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Matt
14-11-2013, 05:30 PM
Before my Monster ownership begun, I'd only every ridden IL4s and one big twin, that inside my 1098, so I'm used to the 'problems' a big twin produces ie rubbish below 30mph and really rattley below 4k
Now I really like the Monster Ive got. Its comfy, fun, reasonably frugal (compared to previous bikes) and pretty nimble too, but I'm a little worried about it to be honest. The bike didnt come with the original cans and Im worried that that is causing a really horrible engine response below 3k and a huge, flat spot around 4.5k
I'm not expecting the little twin to be like a IL4 and be super smooth, but I didnt expect to find the engine almost cutting out between 1k and 2k in first. Is this to be expected? or will some original cans and maybe some dyno time help
Thanks in advance

Rally
14-11-2013, 05:35 PM
It doesn't sound right. I would pull a plug out and check it's colour first. A common mod is to fit a 14 tooth front sprocket, that keeps the revs up in town and gives better acceleration.

Dirty
14-11-2013, 06:20 PM
I can't help much as I've only ever ridden a twin apart from a brief fling with an R1.

It does sound like something may be up. If you are going to dyno it you may as well save the expense and do it with the current cans no?

pompone
14-11-2013, 06:25 PM
Have the throttle bodies been synced up recently? Air bleed been cleaned up? Air filter is clean? Cans only won't make it run that bad..

Darren69
14-11-2013, 06:57 PM
If you've got a carb bike then dynojet or if ie bike then dynojet re-map is the way to go. They are set up so lean at around 3-4k in order that they comply with eu regs and that makes them lumpy. Dynojet remap sorted mine, can use 2nd gear through town at <30mph and not much bother

Matt
14-11-2013, 07:06 PM
Thanks for the tips. It does make a 'popping' sound in that 1-2k bracket, so that must be relevant. Yes the throttle bodies were balanced before I picked it up and good idea about leaving the cans on for the dyno thou :-)

Albie
14-11-2013, 08:57 PM
Have a word with Alex at Proteam Ducati who services a lot of Kent/London bikes independent he on here under unit18

Saint aka ML
14-11-2013, 09:02 PM
Thanks for the tips. It does make a 'popping' sound in that 1-2k bracket, so that must be relevant. Yes the throttle bodies were balanced before I picked it up and good idea about leaving the cans on for the dyno thou :-)

I would say go to Ray at Rosso Corse. My m900 can set off at 1.2k rom easy so no there should no reasons a 620 can not.

It sounds to me like it is bogging down. Does it smell of petrol fro its ars?

Flip
15-11-2013, 02:35 AM
When is it 'popping'?

No load throttle?

On load (at certain revs)?

On the over-run?

Open cans shouldn't cause popping on the over-run of a fuel injected engine as the metering should be so that the bare minimum of fuel is used to keep the engine effectively at idle (albeit at higher revs while they drop on a closed throttle as you slow down).

Is you idle set a bit on the low side because that might cause it so you could try increasing it a little if it is.

Matt
15-11-2013, 04:40 AM
Have a word with Alex at Proteam Ducati who services a lot of Kent/London bikes independent he on here under unit18

:thumbsup:

I would say go to Ray at Rosso Corse. My m900 can set off at 1.2k rom easy so no there should no reasons a 620 can not.

It sounds to me like it is bogging down. Does it smell of petrol fro its ars?

No petrol smell

When is it 'popping'?

No load throttle?

On load (at certain revs)?

On the over-run?

Open cans shouldn't cause popping on the over-run of a fuel injected engine as the metering should be so that the bare minimum of fuel is used to keep the engine effectively at idle (albeit at higher revs while they drop on a closed throttle as you slow down).

Is you idle set a bit on the low side because that might cause it so you could try increasing it a little if it is.

It does the popping thing below 2k when being put under load, but not every time. Almost feels like a misfire. Once it gets up past 3k there isn't a problem and the engine pulls cleanly up through the revs in each gear. I think you may be onto sometime with the low idle :idea:

Flip
15-11-2013, 01:35 PM
Before my Monster ownership begun, I'd only every ridden IL4s and one big twin, so I'm used to the 'problems' a big twin produces ie rubbish below 30mph and really rattley below 4k

It does the popping thing below 2k when being put under load, but not every time. Almost feels like a misfire. Once it gets up past 3k there isn't a problem and the engine pulls cleanly up through the revs

Matt, I would say that unless you're at 2000rpm accelerating through first gear that in any other gear the engine is labouring which may be why you are experiencing the rough running- the motors' way of telling you it's not happy.

Matt
19-11-2013, 04:56 AM
Thanks for the responses guys. Sorry been away playing with the other forum over the weekend. The plugs are coming out this afternoon. I'll let you know how I get on :-)

Matt
19-11-2013, 03:14 PM
Found the cause of the problem. After changing the plugs, which didnt fix the problem, my mate Artur had a look around the engine for me and found that both rubber air intakes have split. Not a huge split, but wide enough for air to get out. New parts orders. Not a great start to Monster ownership