My S2R 800

[Blah blah]

Thought I'd start a thread now that I've had her for a couple of weeks...

https://i.imgur.com/g272U7N.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ziVgKEG.jpg

As I had a day off work and the sun was shining, I thought I'd flirt out for a bit... when I got here I stopped as there isn't much of Cornwall left!

https://i.imgur.com/ZunzCM3.jpg

Back to Penzance and St Michael's Mount in the distance

https://i.imgur.com/3XiFsi0.jpg

Slight delay on the way back home

https://i.imgur.com/ZQWraWN.jpg

And back home, some 70 or so miles later, and needing a clean

https://i.imgur.com/3x2rVse.jpg

The rear tyre is quite old and square, and I don't really enjoy the front forks as they crash over bumps and disappear when braking (I have some ST4s forks in the shed, hmmmm...) and the front brakes are a bit naff but despite all this we still seem to have lost virtually all of the chicken strips off the rear :mand:

[https://i.imgur.com/b17YkWI.jpg

Still lovin' it (but must remember to take the pictures the other way round on my phone :banghead:)

[singletrack]

Lovely bike.
I swapped the forks on mine for those from an S4R and I put a Wilber's on the back.
They were much better!

[Blah blah]

Not done a lot recently, until tonight...

Just having a quick look under the seat

https://i.imgur.com/5NJUkLb.jpg

Looks like dodgy wiring

https://i.imgur.com/ynXo6wr.jpg

And it is...

What's that tape for and where have all the other bits gone..?:confused:

https://i.imgur.com/XbRimjX.jpg

:running::look:

https://i.imgur.com/ccFMBVz.jpg

And back together again :biggrin:

https://i.imgur.com/OKMJulN.jpg

No side shots as it began to rain, just need to figure out a number plate light and stick a reflector on.... Anyone want a tail tidy for an S2R??

[Dirty]

Good man :thumbsup:

[Nottsbiker]

You'll need to cut those cans down next :)

[Darren69]

Yea, chop, chop! There is way too much spaghetti under there too.

[cactus]

Can't stand the chopped look, ye've spoiled yer bike man.

[Dookbob]

I love the sheep on the way back from lands End. Oh to be in England now the sheep are here.

[Dirty]

Where did they go before?

[Blah blah]

... ye've spoiled yer bike man.

Err, no... it looks loads better

https://i.imgur.com/X3yBCzA.jpg

And the cans aren't going to be cut, but I do need some new mirrors now as one has started to move when I'm 'making progress' :mand:

(computer broke, just got a new one, that's why I haven't been doing much on here for a bit, have you missed me??)

[Fatal]

Still loving my. S2R
http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p537/Fatalhud/S2R/S2R%20Lakes/_DSC1630_zpsf0add204.jpg (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/Fatalhud/media/S2R/S2R%20Lakes/_DSC1630_zpsf0add204.jpg.html)

[Blah blah]

Been a while since I updated this...

I've ridden it twice in the past week, once to the MoT man for him to fail it because the head bearings had gone all notchy (I thought it was cold tyres on greasy, sandy, wet roads) and back to him again today to have new bearings fitted and re-MoT'd.

However the bearings purchased from Ducati haven't turned up FFS, so it's in bits in the bike shop workshop. They might turn up tomorrow apparently.

And while I was waiting, some Triumph Adventure thingy turned up and parked next to the S2r and it makes you realise just how small the monster is compared to other stuff

[Blah blah]

MoT passed, with 2 advisories... discoloured rear light (it's clear, no idea what he's going on about :scratch:) and noisy exhaust ! :look: :D

The ST4s forks are also fitted... prior to fitting I searched for suitable settings but they were no where near, but it was chucking it down and I wasn't about to do anything silly. When I got home, I backed off the preload and rebound slightly and now when doing the bouncing-up-and-down-in-the-shed test, the sag and rebound are better, not sure on the rest and won't really know until I've been out on it.

Need to wait for some sunshine now

[Facom]

You wont have to wait long, saturday is looking good

[Blah blah]

Gsoh... it has been a while since this was updated... another year, another MoT, another advisory or 2 for tyres and a noisy exhaust, (an advisory is always useful when explaining to the other half why you need new tyres !!).

However, doing my pre-MoT checks I noticed that the switches were touching the tank at full lock - a quick change to the lock stops cured it but closer inspection shows that the tank appears to have swelled as it doesn't fit properly anymore...:hissy:

https://i.imgur.com/pwrGnlS.jpg

New tyres are booked for later this week so time to see what can be done with my current tank :(

[Jez900ie]

Nice bike!

[Darkness]

Drain the old petrol and let the tank "breath" in a warm dry place (That now smells of petrol) and it should lose water out of the plastic, returning to a more normal shape.

There are recommendations that you use ethanol free petrol to avoid this, but that's less easy for you as you are in Devon.

The Norton Owners Club included the following comment on its website last year:

'Esso super unleaded petrol (Synergy Supreme+ Unleaded 97) is ethanol free (except in Devon, Cornwall, the Teesside area and Scotland) and we have no current intention to add ethanol to Synergy Supreme+ in other areas of the UK.

We would therefore advise anyone who has concerns about the presence of ethanol in petrol to use Synergy Supreme+ - providing they do not fill up in Devon or Cornwall, the Teesside area or Scotland.'

[Blah blah]

but that's less easy for you as you are in Devon.


Even less easy as it'd take over an hour just to get to Devon !! :twak:

Anyway, back to the bike... I went to drain the tank but it seems to have swelled up further and I can't even get the catch off now, bit peeved that this is the first time I've had this happen but it doesn't appear to an uncommon problem so I'll chalk it down to Ducati 'character'.

Living in Cornwall, damp is a problem so we ventilate and use dehumidifiers and given that I was running out out time I checked the drain hose to find it was kinked and several drips of water fell out. As the drain hose is connected to the tank vent (in a roundabout way) I have attached a small 69p dehumidifier to the hose, taped over the petrol cap and I'm going to see what happens. If nothing happens then it's cost less than a quid, but I just need it to do a bit so I can get the tank off to drain the fugger.

We'll see.

In happier news, new tyres fitted, Michelin Pilot Power 2ct, not the newest or probably the stickiest out there but I like how they feel (apart from when you've got 2 brand new ones on greasy roads :on:)

[jonzi]

... so I can get the tank off to drain the fugger...

A metre or two of hose pipe, stick it in the tank, ready with a container to catch the petrol, blow hard in to the hose pipe, then a quick suck, and then quickly put the blowly end in to the container.

Shouldn't drink any of the petrol that way.

I am sure BLUNT has a better way of doing it, but I haven't seen him for a while.

[Mr Gazza]

Blah Blah know all about siphoning Monster tanks and doesn't seem to miss an opportunity to post pictures of an example of that going on in his home County! Nuff said!

De-humidifier sounds like a neat idea, but taping up the cap sounds wrong. Surely it needs to breath for the de-humidifier to work?.. It certainly needs to breath to run the engine.

I stitch up little cotton bags full of Silica Gel and keep them in my tool box and anywhere else, where stuff might tend to go rusty.
Silica Gel attracts and absorbs moisture. Maybe a bag of that in the tank on a string, once you can get rid of the petrol.
Don't know if it would work, but it might help?

[Darren69]

Can you not undo the hinge bolts and slide the tank backwards, then unclip it at the front? That may or may not be the Blunt method.

[Nickj]

My tank is the same, shoddy materials well not made to cope with ethanol which is a surprise as they had it in Italy when they released the S2R ad all other models.
I have a 'spare' sitting in the man cave with a dehumidifier running before a repaint to match the original colour.
The silica gel would work just a bit slower, ig you cant find any bag up some quick set or ordinary portland cement which will do the same thing.

[Capo]

Silica gel is an absorbent and becomes saturated after a while and will require regeneration for dehydration to continue

[Mr Gazza]

bag up some quick set or ordinary portland cement which will do the same thing.

Silica gel is an absorbent and becomes saturated after a while and will require regeneration for dehydration to continue

The cement will go hard and only work once. Make sure it hasn't taken a shape inside the tank, that will not come out of the filler neck!

Silica Gel is re-useable many times, by simply drying it out. Laying the bags on a radiator or in the Sun will do the trick. I don't recommend doing this in your food oven, as some have done!

I used to buy it from the Chemist years ago, but not sure if you can still do that. Not sure if it is a poison as such, but it would do you a whole lot of no good if you swallowed some!
I bet you could have some heading your way with just a few clicks on the internet these days.
I still save the little packets that sometimes come in packaging of moisture sensitive things. It's labelled "desiccant".
It's also used inside the hollow ally spacer bar round the edge of double glazed units. If there is a sealed unit maker near you, they might bung you a bag?

[Jez900ie]

The cement will go hard and only work once. Make sure it hasn't taken a shape inside the tank, that will not come out of the filler neck!

Silica Gel is re-useable many times, by simply drying it out. Laying the bags on a radiator or in the Sun will do the trick. I don't recommend doing this in your food oven, as some have done!

I used to buy it from the Chemist years ago, but not sure if you can still do that. Not sure if it is a poison as such, but it would do you a whole lot of no good if you swallowed some!
I bet you could have some heading your way with just a few clicks on the internet these days.
I still save the little packets that sometimes come in packaging of moisture sensitive things. It's labelled "desiccant".
It's also used inside the hollow ally spacer bar round the edge of double glazed units. If there is a sealed unit maker near you, they might bung you a bag?

If cement powder works, surely rice would too?

[Mr Gazza]

surely rice would too?

They put that in Hondas.

[Jez900ie]

They put that in Hondas.

And all salt pots in the tropics!

[Blah blah]

Heath Robinson is my friend again, but after about a week the tank has shrunk enough so that it almost fits again! :yoparty:

https://i.imgur.com/SWQzoaH.jpg\

It consists of a small bucket with a tight lid and a hole cut in the bottom, the filler hose from an old petrol can (cut down, big end taped up to help with sealing and wedged into the tank filler hole, smaller end stuffed through the hole in the bottom of the bucket) and a 69p disposable dehumidifier in the bucket.

The thinking is that the dehumidifier removes any moisture from the air in the bucket, creating a drier area that the moist air in the tank then tries to balance by removing the moisture from the tank. Living so close to the sea means that the normal air is pretty damp all the time anyway, and mist and fog is quite common so just leaving it open might have made it worse!

[Mr Gazza]

Great work Blah Blah.. :thumbsup:

How does your little dehumidifier work?
I looked up cheap dehumidifiers, the majority seem to use Calcium Chloride. It is described as a desiccant and would appear to work in anhydrous form much like Silica Gel, to exploit it's hygroscopic nature.

These dehumidifiers seem to employ replaceable tablets (of Calcium Chloride), so it's not clear to me whether the tablets can be regenerated by drying as Silica Gel can.

Since your experiment seems to have been a success, ( and I like the science behind it) I would be looking to get a bigger version of the dehumidifier in there, laying out as much as £3.50 for one with replaceable tablets... The capacity of your brilliant cheapie must be limited to it's size. Although not a big problem if it can be dried out and re-used. Probably no more to buy at 69p than the tablets anyway?


Blue Peter badge for this one.. :D:thumbsup:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Calcium_chloride

[Nickj]

If cement powder works, surely rice would too?

Might well do but this kind of use would ruin the flavour so only use cheap easy cook rice. Rice absorbs about 3 times it weight in water, though as you aren't actually boiling it then it would be a little less I imagine.
Very dry silica gel absorbs about half and portland cement about a third of its weight in water.

[BeePee]

Why chop the tail ? Especially with the shorter carbon guard. It took me ages to find a Monster that I liked and HADN'T been chopped, every perfect one that ticked the boxes got deleted when I seen the tail chop.
Anyway each to their own, keep chopping away, it'll make mine more sought after in years to come

[Darren69]

I can understand wanting rid of the horrible black plastic thing but the DP carbon one looks great and has great lines IMHO. It is also distinctive of the early Monster. I think its a case of chuck out the baby with the bathwater, for me anyway. Without it, it looks like something is missing and the exhausts stick out too far at the back. I suppose it gives a more modern look as a lot of more recent bikes have that kind of look, Panigale etc but it works for those because the overall design is more modern. The monster is more a retro looking bike, well not so much looking it actually is a retro bike now!

Prices of original unmolested ones will increase for sure, I just look at some of the Jap crap that is fetching big bucks like CX500's up for 5k and stuff like that are fetching silly money.

[Darren69]

Here are some of my DP Carbon Ducktail tray and sugar scoop on the S4 Foggy.

https://s25.postimg.cc/bivrp2w4f/P1000419.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/67gv4da1n/)

https://s25.postimg.cc/a3u70cflr/P1000420.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/rh4hf7awr/)

https://s25.postimg.cc/7mift33f3/P1000421.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/i9c8yibkb/)

https://s25.postimg.cc/iyv1avrjj/P1000422.jpg (https://postimg.cc/image/migz0ou97/)

[BeePee]

We need a "like" button !

[Darren69]

Yes, we need a poll 'Choppers' vs 'Ducatisti Cognoscenti' maybe?

I can't believe in 25 years of Monsters that the most common modification that people think of is chopping the the end off the frame? That's so passe in this day and age and doesn't suit the standard high level pipes anyway but. Surely there is something more original out there? Radical Ducati where are you? I love a modified Ducati but you have got to do it right. They used to do some really nice bikes.

[rac3r]

I'm going carbon short tail with mine again. I like that it exposes the frame a little

[Blah blah]

Why chop the tail ? Especially with the shorter carbon guard. It took me ages to find a Monster that I liked and HADN'T been chopped, every perfect one that ticked the boxes got deleted when I seen the tail chop.
Anyway each to their own, keep chopping away, it'll make mine more sought after in years to come

I did it because I prefer it chopped. To me, unchopped it looks like a compromise on the original design to a tick a government box somewhere that says motorbikes need to have a huge rear mudguard.

And to be honest I don't buy stuff to worry about what its future value might or might not be, life is too short.

[Blah blah]

Apparently you should spend a couple of hundred miles running new tyres in gently, ho hum...

https://i.imgur.com/783H5Cl.jpg

Anyway, there is a little bit of the chicken strip left, so it must have been quite gentle :spin:

Oh, and on the bay of E, someone was selling a ST4s ohlins from their monster project that might be of interest, wasn't anyone on here was it?

[Blah blah]

Been a while since I updated this, but then I haven't done much with it although it doesn't stop me buying some bits !

https://i.imgur.com/MGaU3Ti.jpg

ST4S rear shock to match the front end, the photo is quite flattering (as were the ones that I bought it off) but as it'll be off for a service, probably a re-spring and set up, it's not a major problem.

Just got to find somewhere to mount the adjusters though :scratch:

[Albie]

Been a while since I updated this, but then I haven't done much with it although it doesn't stop me buying some bits !

https://i.imgur.com/MGaU3Ti.jpg

ST4S rear shock to match the front end, the photo is quite flattering (as were the ones that I bought it off) but as it'll be off for a service, probably a re-spring and set up, it's not a major problem.

Just got to find somewhere to mount the adjusters though :scratch:

Mount under the seat discreetly like I did on my 900. You don't even know its there and that was the idea.

[Luddite]

Nice find!

I had the S4R version (DU333) on my S2R 1000. I fitted the preload adjuster on the right pillion mount (see pic) and the reservoir hung length-wise on the left subframe below the saddle.

The Öhlins instructions say the reservoir should be mounted on the right, forward of the rider's pegs, on the frame above the crankcase. Great for cooling but not so hot on looks, hence moving it under the saddle. I had to cut a couple of slots in the plastic undertray to accommodate the hose, but nothing major.

If you're getting the shock rebuilt/refreshed, you might think about fitting a different length hose with appropriately angled banjos so that it fits exactly where you want it.

https://i.postimg.cc/fy2hThR7/Monster.jpg (https://postimg.cc/T5DsCFmh)

[Blah blah]

... hence moving it under the saddle. I had to cut a couple of slots in the plastic undertray to accommodate the hose, but nothing major.


Got any pictures of this?

The preload isn't a problem to fit somewhere but the compression one is - it's tempting to cut lumps out of the plastic undertray to try to fit it there

[Luddite]

Sorry, no pics I'm afraid. From memory I think I just removed a small square from the very edge of the undertray right above where I placed the reservoir so the hose could pass through.

https://i.postimg.cc/nLjmPtd9/Photo-Note-3133315544039-2-2239.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Quite an insignificant hole in an inconspicuous place so not enough to weaken the tray or let any water in.

[Blah blah]

New stickers !

https://i.imgur.com/vDX5C57.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WKErynV.jpg

Surprisingly (to me but then I'm no suspension expert) the fork springs haven't been changed they've been serviced, had new seals, 7.5 wt oil and all of the adjustable bits adjusted.

I've had the rear spring changed as the old one needed re-coating but the weight is still the same. If anyone wants an Ohlins spring in need of re-coating let me know. The shock's been serviced with some new seals and adjusted- I also got the remote reservoir hose changed round to make reservoir easier to fit, but that may have created some other problems getting it in :banghead: so some more bits may need to be cut off or adjusted (oh no, think of the future value :rolleyes: :mand:)

The rear shock is in but I need to sort out the bits attached to it (do undertray's go soft if you heat them up?) and I need the new yoke bolts to turn up so I can fit the forks, exciting times..!

[Darren69]

You used to be able to get a Ducati Performance mounting kit fpr the Ohlins preload adjuster on a Monster. I managed to get one from Forza Moto. I'll post details when I have them to hand.

[Darren69]

Sorry, not great pictures but you will hopefully get the idea. The main issue I had was with the Left hi -level pipe and finding a good position in both axis that didn't foul it but the S2R won't have this issue:-

https://i.postimg.cc/jSptNT4m/P1000842.jpg (https://postimg.cc/yDyM4w5y)

https://i.postimg.cc/3rG88djp/P1000845.jpg (https://postimg.cc/9zW51XnF)

https://i.postimg.cc/RVTgKLQB/P1000846.jpg (https://postimg.cc/xccGSH4x)

https://i.postimg.cc/QNQmZJzT/P1000847.jpg (https://postimg.cc/V5Nnjnmf)

https://i.postimg.cc/vZqXS8N2/P1000848.jpg (https://postimg.cc/yDRFDKB0)

https://i.postimg.cc/R0WGr5rS/P1000849.jpg (https://postimg.cc/1gZD6d52)

https://i.postimg.cc/SxSkfdB7/P1000850.jpg (https://postimg.cc/w7GC6XT7)

There will be a DP part number for this but I couldn't find it, sorry and the Ohlins kit that I bought is generic but may work for you as I had mine fitted to the footrest hangar using that part before I found the correct one for the bike.

[Blah blah]

After lots of thought and trying in different places, both remote canisters are now tie wrapped to the frame under the seat after removing the underseat storage lid. What I want are some of the rubber shaped pieces that ohlins sell to fit between the frame and reservoirs but I can't find them so the bits of hard foam I've got in there will do for the moment until I can find something more substantial.

Anyway, and with the bike sitting on a pair of axle stands, I appear to gained 5-7mm in height at the rear (or reduced static sag by the same amount) when measuring from the spindle to the indicator above it.

But I may take the rear shock back off anyway to get one of the hose connections altered - it's fairly tight to the breather box (?) and I don't want it to rub...

[Luddite]

What I want are some of the rubber shaped pieces that ohlins sell to fit between the frame and reservoirs...

Try Reactive Suspension

http://www.reactivesuspension.com/product-detail.php?product_id=16

https://i.postimg.cc/7ZTZPr9G/Shock-Reservoir-Clamps.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

Or any Öhlins dealer should be able to supply them (assuming they're still available). The part number is 00230-01 (x2). Try Mark Hammond at MH Suspension http://www.mhracing.com/

[Blah blah]

It's just that it's £13 plus VAT for 2 jubilee clips and a bit of rubber that sticks in the throat :eek:

[Mr Gazza]

The standard Ohlins remote res is just jubilee clipped to a curved bracket on My M900S.

Would something like this do the trick? https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/Yuzet-Heavy-Duty-Garden-Buckle-Tree-Ties-Straps-Support-Tie-Rubber-Last-Years-40cm-2-2133/1942271258?iid=113571581289&chn=ps

[Blah blah]

So, another year and another advisory for noisy exhausts but a slightly embarrassing not-quite 300 miles between MoTs ! Not a typo, yep 300 and since the last one it's had new tyres and the suspension done so I'm not going to work out the pence per mile...

Anyway, the new suspension is in, serviced and set up for me by MTS and after taking a longer way home from the MoT man, I can tell that the back is certainly higher that it used to be but it doesn't float over the bumps and now both ends are quite firm. I also seemed to have lost a lot of the feel that I used to have form both ends

Perhaps I was expecting too much as Monsters aren't really known for wafting along, the tyres are still pretty new and I'm a bit rusty - so the overall impression at the moment is that it's all a bit 'meh'. I did however get to the edge of the tyres without really pushing so maybe it is lots better and it's just me.

And that's the excuse I'll use at the weekend to get out on it ! :biggrin:

[Blah blah]

The more I ride it, the more I get used to the new suspension. It's taken a couple of trips and it's still a bit choppy on the front at lower speeds but there's no drama as speeds creep up... might be a quick call to MTC to see if they can suggest something

https://i.imgur.com/cS1L7ZB.jpg

Next on the list, belts and a service.

[slob]

Did you see my PM Anthony?

[Blah blah]

At the last MoT I got an advisory about the rear light not being very 'red' (along with 'noisy exhaust') and you can see why...

https://i.imgur.com/TPBOMzW.jpg

It's a cheap LED behind a clear white lense and while it looks red, it isn't a very full fat red - the number plate lights (tiny LEDs) are inside the light shining down. To try to make it more red, I've replaced the cheap one on the right with a 'CE' marked one on the left.

https://i.imgur.com/u5sRg7n.jpg

The results are very satisfying (if somewhat difficult to photo) as the whole light is now a full bright red, more bling !

https://i.imgur.com/dTJaWnF.jpg

[The Clockie]

A problem I've found with all LED replacement tail/stop bulbs is there is never enough difference between the modes, such that the stop indication does not provide the eye-catching flash that's needed to alert following drivers. The standard filament bulb is 5w for the tail and 21w for the stop, so a big difference in light output. I'd guess that most LEDs are biased to the tail function. Add to that that the LED never makes full use of the parabolic reflector in the original housing which produces a proper beam with a filament.

I'm all for LEDs up front but don't care for them in turn signals, and stick very firmly with Osram long-life filament bulbs at the back, behind a red lens. Not cool perhaps, but safer IMO.

Nick

[Darren69]

Full LED light units are available which replace the whole light unit and solve the problem you are seeing with just a replacement bulb. I dont think they are overly expensive either. Sorry if you knew that already.

[utopia]

The problem with many led bulbs is that they project all their light forward whereas the original filament bulb is a point source projecting in all directions which can therefore be picked up over the full area of the silvered reflector.
This is clearly demonstrated in the first pic where a bulb-shaped disc of red light is all that is visible.
The new bulb has side facing leds which project to the reflector and thus overcome the problem.
The other way to do it is to have a larger area of forward facing leds.
My rear light now consists of the std housing but fitted with an array of red leds on a circuit board which covers the whole area of the light unit.
This was originally supplied with a clear lens but I found that fitting it with the original red lense resulted in a light which is a lovely intense red colour and stands out much better in all light conditions than the original did.
And of course, having loads of leds makes it easy to design in a hefty bias towards the stoplight function.
Of course this doesn't have the bling factor of a clear lens but personally I don't really care about that (though I can see that the clear lens might rather suit a silver S2R).

[Blah blah]

I've seen the full LED taillights but haven't found any I really liked enough to buy and to be frank, I think those with the combined indicators are just plain tacky.

The brake light is even more stupidy bright than the tail light, I may have involuntarily laughed out loud the first time I tested it, so no worries with that.

The other thing I'd like to change (apart from the tank and the mirrors) are the indicators. The old 900 had oberon LEDs on when I sold it and I'd really like some of them again but at £60 a pair they'll have to wait as there are various other things demanding my cash at the moment (my Caddy needs welding and the engine putting back in, in the first instance...)

Unless anyone has a spare set or 2 sitting around that they'd sell cheap :D

[Darren69]

I still have a set of 4 DP De Pretto Moto alu idicstors in tbe for sale section

[Darren69]

They are not led but the right period for your bike and brand new.

[rac3r]

I have something like this and it's quite bright and Red!
https://m.louis-moto.co.uk/artikel/led-tail-light-monster-style/10033310

For indicators I have Lightech sequential LEDs

[Blah blah]

Another year, another advisory for a noisy exhaust and a photo or 2.

https://i.imgur.com/bAcjVrx.jpg https://i.imgur.com/KGA9WpO.jpg

Plans for the new year include fitting these, just need new pads

https://i.imgur.com/jidD5ky.jpg

The other one is trying to stop it leaking oil from the filter. I've done loads over the years and never had a problem before but this new filter just isn't playing ball. Both are 'Ducatimondo' and having looked, it's different to the old one and has a number of 'tabs' sticking into the groove where the seal goes near the rivets. There's also a very small dent on the inner rim between 1 and 2 o'clock.

Old on the right, new on the left

https://i.imgur.com/zaMIykz.jpg

The seating surface is fine on the engine so who knows if these tabs are causing the problem (the seal sits proud of them) but the old one didn't leak this one does. For the sake of a few quid I may be investing in another filter, anyone recommend one? K&N perhaps?

[Mark64]

+1 for k&n oil filter, I only get them because they have a hexagon on the bottom for ease of fitting and removal, it makes them much easier to tighten and they have to be pretty tight to prevent minor oil leaks.
Happy New year & happy monstering

[Blah blah]

What started out as me popping into the shed for 5 minutes to see how tight the front disk bolts were on the bike, quickly went from...

https://i.imgur.com/udTuiSe.jpg

to this

https://i.imgur.com/KZ2zeUq.jpg

The disc bolts all came out fairly easily with the brand new Halfords torx bit and lots of gently pressure and so one thing led to another.

Do S2r 1000 hoses fit or are there others that will, presumably if they've got a 90 degree bend at the bottom then they should. If anyone has a link that'd be great.

Also, do I need anything special to replace the bolts in the calipers. The ones in there are a bit rough and it'd be nice to swap them for new plated ones.

[Mr Gazza]

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-S4R-2005-10-HEL-Stainless-steel-Brake-lines-hoses-Race/182413835477?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I'm just fitting some of these, I like the Hel lines anyway. all stainless fittings as standard.
They are twin lines with a double length banjo bolt(supplied) rather than a single line from the master to a tee. It's a cheaper way to do it.

You could also try OHAMotorsport in Down NI.. Very nice outfit, also Hel lines.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162961443503 .. look at their shop.

[stopintime]

The angle on the 1000 master cylinder banjo is different from the 800. The orientation of the banjo bolt is the same, but the banjo angle is different. Strange. My guess is that the 1000 lines will work, but if that's not good enough for you -> custom lines ;)

Caliper bolts - ProBolt have them. Easy to strip the old ones. LOTS of WD40 or similar. Leave for a day or two. Replace one at a time to avoid air in the calipers.

[stopintime]

BTW

the 800 15mm master will feel and work mushy with the new calipers. Either the same 'coffin' master, but up to 16mm from stock 15 - - - or new master. Which in it's turn might decide which lines you'll need....

[Darren69]

You should be able to get away with using the 1000 lines, I would have thought.

I think these are the right bolts.

Titanium Caliper bolts:-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Brembo-Titanium-Caliper-Assembly-Bolt-M8-x-1-25mm-x-40mm/303761932543?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item46b99f40ff:g:1hIAAOSwl3Vfq7kD&amdata=enc%3AAQAFAAACgBaobrjLl8XobRIiIML1V4Imu%252 Fn%252BzU5L90Z278x5ickkpFtSR0CGv%252Bh98r8Yb9quS3t r1iuzxJ%252F1THhutafmiOQEt4HeJJVZxFDRMRvMWxqcgYdVc uGHTMxoXOBHQNC9humZG2F8iwwYn3QuoO2cJZU%252FprMa5xu B%252FedK0ei30cLgN5mzkpBSmanP181EqKuy1%252FvCykBwG yZBfFGhgg0sK7NW52uXiaBzNlU%252FW%252FqS%252B94kwU9 1QQbgV1pBz%252F91DjbxwdU5bFQ9CLopjQnujtTpg431wCSdk 2nNp26TzjxbwGmPWrXEheKYgsXa9jSvQb%252FSPACxsSPUDYl 0CcCSbEt0%252FqNuAYeJ%252BridncRLrEsFsIJFzxFLOUMX% 252FIt%252BR70AkR2cAFdo0GsuzajA80skNSmZOP6XumXL513 7rgiuOTvbT%252BG4sFZckEsWkQ4LZnf8JnP8EGidoHhiPLQ9U 5eG%252BdVimn%252Bw%252BIb5JazjsKrQ0KlzOFbyFVi5E5P 5XOY%252BqgvsE337geClhNKcVqVwb8vm53NHkINE2sdpXAY27 mTLi3lDBLwB4NiX2LlmoCJ2hs45VkHmhWlrPIw3Qf1mrWg6hIB t986O1g3VkCx0JNnBYy%252B17q3gWszz6B%252B0JKoeNF61t oSr4XGf7Clq%252FZgXwjOWO7N8H1mj5VFLdjgs%252FFFE6iS FAu8bMdr7ncB%252FfmMYJTXEy%252FbaAFxlLb1W%252BV2kA z%252FV4BDJ7lnP7K3RIM8z7KEXOZ6X3RE6WdFq8k2i8BdDUEx 88Rq7M5SQr%252FXCtfSjzSEThwjPoGiBnpFrAAJNNyjkYZgyt FLG%252Ff%252BnYaZARlC6xaCfJsJvVUjBg4SkbV5ilJnIwlQ b0m8%253D%7Ccksum%3A3037619325434800f88f606e4f91af cb6ced039c6caf%7Campid%3APL_CLK%7Cclp%3A2334524

I used stainless ones, but I can't find the link.

[Blah blah]

Jeez, do caliper bolts come with scene tax then?

8 stainless of an unknown grade for £32 from a motorbike shop or 10 with a low head from a bolt supplier for £7 ! or the price of 1 titanium bolt !! :eyepopping:

Plated 8.8 are even less.

I know you pays your money and take your choice but I can't see why they are 4 times the price, more investigation is required...

[Darren69]

I think anything Ti is fairly expensive due to the increased manufacturing costs especially for special sized items, but £7.00 a bolt does seem a little excessive. I would shop around. Usual standard sized Ti bolts are not so bad usually, but still pricey when compared to stainless.

[350TSS]

I would go with the 10 low head SS from the bolt supplier, they are almost certainly A2 stainless which is nearly as strong as plated 8.8 high tensile and does not corrode as badly as the high tensile.

[pooh]

I was always told the use of stainless on brakes was a definite NO due to its propensity to become brittle on heat cycles as found on brakes. I’ve always used titanium or standard HT if money was tight. Not sure if I’ve been wrongly informed but I like to be sure I’m going to stop when I pull the lever.

Pooh

[slob]

I was always told the use of stainless on brakes was a definite NO due to its propensity to become brittle on heat cycles as found on brakes. I’ve always used titanium or standard HT if money was tight. Not sure if I’ve been wrongly informed but I like to be sure I’m going to stop when I pull the lever.

Pooh

I think that relates more to shear strength on caliper mounting bolts, rather than tensile strength on pinch bolts, however IT'S YOUR BRAKES! I'd happily pay 30 quid extra to be on safe side there

[Blah blah]

You could also try OHAMotorsport in Down NI.. Very nice outfit, also Hel lines.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162961443503 .. look at their shop.

Ordered custom lines from these people and they were with me a couple of days later - they even added an ebay listing so I could buy a set for the Mito ! Absolute pleasure to deal with.

Hoses are now fitted, I asked for them to be shorter than stock with 90 degree bends at the bottom, however after much faffing, I've put them on 'upside down' so the 90 degree bends are at the top and 45 degree bends at the bottom. The right way round meant that they hit the mud guard and tbh, it looks better from the master cylinder that way. They were a pain to bleed though as the hoses run horizontal from the master cylinder. Pics to follow when it isn't raining.

So that's the suspension done, brakes done, it has loads of carbon fibre bits, full termis plus dynojet and so on so it's done then ! :yoparty: Finally completed and it needs nothing else ! :woot:

Err, no the tank continues to swell so I need to sort that properly but the only problem is that 'properly' probably means a metal tank...

[Mr Gazza]

I'm glad OHAMotorsport looked after you. I really like dealing with them.
Not sure if you realised that with the Hel lines, you can rotate the banjos relative to the ends of the lines by gripping them firmly in two pairs of good pliers and gently but firmly twisting them round. It's very handy to be able to take the twist out of the lines and line the banjos up perfectly.

I've bought Titanium from Titan Classics; very good quality. I'm colluding with the owner to get the correct stainless or Ti R-clips made for the pad pins. Having only been able to find the correct size in BZP.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-M900-Brembo-Goldline-TITANIUM-caliper-pad-pin-Totally-stainless/254491589421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also get on well with RSR Moto who stock some nice Ti bolts, again very good quality and good to deal with.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-Titanium-Cap-Allen-Socket-Head-Bolts-20-25-30-35-40-45-50-55-60-65-70mm/184347398190?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=692038869994&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[walkingpictures]

Ordered custom lines from these people and they were with me a couple of days later - they even added an ebay listing so I could buy a set for the Mito ! Absolute pleasure to deal with.

Hoses are now fitted, I asked for them to be shorter than stock with 90 degree bends at the bottom, however after much faffing, I've put them on 'upside down' so the 90 degree bends are at the top and 45 degree bends at the bottom. The right way round meant that they hit the mud guard and tbh, it looks better from the master cylinder that way. They were a pain to bleed though as the hoses run horizontal from the master cylinder. Pics to follow when it isn't raining.

So that's the suspension done, brakes done, it has loads of carbon fibre bits, full termis plus dynojet and so on so it's done then ! :yoparty: Finally completed and it needs nothing else ! :woot:

Err, no the tank continues to swell so I need to sort that properly but the only problem is that 'properly' probably means a metal tank...

Good luck with the tank,I have the same problem with my S4RS. There are second hand tanks available but can be expensive.

I was sent this link from my cousin http://thetankshop.com/ but haven't pursued it yet and not sure in fact if they are still in operation.If you make any progress please let me know.

Kimbo :thumbsup:

[Darren69]

I'm glad OHAMotorsport looked after you. I really like dealing with them.
Not sure if you realised that with the Hel lines, you can rotate the banjos relative to the ends of the lines by gripping them firmly in two pairs of good pliers and gently but firmly twisting them round. It's very handy to be able to take the twist out of the lines and line the banjos up perfectly.

I've bought Titanium from Titan Classics; very good quality. I'm colluding with the owner to get the correct stainless or Ti R-clips made for the pad pins. Having only been able to find the correct size in BZP.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ducati-Monster-M900-Brembo-Goldline-TITANIUM-caliper-pad-pin-Totally-stainless/254491589421?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I also get on well with RSR Moto who stock some nice Ti bolts, again very good quality and good to deal with.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-Titanium-Cap-Allen-Socket-Head-Bolts-20-25-30-35-40-45-50-55-60-65-70mm/184347398190?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=692038869994&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

You could try these: -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/R-CLIPS-Brake-Pad-Pin-STAINLESS-1mm-1-2mm-1-5mm-BREMBO-BLUE-GOLD-SPOT-CALIPER/123935027481?hash=item1cdb1a7119:g:fnkAAOSwDdRdng1 z

I recently changed my pad pins to titanium ones, I think from the same place but I found the r clips on the old pins were already stainless, not sure if they were standard Brembo they looked ok and not damaged so I re-used them.

[Mr Gazza]

I suspect the original R-clips are stainless but mine were slightly magnetic. Not a definitive test for stainless, I know and it is a very strong magnet too.

Tell the truth I dropped one of the clips on the workshop floor and the naughty faeries scuttled off with it! That was the cue to get the Ti pins thinking they would come with new R-clips, but alas not!

I also bought some of the smallest size clips from the source you linked to, but even the smallest is too big for the Goldline pins and yet bizarrely too loose.

I got 1mm x 17mm in the end and they fit properly but I could only find bzp.

[Moco1961]

Good luck with the tank,I have the same problem with my S4RS. There are second hand tanks available but can be expensive.

I was sent this link from my cousin http://thetankshop.com/ but haven't pursued it yet and not sure in fact if they are still in operation.If you make any progress please let me know.

Kimbo :thumbsup:

I am sad to say my S2R 1000 tank has succumbed to the curse over the winter too ! Not swelling but what I can only describe as a rash.......... like all over the tank. When I took the cover off I thought it was condensation.

I have come to the same conclusion as you both, if you are interested I have contacted a guy in Italy who will oblige.....I am trying to make sense of import taxes at the moment before I place an order. let me know if you want details..... dont want to hi- jack the thread... sorry Anthony .

[Darren69]

I suspect the original R-clips are stainless but mine were slightly magnetic. Not a definitive test for stainless, I know and it is a very strong magnet too.

Tell the truth I dropped one of the clips on the workshop floor and the naughty faeries scuttled off with it! That was the cue to get the Ti pins thinking they would come with new R-clips, but alas not!

I also bought some of the smallest size clips from the source you linked to, but even the smallest is too big for the Goldline pins and yet bizarrely too loose.

I got 1mm x 17mm in the end and they fit properly but I could only find bzp.

It's weird since they clearly show the clips fitting the Brembo caliper but it does say 20mm and from what I can see most of the others are 20mm too.

[walkingpictures]

I am sad to say my S2R 1000 tank has succumbed to the curse over the winter too ! Not swelling but what I can only describe as a rash.......... like all over the tank. When I took the cover off I thought it was condensation.

I have come to the same conclusion as you both, if you are interested I have contacted a guy in Italy who will oblige.....I am trying to make sense of import taxes at the moment before I place an order. let me know if you want details..... dont want to hi- jack the thread... sorry Anthony .

Thanks Mike,I'm sure Anthony won't mind the thread hi-jack,it's a relevant topic.Yes,please let me know how you get on with the Italian guy,I'm still looking for an engineering solution when my very busy engineer friend gets time to check it out.

Kimbo

[Blah blah]

The hoses are fine and tbh I wouldn't be happy twisting the banjos, they are after all my brakes and have been made by people who know what they're doing. I don't need titanium pins (or nipples) as the calipers came with them, the bolts have been replaced with new plated steel (grade 12.9!) and are looking shiny.

No worries on the thread hi-jack about the tank, "tecknorace" in Italy is a name I have having searched, and there's a thread on here and other forums about the tank geoffduk (?) got for his monster that seems a bit lush.

it's just the £2k for a tank I'm struggling to hide from the wife, no, err justify :biggrin: as it'll mean I've spent more on upgrades to the suspension, brakes and tank than it cost to buy the thing in the first place. :eyepopping: Mind you, with all the changes I've made and those done by others, it's probably worthless now...:mand:

Anyway, if you factor in man maths, it'll cost about £1700 for a new plastic tank from Ducati that will then need to be sealed and may expand in the future so it'll probably cost the same as an alloy one in the long run...

[yellowfever]

Re, alu tank If we are talking about technorace in Italy, then following a very helpful exchange with Geoff on here to get some views and advice (he I think pioneered getting one from them). I ordered one, not with me yet but production very much underway all looking good so far. My S2R 1000 is a forever bike for me, tank issue not so bad on mine but it still spoiled my expensive custom paint job, so I’m doing what I can to upgrade it/future proof it whilst special parts etc are reasonably available... obviously it’s not cheap (luckily I’m in EU so not impacted by tax and import duties etc...) but if you’re going to keep your bike long term then it may be worth it to you to know the issue is sorted once and for all.

Cheers

David

[Moco1961]

David,

That’s the kiddy, from Geoffs post too!. I mailed them and they got back to me in a couple of hours.

Like you, mines a keeper so although it’s a huge hit there is no saying buying a replacement plastic one won’t do the same thing in the future.I had taken the precautions and it still failed.

I wonder if there are a few of us would they do a group discount :biggrin:

[slob]

Ride to Italy, swap tanks, sell original on Italian eBay?

[Moco1961]

Brilliant !!, not sure my existing tank would be worth very much though:biggrin:

[yellowfever]

Yeah Alu tank is a big ask, but frankly my custom paint job was not cheap, so for me getting that redone on a plastic tank only to risk it happening again was not such an appealing idea... hence getting alu tank. Will be a while before I get it painted and fitted (once it gets delivered) but this at least spreads the costs out and ensures I get alu tank whilst still available... I know many people spent years trying to find one/get one made, so didn’t want to miss the chance. Our bikes getting more niche as the years go by...

[Blah blah]

Anyway, the new brakes work but I think that the new pads (EBC) may take a bit of bedding in as they felt a bit 'dead' to start with but after 70ish miles I didn't notice them as much. I was still trying to feel what was going on at the front though so something else to get used to.

Lever travel wasn't anything excessive or even a concern so I'm going to stick with the master cylinder as that means a bit more in the kitty for the tank :yoparty:

[Nickj]

I am sad to say my S2R 1000 tank has succumbed to the curse over the winter too ! Not swelling but what I can only describe as a rash.......... like all over the tank. When I took the cover off I thought it was condensation.

I have come to the same conclusion as you both, if you are interested I have contacted a guy in Italy who will oblige.....I am trying to make sense of import taxes at the moment before I place an order. let me know if you want details..... dont want to hi- jack the thread... sorry Anthony .

Good luck with that .. as far as I could see when I looked at it you'll get to pay VAT on the item including the shipping cost and then some import duty on top of that. so figure a minimum of 20% and up to 30ish. For the stuff I was looking at it took the overall price well above what you could source in the UK, well where you could actually find what you were after.
The thought in the regs is that the supplier would add the VAT levy then using their newly set up account with IRS pay through that but I don't think many companies will do that unless they have a really substantial UK market as it involves lots of paperwork, submission of trading accounts financial details and other information.
If it was a whole bike then it's even more vague as you seem to have to pay extra on items that aren't standard and the valuation of these is made pretty arbitrarily.
F*****g 'free trade' mess

[Darren69]

It's 20% tax plus shipping. Brexit? What bright sparks voted for that? :(

[Darren69]

Knob ends, lol

[uncle duke]

Ordered a couple of bike related things from Germany recently & both were here within a week & no extra's to pay... was i lucky ? or is it a bit hit & miss ?

[Blah blah]

Turns out I've now had this for 5 years, and it's even better than when I bought it (which considering what I've done to it, it should be :mand:)

https://i.imgur.com/EWB5yN7.jpg

[Blah blah]

And the Monster now has some competition for my limiting riding time...

https://i.imgur.com/6nRPyWD.jpg

748 bored to 853, tweaked ECU, Termis, ohlins rear and K tech front etc etc

[slob]

looks lovely!

[350TSS]

853- best of both worlds

[Grumpy]

Unusual colour.
So it's handled like 748, but has the power of the 916?

[Mr Gazza]

That looks bloody gorgeous Anthony, but I can't make out what colour it is as the number boards are so big.. ;)
Shame my body won't fit those bikes! Great combination of power and nimbleness you have there.

[Blah blah]

It's a cornerspeed special, 853cc, the ECU has been tweaked so that it fuels the cylinders separately, alloy bodied ohlins etc etc. there are so many 'of their time' trick bits on the bike it makes my head hurt. It's a hell of a piece of kit.

Mot history is interesting as well as there's 10 years between the last 2...

Is it better than the S2r?

Well, I had an hour this afternoon to go out with the teenager for a blat and I took the S2r, there's a run this weekend so the Monster will come out again and if I want to spend a couple of hours flirting about, S2r every time.

However, if I go mad or if I'm chasing a friend on his (new) H2 kwak, then the 748 will be wheeled out (and the teenager will be left at home..!) :mand:

[Blah blah]

eek, almost 12 months since the last update and as the 748 has been used somewhat more than the Monster, the Mot had expired (last year) :look: so I took it in this morning and it passed with the normal advisory :mand:

However when I got home it decided to dump a load of oil from the filter housing. I had problems with a genuine filter a couple of years ago and I should have learnt my lesson. Time for another oil change I think, but it won't be a genuine filter this time.

[Blah blah]

Still got it, and now have a green tank, pillion cover, side panels and mudguard. The side panels and 'guard might not get used as I already have carbon ones (and the originals).

The teenager hates the colour but then it's not his bike so plans are to do some research into sealing it then buying lots of new gaskets (and perhaps a fuel pump?) and swap them over to see how it looks however funds are low at the moment (748 seat being painted as well as buying these, the car needs an MoT, as does the van which also needs the EGR sorting and I need to find out why the Mito keeps fouling plugs)

Other than that, a random picture from the other night

https://i.imgur.com/LqPgNrx.jpg

[slob]

… I need to find out why the Mito keeps fouling plugs…

not being thrashed hard enough

[Blah blah]

not being thrashed hard enough

That's what I keep telling him, but apparently that isn't the case :chuckle:

We've had it on the dyno and the air/fuel is pretty much spot on thoughout the rev range according to the dyno chap, plus a replated bore, new piston, rings, coil, HT, cap and plug and it persists...

[ColinS2R]

Curse of the plastic tank!!!!
Mines the same unfortunately…….
Have to decide whether to stick or twist.

[Blah blah]

I have bought another un-swollen tank and that has been sitting in the hall ever since getting dusty.

I was looking at lining / sealing it with but then life got in the way (and the teenager bought a Bimota BB1) so neither the S2r or the 748 have turned a wheel in anger for a couple of months.

And life is getting in the way again and I am doing my best to hold onto them both but we shall see...

[ColinS2R]

Life always seems to get in the way!!!

[Blah blah]

Another MoT, another advisory for noisy exhausts, (same as the 748 :D)

It's was strange riding it after so long though, then jumping on the 748, totally different beasts, both fun in their own way...

One problem I did have was a sticky clutch, pulled in, into gear and jumping forward, bit scary though and took a bit of pushing backwards and forwards to release it. Seemed alright after but something that I will have to have a look at at some point.

The only problem is that both bikes and all my tools are at a different house so not something I can just pop out and work on.

Owned for 7 years now, and still nothing that would tempt me to sell