Rear Axle Nut Stuck

[boris]

Took the EVO in today for new tyres, I still had the original Pirelli's on. The last time the wheel was off was when there was a recall and it was replaced by Manchester Ducati. Bottom line - the local bike shop couldn't undo the nut. First off started with a breaker bar and an aluminium Ducati socket. No joy. Then added extension to b-bar and said socket began to flex :worried: The bike was on a single-side paddock stand on a bike lift at the time. Next, take bike off ramp and stand. Repeat process, no joy. Next try standard steel socket with breaker bar and extension. Before force applied, I'm on bike holding front brake on, mechanic 1 has hand pushed against r/h bar and stood on rear brake, mechanic 2 is wielding bar plus extension. All ready to go, force applied, (And M2 is a big lad)

Result - as it says on the tin, breaker bar breaks...

At this point I decided to call it a day before serious damage ensues. and consult the educated masses.

So 1, has anyone out there experienced this, and 2, how did you (and me) get round it? Thanks in advance..

[Dookbob]

I had this on an F4 MVAgusta, all the right tools would not budge it, my pneumatic torque gun powered from a 3HP compressor wouldn't,t touch it either. So I rode the bike up to the MOT garage that I use and they got it loose with a whacking great big 3/4" drive torque gun, even then it was stubborn to get it to move. So after I had changed my tyre I made sure that I set my torque wrench to exactly the torque specified and tightened it up. Then I tried to loosen it off again with the usual tools. Not a chance, so I ended up with a big tough looking steel heavy duty socket which I welded onto the end of a four and a half foot length of scaffold tube, that was the tool I used during my ownership of the bike. After that episode I reduced the torque setting for that wheel nut just in case I needed to undo it while I was away from home. Good luck with it, , hope this gives you an idea or two on your next move to free it off.

[JMH900sie]

Impact gun.

[rollo22]

From memory every surface needs a good smear of grease.
The nut has come off every time using a Clarke electric impact gun.

[buzzbomb]

I know that Ducati Manchester tighten the big nut on the single sided swing arm with a torque wrench and correct sized socket, I'm not certain which impact gun they use to undo the nut but DMC at Preston have a snap-on gun which I've used with great success.

I would also advise you to get a good quality socket as I've seen some really bad mangled up wheel nuts.

Best of luck...:thumbsup:

[chris.p]

Always use copperslip on the threads on wheel and sprocket side, works for me.

[garry]

firstly, those ally sockets are ****e, if you have one its now a paperweight.

good quality socket required, nip it to correct torque (cant remember off hand).

lightly grease on assembly, but to remove is an arse as well... good quality rattle gun, or as is said, 2 man job, and mahoosive breaker bar extension..

[Capo]

Some after market nuts are one piece, the taper is hard to break.
Use a two piece nut and spacer then you are only dealing with the torque.
I use this and can remove and tighten with out the use of a second person or scaffold tubes.

[Dukedesmo]

I've got a 916, had it 17 years and it's got the standard wheel nut and tapered spacer. I torque it to spec using a light coating of grease and have never had a problem with it being tricky to undo using just normal (non-powered) tools.

[jerry]

never hasd that problem with any of my dual sided swing arm bikes , but single sided swing arms can be a bugger and need use of my clarke electric impact gun to get off the nut even when torqued correctly ...

[utopia]

Single sided swingers eh ...whoever thought that was a good idea ?
But anyway, the only suggestion I can offer is, next time you have the huge torque applied and it aint shifting, try applying some sharp hammer blows to the nut in the direction of the spindle axis (via an ally drift/pad to prevent damage).
This "jarring" of the thread along its axis is often a useful technique for shifting stubborn nuts.

For lube on reassembly I would use black, molybdenum disulphide grease rather than copperslip.

Note that the above are comments from someone who has some engineering experience but zero experience of single siders.

[boris]

Thanks to you all for your replies. I've ordered a six-sided Cro-Mo socket, then the plan is to ask the local truck servicing shop if they can give it a whirl with one of their heavy duty impact guns. Sound advice about treating the threads before re-assembly, something I always do as a matter of course..

[Capo]

I have a socket from Speedymoto, it has a nose that fits into the bore of the wheel spindle, reducing the chances of the socket slipping off when the torque is applied.

[Dukedesmo]

I have a socket from Speedymoto, it has a nose that fits into the bore of the wheel spindle, reducing the chances of the socket slipping off when the torque is applied.

This is probably the best option but, if buying a 'normal' socket you will find that it has a chamfer/taper at the end to make it easier to get onto the nut and quite a large one on a 46mm socket (at least it is 46mm on a 916).

Given that the rear wheel socket nuts have very thin flats it is a good idea to machine the end of the socket flat to get the maximum amount of purchase on the nut as this helps stop it slipping and damaging the nut.

[damien666]

+1 for the speedymoto socket. Used a years old 1/2" drive taskmaster impact gun and a Lidl compressor, no probs.

[Darren69]

I've had the DP nut on my 748 for years and that's one piece. Never had a problem with it but it is a bit of a Jeezus nut to undo without power tools. Always use plenty of grease on reassembly.

[boris]

Thanks for the pointers to SpeedyMoto. If I don't have any luck with the CroMo socket I've ordered then that'll be the next step.
However by the time it takes to get one though, the Salt will probably be down in this part of the world and that'll be it for me..

[boris]

My rear wheel nut is now off.

The socket I ordered (Laser 5667) took best part of 10 days to arrive instead of the 3-5 promised. Took the bike down to the local garage and they attacked it with an insane sized impact gun. It just rattled away to no effect. Cue artic sized breaker bar. After a few seconds grunting the nut eased free. Relief! I'm well impressed with the socket, it took all the drama thrown at it and shows barely a hint of being out of the packet. Certainly seems well made, and at a good price too. Thanks again to everyone for the tips and pointers..