front suspension

[alangoldsmith]

my front suspension on my 620 monster is rock hard and doesn't seem to have much travel as this is my first bike with up side down forks I'm at a bit of a loss as to where to start any clues would be great

[jonzi]

Have the forks ever been serviced?

Might want to get some new oil put in, check the spring rates etc

[Martin C]

Consider fitting a set of HyperPro softer/progressive fork springs (and their oil). Doing this transformed my Monster's ride from bizarrely bumpy to confidently comfortable!

[Mr Gazza]

The first thing you could try at no expense, is the old bouncy bouncy trick.
Slacken the wheel spindle nut just a tiny bit (if you have one) then slacken all the pinch bolts holding the spindle.
Give the forks a good few bounces with the front brake hard on, the wheel pointing dead straight and with the bike upright.
Then very carefully lower the bike back onto the sidestand, or better still have someone hold the bike in the upright position, while you re-tighten the pinch bolts and then gently re-tighten the axle nut.
This makes sure both legs are parallel and slide with the least resistance...also have a good squint across the legs to see if you can detect any twist in the yokes (not so easy!)

It is possible that there might be too much oil in the legs causing a near hydrualic lock.
With the wieght off the front wheel remove the fork tops and check the oil level...There should be an air gap, but not sure what it is on 620ie.

Do you have any damping adjustment? if so, note the present settings and compare to standard settings....They could be too heavily damped.

If non of the above make any difference, then it's service time. Definately some new oil, and possibly some new springs!!

If you need some professional help then call MCT at Stowmarket...They can do everything from just good advice over the phone to a complete re-build/re-finish to top standards.

http://mctsuspension.co.uk/Home.html

[alangoldsmith]

are they much of a job is it a straightforward job or better left to the experts

[Mr Gazza]

Like yourself Alan, I have not tackled a set of up-side-downies yet, but I've done plenty of various teles which are a piece of cake.

I looked into dismantling mine a couple of years back, and found that they needed some special tools and some unfamilliar methods. The need to look inside passed, as the problem I had was not in the forks...So I never got to learn how to it.

Unless the seals need replacing, I would just do a "superficial" service and check.
The legs come out of the yoke easily enough, to empty the old oil and swill some parafin around in there...You learn a lot from the look of the old oil and any muck that the parafin brings out.
Try some 7.5w oil at the recommended level and see how it goes.

As above , if it needs anything more than that, then I would go to MCT. they will measure oil viscosities, spring rates, your wieght and everything else, to make a set up that will work for you....To my mind that has got to be better than fannying around with over the counter spring kits??

[alangoldsmith]

cheers gazza I think that's what I will do have a look at the oil etc then ask the pros

[utopia]

The first thing you could try at no expense, is the old bouncy bouncy trick.
Slacken the wheel spindle nut just a tiny bit (if you have one) then slacken all the pinch bolts holding the spindle.
Give the forks a good few bounces with the front brake hard on, the wheel pointing dead straight and with the bike upright.
Then very carefully lower the bike back onto the sidestand, or better still have someone hold the bike in the upright position, while you re-tighten the pinch bolts and then gently re-tighten the axle nut.
This makes sure both legs are parallel and slide with the least resistance...also have a good squint across the legs to see if you can detect any twist in the yokes (not so easy!)


I don't think you need to slacken the wheel spindle nut, or the spindle pinch bolts on that side.
Just slackening the pinch bolts on the other side will allow the fork bottom on that side to float relative to the other side. Then bounce to align both legs and retighten.
Bounce as far as you physically can ... I think this will maximise the self aligning effect.
....In my opinion.
Comments ?

Also, when retightening the two pinch bolts on each side, alternate frequently 1-2-1-2-1-2, gradually increasing the torque until you reach the spec.
This will ensure that the clamping action is even/parallel.
Failure to do this may also, in an extreme case, crack the fork bottom.

[Mr Gazza]

I don't think you need to slacken the wheel spindle nut, or the spindle pinch bolts on that side.
Just slackening the pinch bolts on the other side will allow the fork bottom on that side to float relative to the other side.

I think you're right you know....Come to think of it what does the spindle nut actually do?

It gives you something to get hold of when you hoik the spindle out, and also gives a means of nipping the legs together, should you decide to only pinch the axle on the other end and then merrily haul the nut up!!

Seems to me you could save some unsprung wieght and bung the nut in the bin?