Another one from Norfolk

[goodeye]

Hi, i wanted to create a new thread as i kinda hijacked someone else’s, (sorry about that)!
so i have had a Yamaha FZ6 for the last 4 years which has been great but was staring to find it a little boring. its been bullet proof, barely cost me anything in services and has done everything ive ever asked of it. The time came for a change and had lots of ideas about the next bike. I toyed with the idea of a 1250 bandit, and a speed triple but was put off by the weight of the bandit and the price of the triumph. My wife is a big fan of the monster and said I should do test ride one, well I was hooked from then! The only thing was the concern about reliability, and the service cost.

Anyway the hunt was on and I found what I thought was a good deal from a fellow forum member. Last weekend I went down to take a look at the bike and it was good and decided to buy it. A 59 plate 696 with 6000 miles on the clock, belly pan, R&G bungs, and a set of carbon Termi pipes!

Rode the bike home (200 or so miles) and it was great, still got to get to grips with the twin and it being very different to my old FZ6 but really enjoyed the ride. I was a little apprehensive about the little bike doing 200 motorway miles but it cruised and ‘motorway speeds’ just fine.

Only thing I think it needs is a good clean and a service – yep belts need doing

I was going to ask – how does everyone else keep the engine clean? Ive noticed there is already some corrosion on the cases and the fins which I would like to stop or limit getting any worse. Any tips or advice? Also I was wondering where people get their bikes serviced?

[Grumpy]

For servicing I would use Karl Harrison over in Charleston. He is an independent servicing centre with an excellent reputation.

[Mr Gazza]

Poor Grumpy, he doesn't know the proper lyrics to Hotel California either.. :chuckle:

It's Carl Harrison at Harleston 01379 852020

For parts, Moto Rapido in Winchester is always my first choice 01962 877998. (then dial 1 for parts.)
They usually have the parts to you the next day, unless it has to come from Italy or elsewhere, in which case it is usually within the week... Excellent establishment and 10% discount as well if you mention that you are in UKMOC.

You could try Seastar at Newton Flotman if you like, but I've never bothered with them. I heard that they send the tricky jobs to Carl Harrison anyway!!

Get those belts changed asap, unless you know for absolute certain that they were changed within the last two years... Do it yourself, it's a piece of cake.

I personally wouldn't have ridden it home without a guarantee that they were fresh.
I looked very seriously at a 750SS earlier in the year, my plan was to buy a couple of belts for it and change them there before the ride home ( about 150 miles). I dithered and missed a bargain.!

Best of luck with your new bike.. :biggrin: See you soon.

[Dirty]

Get the belts done for piece of mind but then change them according to usage/mileage etc. Some people are religious about the 2 year thing but if you've done less than 2k miles in that time and they have been in regularish use (non use leaves a kink in them) are looking fresh then 3, 4 years is no issue.

Diligent cleaning after every ride is probably the answer to the engine question. It's a rare duke that doesn't have a bit of corrosion there

[Mr Gazza]

I find that a little petrol in a take-away tub and an old 1/2" paintbrush works very well on the engine cases, covers and finned areas.
Put a bit of newspaper down under the engine first, and just work from the top down, mopping up the dirty petrol with a rag as you go.
A solvent de-greaser like Gunk or Jizer (if you can still get them?) is probably a bit more pc these days and you don't need to wipe it off as you go. Just rinse off with water when you have brushed and agitated it all over.

Once a year for a good engine clean down should be all you need

Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer on any part of your bike.. It's just a disaster.

For the areas starting to show signs of paint loss and white corrosion, a squirt and wipe with WD40 or some such will stop it going any further and take away the whiteness that makes it look so bad. Waxoyl is good too... Just a dab where it's needed.

[J.P]

Welcome to the forum and ownership.
Firstly, give the bike a good wash. Then get yourself some 'ACF50' or 'F365' and give the engine a good coating. The ACF50 is probably the better product of the two.

It acts as a protective and neutralizing coating to stop the corrosion.
I've used it for years

[Darren69]

I find that a little petrol in a take-away tub and an old 1/2" paintbrush works very well on the engine cases, covers and finned areas.
Put a bit of newspaper down under the engine first, and just work from the top down, mopping up the dirty petrol with a rag as you go.
A solvent de-greaser like Gunk or Jizer (if you can still get them?) is probably a bit more pc these days and you don't need to wipe it off as you go. Just rinse off with water when you have brushed and agitated it all over.

Once a year for a good engine clean down should be all you need

Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer on any part of your bike.. It's just a disaster.

For the areas starting to show signs of paint loss and white corrosion, a squirt and wipe with WD40 or some such will stop it going any further and take away the whiteness that makes it look so bad. Waxoyl is good too... Just a dab where it's needed.

I think you can still get 'Gunk' from Halfords and the like, they sell it in an aerosol and I would say its probably better and safer than sloshing petrol everywhere and it won't damage paint, WD40 is also good, Iv'e yet to try ACF50 but lots on here swear by it. WD40 is similar, just make sure not to spray in on brake disks and calipers.

And to re-iterate what Gazza said regarding pressure washing, just don't do it. Use it for cleaning your patio or car but not the bike. Jap bikes and BM's seem to be ok as I used to do my winter hacks with one, but Ducati don't like it and you will soon have electrical problems once you get water in there that won't dry out.

[Jez900ie]

I think you can still get 'Gunk' from Halfords and the like, they sell it in an aerosol and I would say its probably better and safer than sloshing petrol everywhere and it won't damage paint, WD40 is also good, Iv'e yet to try ACF50 but lots on here swear by it. WD40 is similar, just make sure not to spray in on brake disks and calipers.

And to re-iterate what Gazza said regarding pressure washing, just don't do it. Use it for cleaning your patio or car but not the bike. Jap bikes and BM's seem to be ok as I used to do my winter hacks with one, but Ducati don't like it and you will soon have electrical problems once you get water in there that won't dry out.

WD40 is 50% solvent, which is good for siezed bolts etc, but not so great for protection. the solvents can damage electrical wire coatings, making them brittle. Ask anyone who has sprayed it onto outboard engines... I prefer Corrosion X. Its not cheap, but it does protect and it has zero solvents. Buy it on Amazon or ebay. They have a really funny advert clip where they show a radio controlled helicopter dropped deliberately into a bucket of water, then flown back out a few minutes later!

Halfrauds sell Gunk. Doesn't everyone use Gunk? Didn't Ogri drink it for breakfast?

[goodeye]

thanks guys really good advice and i will do a trip to the local halfords asap to pick up a few new tins of stuff!

regarding general maintenance you will be pleased to know the bike is booked in with Carl next week for a comprehensive service including belts, clearances and all the other stuff. To limit the miles on the belts im also having it collected so should be all good and ready to ride when its back. Will then do the full clean and engine detail so its fit for the summer. If I can still afford to put fuel in it!

[goodeye]

I find that a little petrol in a take-away tub and an old 1/2" paintbrush works very well on the engine cases, covers and finned areas.
Put a bit of newspaper down under the engine first, and just work from the top down, mopping up the dirty petrol with a rag as you go.
A solvent de-greaser like Gunk or Jizer (if you can still get them?) is probably a bit more pc these days and you don't need to wipe it off as you go. Just rinse off with water when you have brushed and agitated it all over.

Once a year for a good engine clean down should be all you need

Don't be tempted to use a pressure washer on any part of your bike.. It's just a disaster.

For the areas starting to show signs of paint loss and white corrosion, a squirt and wipe with WD40 or some such will stop it going any further and take away the whiteness that makes it look so bad. Waxoyl is good too... Just a dab where it's needed.

Will that do it? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swarfega-Jizer-500ml-Aerosol-Spray-Degreaser-SJZ500ML-Deb-/261771853604?hash=item3cf2d17f24:g:S9wAAOSwNSxU2oo T

you say spray it on, give it a rub and then wash it off with water? would that not wash it off and mean the fins will corrode more?

[Darren69]

WD40 is 50% solvent, which is good for siezed bolts etc, but not so great for protection. the solvents can damage electrical wire coatings, making them brittle. Ask anyone who has sprayed it onto outboard engines... I prefer Corrosion X. Its not cheap, but it does protect and it has zero solvents. Buy it on Amazon or ebay. They have a really funny advert clip where they show a radio controlled helicopter dropped deliberately into a bucket of water, then flown back out a few minutes later!

Halfrauds sell Gunk. Doesn't everyone use Gunk? Didn't Ogri drink it for breakfast?

Yea, I'e heard its good on cornflakes too but since I don't like cornflakes it may be ok neat?
:0 WD is good for metal but not so good on rubber, i've not had any problems personally but it wilmayl soften and dissolve some rubber as it it's petroleum based.

[Mr Gazza]

Will that do it? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swarfega-Jizer-500ml-Aerosol-Spray-Degreaser-SJZ500ML-Deb-/261771853604?hash=item3cf2d17f24:g:S9wAAOSwNSxU2oo T

you say spray it on, give it a rub and then wash it off with water? would that not wash it off and mean the fins will corrode more?

I couldn't really comment as I was always more of a Gunk man and I haven't even used any of that for many tens of years.
If I remember correctly, you are supposed to run the engine up after rinsing, to warm it and dry it off. I think it must leave a residue as it will have the distinctive smell of Gunk for days.?

The thing with petrol is that there is always some around and you need very little indeed to clean stuff up spotless.
I used up some old two-stroke mix to clean things once and it had the advantage of leaving a very thin oily film behind... Not particularly good for your skin or lungs though!

I tend to use clutch and brake cleaner more these days, which will lift almost anything off and is safe on rubber and most paints. Trouble is that it evaporates so quickly that it just tends to move the crud along a bit! You have to wipe it immediately or use enough for it to run off with all the muck... Also not brilliant for your skin and lungs.

[Jez900ie]

Will that do it? - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Swarfega-Jizer-500ml-Aerosol-Spray-Degreaser-SJZ500ML-Deb-/261771853604?hash=item3cf2d17f24:g:S9wAAOSwNSxU2oo T

you say spray it on, give it a rub and then wash it off with water? would that not wash it off and mean the fins will corrode more?

The cleaner Gunk (possibly Swarfega stuff) is put on then rinsed off with water. The protection (Corrosion X) is put on afterwards. Like washing the car, then apply the polish.

[goodeye]

I couldn't really comment as I was always more of a Gunk man and I haven't even used any of that for many tens of years.
If I remember correctly, you are supposed to run the engine up after rinsing, to warm it and dry it off. I think it must leave a residue as it will have the distinctive smell of Gunk for days.?

The thing with petrol is that there is always some around and you need very little indeed to clean stuff up spotless.
I used up some old two-stroke mix to clean things once and it had the advantage of leaving a very thin oily film behind... Not particularly good for your skin or lungs though!

I tend to use clutch and brake cleaner more these days, which will lift almost anything off and is safe on rubber and most paints. Trouble is that it evaporates so quickly that it just tends to move the crud along a bit! You have to wipe it immediately or use enough for it to run off with all the muck... Also not brilliant for your skin and lungs.

this more like it then - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Gunk-Degreaser-Ultra-500ml-Trigger-Spray-Powerful-Engine-Bike-Boat-Cleaner-601-/112328539797?hash=item1a274d7e95:g:wl0AAOSwWxNYwHU N

[goodeye]

The cleaner Gunk (possibly Swarfega stuff) is put on then rinsed off with water. The protection (Corrosion X) is put on afterwards. Like washing the car, then apply the polish.

this what you mean? - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CorrosionX-Lubricant-penetrant-prevention-trigger/dp/B00MQZBCIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495657610&sr=8-1&keywords=Corrosion+X

[Jez900ie]

this what you mean? - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CorrosionX-Lubricant-penetrant-prevention-trigger/dp/B00MQZBCIG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495657610&sr=8-1&keywords=Corrosion+X

Yes. Buy all these things in liquid form if you can and put them into hand spray bottles (old window cleaner spray bottles etc) as it is much cheaper. Aerosols are expensive when you compare how much actual product you get.

[utopia]

Bestest, and also cheapest solvent cleaner is paraffin.
Applied with a half inch paintbrush.
Cut the bristles shorter for a stiffer scrub.
Use old toothbrushes for detail scrubbing.
Wipe it off with cheap kitchen roll from the local pound shop @ 4 rolls for a quid.
Its worth putting a holder for these on the shed wall.
Any residue is somewhat oily and leaves residual protection.
And unlike Gunk (which I used every week throughout the 70s) you don't need to wash it off.
The smell isn't too bad either .. though its probably best to wear gloves.

For less mucky areas I like GT85 myself.
Used as above or sprayed onto the kitchen roll and wiped over the surface.
In fact I probably use this more than the paraffin.
It leaves a dirt repellent ptfe coating.
Got my last 3 cans very cheap from Aldi, but they only have it occasionally.

[goodeye]

Am missing 1 tank cover bolt, anyone know where I can get one?

[Luddite]

If it's the small allen screw that holds the panel on (also used on the cover round the fuel cap), you want part no. 77350393B. If it's the one down by you knee, make sure you still have the small, silver aluminium top hat spacer washer (71614081A).

Give Craig and Luke a ring at Moto Rapido 01962 873981 they usually have a few in stock (75p last time I bought one).

The replacement screw will come with threadlock preapplied.

[goodeye]

If it's the small allen screw that holds the panel on (also used on the cover round the fuel cap), you want part no. 77350393B. If it's the one down by you knee, make sure you still have the small, silver aluminium top hat spacer washer (71614081A).

Give Craig and Luke a ring at Moto Rapido 01962 873981 they usually have a few in stock (75p last time I bought one).

The replacement screw will come with threadlock preapplied.

Dude, you are awesome!

[goodeye]

so the bike is off this weekend getting some much needed tlc, new belts, filters, plugs, new rear tire and new brake pads.

the thing is going to cost me a small fortune however it will be ride ready soon and ready for the next season or two.

i think it would be cool to get lots of carbon however i will keep an eye out for a new ecu to go with the pipes and some new rearsets as i dont really like the oem ones.

cant wait to get it back!

[Luddite]

You're in for a treat when you get your bike back on the road, goodeye.

If you're looking for rearsets, check out this thread; there are some Chinese Sato copies that are really cheap...

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=54920

For pointers on what carbon fibre is available and from where, have a look here; most of what I've fitted will also fit your 696.

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=55168

And, as far as a replacement ECU is concerned, I'd recommend instead sending your original to Neil at Cornerspeed (see post #13 in the above thread). It may well be cheaper than sourcing a used DP ECU and the result will, in my opinion, be better.

Enjoy your Evo!

[goodeye]

The bike is back!

Carl dropped it back tonight, they collected it, serviced it and dropped it back (at like 8.30 this evening). I understand why he has such a good reputation.

Bike had a new rear tire, brake pads, full big service as well as a new battery and the shims done. Was expensive but not as much as I feared. Will be eating only tesco value beans for the rest of the month but happy to have the bike back and ready to ride.

Will report after a blast into Cambridge tomorrow, praying for clear skies

[goodeye]

great blast into Cam this morning from Norwich. bike was great and performed perfectly. looking forward to updates when i can afford a few extra bits and pieces. let me know if there are any ride outs etc as it will be good to meet other owners and shoot the breeze.

[Mr Gazza]

Will be eating only tesco value beans for the rest of the month

You should get a bit more power from that? :toilet:

PM me your email address and I will put you on my mailing list of Norfolk UKMOC members. I send out a mail shot whenever there is something happening.

[goodeye]

Ok 2 questions,

1, am looking to get my ecu flashed to match the termi pipes. What kind of gains would I expect from this? Trying to justify the cost.

2, as the monster is air cooled, if you have to do a bit of filtering on a hot day like today the bike gets pretty hot. There is no fan like on a liquid cooled bike to stop it over heating so what do you do? Is it just the case you have to stop by the side of the road and wait for it to cool down if you think its getting too hot?

[Mr Gazza]

You would be surprised how hot they can get and not be too bothered. A water cooled bike will boil up and ring all the alarm bells, but your air cooled jobbie will soldier on.

Probably the worst thing to do is stop.. Sure if you are forced to stop turn off the engine, but the best thing is to keep moving air over the engine.. The more the better.

[utopia]

I've run my 750 in Italy on a couple of occasions, in weather hotter than we're having now.
So hot that stopping anywhere, even for an instant, required a shady spot.
...... its natural habitat ?
I would agree that the heat doesn't seem to be a problem .. as long as you're moving.
I generally kill my engine if I'm expecting a longish wait at traffic lights etc.
Mostly that's to stop overheating, but it also reduces city pollution a micro-tad, and shows a social conscience re. the unbaffled termis.
:)

On a related issue...
When I bought my bike, it had a full bellypan which enveloped the front exhaust header.
The heat retaining effect of this was very noticeable, with great waves of hot air rising up at me whenever I stopped.
A smaller, Monza type which leaves the header exposed is a better bet, I reckon .. as is now fitted.

[gremlin]

We use Scottoiler F365 on our bikes. It can be put on after washing and does a pretty good job at keeping corrosion at bay. Other half swears by it. If you're in Norwich at any time, pop in to ABC Motorcycles for a coffee and a chat. I'm there on Mondays, Wednesdays and Thursdays and alternate Saturdays. This Saturday being one of them. Having said that as of next Friday we'll be away for a couple of weeks as we're off to the home of Monsters for a couple of weeks. Hope you enjoy the bike, they are awesome.