Chains....Thoughts.

[Mr Gazza]

I just bought a can of Putoline Chain wax as a little prezzy for for a mate who rides off road bicycles.
It is the equivilent of the old Linklyfe melt grease for chains, which is no longer available apparently.
It got me remembering about my antique tin of Linklyfe at the back of the workshop. I used to do all my non O-ring chains with that for many years...Great fun cleaning off the chain in my homemade washtank and watching with great pleasure as the fluid sine waves went down the clean dangled chain as I mindlessly waggled the drips off..:biggrin:

The sine waves would be only very slightly damped after the melt grease had done it's stuff, but the faint jangle of the all the links was gone and the chain could be replaced with the wheel in the same place as before but all the slack taken up by the grease inside each pin...Lovely job...Good for another 1000miles.

I recently had the chain off the Monster during the Winter re-fit, and gave it a bit of a dry clean on the bench, then gave it a careful lube up with PTFE chain spray.
I was somewhat alarmed to find that no fluid waves appeared when I dangled the refreshed chain in the air and gave it a wiggle..!
In fact most of the links were very stiff and held their positions momentarily, making a ziggy zaggy thing far from a nice slinky snake.:freak:

The chain has done 750 miles and I have kept it loobed with "Kin good" PTFE chain spray throughout. It's a DID "X" ring chain.
I just put it down to the drag of the "X" rings, and no way could I get it sufficiently loobed to make it nice and free like a non O-ring chain.

Seems to me like a lot of drag and wieght going into a simple thing like a chain, and a bit of wasted horsepower too. Probably some unwanted vibes there also?

So.. Two questions, 1) is there a better chain lube that I can use that will get into those X-rings and make them slippier?
2)...Bit more involved...Would it be possible, or realistic, to use a non O-ring chain of suitable size (520 I think?). This would involve the use of an old fasioned split link, so that I could fetch it off for dunking in the Linklyfe every so often.

Just wondering what the issues would be. Availability?
The bikes I used to run, never exceeded 49bhp and the Monster is, what, about 80ish...Would that be the problem?
I know folk get scared at the mention of a split link these days, but surely things must have moved on by now, knowing the constant desire for a better mousetrap.

Do racing bikes use sealed chains these days? if so what do they lube them with?

Just my thoughts....I sometimes wonder if modern technology is an improvement on the old...My old fasioned chains used to run smoothly for thousands of miles.

Expand.............

[Dukedesmo]

I wouldn't use a split link on a Monster, my Monster chewed the rear sprocket up in a couple of thousand miles (was slightly out of alignment), the same kind of alloy sprocket that's been on my 916 for about 4 years and still looks good, the 916 also makes 30hp more than the Monster (but does have a wider 525 chain/sprocket setup).

The way the Monster makes it's power is not very chain friendly and I had a split link chain break at the link once on a KTM 500 (MX bike) that 'only' made around 60hp, albeit 60 fairly wild horses.

Also the implication of a chain break on a Ducati can be catastrophic if it goes through the engine casings, not to mention the risk of crashing.

I'm not convinced however on these dry chain lubes, I've been using them for some years and chains do get tight spots. Last year I got a freebie bottle of Renthal chain lube, which is a sticky oil and it seems to keep the chain smoother, so I may be going back to old-school oil rather than dry lube, at least every so often.

I'll just have to clean my wheel more often, good thing it's black... ;)

[Capo]

The purpose of the x ring is to retain the lubricant between the pin and the bush and to prevent contamination from the outside. What you are actually lubricating with sprays etc is the bush/roller interface.

There are non O ring race chains available.

With split links these days the side plate has to be pressed on.

[utopia]

I remember the precarious journey outside from the kitchen stove with a shallow tin of hot linklyfe held by the rim with two pairs of pliers. It was amazing how thin the stuff went when heated as it was virtually solid when cold.
These days I use a scotoiler, so I never have to do anything beyond keeping the reservoir topped up.
Not only is this obviously massively simpler but more importantly I know that at each and every single instant while I'm riding the chain has just been freshly lubed, rather than being subjected to the fluctuating lube regime of aerosol wax being applied every few hundred miles.
Of course you have to live with the splatter though. I'm currently planning to graft on a rear sprocket guard (from a Hyper) to catch a bit more of it.
But my original chain shows no sign of wear and has required the minimum of adjustment during its 13,000m life so far.......and that's running at a 10mm misalignment from new, as I recently discovered.
I've just changed the chain though, as I've fitted a slightly bigger rear sprocket.
When I did so, I went with a split link rather than rivet. It only has to deal with 60 odd bhp from the 750, but I think that there is probably little outright strength difference between a split and a riveted link anyway, with the extra reliability of a rivet link being down to reduced/controlled fitting procedures. With careful fitment I have no concerns about it letting go......but I do also have the reassurance of a crankcase saver for peace of mind.
I did notice though, that these days the split link cover plate seems to be a slight interference fit on the pins, rather than the loose fit that I'm familiar with from the past, and requires the use of the same fitting tool as the rivet links.
I always used split links on my 80 odd bhp ZI back in the day too.....which also got non o-ring replacement chains bought cheaply at the local Renolds stockist.
I don't think that the O-rings contribute a significant amount to power loss though, and so for me the ideal solution is a virtually maintenance free combo of x-ring chain and constant tiny dribble of nice, low-viscosity scotoil.

[slob]

I've seen at least one DD racer who used a plain roller chain. He took it off a huge roll and it was so cheap he could replace it every meeting. Almost no friction compared to a sealed chain. Much easier not to lose 3BHP than try to make it on a 53BHP bike. All fine on a race bike but I wouldn't the extra maintenance hassle on my road bike.

[Darren69]

I use scotoil on both mine even though I don't have the oiler fitted, both chain and sprokets still look good. The DID X on my 748 has done close to 10k with no visible wear to chain or the renthal sprokets. Monster has gold x ring with talon sprokets and has done about 6 k in my ownership. I think I've only had to adjust either more than a few times. I just give them a wipe down and re-oil a few drops between the sideplates every 500 miles or so.

[Dirty]

S'pose I should oil my chain one day

[Darren69]

I would, a poorly maintained chain can rob as much as 10% of your bikes power!

[Dirty]

Dam, that's almost a horse power! :)

You're right, it's on the list now.

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks for your thoughts guys and to Dirty...:chuckle:

I have digested what you have all said and can't disagree with a word of it.

I figured that the Scotoiler would get a mention, and I have indeed considered one over the years. I'm not really quite sure what has put me off them. Maybe the it's the amount of mess that they are capable of producing, or the difficulty in setting them up to lubricate sufficiently without over doing it. I seem to recall the need for a 12volt supply when I looked into it some considerable years ago, possibly that was a problem on the bike I was running at the time...I must investigate the idea again, I dare say they have come on a bit since I last looked anyway.

Two other things interest me, that I would like to know more about. One is the crankcase saver. What does it look like, how does it fit, how much and from where??

The other is the Third Millenium split link. If it is meant to be pressed together does that mean that it is not easily taken apart again? Does it still employ a removable spring clip?

You have not managed to completely talk me out of trying a non O-ring chain, as my riding habits these days would easily accomodate a 600 mile or so re-greasing interval.
I always felt that the Linklyfe melt grease was such a good and thorough way to lube my chains, more like reconditioning really.

Maybe the "Kin good" PTFE spray will be the first thing to 'kin go.!
I only bought it to make sure I could still see the Gold links on my new chain, but I think a thin anti fling oil spray will be better and I always wipe the outside clean anyway...No good lubing that bit.!

[Dirty]

I've got a crank case saver but I had trouble fitting it so it's still on the shelf. There just was not enough space between the front sprocket and the case. Some say they only fit with a 14 tooth, others that there should be enough room. I'll have another go soon, with a bigger hammer :)

If I'm successful it will look like this

http://i109.photobucket.com/albums/n61/santav10/Ducati%20900SS/DSC_6517.jpg

Actually was just talking to Pomp the other day about getting a new chain myself. Will probably do a sprocket change at the same time. So many things on the list!

[Dukedesmo]

One is the crankcase saver. What does it look like, how does it fit, how much and from where??



Case saver is a simple & cheap part that fits between sprocket and crankcase. In the event of a chain breaking it 'guides' the chain out of the enclosure and on to the road, without it, it is possible that the chain bunches into the recess in the crankcase cover and smashes a hole in the cover and/or the crankcase. If it breaks the crankcase then the repair will likely cost thousands and maybe the end of your bike as new crankcases are not cheap, need to be bought in matched pairs and require a complete engine rebuild to replace.

Case saver;

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/forum/data/photos/l/3/3928-1396135539-112e8e802fccad2583fd2dcbb26f1e35.jpg

Chain break without case saver;

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/forum/data/photos/l/3/3929-1396135639-aaba928c601c70847c4d8e6c164addc9.jpg

http://ducatiforum.co.uk/forum/data/photos/l/3/3930-1396135643-de3bbb68d145811ddb4bfb9935ed6200.jpg

As for where to get one, there are several suppliers, try; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DUCATI-748-749-916-996-998-999-CRANKCASE-ENGINE-PROTECTOR-1098-999-/191111963177?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts_13&hash=item2c7f292229

[wezrvf]

I guess this has been sorted on the nearer monsters ?

[Cobra88]

I guess this has been sorted on the nearer monsters ?

Nope they still kill cases when they snap.

[Mr Gazza]

Ouch..!!!:shocked:

Somewhat graphic images.!!..Game over, if that happenz.

Thanks very much for the info Dirty and Dukedesmo...Now I can't do without one, all of a sudden.

I put my bid in for one.. Guy making them is clearly an Ajs/Matchless owner too. So I probably knew him in another life..:D

[Dirty]

Will those ones fit the Monster?

[Cousin it]

They should fit, I have one from my old 800 on the S4r now.

[Dukedesmo]

Will those ones fit the Monster?

My pic is one of those that I linked to on ebay and fitted to my M900, although I did need to make a slight mod to make it fit (cut away a small part of the saver to fit around the crankcase).

I also have one on the 916 which didn't need any cutting but it is a later crankcase design so it maybe an age thing. I'm not sure if 600/750 are exactly the same though?..

[utopia]

Ouch..!!!:shocked:
...Now I can't do without one, all of a sudden.


I was in exactly the same position last year...hardly dared ride the bike at all 'til I'd got one fitted.
There are different types of cases amongst the various monster models and some fit the casesaver more easily than others.
My 750 has very little room for one and I spent a long time thinking that I would need to make my own, extra-thin one or fit a smaller front sprocket, but in fact I eventually found one that fitted even with the 15T sprocket.
Its very tight, but it does fit.
There should still be a thread on the forum which I started about a year ago on the subject, but this had a sad ending as the manufacturer, Darren, is no longer with us. I believe his friend (Steve ?) is now making them though.

Re the scotoiler....yes they are messy.
Don't let me talk you into something that you'll later regret.
On the other hand, they do work very well, and I may have a design for a rear sprocket guard to stop the lube fling, available later in the year.
I wouldn't buy the fancy, newer design of scotoiler with electronic metering and all that excessive gizmo guff.....I find that the original, vacuum monitored design works just fine, isn't too hard to set up if you're patient, and has the benefit of simplicity and ease of fitment.
Mine fits (just) behind the rhs side panel.
I set its delivery rate quite low to avoid excessive splatter, as most of the lube is already held within the chain by the O-rings and it only really needs a light oiling on the rollers.
I top up the reservoir approximately once every thousand miles.

[Dirty]

Utopia's Chain guard thread (http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=45608)

My as yet unfitted chainguard

http://s28.postimg.org/js7gcacyx/11111111111_1.jpg

http://s28.postimg.org/dopvsdmp5/11111111111_2.jpg

http://s28.postimg.org/aj5a2642x/11111111111_3.jpg

[utopia]

Incidentally, in the case of limited clearance between casesaver and chain, I have discovered that a certain amount of "apparent" rubbing can be tolerated.
Mine looks like its just about touching the chain, but makes no rubbing noises and leaves no witness marks when the wheel is rotated by hand.
On the road though, I have decided that intermittent unloading of the chain as you close the throttle or change gear produces enough slack for the chain to rise slightly off the front sprocket, and thus rub the casesaver.
My Dommie has a saver built in to the std sprocket cover and this shows similar rubbing marks, and everything is std, original fitment on that.

If anyone needs convincing of the value of a casesaver, just watch the video on the other thread and listen for the awful hammer blow as the chain lets go on exit from the elbow.
You'll feel decidedly queasy.....and then start panicking.
Honestly, I could hardly bring myself to ride my monster until I'd sorted out a casesaver after seeing that.

[Dookbob]

I fitted one of Darren's' (RIP) case savers to my M600. I had to mess with it quite a bit to get it to fit , re bending it in places, elongating the mounting holes, and grinding a bit off here and there. I found the same thing that Utopia found, ie. very little clearance at the forward part between the chain and saver, about 0.5 mm in my case. I gotta say though that I,m happier now that I have it.
Getting back to the split link thingy, I fitted a new Reynolds non 0 ring chain to a T100R that I am restoring and was surprised to find that the retaining clip is not dished like they used to be a few years ago, (about forty years ago that is ). It was not common knowledge that these retaining clips not only need to be fitted with the closed end leading in the direction of rotation, but also the concave side of the "dish" needs to be fitted against the side plate. An easy way to check for the dished side of the spring clip is to place it on a flat surface and then lightly press on one edge with a finger nail, if the clip doesn,t rock then the dished side is facing down, and if it doesn,t rock on either side then it's not dished at all but flat. I won't be running my T100 until I have sourced and fitted a better quality split link.

[Flip]

Split Links cont'd....

Going on from knowing how to fit them correctly, I lock wire the one on my race bike to give that little extra piece of mind, not sure I'd feel happy about one on the Monster though!

Out of interest does anyone know when it became commonplace to use soft links instead of split links?

Surely there must have been some lumbering 1970's bikes with split links on their chains?

[wezrvf]

Can you get these protectors for the Evo then?

Is this something I need to think about ???

[Rascall]

Been toying with the idea of one of these case savers for a while but after reading the other thread and seeing the photos I think it will have to bee sooner rather than later.

Where can I find one to fit am M900ie 2001

Regards

Russell

[Mr Gazza]

I have opened a dialogue with a chappie who can make these case protectors and he is not against the idea of making them for Monsters of different sorts.
Hopefully I can introduce him to this forum, so you can see what he's got....Watch this space.

I read Utopias' thread on the case savers with interest and could not help admiring the way 470four grasped the nettle with such verve and threw himself heart and soul into the project.

The bombshell on page 13 left me numb and feeling quite helpless. It must have been a huge blow to everyone concerned at the time...God rest his soul.

[utopia]

Sorry...maybe I should have given more warning, but its not an easy thing to refer to briefly.
In fact, if memory serves, it was the casesaver thread which got Darren onto the forum in the first place, which somehow made me feel .....well, not responsible but involved somehow.
He seemed like a nice guy. We were all stunned.
Like I said, I think Darren's mate has taken over manufacture now (SteveB on the other forum, I think), and he will have inherited extensive info on the various different types of cases etc.

On the split links, if I remember correctly my '74 CB500 had a split link but my '76 Z1 had a rivet link....but I wouldn't swear to it.
I put a split link in the Z1 eventually anyway, and also ran non o-ring chains bought off the roll at the local Renolds stockist after the original wore out.

I would have thought I'd have spotted it, but I didn't notice a dish in the spring clip when I fitted my latest split link.
I've peered nervously at it, but it gives no clues and I'm loathe to remove it unnecessarily for fear of deforming it.

[Darren69]

I was shocked at reading the other thread too, I think I have one of his case savers on mine.

I think my 78 Mirage came into my possesion with a split link chain, I'm not sure if they came as standard like that, but it is also the largest chain I think I've ever seen on a motorcycle! Anyway I fitted a soft link.

[utopia]

On the subject of bigger chains, I remember hearing claims that a narrow 520 chain was just as strong (if not stronger) than a 525 because the links are supported over a narrower width on the 520.
Dunno how true this is, but it sounds logical, all other things being equal.
But of course, the wider chain will distribute its load to the sprockets over a wider area, so will tend to last longer.
But don't take my word for it.....I'm just repeating something I heard and haven't researched at all.

[Capo]

http://www.didchain.com/chainSpecs.html

[Pezz]

I have opened a dialogue with a chappie who can make these case protectors and he is not against the idea of making them for Monsters of different sorts.
Hopefully I can introduce him to this forum, so you can see what he's got....Watch this space.


I recently bought a case saver / protector from ebay but it didn't fit my 696 [the tabs on the saver didn't line up with the holes in the case] even though it was listed that it would... I'm still looking for one so Mr Gazza you can tell the 'chappie' he's got one customer already cash in hand waiting - if he has something that would work for my bike

[slob]

I got one of the few Ti ones Darren made. I had to bend it, cut a notch on the inside edge to clear a web on the case infront of the sprocket and file the top hole oval before it fit right.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/saver.jpg

[Darren69]

I got one of the few Ti ones Darren made. I had to bend it, cut a notch on the inside edge to clear a web on the case infront of the sprocket and file the top hole oval before it fit right.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/saver.jpg

I think they all need a bit of tweaking/bending to get to fit. Rob, that has to be one of the cleanest chain cases I've ever seen, my dinner plate has more grease. I'm going to have to deduct kudos for the rather scruffy looking tab washer though :)

[Mr Gazza]

Well I raced home from work tonight, only to find that some git had outbid me for the case saver I had hoped to get.
Having waited 3 days for the auction to end. i discover that the next one has 7 days to run...AAarghh.! What a shagwitted way to sell anything..!!

Trying hard to avoid tripping over my bottom lip or punching the walls or the wife or kids...which ever is closest..:fiery:... I'm thinking How hard can it be..??

Let me tell you gentle reader, it is not hard at all. Just three hours after getting home, I had this.
http://i59.tinypic.com/2dt7gie.jpg

The three hours included going back to work to nick a grindette, mending the grindette, having my tea, making a pattern and farging up the saver.

It's only some sixteenth mild steel that I found, but it will do just as well as any Phuxite lighter metal. I have some 1.5 stainless so I may have another go at it when I'm in a better mood.

It was so easy to make that I think everyone should stop pestering to have them made and just get on with it...I will post up some basic measurements later and an idiots guide maybe.

As expected it makes the sprocket cover sit proud a tiny bit (somewhere around a sixteenth I imagine..:confused:) As a refinement for later I will try and relieve the back of the cover, so it sits flush again, and then araldite the saver to the cover so it all comes away in one piece, and should therefor be easier to re-fit aswell.

Ahh...I feel better now...:mand:

[Dirty]

Let me tell you gentle reader, it is not hard at all. Just three hours after getting home, I had this.
http://i59.tinypic.com/2dt7gie.jpg


It was so easy to make



Expect a delivery of some phuxite sheet in the next few days. I await my new lighter saver and congratulate you on your new hobby :mand:

[wezrvf]

Wow. Looks great.

[Mr Gazza]

Buy yourself a bloody Grindette......:fiery:.

Ooer, and fanks.:mand:

[Darren69]

Nice one! It wasn't any lack of skill preventing me making one for my bike one just there were easier options if one was ready made, But having seen how much adjustment is required to get one to fit I may have just made one myself, not that I would beliittle your efforts but 3 bits of meccano would make a suitable fixture? As you say most bikes have the same moulded into the case cover.

[Dirty]

Buy yourself a bloody Grindette......:fiery:.

Ooer, and fanks.:mand:

Not sure how a female poker player will help but have e mailed and asked how much a Grindette (http://grindettes.com/) costs.

[Mr Gazza]

My child freindly PC prevented me from following your link, so the mind boggles as to what a Grindette is in the sordid modern world..???

You could try a 4" angle grinder and various hammers.

By the way you never did tell what those pictures on your signature spelt out....:mand:

[Dirty]

Ah, hammers, now you are talking my language

Nothing, just a random selection of images that appealed to me at that moment in time http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/Smileys/smilies/fingers-crossed.gif

[StevieL]

Purely as a favour to you Gazza I followed the link and discovered some carp about poker- ho hum better luck next time good job on the case saver, mine needed a bit of fettling to get it to fit but not worth the aggro of running without, having had two chain breaks in the past I am happy to run on the modern split link as neither break involved the link atb Steve

[Dukedesmo]

Just three hours after getting home, I had this.
http://i59.tinypic.com/2dt7gie.jpg



Nice, the only comment I would make is; if you use mild steel for the saver on a bike that sees a lot of rain and doesn't get much care/maintenance (don't think that describes your bike though :biggrin: ) then keep an eye on the fixing tabs as they will rust and may fail eventually. You could paint it but ideally use stainless steel.

[Mr Gazza]

Purely as a favour to you Gazza I followed the link and discovered some carp about poker- ho hum better luck next time good job on the case saver, mine needed a bit of fettling to get it to fit but not worth the aggro of running without, having had two chain breaks in the past I am happy to run on the modern split link as neither break involved the link atb Steve

Thanks for the research Steve..i thought there might have been a connection to GrindR or whatever they call that gay thingy..you never can tell with Dirty. Anyway maybe I should have called the tool a Grinderette, but you know what us Norfolk boys are like for shortening things up..:)..(called a compression apparently)

Might well go with a split link and non O-ring chain later if I feel the need to change the gearing this year.

We must meet up for a ride this year..!

Thanks for the compliments Duke. To be honest the mild steel one was only meant to be a practice piece, but I think it may well serve for at least a year, with or without paint.

At the moment it still has it's original "Browning". It's from a little saw bench that my Grandad bought in about 1965.
It was from an ad in the back of his paper for about 10 bob. The kit came with a nice little Black and Decker drill (which I still use) , an orbital sander attachment, a disc sander and this awful circular saw attachment that was like a sort of unguarded skilsaw...Any way it came in useful eventually, and I used the drill for the holes..Cheers Grandad..:biggrin:

[Dirty]

Purely as a favour to you Gazza I followed the link and discovered some carp about poker- ho hum better luck next time

I clearly said it was poker girls! I can't be responsible for the dodgy imaginations of others :mand:

[utopia]

I also wondered about modding the sprocket cover to allow for the thickness of the casesaver.
I then wondered about fitting a new, billet ally or carbon sprocket cover instead.
But in the end, I decided that the plastic one was the business as it was flexible enough to deform itself into the new position with no trouble. I'm not going to bother to mod it.
It was also softer than the billet, so less likely to scratch the cases with clumsy/frequent removal to clean the gunge out from around the front sprocket.....which I like to do regularly now that the chain runs so close to the saver.
So I just trimmed the shape to look a little tidier and left the std one in place.
Thus saving a few quid to spend on more important bike stuff and increasing my smugness quotient at the same time.
I might try dying it black at some stage.

[Dirty]

Just fitted my case saver. It was tight and took a bit of persuasion but eventually got the holes to line up. Ran it up and down the garages just to check then took it off again and as I thought it's touching!

http://s29.postimg.org/3zxtsfmlj/2014_04_05_17_42_29.jpg

Not sure how to proceed. I'm favouring the 'just leave it' approach, it won't be touching after 20 miles!

I could try fettling but there is really no room for movement. Even if I expanded one of the holes I don't think even my biggest hammer could move the saver enough!

[utopia]

I'd have a go at fettling it.
It actually looks as if the inboard scrape mark is a bit longer than the outer one, suggesting that the saver isn't lying exactly square. Could it be touching at the bottom of the case and being pushed out of line ?
My saver required a sizeable cutout in exactly this area, though I think my cases might be a bit of a special case.

But first, I'd be inclined to get the rear wheel off the ground and rotate it while listening for rubbing and/or putting some kind of marking paint or fibretip pen on the saver and looking for witness scrapes in that.
If it doesn't rub when the wheel is rotated by hand then you're in the same situation as me, where the chain only makes contact when there's enough slack to let it rise off the sprocket a little.
Personally, I decided that this was ok, but I wouldn't have fancied having it rubbing all the time, even if that did eventually gouge away enough clearance.
Looking at yours though, I'd say its probably rubbing all the time at the moment.

[Mr Gazza]

Well done for having a go Dirty...Don't give up.

With my limited experience of fiting these...(one time).. I would say that it is the distance between the holes in the tabs that is critical and also the distance of the hole from the fold in the tab.

Could I suggest that you try making a pattern from a bit of card or summat (I used thin acetate sheet from the modeling box).

I made one of the holes in the pattern, slotted. and then screwed the pattern in. it was then easier to make a better guess at where the second hole should really be when carfully positioning the thing for even clearance round the chain.

I also found that the top hole (on a 900) could be further from the fold to advantage, but the bottom hole is critical in order to get the guard sitting square.

It looks to me like your bottom hole could be too close to the fold and therefore tipping the "blade" over a bit.?

After making the pattern I managed to fit what I made with only 7mm holes in the tabs, but even so it took one or two trail bends before it fitted right.
On the 900 the guard touches the pushrod boss and the lower web beneath the chain. Those contact points effectivly limit where you can adjust the curve.

Try it with cardboard and don't be afraid to start fresh and make your own...Nowt wrong with mild steel either.

[Wasta]

I fitted one to mine a few months ago, It wouldn't fit with the 15t sprocket but went on easily with the 14t.

Piece of mind.

[Dirty]

Well done for having a go Dirty...Don't give up.

With my limited experience of fiting these...(one time).. I would say that it is the distance between the holes in the tabs that is critical and also the distance of the hole from the fold in the tab.


Try it with cardboard and don't be afraid to start fresh and make your own...Nowt wrong with mild steel either.

Thanks Gazza

I've had a go at the holes with a file. They are a mill or 2 wider now so I'll have another hammer session at some point and see if that makes a difference.