Oil Change

[IpauloGTS]

Just about to do my first oil change on the M750 as although I was told it came serviced I had no receipt. Just a precaution, before getting it serviced and checked properly in a month or two.

Are there any top tips? I was thinking of trying Mobil 1 oil as it has done well in lots of different tests I've seen. They do a V-Twin 20-50 in the States but I don't know if it's available here? If not I was going to use the Racing 4T.

Cheers, Paul.

[CK & AK]

Alan uses the racing 4T in ours - and has also used the castrol equivalent too.

[gary tompkins]

I would have thought that 20/50 would be a bit heavy for a modern engine, especially at winter temperatures. I know some that have suffered from bad clutch slip on wet clutch engines (mainly jap fours) using Mobil1, so it may not be suitable for the M750.

I use Shell Advance in the 900ie, and have no complaints :)

[IpauloGTS]

I've tried to understand the world of oil in relation to my other Ducati which has always run on monograde 40 till I took the plunge to 20-50 mineral as I was told it was much better stuff.

As far as I can tell it is the lower figure that matters in the winter as it is this 'weight' when cold and then increases its viscosity to the higher number when it reaches a normal running temperature. This is why I had to be especially careful warming up the GTS on 40 grade in cold weather. Apparently all these figures are only guidelines and there are independent tests out there to say what oils really do - hence my interest in Mobil 1.

As air-cooled V-Twins (modern engine?) run quite hot it makes sense to my small brain to go for something that aims at 50 rather than 40 when hot. As for mineral v semi-synthetic v fully-synthetic I give up!

I may be miles from the truth here of course (not to mention dis appearing into a very dull world).

Paul.

[CK & AK]

Paul - you are totally right.
The lower number is for when the engine IS cold, so the oil is thinner - to circulate round the engine quicker. We have all seen the castrol advert - the growling engine when starting - that is very close to the truth.
Go for it - onlt time not to use fully synth is when running in, as you can get bore glazing, cos it lubricates too well.

HTIOH

Alan

[IpauloGTS]

Thanks for the replies.

I'll give the synthetic a go. I'd also heard not to use it for running in.

I'm already feeling quite good as I've had no symptoms of carb icing that I'd expected from others on the list (using any old unleaded with no addititives).

Better than that I've got the new Sargent seat installed and the riding position is transformed.


Paul.

[snakey]

to use semi-synthetic in my m750 . the reason given was that fully synthetic oil is no good for bikes with a wet clutch but is ok on dry clutch models, something to do with causing clutch drag or slip can't remember which, so I stay with castrol's semi synth that was recomended to my by riders who are a Ducati dealer and seem to know what they are talking about. :burnout:

Pete.

[spacemonkey]

I use the semi synth Castro GPS and it's very good.

Just been talking with Tony at Two Four Italia and he is rebuilding yet another 916 type engine that has been run on Castrol fully synth (5/40 I think?) that is worn to buggery as the stuff (in his words) is too thin for a twin. Make of that what you may..

[madfroger]

i thought ducati recommend shell ultra advance?

[NattyBoy]

oohhh bugger. Ive just bought some more Castrol fully synthetic (I think it was called 4T?) supebike stuff that I used on last years change...should I be changing it for GPS me thinks after reading the above ?? Only bought it today and unopened so advice/thoughts appreciated..also might be a bit cheaper (£30 for 4 litres at Halfords...jeez!)

Also..anyone got a spare sealing washer for the drain plug??...I was a bit naughty and didnt bother last time....Im still relativley new to DIY mechanics,,is this a neccesity every time or or is that the haynes book of lies just being over cautious ??

If it is a must and n-ones got one, where do I go..any old bike shop ???

Cheers
Nat

[A Yerbury]

they are designed to crush under pressure natty so a used one wont be much good! I think your priorieties are a bit back to front there, I would be more concerned with lack of washer than just one oil change with castrol.. :)

[NattyBoy]

Yep I know that mate!..I was after a new one !!!! Just reused the copper one last time as I was (at the time) selling it on and couldnt be arsed !!!).

Cheers
Nat

[A Yerbury]

sounds like the cad I bought mine from! no filter washer, no front sprocket clamp, no brake switch, no exhaust split ring (I know!....why? they are 11 quid fff f***s sake!) oh and the loom was not earthed!

[spacemonkey]

I bought the Superbike stuff too, but my Halfords gladly did a swap for the cheaper GPS @£20 and I had some other stuff too. As long as it is unopened they give you a month to do refunds etc. The washer can be annealed if you are a tight 'un. Just heat it with a blow torch til it glows cherry red then dunk it in water. This can make it reusable, but for the sake of a coupla quid... You could always try a motorfactor and see if they have something the same for pennies.
Oi, Yerbury, I didn't know you were in the Halifax Adverts?

[NattyBoy]

Cheers space..only thing is..realised after I posted I still had 1.5 ltrs left of the superbike stuff from last year and you cant mix it can you ??!!!

Dilemna continues..

Nat

[spacemonkey]

What is the weight of your superbike oil? If it is 10/40 I'd use it. The stuff I'm on about is 5/40 or something and it is the consistency of dishwater, hence the problems.

[IpauloGTS]

I found a couple of articles of interest about the oil issue. The first from a classic site where people worry even more about their precious engines and the second from the U.S. where people are not keen on being 'ripped off'.

http://www.realclassic.co.uk/oil030319.html

http://www.ducatimeccanica.com/oil.html

I've also gathered from a lot of bevel drive Ducati riders that the only way fully synthetic oil can cause a clutch to slip is if you go from this back to "trad" oil. Fully synthetic seems to be far superior in terms of lubrication. Semi-synth seems to be a way of producing a chaeper version with some of the benefits.

If I come a cropper with this I'll be sure to let you know.

Paul.

[spacemonkey]

You can always talk to the organ grinder himself.
Tony at Two Four Italia is on 01425 478555.
Good luck!

[944]

5/40 I think?) that is worn to buggery as the stuff (in his words) is too thin for a twin.


10/30, 5/40, 20/50 what ever the rating of the oil they are ALL the same viscosity at normal operating temperature.

Mike

[Blah blah]

When you do the oil, don't forget to do the sump filter as well as the oil filter... it looks like another drain plug on the side of the engine, but when you remove it, there's a plastic and metal filter attached. Unscrew it, and clean out the mesh (or it it like mine was, remove the loose sump filter from the insides of the engine where it had been rattling around for months, chuck in the bin, and buy another one)

[Nickj]

Use semi-synthetic on road bikes, full synthetic can make the clutch a bit slippy and of course is more expensive. In road use the difference in engine lubrication levels is marginal.
However used to use full synthetic in an XR280 which never seemed to hurt it despite the severe abuse it was put through.
Oil and what it does is odd, I remember some independent tests run on pre mix 2T years ago, one of the supermarket veggie oils came out ahead of stuff like Rocks 2T. It all depends who is doing the testing and what's being measured.