't really try to spin the wheel.

It's important to ensure the wheel nut is fully torqued-up when it's replaced. If you don't have a suitable torque wrench, make adjacent punch marks on the nut and the edge of the spindle. Then, when you replace the nut, just align the two marks.

That assumes that the nut was torqued-up correctly before you undid it, of course. For peace of mind, after the first time you remove the wheel, I'd recommend you use a torque wrench (your friendly dealer?) to check the tightness.

Finally, make sure you lube the threads and the base of the nut with molybdenum grease, otherwise the torque reading will be wrong.

[Dukedesmo]

Finally, make sure you lube the threads and the base of the nut with molybdenum grease, otherwise the torque reading will be wrong.

Plus, you might not get it off so easily next time...

[Dave62]

My lad lent a snap on one last year and I was really impressed how much guts it had.

[Mr Gazza]

I bought one of these and it won't even pull the skin off a rice pudding!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerful-1-2-Half-Inch-Drive-Air-Impact-Wrench-Gun-Ratchet-Compressor-Tool/221767299481?hash=item33a25c7199:g:a00AAOSw0vBUiiC I

What numbers do I need to look for to get something that will get my clutch nut off?

[Luddite]

I bought one of these and it won't even pull the skin off a rice pudding!!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Powerful-1-2-Half-Inch-Drive-Air-Impact-Wrench-Gun-Ratchet-Compressor-Tool/221767299481?hash=item33a25c7199:g:a00AAOSw0vBUiiC I

What numbers do I need to look for to get something that will get my clutch nut off?

Clutch nuts are in the region of 190Nm so that one you bought (310Nm) should have done the job. As it's an air wrench, could your compressor be the limiting factor?

That corded Clarke one I mentioned above is rated at 450Nm so should be more than up to the job.

[Dukedesmo]

Some of the air wrenches are definitely not up to their claims.

I bought one that gets nowhere near shifting clutch, flywheel or SSSA rear wheel so I bought another claiming 500nm + and whilst it gets the job done I'm dubious of the claims and I do have a suitable compressor.

[Mr Gazza]

, could your compressor be the limiting factor?

I did wonder if there was not enough wind there.
My little compressor can pump 9.5cfm, but I run the wrench off the unregulated air @ 115psi. The compressor cuts in very soon after I pull the trigger and can't keep up, if I hold it.
So I'm guessing there is not enough volume there? Not much point me looking at other wrenches if the compressor is not good enough suppose.
It says 90psi on the box, but no sure what that means, precious little info supplied. I just assumed 115psi would do the trick.

[Pedro]

I did wonder if there was not enough wind there.
My little compressor can pump 9.5cfm, but I run the wrench off the unregulated air @ 115psi. The compressor cuts in very soon after I pull the trigger and can't keep up, if I hold it.
So I'm guessing there is not enough volume there? Not much point me looking at other wrenches if the compressor is not good enough suppose.
It says 90psi on the box, but no sure what that means, precious little info supplied. I just assumed 115psi would do the trick.

Its not the pressure that’s the issue it’s the flow rate, the cfm

[Mr Gazza]

Sure the compressor is only 9.5cfm, but I would have thought that as much as needed would flow out of the tank until exhausted. Granted it will only pump it back in at 9.5cfm.

It's soon out of air though with only a 50L tank.
Do you think it would work better with my auxiliary tank hooked up (about 75L I think) and a bigger bore hose? I have a 10mm id hose now.

I know it would take a while to fill, but I might get a hard enough initial blast for the gun to knock the nut off?

[Mossleymonster]

I'd love any sort of hard initial blast. Must be my age.

[DynoMan]

I bought an electric impact wrench off eBay and it does a great job on those spindle and hub nuts.

[Capo]

I've got a Sealey supposed to be 350nm but it wont shift the rear wheel nut. In fact it wont even undo the wheel nuts on the car.

[Rally]

When I got a puncture in Belgium, the guy who repaired it showed me a very clever trick how to get it off;
All he did was whilst on a centre stand, he put the socket on the nut (after removing the lock wire) with a long bar resting on the ground, he started the bike, put it in first gear and released the clutch at tickover, it came undone with ease.
Then when refitting it, he set the torque wrench, put it on the nut again with the wrench facing forwards and onto the floor and then grabbed the new tyre and spoke of the wheel and pulled hard until it clicked. He claimed it was easier than doing it via the wheel than by pulling on the wrench whilst trying to hold the brake on!
I've not tried it myself, but that day he made it look very easy indeed.

[Joshua Brew]

Hi, does anyone know of any 46mm replacement wheel nut? Also is there a combi socket available? 46/41 1100 evo

[Luddite]

Hi, does anyone know of any 46mm replacement wheel nut? Also is there a combi socket available? 46/41 1100 evo

You can get a combined 41/46mm socket for £31 from here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bikeservice-Tools-Ducati-Rear-Wheel-41mm-46mm-Wheel-Lock-Nut-Socket-/112572312773

https://s19.postimg.org/mtm5f138z/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

A replacement titanium wheel nut for £38 can be had here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titanium-Rear-Wheel-Axle-Nut-Triumph-Speed-Triple-Daytona-Sprint-ST-RS-M38x1-5mm-/221550013684

https://s19.postimg.org/7kw81c9lf/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Anodised billet nuts are also available, (from Avant Racing for example), but, with the high torque, I personally wouldn't trust aluminium.

[Capo]

You can get a combined 41/46mm socket for £31 from here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bikeservice-Tools-Ducati-Rear-Wheel-41mm-46mm-Wheel-Lock-Nut-Socket-/112572312773

https://s19.postimg.org/mtm5f138z/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

A replacement titanium wheel nut for £38 can be had here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Titanium-Rear-Wheel-Axle-Nut-Triumph-Speed-Triple-Daytona-Sprint-ST-RS-M38x1-5mm-/221550013684

https://s19.postimg.org/7kw81c9lf/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Anodised billet nuts are also available, (from Avant Racing for example), but, with the high torque, I personally wouldn't trust aluminium.

I am seeking a 12 point version

[Joshua Brew]

Thanks luddite! You the man!

[Luddite]

I am seeking a 12 point version

Amazon used to stock the Heartland 12 pointer but don't seem to have them at the moment.

https://s19.postimg.org/f8xd83gg3/C_Data_Users_Def_Apps_App_Data_INTERNETEXPLORER_Te mp_Saved_Images.jpg (https://postimg.org/image/97zob0ttr/)

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ducati-46mm-41mm-Rear-Socket/dp/B005CW9TWG

They're available from the States but postage is probably prohibitive.

http://www.heartlandproducts.net/ducati-steel-46-41mm-rear-axle-nut-socket-tool-nut/