Moving an M900 in a Van

[Nasher]

Hi all

I'm hoping to pick up a nice M900 in a couple of weekends, but will be doing it as part of a 'round Robin' in a hired Van.
I have to deliver my old Z1000, then pick up the M900 which isn't roadworthy at the moment.
I'm also collecting a boat I've loaned to a museum for the past few years. It breaks into three sections, the middle one being the longest at 8 feet so a bit longer than the bike.

The only van I've ever moved bikes around in was owned by a friend who used it to move his motocross bikes around in, so it had several tie-down points welded to the floor.

Does anyone have any tips to secure the bike?
Anyone know which particular vans have built in tie-down points?
I'm going to get on the phone to a couple of hire companies tomorrow, but thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks

Nasher.

[slob]

Most transit sized hire vans will have tie down hoops in the floor, check when you call them

http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/562189/Luggage/Tie-Downs-and-Straps/Bike-It

you'll want a ramp or scaffolding plank and probably a mate too

[Flip]

You will almost certainly need a mate to help you get a Monster into most vans if only to steady it while you make the 'step up' into the van itself.

I hired a van for my first season racing (it got a pain taking it back after a long drive home so I ended up buying one in the end) and it is definitely worth asking for tie down anchor points when you book as I found that hire companies tend to 'loose them' from some vans and have to borrow them from other vans if you need them.

As Slob says you'll need a ramp or good size wooden plank to wheel it up and then once inside ideally a rear paddock stand so it is upright.

I push my bike all the way in to wedge the front wheel against the bulkhead before using standard straps to secure to the front floor anchor points and around the lower Yoke (taking care not to trap any wires/cables etc.). I pull them tight to compress the forks a little and then I use the mid point floor anchors and secure the straps from there to the frame somewhere around the footrest mounts.

Something like this:
http://i1372.photobucket.com/albums/ag329/fluke900/Pembrey2012Van_zps9210ba0e.jpg (http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fluke900/media/Pembrey2012Van_zps9210ba0e.jpg.html)

[StevieL]

Brought my M900ie back from Doncaster in a Peugot van when I bought it, I use a builders deal cut in half and place the two halves side by side to form the ramp up into the van, you wheel the bike up one deal and walk up the other, push right forward to the bulkhead and secure with two ratchet straps. Use a cable tie to hold the front brake on and you should be fine, travelled back to Norfolk as sweet as you like atb Steve

[Nasher]

Thanks guys.

I have an 8 foot length of 8 x 2 joist that I'll be using as a ramp, and will have help at both ends. I'm more worried about loading and unloading the old Z1000 MkII as it's got to be so much heavier than the M.

The tip about jamming it up against the bulkhead is good, that should make a real difference.

I have various ratchet straps and being into boats have a garage full of ropes, I just need to ensure the van has the tie down points which I'm pleased to see you guys thing it should have.

I was wondering about using my paddock stand, is it really going to be more stable perched up higher than on the side stand?

Nasher

[MikeEsholt]

I moved my S2R 800 down from Yorkshire to Berkshire in a transit.

Ramp up to van. Park the van against a high kerb to reduce the height.

Park bike up tight against the bulkhead, in gear. Side stand down.

I used two rachet straps from handlebar to roof and back to rear grabs on both sides. This suspended the bike and prevented any movement side to died.

It didn't move an inch.

[Dookbob]

I wouldn,t ever move a bike in a van or on a trailer with a paddock stand under it, that,s not what paddock stands are designed to cope with.

[Dennis menace]

I have used a Luton with tail gate lift to move a Monster and Harley. Easier than a ramp. I secured the headstock in the corner of the van using ratchet straps and lots of blankets. I also secured the rear wheel with ratchet straps. Got both bikes home safely in 200 mile round trip. I agree you need someone to help steady the bike on the tail lift but the seller might to do that. Paddock stand might help secure the rear wheel more firmly for tie down or ratchet straps. Van cost me £70 for the day plus fuel. Bargain but I live 'up north', well the Midlands.

[jonzi]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z2EfBPgwi8E

All you need to know right there in that video

[pptom]

Monsters are very easy to tie down because of the trellis frame, moved mine and my old 900ss loads of times. Always load bikes by myself too, but I suppose I should have some help for safety. Getting up the ramp is much easier if you can park on an incline so the angle is less.
Front wheel straight and up to the bulkhead and just one ratchet strap each side on the frame above the rear pegs area going forwards, so it pulls the bike down and towards the bulkhead - I had tie downs about 3/4 of the way down the van. Bikes have always been rock solid + it's very simple to do.
Always use the ratchet straps in tandem so they are pulling against each other - don't try to use one from one side of the van, over the bike to the other as it will always allow some movement and slip. Hook onto the van tie down, strap goes round the bike frame and put the second hook on the same tie down as the first hook, tighten a bit, same the other side and ratchet them down - hey presto, job done.
Found this out when transporting my enduro bike - if you went over a bump mid corner, the suspension would compress, loosening the strap and the bike would gradually start to go over. Can't happen with the opposing straps.
Try it, you'll be surprised how solid it is, if in doubt chuck another pair of straps on the front end, but I don't think you'll need to.

[Darkness]

If using an 8' length of 8x2 as the ramp you'll need to be careful of ground clearance as you drop the front wheel into the van: you don't have anything like the clearance of an MXer. If the exhaust header catches it tries to tip you sideways off the ramp, just as you get to the interesting bit.
Finding a high kerb to raise the bottom end of the ramp helps, as Mike Esholt notes.
I jam the front wheel into the front corner, behind the driver, with a ratchet strap from the bottom corner tie down to the bottom yoke [Compessing the front suspension a bit] and another from top corner to the top yoke. That traps the front end in place and only need another pair of ratchets [Or string] to keep the backend from hopping about. That's in a VW Transporter with full bulkhead.

[Nasher]

Thanks again guys, all good stuff.

I've just booked a van for the trip with a very helpful local company who have asked me to call them a couple of days before and they'll add some extra tie down points.

Getting both bikes in and out is still a bit of a concern.
The van bed is 11 feet long, so I'm considering building a 3 or 4 foot wide ramp that length from timber that I can slide in and out alongside the bike and put the boat on top of.
If it's that wide I'll be able to walk the bikes in and out a bit easier. Unfortunately neither of them are running at the moment so can't be ridden in.
Running ratchet straps from the ramp to the rear tie down points it will stop it moving backwards.

I feel an over-engineered Forth bridge substitute coming on:biggrin:

Nasher.

[Darkness]

I feel an over-engineered Forth bridge substitute coming on:biggrin:

Nasher.

There's no such thing as 'over-engineered': it works or doesn't.

Just some designs are more easy to use, sustainable, affordable, pretty.............etc.

What's the Architect's stance Bex?

[hhmunro]

I am always wary of putting the bike behind a person, especially if that person is me...
Should you hit something, or something hit you, and you stop more abruptly than you would normally chose, it is worrying enough without the thought of your bike trying to mount you from behind...

[Darkness]

I am always wary of putting the bike behind a person, especially if that person is me....

That's where the full bulkhead comes in handy. The downside to the total separation is that you worry about all the creaks and rattles from the back.....

[pptom]

Ah yes, that leads me to another top tip - do a couple of miles to let it all settle, then pull over and check everything is still tight.

[Flip]

I wouldn,t ever move a bike in a van or on a trailer with a paddock stand under it, that,s not what paddock stands are designed to cope with.

To be fair bikes aren't really designed to be put in a van- that's why they have engines !!:chuckle:

However, without any form of stand on my race bike a paddock stand works perfectly (either a homemade 'under the footrest style' or the more conventional lift using 'cotton reels on the swing arm) and I wouldn't hesitate to do the same with the Monster for a few reasons-

Suspension can't 'settle' or compress by bumps in the road causing the straps to loosen and you get an even pull from both sides of the bike. Personally I would avoid the ratchet straps if you do use the side stand as on a Monster the stand bolts directly to the sump and you can easily put a lot of force through that using ratchets which will be multiplied by said bumps and when Ducati tell you to not even sit on the bike while on it's stand as it can cause 'irreparable damage' I wouldn't want an oily mess on the carpet in my van (Oh and a broken bike of course!).

My van has a half height bulk head so I can easily keep an eye to see what rattles in the back and I would be more worried that if my bike joined me in the front having had to stop quickly where on earth my engine would be as it is normally right in front of it under the passenger seats.

[Nasher]

So, ramp built, did I mention I'd probably overdo it a bit:D

Measured up the van on Friday, Joists will sit on the step with the ply face sitting just on the loadbed.
Will put some holes in near the top so I can run some ratchet straps between the ramp and tiedown points in the van so it can't slide backwards.

Can't wait until next Saturday now.

Nasher

http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15886/Ramp_1.jpg
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15886/ramp_2.jpg
http://www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/15886/ramp_3.jpg

[lewis]

Nice job on the ramp, belt and braces approach :D

[Darkness]

Will put some holes in near the top so I can run some ratchet straps between the ramp and tiedown points in the van so it can't slide backwards.

Sliding is a bigger risk when bringing the bike back down the ramp: the back suspension lifts as the weight of the bike comes off the van, pulling the van from under the ramp, plus there's the temptation to slow things down with the monster brakes so that bike doesn't stop, but the ramp comes with it.

It may appear you are making things a bit more complicated than they need to be, but it's better to be confident you know what's going to happen and how rather than waiting for inspiration when the bike is half out and all that's stopping it is your will power.

:spin::spin:

[Nasher]

It may appear you are making things a bit more complicated than they need to be,

You're not related to Mrs Nasher by any chance?

Nasher.