Rose Joints

[Flip]

Ok next on my list as my bike is given a bit of a refresh is to replace the suspension hoop and gear linkage rod Rose Joints.

I know I have done both of these in the past but the company I bought them from no longer trades so places to buy from please and even better if someone has the part numbers to hand that I need to order to save me going through years of receipts to find them.

Cheers chaps!!

[Rascall]

I just replaced all mine from

http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/

Russell

[Mr Gazza]

I got my first ones from the local bearing shop.
One year on I bought replacement ones from McGill..There is a chioce of quality and price.!

They also do little rubber boots for the joints. Something I am going to try this year to keep the grit out of my torque rod joints.

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/rod-end-accessories-metric-sizes-rubber-sealing-boots-metric/

Hoop...2 x M10 x 1.5 right hand thread. https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m10-x-1-5mm-right-hand-male-xmrm10-ultra-high-performance-rod-end-93/

Gear change 1 x left hand and 1 x right hand M6 https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m6-x-1mm-right-hand-male-xmrm6-ultra-high-performance-rod-end-114/
https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m6-x-1mm-left-hand-male-xmlm6-ultra-high-performance-rod-end-115/

Brake torque rod (For full floater) 2 x M8 Right hand. https://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/m8-x-1-25mm-right-hand-male-xmrm8-ultra-high-performance-rod-end-90/

Foot-note.. I tried the rubber boots and couldn't make them work, others have apparently had better luck.

[DrD]

Gazza
Thanks - my choices probably
Choices: http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/male-rod-ends-metric-sak-t-teflon-lined-high-performance-series/

[Dukedesmo]

Gazza
Thanks - my choices probably
Choices: http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/male-rod-ends-metric-sak-t-teflon-lined-high-performance-series/

I've got these on my suspension hoop and they appear to be of very good quality.

N.B. you will need to remove the 10mm - 8mm reducing bush from the old fitting (or get new) as 10mm rod ends have 10mm holes and the bike requires 8mm bolts.

[Mr Gazza]

I went for these;

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/male-rod-ends-metric-xm-racing-series-chromoly-kevlar-ultra-high-performance/

With rubber boots, in a "fit once" philosophy.

[Dirty]

Mcgill for me too. Excellent service.

[gary tompkins]

I've used McGill's parts a lot for my various gear change mods over the years

Great service and good value

[SteveM900]

I also used McGill, but if you buy female joints for the hoop and a length of 10mm studding you can then raise the ride height for only a couple of quid extra!
Cut a suitable piece of stud, screw into the hoop, a locknut then the rose joint and you can jack up the required amount. You may need two locknuts each side, depending on how high you go.

[Wildfire]

Got mine from Orbic Bearings (local shop) Stealer wanted £30 each. Cost me about £5 each in the end.

[gary tompkins]

Not all rod ends are the same quality. Some of the cheap imported ones are total crap, and will fail under high load application like suspension links. It often pays to spend a little extra (£20+) and avoid an unexpected trip to the local A&E dept

[Mr Gazza]

[QUOTE=Mr Gazza;504420]...........They also do little rubber boots for the joints. Something I am going to try this year to keep the grit out of my torque rod joints.

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/rod-end-accessories-metric-sizes-rodobal-rubber-sealing-boots-metric/

In case anyone was thinking of trying these rubber booties...Don't bother.

I just tried to fit them on my hoop and torque rod joints. Getting them over the rose joints is a challenge but I got the hang of that with a little bit of lube to help them over.

The trouble is when I tried to tighten them into position with the through bolt in the ball, The boot or gaiter really had nowhere to go, and not only distorted enough to potentialy let water into the boot, but pinched enough to restrict the movement of the rose joint.

I did think of carefully cutting off the tubular bits either side of the ball, but then I think it would just not seal properly and let water and grit in, which would then be held there and be a worse situation than having no protection.

I'll just have to put that one down to experience...Unless anyone knows how to fit these things properly?

[Albie]

What thread is needed as in m10 righthand x 1.0, 1.25 or 1.5 and the same for the gear change m6 x ? without me measuring tomorrow

[tricky73]

Albie I purchased these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180765443779?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161251888464?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380909479418?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Hope that helps

[DrD]

So the Hoop are 1.5mm thread and gear change 1.00mm thread.

[Dirty]

Yes I think those are what I got. The only issue I have with them is that the new McGill M6 RJs are huge in comparison to the originals.

[Albie]

Yes I think those are what I got. The only issue I have with them is that the new McGill M6 RJs are huge in comparison to the originals.

I guess that is something I can live with knowing should be stronger not that they have much load . Thanks for the advice and ordering a full set with new rear wheel bearings. Front look new and sealed and run perfect. Rears on mine look shabby and have definite play.

[Albie]

Albie I purchased these

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/180765443779?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And these
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161251888464?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380909479418?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Hope that helps

That's great info. Thanks

[jerry]

Gazza i also wasted money on the rubber boots but in Ducati application for the rear hoop they are a waste of time ,, but seem to fit with some mods ok on the gear change

[WAB78]

Please forgive the very daft question but I don't have much knowledge about rose joints.

Having swapped to rear sets, I am trying to relocate the rear caliper torque arm. Is there a rose joint that would maintain the M8 thread (going into the torque arm), but would accept an M10 bolt (going into the tapped hole in the engine casing)???

[Mr Gazza]

By the M10 tapped hole in the engine. Do you mean one of the lower footrest hangar mounting points?

If so, then I don't think it would be a good idea to use this point for the torque rod.

You will probably have the original thick steel bracket, with two 10mm and one 8mm hole, that sat behind the footrest hangar to mount the forward torque arm rose joint.

This places the forward mount in the ideal position for the geometry of the torque arm to work as it does....Note that the SS models use the same bracket and not any of the redundant 10mm holes (Redundant on an SS as far as mounting footrests goes).

It's no accident that the rod is mounted where it is and that the goemetry has remained unchanged from the original version on the 888....I would advise not to change it.

By all means make a new bracket with the same hole juxtapositions, in an exotic alloy or composite and use fancy fasteners...But don't think outside the box......The box is there for a reason....:chuckle:

[WAB78]

Righto Sir, that's me told!! :D

I appreciate the advice mate so thank you for the info. I will stick with the original bracket set up and go from there.

Thanks again.

[RossObey01]

N.B. you will need to remove the 10mm - 8mm reducing bush from the old fitting (or get new) as 10mm rod ends have 10mm holes and the bike requires 8mm bolts.

Sorry to pull up an old thread, but any idea where I'd get the reducers mentioned above? Noticed when I pulled my swing arm off there weren't any, so it was just a 8mm bolt floating about in the 10mm rose joint. I see McGill do these, but not sure they're the same thing?

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/rod-end-accessories-metric-sizes-high-misalignment-reducers-metric/

[Dukedesmo]

Sorry to pull up an old thread, but any idea where I'd get the reducers mentioned above? Noticed when I pulled my swing arm off there weren't any, so it was just a 8mm bolt floating about in the 10mm rose joint. I see McGill do these, but not sure they're the same thing?

http://www.mcgillmotorsport.com/rod-end-accessories-metric-sizes-high-misalignment-reducers-metric/

The pictures look wrong on the McGill page but 10mm to 8mm wouldn't look like that pic so it maybe the correct part? Otherwise you'd probably need to get them from Ducati. (or get them made? The only ones I've seen are the originals from the bike.

[Flip]

Have a look here:

http://www.ducati.com/services/maintenance/index.do

Download the 2001 750 model parts catalogue here and go to page 122, Item 11, phone Luke or Craig in the parts department on 01962 873981 and double check it is the same part number: 712.1.008.1A for your year bike and don't forget to ask for your 10% UKMOC discount when paying- simples!!!

http://www.motorapido.co.uk/

[RossObey01]

Ducati part number is: 712.1.008.1A. I will get a price and update.

Also found this, which is 8mm ID 10mm ED, 12mm long and PTFE lined. I think the rose joints are 14mm long, so this is slightly short but should be fine?

http://www.bearingshopuk.co.uk/gb0812dx-glacier-bush/

Edit: You beat me to it Flip!

I've also messaged McGills to see if they offer a suitable alternative.

[Flip]

Edit: You beat me to it Flip!

Ha ha!

No worries, give Moto Rapido a call in the morning and if they're in stock you'll have them Saturday (don't ask me how they do it but they do 9 times out of 10) and they will work absolutely fine with the McGills rose joints and original bolts- although it might be worth replacing those too if they have suffered not being held properly because of the missing bushes.