rear wheel removal

[mks]

Hi,

I'm after some advise on re-fitting my back wheel (M900).
I got the wheel off OK but cannot get it back on. Should the rear brake calliper bracket be fitted before attempting this?
My Haynes manual is as useful as a chocolate teapot!
It explains the process with pictures of a 900SS which bears no resemblance to my M900:hissy:

[DrD]

Check you have the Wheel bearing metal spacers on the right way - conical side towards wheel
Wheel on ground between swing arm with chain on
Rear caliper off but bracket in place
Rest wheel on suitable block of wood and slide your spindle through

[manwithredbike]

from my own experience, the caliper and bracket should be in place before you slide the wheel into position. you will need to prise the brake pads open a bit to allow the disc to slide in easily. don't forget to pump them closed again before riding.

[Mr Gazza]

I always lay the chain to one side on the swing arm, carefully on some bubblewrap or rag. Then put it over the sprocket once the wheel is in.

My caliper has to come off but obviously the bracket goes on as the spindle goes through.
Mine is a floating rear brake, so the procedure could be a bit different.

It may be significant to note that the rear caliper may be overhead, underslung or underslung and floating.

Where is yours mks.??

[mks]

Mr Gazza
My brake calliper is under slung.

My problem seems to involve the chain.
I can fit the wheel OK and position the calliper but then I have no space in between the two arms to mount the chain.
If I put the chain of first then no space to mount the calliper.
Its almost as if the swing arms need sprising apart at bit.

Will try again this weekend but with the chain also removed from the front sprocket.
This should hope fully allow me more play to mount the chain.

MKS

[don_matese]

Have you tried slackening the chain adjusters so that you have more play in the chain when fitting the wheels? I always wind them as far forward as I can so I can then replace the wheel more easily.

[Darren69]

You shouldn't need to split the chain, and if you do you will need a new soft link.

[Mr Gazza]

You have me worried about wanting to prize the swing arm, arms apart. Don't be tempted. In fact don't force them in any way.

Not at all sure how the space between the arms can effect chain or caliper fitment?

Also think that you will make things worse by attempting to remove the chain from the front sprocket, as there is not enough room to lift the chain off when the sprocket is in situ. so the sprocket has to come off with the chain on it...and that means that the clutch slave has to come off too, to allow the chain out..(It does on mine anyway).

Double check that you have the spacer(s) with the cone facing the wheel.
Make sure the cush drive pins on the sprocket carrier are fully home.
Make sure the wheel adjusters are backed right off so the wheel can go forward as far as possible.
Make sure the caliper bracket can slide forwards with the wheel adjusters.

Get the caliper out of the way until the wheel is in. Then either loop the chain onto the sprocket as DrD does, or drap it on the arm out of the way.
Then get the wheel in using a bit of wood on the floor to hold it up, or as I do, just wedge your boot under it.

If the chain is looped on, the wheel must be pulled back against the chain to get the spindle in.
If the chain is off, get the spindle in and push the wheel forward to loop the chain over the sprocket.

In all cases the caliper can go on last.

I just wonder if you have changed the chain, or one, or both sprockets and gotten too short a chain for the sprockets or too big a sprocket for the chain..(Same thing..!)

You most probably have a 15 tooth front sprocket but the rear could be almost anything from 38 to 42 teeth and the chain would need the appropriate number of links within a little to fit the sprockets.

[DrD]

My method works for under-slung caliper (left off until everything else)
As GASA suggests, have you done something with chain and sprockets?

[utopia]

And when you back off the chain adjusters, move both sides by exactly the same amount, and likewise when re-tensioning the chain, in order to preserve the existing chain/wheel alignment.
Don't trust to the markings on the adjuster plates....they can be miles out.

The alternative is to check wheel alignment afterwards, but that's much more hassle.

[mks]

Wheel is back on now.
Just had to remove the caliper from its bracket - simple when you know how!

Mks