Wheel removal help please

[Stiggles]

Hey guys,

I'm after some help with regards to getting the front and rear wheels off my Monster 796

I'll be needing new rubber soon and I've never had to take them off, so hoping for some guidance so I can do it myself and save a little money

What tools do I need and what torque setting should the nuts go to etc etc

Any help is greatly appreciated!

Rich

[Nickj]

796, single sided swinging arm.

The carrier end / swinging arm side needs 115ft/lbs and its a 41mm socket
The wheel side needs 129ft/lbs and its a 46mm socket

So you need
a suitable stand (ABBA et al),
a torque wrench with suitable range
a 46mm socket (Oberon do a nice 'special' tool as do others on ebay)

Essentiall undo the big nut, the wheel comes off and leaves the carrier (brake and chain) behind. Reverse to refit after cleaning, inspecting regreasing as needed.

I don't know of anyone near you with the same kind of bike that might have the tools already, maybe someone will pop up.

[Stiggles]

Thats brilliant thank you!

So I won't need the 41mm socket yet if all I'm doing is removing the rear wheel?

That seems simple enough, is the front wheel a little more tricky? What's needed for it?

I'm going to buy a 46mm socket and if the front is bigger than the ones I already have I'll need to buy one for it too.

I'd rather have the tools myself anyway just to be able to do it when needed etc :)

[Nickj]

Front is errrr not sure what size.
So first you need a second stand, the backs up on its stand then you lift the front, For the front the options are one that fits at the base of the headstock (this also lets you do things with the forks) or one that fit around the bottom of the forks. Both lift the front end up.

There are a few more hassles though as the calipers get in the way. Usually you remove them, two hex's and slide them off the disk(s). I've found the caliper bodies are a tight fit with the wheel so remove the pads to give loads of wiggle room. Once off the calipers can safely dangle on the hydraulic lines or hang from a bit of string if that worries you at all.
This is also an opportunity to give the wheel and calipers a good clean.

Undo nut, undo pinch bolts, slide out axle and the wheel is out.

Stands are, when you need them, worth their weight in gold but a PIA to store otherwise.
If you plan on doing things to the bike then you should get some and some tools, several, manyyyyy.
Tools are also things of great wonder and awe, is it possible to have enough I wonder, good sockets though not neccesarily 'snap on' prices (expensive as you pay for lifetime replacement and global advertising) but not poundland quality. Hex's, ball end and plain as keys, 1/2 socket fit and some with t-bars. Screwdrivers and hammer through drivers. Then the odd special tool you may need that usually ends up as a collection of strange shaped items you used once or twice years ago but you've got to keep 'just in case'.

Get a BIG trayed tool box

So the front is easy as long as you can lift the front wheel off the ground, no problem once you have a set of stands.

[pink and white]

28 mm scoket for front axle nut

[utopia]

On the subject of raising the front end....

Before you invest in a front paddock stand, or headstock stand, check out this thread on the "other" forum.
Cheap, cheerful and mega effective, it allows you to remove the complete front end if necessary, including the yokes.

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/forum/threads/abba-stand-best-safest-way-to-get-the-front-wheel-up.17578/

Or, as a development of this, search for caravan support stands on ebay.
They're like extra tall axle stands with a screw adjustment for height, and are available in various heights.
A couple of those and a beefy bar to go through the frame just behind the headstock and you're sorted, I reckon.
This autumn I will be constructing something similar using my old faithful "worm and wheel" srew jacks and some suitable extension tubes.

Or, if your garage has a beefy beam somewhere handy, Machine mart do a little chain hoist for about £50, which looks quite handy and has the advantage that the bike can't fall off

[Stiggles]

Front is errrr not sure what size.
So first you need a second stand, the backs up on its stand then you lift the front, For the front the options are one that fits at the base of the headstock (this also lets you do things with the forks) or one that fit around the bottom of the forks. Both lift the front end up.

There are a few more hassles though as the calipers get in the way. Usually you remove them, two hex's and slide them off the disk(s). I've found the caliper bodies are a tight fit with the wheel so remove the pads to give loads of wiggle room. Once off the calipers can safely dangle on the hydraulic lines or hang from a bit of string if that worries you at all.
This is also an opportunity to give the wheel and calipers a good clean.

Undo nut, undo pinch bolts, slide out axle and the wheel is out.

Stands are, when you need them, worth their weight in gold but a PIA to store otherwise.
If you plan on doing things to the bike then you should get some and some tools, several, manyyyyy.
Tools are also things of great wonder and awe, is it possible to have enough I wonder, good sockets though not neccesarily 'snap on' prices (expensive as you pay for lifetime replacement and global advertising) but not poundland quality. Hex's, ball end and plain as keys, 1/2 socket fit and some with t-bars. Screwdrivers and hammer through drivers. Then the odd special tool you may need that usually ends up as a collection of strange shaped items you used once or twice years ago but you've got to keep 'just in case'.

Get a BIG trayed tool box

So the front is easy as long as you can lift the front wheel off the ground, no problem once you have a set of stands.

I don't think theres ever enough tools tbh!!

I have a Draper ratchet set and a 1/2" torque wrench along with various screwdrivers and allen/torx keys, I bought the chain tool for chain adjustment lol now just the 28mm/41mm and 46mm sockets, amazon seem to be good for finding stand alone sockets

Are there any specific torque settings I should be aware of on the front, or will most of them be hand tight bar the wheel nut?

Thanks again for the help! :biggrin:

28 mm scoket for front axle nut

Thanks :thumbsup:

[DrD]

Calliper, headstock and axle have have specified Torque vales
- some are online some in downloadable manuals.

[Dirty]

Or, as a development of this, search for caravan support stands on ebay.
They're like extra tall axle stands with a screw adjustment for height, and are available in various heights.
A couple of those and a beefy bar to go through the frame just behind the headstock and you're sorted, I reckon.
This autumn I will be constructing something similar using my old faithful "worm and wheel" srew jacks and some suitable extension tubes.
f

I used a pile of breeze blocks and bricks with my normal axle stands and an iron bar :)

[Stiggles]

One last question guys, what size torn is used for removing the discs?

I'm not sure if the place I'm having the tyres changed needs the disc off and want to be sure, the biggest torn I have is 40 and its just slightly too small.

[rollo22]

They normally change tyres with the discs on.......