New Owner 97 M900

[CarloL]

Just Purchased an M900 , 1997 :)

I am the 2nd owner from new, 4270 miles, all new belts , new battery, new Michelin Pilot tyres, new braided brake lines ,fully serviced

Overall really happy with her , loads of character , a bit of heritage and she sounds Glorious, I just happened to stumble across some titanium Termi's for an ST2 for sale at a great price, not too sure if they will fit this model , fit some mirrors that help with viibility due to Elbows getting in the way , (Any advise please)

Plan is to keep it completely as standard, with maybe the exception of Termi exhausts, but easily reversible Just give her a good clean, acr50 , get Ian to machine polish the tank and cquartz it for protection against scratches

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63ZS4iGpi9k

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/5_zpsxcrlkyvi.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/5_zpsxcrlkyvi.jpeg.html)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/1_zpsuxnjcsat.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/1_zpsuxnjcsat.jpeg.html)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/6_zpsmfkztkhx.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/6_zpsmfkztkhx.jpeg.html)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/7_zps93pcahy5.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/7_zps93pcahy5.jpeg.html)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/2_zpszhkuijw8.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/2_zpszhkuijw8.jpeg.html)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/4_zps574ccxz7.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/4_zps574ccxz7.jpeg.html)
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/Ducati%20M900/3_zpsr1yevh6e.jpeg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/Ducati%20M900/3_zpsr1yevh6e.jpeg.html)

[Darren69]

Nice! :) I don't think the ST cans will fit because IIRC the link pipes are angled differently in order that they can rotate up and down when fitting luggage, if they are similar to the ST4 ones they have a 90deg bend in them whereas the Monster ones don't..

Mind you I'm not sure whether the down pipes and collector from an ST2 will fit on the Monster, maybe they would. I'm sure someone on here will know.

I wouldn't bother too much about originality as far as exhausts go, open Termis are considered standard by most and considering how much they cost even s/hand it will only add value.

[Darkness]

Hello and welcome.
Any (Reversible) changes are good as they illustrate what "Monster" means to you, but keep the original parts safely in a box too: some of them are getting difficult to get if you ever want to revert to standard.

[CarloL]

Thanks for the advise!

[Darren69]

Hello and welcome.
Any (Reversible) changes are good as they illustrate what "Monster" means to you, but keep the original parts safely in a box too: some of them are getting difficult to get if you ever want to revert to standard.

What he said. Proper Termis for that model are getting hard to find nowadays in good condition and always had a premium price (£1000 or so new), so expect to pay at least £500 for s/hand if you can find them!

You might get lucky and get some for less than that or you could get another set of standard cans and get them gutted, which is really what the Termis are anyway, depending on the year the standard cans are either Termi or Remus anyway (without the fancy Ti or Carbon wrapping). They do run much better with the open exhaust, airbox mods and rejet, they run better and well and they sound proper Ducati too!

[Dukedesmo]

Nice. :thumbsup:

[Darren69]

Yea, btw who did your paintwork polish? Ian? and how can we get him?

[Flip]

Completely echo what the others have already said and at the risk of boring everyone with yet another photo of my 1997 900 here it is looking a little dirty after the last ride of 2016:

http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag329/fluke900/IMG_9299_zpsd6mewacr.jpg (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fluke900/media/IMG_9299_zpsd6mewacr.jpg.html)

I too am the second owner of mine after a mate bought it new and sold it to me when he moved abroad two years later having only done around a thousand miles on it.

All the mods you can see along with those you can't are reversible except for the Maxton forks- but why would you want to revert back to the horrible standard suspension anyway?

I still have all the standard parts that I've changed over the years, including the rear shock, the original brake hoses and exhaust cans along with every engine bolt all bagged, tagged and boxed.

The mirrors fitted to your bike are not the original 'Mickey Mouse ears' so it might be worth you looking out for a pair if only to bag up and put away- some people like them others not so- I have a pair of DP tear drop ones on mine which although smaller give a better view behind (for me at least) but I doubt you can get them anymore.

One thing I will say, with such a low mileage over such a long time I would take the clutch cover off fairly regularly to check the oil seal behind the basket isn't leaking- it did on mine once it started getting used again and seems to be a favourite weakness on low mileage bikes- Ducati motors like to be used!!

Also might be worth changing the clutch hose for a braided one too as you'll almost certainly be able to feel it bulge when you operate it and the braided line will give you a little more clutch control too.

There's a whole list of things that'll make the standard bike feel nicer to ride as you get familiar with it so don't be afraid to ask.

Oh and I would also be very careful about using a machine to polish the tank as the '97 bikes were about the last to be hand sprayed from start to finish and it would be a shame for that to get damaged. Mine has remained shiny and bright with regular washes and the use of good quality polish after.

But most importantly ..... enjoy it!!!

[Dirty]

Nice bike, welcome

Doesn't look little Flip :)

[CarloL]

Thanks Guys , will look into a K&N filter and a braided clutch line

Bit a Noob Question , is the ignition and seat key the same?

If not , will not having the rear cubbie hole key be an issue with regards getting at anything service time?

How did you install your rear reg plate flip? Mine is still OE but I would like it a little tidier without do a chop and retaining rain protection

[Dirty]

Ignition and seat key will be the same unless one of the locks has been replaced at some point

[CarloL]

Ignition and seat key will be the same unless one of the locks has been replaced at some point

Thanks Dirty , did not want to break anything ; did it seem to want to go into the seat lock

[Darren69]

The seat catch is cable operated and can be difficult especially if the cable is not oiled or worse, has snapped. Mine only takes about quarter turn to open and that's as far as you can turn it. It can be eased by pushing down on the rear seat above where the catch is.

[Darren69]

oh yeah and the key on mine doesn't go all the way into the lock, only about half way

[Darkness]

Thanks Dirty , did not want to break anything ; did it seem to want to go into the seat lock

Take care as the seat locks are different on the S4 and other later bikes. On the early bikes you don't turn the key in the seat lock. Turning the key only bends the key! You put the key in as far as it goes and lift the metal "trigger" next to the lock.
As said, pressing down on the seat above the latch mechanism can make this easier to achieve by taking out some tension in the latch.

[Darren69]

Thanks for pointing out that. I should've said mine is an '02 S4. I didn't realise they were a different operation to the early ones. Be careful though because the keys are quite soft and bend and break easily. My 748 key is slightly twisted and its not been abused, just normal use.

[CarloL]

Thanks! ordered a new key from Ducati too , just so I have a spare

[CarloL]

Quick Q on the clutch , it seems to have a very small threshold between slipping it and giving it enough throttle to get the sweet spot from low revs

Are they known to be a bit clunky at low revs, especially starting off?

Do you guys every get a back fire , (sounds from the airbox area) carbs I reckon , if you pin it from low revs in a gear that may be too high or if you are doing alot of stop start traffic , she can splutter a bit when you pin the throttle open

I am messing around , learning the gear ratio's

[utopia]

Generally speaking, all Ducatis are said to be a little "clunky at low revs".
Its true to a certain extent, but while it bothers some folk, others accept it as a necessary feature of the kind of motor they prefer.
Its probably also true to say as a generalisation that the bigger the motor and the cruder the fuelling, the more clunky it will be.
So your carby 900 is probably one of the more "clunky".
My carby 750 probably comes fairly close behind, but the smaller "bangs" reduce the effect .. and that's one of the reasons I chose it.

In my opinion, and from experience of my 750, a Ducati needs a good clutch and you need to use it, particularly for slow turns at road junctions etc.
My technique is to throttle off as I slow into the turn but if the turn is slow enough to be getting into "clunky" territory, I never open the throttle again without first momentarily dipping the clutch, for just an instant, and then immediately taking up the drive via throttle and clutch combined. .. if that makes any sense.
This significantly reduces the chain snatch and clunkiness.

I reckon you do need a silky clutch though.
Your bike has a dry clutch and I notice that it still has the std closed cover.
That's fine, but I wonder if there is a bit of a build up of dust in there, causing a less than silky operation.
Just a thought.

Other things which can exacerbate the clunky tendency are badly adjusted or imbalanced carbs, badly adjusted or worn chain and even poorly positioned controls.

But I wouldn't rush to do anything to the bike because you'll get to know its character and how best to deal with it much better after a few more miles, and you might find that the problem goes away.

I suppose I should also mention the popular "smaller gearbox sprocket" mod, which many claim to be helpful in avoiding low speed clunkiness.
It seems to work for some folk but for me its not the solution .. in fact it can add to the problem. I've actually gone the other way and have slightly raised rather than lowered the overall gearing.
But I mention it for the sake of completeness.

If it was my bike, I think I'd just check that the chain was adjusted ok and had no tight spots .. and lube it.
Then I'd ride it some more while pondering the clutch action and considering removing the clutch cover and blowing the dust out at some later stage.
When that time came, I would also check the clutch over completely, so it might be a bit more than just a quick blow over.

But basically "they're all like that, sir" .. and you'll get used to it massively in the first thousand miles or two.

[Jez900ie]

I haven't had mine that long either. Its a different bike to yours but it has its own quirks - as no doubt does my riding!

I am resisting making changes to the bike save for a few cosmetics and the headlight until I've put a few thousand on the clock (unless something fails). I figure its likely most curable faults have already been fixed and I need to adjust to my bike. Plus I don't mind not blowing loadsa money on changing something which after a few more rides I won't notice anymore.

Still each to their own and a lot does depend on the actual bike. Mine has been modified and well looked after, plus I am in touch with the previous owner so that makes a difference too.

[CarloL]

Generally speaking, all Ducatis are said to be a little "clunky at low revs".
Its true to a certain extent, but while it bothers some folk, others accept it as a necessary feature of the kind of motor they prefer.
Its probably also true to say as a generalisation that the bigger the motor and the cruder the fuelling, the more clunky it will be.
So your carby 900 is probably one of the more "clunky".
My carby 750 probably comes fairly close behind, but the smaller "bangs" reduce the effect .. and that's one of the reasons I chose it.

In my opinion, and from experience of my 750, a Ducati needs a good clutch and you need to use it, particularly for slow turns at road junctions etc.
My technique is to throttle off as I slow into the turn but if the turn is slow enough to be getting into "clunky" territory, I never open the throttle again without first momentarily dipping the clutch, for just an instant, and then immediately taking up the drive via throttle and clutch combined. .. if that makes any sense.
This significantly reduces the chain snatch and clunkiness.

I reckon you do need a silky clutch though.
Your bike has a dry clutch and I notice that it still has the std closed cover.
That's fine, but I wonder if there is a bit of a build up of dust in there, causing a less than silky operation.
Just a thought.

Other things which can exacerbate the clunky tendency are badly adjusted or imbalanced carbs, badly adjusted or worn chain and even poorly positioned controls.

But I wouldn't rush to do anything to the bike because you'll get to know its character and how best to deal with it much better after a few more miles, and you might find that the problem goes away.


Thanks! Exactly what I was looking for! I am only on a bike(learning to ride) a couple of weeks , just trying to gauge if it is my inability :P I was under the impression carbs and dry clutch might be a factor

I have removed the cover for an open clutch cover for an open cover, the slave cylinder was leaking , the seal was replaced, I have ordered a braided clutch line might help a little with feel/control :) ; I find starting out I can get the sweet spot at low revs, clutch biting point is consistent ; not too sure if it is me over concentrating trying to be as precise as possible but after a 40 KM I find the clunkiness returns , gets a bit frustrating as what I was doing is not netting the same results as before

Bit more practice


is to throttle off as I slow into the turn but if the turn is slow enough to be getting into "clunky" territory, I never open the throttle again without first momentarily dipping the clutch, for just an instant, and then immediately taking up the drive via throttle and clutch combined


I was messing with this technique last nite! Was not too sure if it was a best practice technique or something I was doing in ignorance to get her around the corner

In terms of carbs , she seems to get a bit disgruntled, after 40KM of start/stop traffic ; bike can get hesitant , she is not too sure if you want to pin it ; I presume the carbs are over fueling with all the stop/start action; maybe a technique for a carbed bike in traffic or just a characteristic?

thanks again for the detailed response

[Flip]

Personally I try not to slip the 900's dry clutch too much- it is a bit of a 'light switch' being either engaged or not but the hotter you get them by slipping the grabbier they get.

You soon get used to the technique though and my '97 bike is still on the original clutch at 30,000 miles although it is rather noisy as the basket is getting worn some.

As far as the popping about in traffic and such it could simply be it wanting to clear itself as it gets a bit hot or maybe a little air leak on the inlet rubbers or like mine did a few times before I renewed all the fuel hoses and the Vacuum tap and pump last year, the start of it going to vapour lock where it starves itself of fuel when it gets too hot.

[CarloL]

Thanks Flip , heat makes sense; its fine up to a certain point, then its characteristic of engagement changes (grabbier)

Will try and adjust my technique to try and slip it less , similar to the triple plate clutch I had in the car

Alot of my driving is slow speed start stop rarely going above 1st, 2nd gear

[Flip]

Thanks Flip , heat makes sense; its fine up to a certain point, then its characteristic of engagement changes (grabbier)

Will try and adjust my technique to try and slip it less , similar to the triple plate clutch I had in the car

Alot of my driving is slow speed start stop rarely going above 1st, 2nd gear

I'm sure you'll get there with it but stop, start, 1st and 2nd gear riding is not happy territory for a dry clutch carby 900.

[CarloL]

I'm sure you'll get there with it but stop, start, 1st and 2nd gear riding is not happy territory for a dry clutch carby 900.

Duly noted , will need to change my driving routes

[Darren69]

They do get hot and can overheat in stop/start riding which makes them grabby and unpleasant. Also it's worth putting in neutral when stopped which will help with heat and wear reduction. Holding it on the clutch in gear will make it build heat and wear the friction plates.

[CarloL]

Trying to select Neutral is a PITA lol , generally miss it 2-3 times back and forth to get it

[Flip]

Trying to select Neutral is a PITA lol , generally miss it 2-3 times back and forth to get it

They can be a little awkward which isn't helped by the standard footrest/gear change linkage to be honest (rear sets make it much more direct and positive) but snicking it into neutral from second just before you come to a halt should make it easier for you.

[Mr Gazza]

Not sure if anyone has mentioned this further back, as I haven't read the read thoroughly, but.

Chain adjustment and condition is a big influence on gear selection smoothness.

Have a look at the sticker on the swinging arm and set the chain as close to 30mm freeplay as you can. revolve the wheel to find the tightest point in the chain and check the measurements there.
I use a steel tape from underneath and hook the tab on the top of the chain and then push it upwards with the chain. hold or lock the tape and let the chain go. The bottom of the chain should come down nicely to 30mm. I actually find it sweeter at 28mm at the tightest point, but go by the book to 30mm.

A worn or dry chain will effect the gears, as will hooked sprockets.

[Flip]

Good call on chain adjustment Mr G!

Bikes generally benefit from such things but Ducati's and older ones in particular, really do prefer to be 'just so' don't they?

[Darren69]

What Flip and Gazza said is worth checking and also hooking neutral before you come to a stop also helps. You get used to it eventually.

I found fitting a much lighter/better quality clutch also greatly improves the feel of the gearbox and finding neutral where it should be and not anywhere else.

[CarloL]

What oil does she take , level is on the min

[Darren69]

You can use fully synthetic oil with the dry clutch no risk of slippage. I use Motul 300V 15/50 in my S4 around £15 per litre or I have also used Motul 7100 in the past which is a but cheaper at £10/litre both good oils. I'm led to believe by experts that 300V is probably the best oil, at least for the 4V engines.

Its been so long since I had an air cooled bike, so I don't know which is best and some will advise that it depends on the ambient temperature which weight you use, I would think either of the above should be ok, maybe overkill even.

[CarloL]

Thanks Darren, not sure what is in it to be honest
Will get one of the weights you recommend and top it up

[CarloL]

Has 20W50 in Halfords book, only place open on Saturday

[Darren69]

either 15 or 20W50 should be fine if you can get it at Halfords. 20W50 is just a little bit thicker when cold but both are 50 at 100C.

This was on another forum oil thread:-

"Back in the early to mid 90's, Ducati used to recommend AGIP Sint 2000 10W40 for the two valve bikes. Then a little later switched to AGIP 20W50 Super Racing. When Ducati got Shell sponsorship, they started recommending Shell. But still a 20W50. In warm weather, I recommend the 20W50 and when it gets colder, you can switch to 10W40 to help your motor turn over a little easier."

[Darkness]

either 15 or 20W50 should be fine if you can get it at Halfords. 20W50 is just a little bit thicker when cold but both are 50 at 100C.

This was on another forum oil thread:-

"Back in the early to mid 90's, Ducati used to recommend AGIP Sint 2000 10W40 for the two valve bikes. Then a little later switched to AGIP 20W50 Super Racing. When Ducati got Shell sponsorship, they started recommending Shell. But still a 20W50. In warm weather, I recommend the 20W50 and when it gets colder, you can switch to 10W40 to help your motor turn over a little easier."

The '93 Monster owners manual [Page 63] says 3.5 litres of Agip 4T Super Racing in the sump and filter. The sticky next to the clutch cover repeats this.

http://agipoil.co.id/product.aspx?t=0&ID=1778

I recently bought oil at Moto Rapido and they now supply Motul 4T 10/40 fully synthetic.

[CarloL]

Shell website recommends 10W40


thanks

[CarloL]

Sorry for all the Q's

The rear shock is squeaking (under the seat) , some way I can lube this, GT86?

Is there any cubby hold or storage on the bike , I cannot find anywhere

[Mr Gazza]

The old rear suspension squeak is very hard to locate. I have found that it's usually the rose joints at the bottom of the hoop.
Just a matter of trying to squirt something into all the joints and pivots to lube them up a bit. It may take a little while to penetrate and work properly, so don't despair if it still squeaks immediately after you have lubed it.

[Darren69]

I think there should be a storage compartment in the seat base itself, where the toolkit is stored. I'm not 100% sure on the early bikes if there was one or how big it its and mine has an aftermarket seat which doesn't have one anyway.

[CarloL]

The old rear suspension squeak is very hard to locate. I have found that it's usually the rose joints at the bottom of the hoop.
Just a matter of trying to squirt something into all the joints and pivots to lube them up a bit. It may take a little while to penetrate and work properly, so don't despair if it still squeaks immediately after you have lubed it.


Thanks , just reading here , they said suspension may collapse :eek:

Replace them , don't bother lubing

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/archive/index.php/t-44397.html

I think there should be a storage compartment in the seat base itself, where the toolkit is stored. I'm not 100% sure on the early bikes if there was one or how big it its and mine has an aftermarket seat which doesn't have one anyway.

Thanks , I dont think anything is under my seat just the plastic guard that sits above the rear wheel hugger! Will take another look

[Darren69]

Its in the seat itself, in the seat base. The later bikes had a compartment with a lid I'm sure the toolkit goes in there and should be clips for the tank prop too. I don't have either anyway with the Corbin, and the tank prop is pretty poor as it only supports the tank one side it will cause the tank seam to split and leak. So don't use it, use some timber instead.

[CarloL]

Put some Litium grease on the the Rose joints , squeak stopped ! If it comes back will replace them

Here's underneath my seat , looks like it has a box with 8mm nut on it , you need a 8mm socket to get at the tool Kit lol?

http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb469/clodola/IMG_5082_zps16jskeoq.jpg (http://s1207.photobucket.com/user/clodola/media/IMG_5082_zps16jskeoq.jpg.html)

[Flip]

It should be a slotted thumb screw the same as the ones used for securing the seat cowl.

Personally I think the squeak comes from the reducer that fits into the rose joint rather than the rose joint itself but it is also worth taking the seat off and rocking the bike a little as the top suspension fulcrum has been known to rub on the seat base.

[slob]

Worth periodically taking out the pivot bolt in the top rocker and greasing the bushes & needle rollers. Bush at bottom of the Shock too.

[CarloL]

Will do thanks!

[utopia]

That toolbox lid screw is a poor design.
Neither the knurling nor the slot are particularly good ways of tightening them.
Result is that they often don't get fully tightened, work loose on the road, drop out and are lost.
Same can be said for the ones holding the seat cowl tbh, but there's less regular need to disturb those.

As it happens, I've just made myself a replacement which works a lot better.
Its just a first stab at it, using a cut down and modified wing-bolt in plain steel.
A proper one in stainless will follow at some stage, but not for a good while yet.
When that does happen, I'll make a batch and offer them around the club.
In the meantime, if you have trouble getting hold of a std screw you can have my old one .. just pm me your address if you want it.

[CarloL]

I topped her up with a few ml of 10W40 , all they had in Halfords

Ducati specialist got back to me on the oil , he likes to use 15/50 and 20w50 in hot weather (Spot on DArren) , 10W40 is fine but you have to keep an eye on the level because it burns off quickly

Might just get some Motul 300V 4T Factory Line 15W-50 and a K&N filter KN-153

Quick Q , do I need any additional gaskets for an oil change?

Dont want to drop the oil and realise I need something else :)

[Darkness]

Quick Q , do I need any additional gaskets for an oil change?

Dont want to drop the oil and realise I need something else :)

Get a couple of new crush washers for the sump plug. You can re-use the old ones at a push, but if it weeps you have to drop the oil again to fix it.

[utopia]

While you're at it, its worth getting a crush washer for the mesh oil strainer too (different size to the sump drain bolt).
Again, you may well be able to re-use the original one, but better safe than sorry.

[Luddite]

While you're at it, its worth getting a crush washer for the mesh oil strainer too (different size to the sump drain bolt).
Again, you may well be able to re-use the original one, but better safe than sorry.

I'm not sure how important this is but, if your washer is the same as my Evo (85250051A), then it'll be handed and should be fitted with the flat side against the crankcase:

http://i873.photobucket.com/albums/ab292/vincebessant/Mobile%20Uploads/M1100_Evo_12_4_3.17.1.10_zpsf69zg30s.jpg (http://s873.photobucket.com/user/vincebessant/media/Mobile%20Uploads/M1100_Evo_12_4_3.17.1.10_zpsf69zg30s.jpg.html)

I didn't know that the first time I changed it. I had no problems though so, either I was lucky or it doesn't actually make much difference. (Must be a reason for the design though - anybody know?)

[CarloL]

What sump plug is in them? M22 X 1.5?

Will get a GoldPlug

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Gold-Plug-AP-22-Porsche-Magnetic/dp/B01N7EQ9IJ

https://raceboltuk.com/product/ducati-monster-900-02-race-titanium-sump-plug-magnetic/

[Luddite]

What sump plug is in them? M22 X 1.5?

Not certain about your 900, but my Evo is M12 x 1.5. If yours takes a 5mm allen key and is ø15mm, then it'll be the same.

[CarloL]

Thanks :) will take a look , was going off what I saw on ebay and Amazon

[CarloL]

Will Remus s4 fit my bike?

Do you need a recalibration of the carbs with slip-on remus or Termi's

[LCjohnny-again]

oh yeah and the key on mine doesn't go all the way into the lock, only about half way
what he said

Welcome

[CarloL]

Got some termi's on the way from Italy but I am also highest bidder on a set in Japan yahoo lol

[CarloL]

Thunder is coming,

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170620/4502c8e5c481939c36474d087e8a69aa.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170622/01eb5bd97769c2ca666af5e3a664dc0b.jpeg

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[CarloL]

Was pointed out to me I have an elephant symbol on the Petrol cap and timing belt cover , Cagiva?

Anybody know the history behind this? Cannot find anything online other than last minute , Ducati pulled the Cagiva branding and put it under Ducati

[Darkness]

Was pointed out to me I have an elephant symbol on the Petrol cap and timing belt cover , Cagiva?

Anybody know the history behind this? Cannot find anything online other than last minute , Ducati pulled the Cagiva branding and put it under Ducati

In '93 when the m900 went on sale, Ducati was owned by Cagiva, who liked to put their elefant logo in as many places as possible.

Keep a lookout and you'll probably find a few more: check the twist grip body and the air box for starters.

Cagiva sold Ducati later in the 90's and the number of Elefants slowly reduced as parts were respecified.

Another noticeable change from the change of ownership was the change in Ducati tank logo. Cagiva still own the copyright for the earlier letter style apparently.

[Albie]

Every where inc
Rubber cable ties
inside alloy clutch case
Heads
Barrels
Crankcases
Throttle case
Switchgear case
Wheels
Belt covers
Airbox
Foot rests

[CarloL]

Thanks for the History Lesson!

New CNC Racing Parts arrived! Was busy again this evening

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http://i.imgur.com/u7qRR2yl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/VPSYsmll.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/ve2IAIFl.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/HGgy7Uol.jpg

[CarloL]

Cleaned the Monster

https://scontent-dub4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23658495_10208329444233744_3516030658381545936_n.j pg?oh=2cdb9d642f049747c4b9bf3b0c11505c&oe=5A907BE6

https://scontent-dub4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23659216_10208329444313746_2183692143782283705_n.j pg?oh=7a816a24685aa17ede42cbd0798ea5e3&oe=5AC4B59E

https://scontent-dub4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23795570_10208329444273745_4775912931071231131_n.j pg?oh=e573b46442d1c0d9431c1a5d48b3fb9a&oe=5ABD6DBC

https://scontent-dub4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23622325_10208329444913761_4351095768293273304_n.j pg?oh=8d86d649931dcde27d98b2026abc9dd2&oe=5ACFD424

https://scontent-dub4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23722589_10208329445113766_4068876280201555396_n.j pg?oh=c77ee0762fb6c293e37ef0796fbd2e8a&oe=5AC4B4D0

https://scontent-dub4-1.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t1.0-9/23621588_10208329445513776_7090369631846202362_n.j pg?oh=9287473742972fb1a80d2e3bd8f1a85e&oe=5ACDA12B

[Mr Gazza]

You really should ride it more often. That's the worst case of mould I have ever seen!
Was it Alternaria, Cladosporium, Penicillium or just efflorescence?

No matter you seem to have got it all off.. I recommend the use of a fungicide.;)

[Nottsbiker]

Was pointed out to me I have an elephant symbol on the Petrol cap and timing belt cover , Cagiva?

Anybody know the history behind this? Cannot find anything online other than last minute , Ducati pulled the Cagiva branding and put it under Ducati

I've got the elephant on my fuel cap along with the old style logo on the tank :thumbsup:

Following on from Albie's comments I'll be looking out for the logo on other parts of the bike - probably the parts I'll be removing and upgrading!

Like your upgrades to suspension - I've gone with a remote reservoir Maxton shock and revalved / rebuilt 916 forks again by Maxton

[Jez900ie]

Like your upgrades to suspension - I've gone with a remote reservoir Maxton shock and revalved / rebuilt 916 forks again by Maxton

Hi Nottsbiker,
I am curious - why did you choose to change your forks to 916? Are they much better? I have adjustable Showa and will upgrade them at some point this year. I plan to have Maxton revamp the internals but should I be thinking of different forks? I dont want to get the work done only to find that I should have changed the forks first!

Any advice you -or anyone else- can give is most appreciated!

[Darren69]

The 916/748 has a very sweet front end even with standard Showa forks, it feels like it is on rails (some of that sweetness comes from the overall chassis package however and general balance of the bike as a whole and overall not without compromise to comfort) but I have yet to find a better handling bike, the monster one on the other hand is not so sweet. Some of that I think is down to the rear bias of the standard monster setup and can be dialed out but eventually the difference between the 851/888 dericed chassis of the monster has to take second place to the much improved 916/748 design. Whether changing just the forks would be an improvement or not I don't know.

[Nottsbiker]

In addition to the forks I've got the hoop extenders to go in and fatbar converters which raise the bars high enough to allow the 916 forks to be moved up / down to adjust the weight bias of the bike. I anticipate this will take some time to get right and may benefit from some professional input.

PM hopefully answers your other fork Q's

[Darren69]

Yea, hoop extenders will ptobably sort much of the bad geometry/wayward handling issues especially with clip ons fitted. Dunno about the forks, but the standard ones are crap imh and better springs don't help neither.

Back to te drawing board or Maxton on that whole crappy forks issue. That's the plan anyway once funds allow anyway.

[Nottsbiker]

Splitting from your ex and ending up with a few grand 'spare' from the remortgage I ended up buying her out with has helped my M900 no end!

Just need paint n powder now + lots of assembly.

Tripped over a 900cc engine that someone had left on the kitchen door mat this morning....

[CarloL]

Carbs all cleaned, idle and main jets

https://i.imgur.com/dOPolIcl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/aNvD0L2l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/T2MZyBdl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ZOyVRLxl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/fOJ5tIbl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bcDTJP0l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hHU3zd7l.jpg

New Rebuild kit , not too bad at 30 euro

https://i.imgur.com/QPo6sryl.jpg

[CarloL]

https://i.imgur.com/h8md6Anl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/il57fTul.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/haUq4Fsl.jpg

POR15 treatment for the monster tank, I did not do the Sealer just degrease and phosphate zinc coating

Before

https://i.imgur.com/FDxrn4sl.jpg

After

https://i.imgur.com/Vys7YLWl.jpg

Put in an LED headlamp on the Monster, dont know if I prefer the OE one

https://i.imgur.com/l3yVJUul.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/I5BwHW9l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/cNJtpm4l.jpg

Replaced tbe perished Rubber mount on the Monster peg bracket, replaced all the rusted bolts ; makes a nice visual difference ; heads have stepped one size up in Allen key size from what was on there

[CarloL]

New Choke Cable , new starter Solenoid fitted ( for 30 euro, worth doing as it is 22 years old)

The new Left Fork seal decided to leak, just serviced the forks , While getting re-done , will get the belts done as they are due

https://i.imgur.com/nxT0rZul.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/6UYgNQgl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dII8eFKl.jpg

Monster got new chain and sprockets, new fork oil and seals

https://i.imgur.com/vnSqy54l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wQ8ryr6l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SAolz2pl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/40fWHPdl.jpg

[CarloL]

https://i.imgur.com/4mCYVTwl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/K6PtNyTl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ooguOgtl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/deKGSVdl.jpg

Replaced the Stater Soenoid plug with a Superseal connector

https://i.imgur.com/7mLzW7ml.jpg

[CarloL]

First clean of the monster since winter

https://i.imgur.com/WKnnasLl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zn3DBSBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2LI6Hqpl.jpg