M600 Fork stanchions wanted

[hatchback]

My Marzocchis are overly pitted and I need new stanchions. These are the 40mm diameter (not the 41mm Showas) and I am looking for the stanchions plus the spindle/brake caliper pressings on the ends.

If you have the full set of forks in good condition, either Marzocchi or Showa, then I would like to know how much you are asking for them.

[Wildfire]

I have some later adjustable ST4 forks which may be of use?

[hatchback]

Sorry, my knowledge of the different sizes of forks is pitiful. What are the diameters of the stanchion tubes where they fit into the steering head clamps?

[Dukedesmo]

If it's just the actual 'tubes' that you need you might find new ones are not too expensive, either that or replate the old ones for even less.

Someone like Ktech could supply either...

[Darren69]

Will you be wanting the early bottoms with 17mm axle and 40mm caliper bolt spacing or later 25mm/65mm type?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-600-Monster-95-96-Chrome-Fork-Tube-Stanchion-Leg-Pair/301226800896?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D2%2 6asc%3D40656%26meid%3D062ba02bdd714164a4e790f72918 1d83%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D4007 32849870

[hatchback]

The problem is getting the bottoms off the current stanchions. WEMOTO have the stanchions if I can separate the bottoms and therein lies my current predicament. A man with a vicious press is trying to do this but if who has spare bottoms??
Almost certainly the 17mm axle as it is on an "N" plate.

[Darkness]

The problem is getting the bottoms off the current stanchions. WEMOTO have the stanchions if I can separate the bottoms and therein lies my current predicament. A man with a vicious press is trying to do this but if who has spare bottoms??
Almost certainly the 17mm axle as it is on an "N" plate.

Assuming they are like Showas, don't forget the small Allen screw which locks them on!

Once they're out it's just a matter of overcoming the locking compound and corrosion on the threads" a combination of applied heat, a well bolted down vice with soft jaws and lots of sacking, a couple of mates to sit on it, and a large pair of stilsons with scaffold tube handle extension does the trick.

[Dukedesmo]

The trick is getting them apart without any damage, need to clamp the tube well to stop it being crushed or scratched. However if the tube's are knacked anyway then it doesn't matter as long as the bottoms come away intact.

So, as above heat and a healthy dose of BFI (Brute Force & Ignorance) should separate them.

[Mr Gazza]

The very early AJS & Matchless "Jampot" and also later "Candlestick" rear shocks had a similar sort of thing going on with large aluminium clevises threaded onto the bottom of the steel shock bodies.

Enterprising sorts could remove the clevises from old shocks to put onto nice new ones with the appropriate thread machined on.

I vaguely recall a method that they employed which involved placing the stripped shock in the chuck of a lathe and then engaging the clevis on a dog fixed in some way (to the tool post?).
I think the chuck was then turned by hand to unscrew the clevis. I can't imagine a lathe having enough torque to do it under power... But I'm guessing you don't have access to a lathe anyway.

I think the secret was to get a good solid purchase on the shock and a nice concentric turn.

A really good way to hold circular things, is to bore a hole exactly the same size as, eg your fork stanchion, in a piece of wood or metal. Then slit down the side of the hole... Pretty much replicating the way the yoke clamps the leg.

The bored and slitted block can then be clamped firmly in a good vice and it will not let the stanchion rotate, nor damage it.
The best way to get a good concentric turn that I can think of would be to clamp a 17mm or 25mm tube (which ever applicable) in the axle hole, with equal lengths out of each end and apply equal force to both ends... Probably a hefty bloke on each end?

Heat on the ally end only, is going to help.
The above would also be a good way to re-fit the end onto a new stanchion.

[Dukedesmo]

T



A really good way to hold circular things, is to bore a hole exactly the same size as, eg your fork stanchion, in a piece of wood or metal. Then slit down the side of the hole... Pretty much replicating the way the yoke clamps the leg.



Like this;

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/data/photos/l/4/4781-1413025031-5a15dd06d33a5bb97707dbe231ba880b.jpg

Although this is too small for the forks, it was supplied with an Ohlins bottom yoke for 916 to hold the stem as the 916 yoke is screwed onto the stem.

Anyway holds it perfectly and I know that suspension people use the same kind of blocks for forks.

[hatchback]

Like this;

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/data/photos/l/4/4781-1413025031-5a15dd06d33a5bb97707dbe231ba880b.jpg

Although this is too small for the forks, it was supplied with an Ohlins bottom yoke for 916 to hold the stem as the 916 yoke is screwed onto the stem.

Anyway holds it perfectly and I know that suspension people use the same kind of blocks for forks.

We have made something similar scaled up but the efforts are incredibly high. We ripped the vice of the bench and then passed it on to an engineering company. Both legs have moved about 6mm but then they have stuck. Once more with feeling is the next step.

[hatchback]

First Marzocchis were press fit only - no threads. Brake caliper side (LHS) came apart - RHS smashed to bits. pooches!! One year later and I would have been with SHOWAs and a whole world of choice. Not only are the tubes a different diameter but they change the pitch of the brake caliper mountings. I shouldn't have let myself be talked out of the super glue and gaiters countermeasure I had planned.

[Darren69]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-600-750-900-Marzocchi-Gabel-mit-Gabelbrucke-und-Hutmutter-Fork-in-/322432905965?hash=item4b127fb2ed:g:XDAAAOSwtfhYryp f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORCELLE-STELI-DUCATI-MONSTER-900-93-97-FORK-ORIGINAL-/291805333545?hash=item43f0f40829:g:HW8AAOSwwo1Xclv A

There's not many of early ones for sale on ebay in good condition, most or the rest I've seen are badly pitted and too much £ for a pair.There are a few LHS ones but no RHS.

From what I've seen the chrome on the Marzos must not be as good as on the Showa ones, so that might be your best option. A lot of SS had Showa forks with 17mm axles.

[hatchback]

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-600-750-900-Marzocchi-Gabel-mit-Gabelbrucke-und-Hutmutter-Fork-in-/322432905965?hash=item4b127fb2ed:g:XDAAAOSwtfhYryp f

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORCELLE-STELI-DUCATI-MONSTER-900-93-97-FORK-ORIGINAL-/291805333545?hash=item43f0f40829:g:HW8AAOSwwo1Xclv A

There's not many of early ones for sale on ebay in good condition, most or the rest I've seen are badly pitted and too much £ for a pair.There are a few LHS ones but no RHS.

From what I've seen the chrome on the Marzos must not be as good as on the Showa ones, so that might be your best option. A lot of SS had Showa forks with 17mm axles.
Have gone for the SHOWA replacement alternative. Flipping expensive as a proportion of what the bike is worth so it had better run for a few years!! Already sat on it's replacement but managed to keep the credit card locked up...for the moment.