Footrest hanger shoulder bolts

[Mr Gazza]

The shoulder bolts on my 2000 M900 were cobbled up by a previous owner and employ the use of insulation tape wound round some stainless bolts to form the shoulder..:thumbsdown:

I have drawn up a complete set of top hats and matching cone washers for the whole bike to be turned from alloy and then hopefully anodised.

There is one dimension that I would like to check against the standard Shoulder bolt, but as mentioned I don't have one to measure.

Please could anyone who can easily do so, tell me how long the shouldered part of the bolt(s) is? That is the smooth, non threaded part, 12mm diameter, that sits inside the rubber bush.

I am assuming that they are all the same, but I would also like to check that the 10mm and 8mm ones have the same shoulder length.
!0mm are the lower ones into the engine, and the upper ones into the frame are 8mm.

Any "old shape" Monster will be good to measure. The footrest hangers were all the same right up to the S4 models as far as I know.

Thanks.

[Mr Gazza]

The manual mentions washers on the shoulder bolts behind the footrest hangers.

I am assuming that these would be plain 25mm penny washers to support the inside of the rubber bush properly.

Can anyone confirm or contradict that..?

Fanks again...:D

[slob]

correct. you often get spacers with high level pipes too

[pooh]

I think I have some old bolts if any use to you I replaced mine with stainless inserts with standard cap head bolts in them.

Ian

[utopia]

My old footrests are hanging handily on the shed wall.

Its 19mm long, both types. Measuring from under the head.
But its not 12mm dia, its more like 12.5mm. It measures 0.490" in old money.
Bigger ones are 47mm total length, smaller ones 43.5mm, again measuring from under the head.
Each type also has a plain, unthreaded section, 10mm long.
Heads are 0.965" dia.
And yes, there are washers. They look to be about 1mm thick, or maybe a fraction more.

[Capo]

They are available in Titanium or anodised aluminium. The left hand are longer due to the side stand.

[Mr Gazza]

Sincere thanks to all..Where else could I call up instant Monster info?..:biggrin:

Thanks for confirming those Dims Utopia. I had drawn my shoulders at 19x12.5mm, so I am now confident that is right.

I shopped around for shouldered inserts, matching frame bungs and cone washers for head lamp, oil cooler ect.

It is possible to get all those things, but from different ends of the world and in slightly different styles and finishes, so I decided to design the whole lot myself for aluminium, so I could consolidate the style and finish (Gold anodising, if time and money permit.)

My set employs low cap head screws (polished stainless in this instance, but anodised alloy or titanium could be used). Low heads are half the hight of a standard cap head, so it makes the whole fitting slimmer. (As on the head lamp bolts)

I have also drawn a dust cap for the swinging arm pivot and a revised silencer bolt increased to 8mm.

If it all works and looks good, I will publish the drawings on here so anyone can have a go.

Thanks again for the info..:biggrin:

[Darkness]

The left hand are longer due to the side stand.

And if you take them out while the bike is on the side stand.......the bike falls over!

[popelli]

If it all works and looks good, I will publish the drawings on here so anyone can have a go.



when will you be putting the drawings up?

picking up some stainless or alloy tomorrow and are going to machine these up on a lather over the next few days

rather than play with anodising going to use a polished finish

[Mr Gazza]

Popelli.
I can send you the drawings as they are if you like, but I won't put them on here until I have tried the parts out on the bike and confirmed that everything works as it should.

If you can open a TurboCad file I can send it like that, otherwise it will need to be a PDF,

All the parts are from 25mm bar.

Darkness.
Yes the sidestand probably would swivel round the remaining bolt if the bike was leaning on it.
But the stand does not have to come off when you remove the footrest hanger bolts, only one of the sidestand bolts is a footrest bolt aswell.

[Steve Willmott]

Hi Mr Gazza

Stick a .igs or .stp file up, any CAD package will be able to read those in :big grin: Well done for offering to share :thumbsup:

Steve

[Mr Gazza]

Hi Mr Gazza

Stick a .igs or .stp file up, any CAD package will be able to read those in :big grin: Well done for offering to share :thumbsup:

Steve

No problem with sharing the info if it all bits work on the bike, after all the only cost effective way to obtain these bits all in one go is to make them yourself and write off the time.
It might be interesting to price the whole set up though.

I am trying desperatly to send Popelli a PDF but cannot seem to convert the CAD file at the moment...I'm sure I have done it before but not working now..:worried:

[crust]

You mentioned Turbocad above, are you trying to export from Turbocad to pdf?

Is so, Turbocad doesn't do that very well. Download a pdf printer and print to pdf. Works a lot better.

[Mr Gazza]

Mmmm... I tried to download a CAD to PDF converter this morning and ended up getting very cross, as all that happened was my default browser changed for some crappy one which also blocks the default one..:Furious:

Never had much luck with free downloads.!

Is there anyone out there who can turn my TurboCad file into a PDF for Popelli?
He tells me he has a bar of Titanium so the bits will be very exotic..:D

TurboCad files are small and very easy to email but you need CAD software of some sort to read them.
Must be an easy answer to this, or I will print and snailmail them.

[popelli]

Is there anyone out there who can turn my TurboCad file into a PDF for Popelli?
He tells me he has a bar of Titanium so the bits will be very exotic..:D

.

best of all the titanium was free have a contact who can acquire surplus stainless and alloy, asked for the titanium tongue in check as a joke and he acquired it - nice

[Dirty]

Mmmm... I tried to download a CAD to PDF converter this morning and ended up getting very cross, as all that happened was my default browser changed for some crappy one which also blocks the default one..:Furious:

Never had much luck with free downloads.!

Is there anyone out there who can turn my TurboCad file into a PDF for Popelli?
He tells me he has a bar of Titanium so the bits will be very exotic..:D

TurboCad files are small and very easy to email but you need CAD software of some sort to read them.
Must be an easy answer to this, or I will print and snailmail them.

What . file is it, there are some online converters

I've used Zamzar to convert various file types in the past. Just load yours in and they e mail a link to your converted file

http://www.zamzar.com/convert/dwg-to-pdf/

[Mr Gazza]

Thanks for the tip Dirty, but I'm afraid it was to no avial.
Turns out that the CAD files are TCW and I still can't find software to PDF that..!!

Except that it turns out I can..!!!

I read a tip on a modelling forum which said you just print it as a PDF by selecting PDF as a printer instead of the default printer....By jove it worked..:D..I had the software all the time....Just being a fekless muppet..:dunce:

So hopefully Popelli has the drawings, and turnig can commence....Looking forward to this.

[utopia]

Phew, for a moment there I was thinking that I might have to offer you the loan of my drawing board.
And my best pencil is down to its last two inches.....!!!

[Mr Gazza]

Phew, for a moment there I was thinking that I might have to offer you the loan of my drawing board.
And my best pencil is down to its last two inches.....!!!

Yes I usually work with the 2013 edition of GraphiteHB or sometimes Graphite2H software, which is fine for my own one offs at home.
My buddy with the model aeroplane factory got me into CAD drawing as it is much better for driving CNC laser cutters, hot wire cutters and routers. They don't recognise the Graphite software..!!

To be honest CAD is a really clumsy tool to use for a few special washers, but it means that I can email the drawings around the world if required (eventually), or post then up here for anyone to have a go at or alter to their needs or taste.

It's all getting a bit old hat now though, the way forward is with 3D drawing...But that's me right out of my depth..:(

[popelli]

looking at using countersunk bolts rather than allen heads, this should allow a lower profile top hat on the stepped washer

[Mr Gazza]

Yes, you should gain (or lose.) a couple of mill at least by using countersunk heads.

I get my screws from these folks.

http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/

There's no minimum order and all the stainless is A2-70. Only the button head screws come unstamped, but the others, I just put in the chuck of my cordless drill and quickly sand off the stamping against a sanding disc, then polish them up with buffing mops.

That's way way cheaper than any bolt from Probolt or any of the specialist motorcycle fastener suppliers, provided you only want stainless.

If you google the DIN number of the fastener you will find all the dimensions and angles.

Don't forget to take into account that countersunk screws are measured from the top of the head. Cap heads are measured from the bottom of the head.

[utopia]

Yes, I was also thinking that countersunk heads might be better.

Be careful not to countersink or chamfer the inner ends of the top-hat bushes too much, if at all. There isn't a great deal of surface area in contact there, if I remember correctly, so you don't want to reduce it further.

And its actually a 2B ....my favourite pencil.
Its easier to rub out after the inevitable mistakes.

[gary tompkins]

They are available in Titanium or anodised aluminium. The left hand are longer due to the side stand.

Hmmm... using aluminium bolts on side stand fixings?

I think that's asking for trouble

[Mr Gazza]

Hmmm... using aluminium bolts on side stand fixings?

I think that's asking for trouble

I think I share your concern Gary.
TPO offer aluminium (or aloominum for USA readers) top hat and bolt kits.
I am okay with alloy top hats but I draw the line at the bolts especially considering how hefty the steel Ducati ones are.

[Capo]

Only one of the bolts is used on the side stand.

In general if the clamping force is sufficient to prevent movement of the joint then aluminium bolt can be used.

[Mr Gazza]

Come to think of it, I rode the bike this Summer without knowing I had insulation tape forming the shoulders on the hanger bolts...So precious little clamping force there..:worried:

The hanger bolt that picks up the sidestand bracket only really acts as a peg to stop it swiveling, so I guess Ali would be okay.

The thing is that the Aluminium TPO bolts come from America where litigation has gone crazy, so it stands to reason that no American company would dare sell anything that might possibly fail in use...But still not sure if I would be confident with them though..

[Mr Gazza]

The Shoulder bolt project has reached some sort of conclusion for now.
I'm not entirely happy with the result. The design of the swinging arm pivot bungs could be better and the frame bungs could be improved just a little bit too, so I'm regarding this batch as prototypes.

I let my buddy turn them up after he enthusiasticly announced "I can do that" (like the Catherine Tate character.!)...And it just made me wish even more that I had my own lathe..!!:look:

Finish is "Solid Gold" spray, same as on my wheels, but from a can. It doesn't exactly jump off the bike as bling, but they were not good enough to spend good money on anodising.

I still have enough 6082 alloy to make another set, so after a little re-design here and there I may end up with something worthy of some "Ohlins" Gold.

http://i60.tinypic.com/sq1d1w.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/1r8as0.jpg

http://i59.tinypic.com/2drbcsx.jpg

[popelli]

nice work your efforts are considerably more though than my own