Exhaust bolts

[Robwesthead]

Hi all,

Managed to source a full Termi system, and attempted the install at the weekend.

Sprayed all the nuts & bolts a few times over the preceding days with a specialist WD40 penetrating release spray, then ran the engine up to temperature before attempting to loosen the four front nuts where the pipe attaches to the engine.

3 of the 4 turned no problem, but in true Ducati fashion ('Ducati; making mechanics out of motorcyclists since 1926'), the fourth nut rounded.

I have specialist sockets to remove rounded nuts, but subsequently want to source new nuts to replace them with (and the four at the rear join also).

Are these a specialist nut which I need to source from Ducati, or can I simply use a good quality stainless steel nut from elsewhere? Locking nuts with nylon threads advisable?

Any help much appreciated as always!

Cheers,

Rob

[bluestoesonnose]

From memory they're Copper nuts, certanly the ones on my 2004 S4R were, you can buy these from say Moto Rapido, or use stainless nuts and a ton of copperslip. I went with the ton of copperslip and stainless nuts and studs.

Cheers

[utopia]

I use stainless steel dome nuts, and a generous smear of copperslip.
BUT ......
You have to be extremely careful when fitting them to make sure that the studs don't bottom out in the domes before everything is fully tightened.
Also that there isn't so much copperslip that it causes a hydraulic lock in the domes.

I've always assumed that they get too hot for nylock nuts and the locking element would melt or burn.
I've never actually verified that though.

[Darren69]

Yea, I think the nyloc nuts would melt, probably better with some good quality stainless and some spring washers, with mucho copperslip. I have mine to do and bought some plus gas in readiness but have not started applying it yet. Copper nuts are all well and good but too soft and mine look like they would round if I so much as put a spanner near them, especially those on the front, the back ones don't get corroded so badly. Brass would be better than copper surely? My Laverda has brass exhaust nuts.

I'm not sure why exactly to use copper or brass rather than stainless in this day and age?

[slob]

Lots of suitable copper (plated) nuts available on eBay

[don_matese]

I don't bother saving mine and just start by shearing them off anyway :) saves the inevitable issue of rounding them.

[rollo22]

order a full set of Studs and Nuts.
Will be better in the long run

[Dukedesmo]

I use copper nuts as you've got a better chance of them not seizing or rusting away.

The studs rust though so I would advise new ones - one of mine disappeared, must've vibrated out...

[Albie]

They are pennies from ducati and nothing special if you wish to go there or eBay or an ironmongers

[Nickj]

Some of the Ducati supplied nuts seem to be odd pressed up things, still worked though.
The studs themselves have a horribly hard life (hot cold cycles and exposed to all the crap in the world), especially the front so stainless replacements are a really good option if you don't want to be dealing with a stick of rust in a few months

[damien666]

Good look with getting the system to line up/sit right. It seems very waggly(?)
It could do with another spring to hold the top can tight. I keep meaning to look into sorting this out. I've already welded the rear bracket and re drilled the mounting hole to try to tighten the mounting position.
Never enough time!

[Darkness]

Binx or deformed head nuts are a good heat proof solution provided you only use them once then replace. I picked up a handful from the local BMW car parts desk.

[Robwesthead]

Thanks all.

Why copper over stainless steel? What's the purpose of the copper slip, to prevent seizure and corrosion?

I'll see what I can get hold of in the New Year.

Appreciate the responses and Merry Christmas to all!

[sram]

Can thoroughly recommend Aerotight stainless lock nuts. Have used them on my car and everything on that has held up well over the last couple of years. They all still look new. Have just fitted a set to the Monster, hoping I will have the same luck on that.

Plenty of copperslip or your anti-seize of choice still recommended during assembly. Molyslip make some great stuff called ADF (http://www.molyslip.co.uk/products.php?prd=33) which, when applied to perfectly clean metal, will stick like glue and is an amazing corrosion protector and anti-seize solution. I usually use a tiny spray of this and then follow up with some nickelslip - in my years of dealing with crap rusty cars and bolts I've never had a nut or bolt that I've replaced/reinstalled seize later on.

[Drumnagorrach]

Symonds nuts ,a sort of all metal lock nut ,same srt of thind as airotight .