M1000 track bike

[slob]

A few years ago I bought an old M1000(on here) cheaply, since it was only running on one cylinder and the owner didn't fancy tackling the job. It was used as a ready source of spares for my identical 2003 road bike, leaving it looking more than a little neglected.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/spares_1.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/spares_2.jpg

I managed to get an old FIM ECU, cheaper than a factory replacement, bypassing the need to match the imobiliser code and when my 620 track bike suffered a untimely meeting with a myopic BMW driver, I transplanted most of the good bits to the 1000.
Ohlins shock, high level Termis, chopped airbox, Brembo radial master, floating front discs, utralight rear, clipons & rearsets. I also found a pair of S4 wheels cheap on eBay and another UKMOC member sold me a quick action throttle quadrant.
It went okay and was fun to ride.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/carta_1.jpg

Sadly the lack of a rev limiter on the FIM ECU and three days chasing more powerful bikes round Cartagena in January proved too much for the old girl, she lost power, started making nasty noises and blew the rear base gasket. Fortunately on the last day we had booked at the track. She was duly shipped back to blighty.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/carta_2.JPG

I finally got round to clearing enough space in my garage to investigate, on the plus side lack of free time means I've been saving some money towards the rebuild.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/garage.JPG

Today I got round to removing all the bits that tie the engine to the frame and draining the oil. There's a drainplug under these metal flakes somewhere.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/drain_plug.JPG
(sorry about the poor focus there)

Also some large flakes of metal left in the drain tray
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/flakes.JPG
It's not looking good so far...

If I get home in time tomorrow, I'll be bolting these to the engine
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/engine_stand.JPG
(courtesy of Ray at Rosso Corse)

lifting the bike off and slotting this in place
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/engine_jig.jpg
to leave the chassis movable whilst the engine is stripped

[Rally]

Good luck with it Slob. Those metal bits look like big end shells maybe?

[Pomp1]

Good luck with it Rob. I'm with Rally, crank shells. An excuse like any other for lightening and balancing :D

[zhango]

This is going to be interesting - plenty of pics please!

[Gilps]

The FIM ECU does have a rev limiter. It's adjustable though and you may have it set too high. Plus the immobiliser light can be programmed as a shift indicator at a rev point set by you.

I was trawling through old backups of software from a now defunct laptop the other day and came across all my old FIM software and maps. I think I have already given you everything but am I now ok to delete all the old stuff?

[slob]

Yup, no worries Paul.

[gary tompkins]

That drainplug swarf pile looks a bit grim

I await the result of the internal post mortem with interest Rob

[BigOz]

This is going to be interesting - plenty of pics please!

Hear, hear!

[Funkatronic]

ooh errrr that looks like it will keep you busy

shame my DS1000 lump has gone to another

[slob]

more rollable chassis than rolling chassis
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/rolling.jpg

Now the fun can really start
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/out.jpg

[J.P]

Well, I'm no mechanic, but when you take the engine apart,,,,,, it's going to looked fooked.

[jonzi]

What kind of workshop is that?

No calenders of nekkid girls. tut tut.

[Scott1]

I like the fact you've got some bog roll handy.

[Thuli]

What kind of workshop is that?

No calenders of nekkid girls. tut tut.

If one appeared Desmo Dan, two things would be guaranteed:

1) I wouldn't help lift the engine back off the bench on completion.
2) I'd sock him right in the kisser.

[slob]

I'll stick to keeping the bikes naked and the girls in leather ;-)

[bex]

If one appeared Desmo Dan, two things would be guaranteed:

1) I wouldn't help lift the engine back off the bench on completion.
2) I'd sock him right in the kisser.

Cue inappropriate snickering in work. :chuckle:

Good luck with the rebuild Rob.

[Kato]

Cue inappropriate snickering in work. :chuckle:

Good luck with the rebuild Rob.

Your inappropriately eating a snickers:shocked:

[slob]

Day off today so back in the garage.

Belts look fine and clutch is only showing signs of normal wear.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/clutch.jpg
Kato's supplied me with a lightly used slipper clutch for when it goes back together anyway, whilst the 1000's engine braking is great on the road it can border on scary going into tight corners on track.

No horrors behind the clutch casing, a few sludgy deposits which doesn't seem unusual at 30K miles.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/primary.jpg

A few magnetic fragments in the filter screen but it could look worse considering the state of the drain plug.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/screen.jpg
(sorry, another poorly focused phone shot)

Everything looks okay inside the lefthand case. The alternator nut is still in place!
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/alternator.jpg
I'll crack on tomorrow.

[slob]

Top end and all gears etc. now stripped off the cases.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Bottom.jpg

Big thanks to Dr.Ray for the use of a primary gear puller.
Rally and Max are bang on the money, the vertical cylinder big end bearing has gone.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/V_Rod.MOV

The resulting wobble has caused the vertical gudgeon pin to eat a chunk of piston. I was planning on new pistons anyway...
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/V_Piston.jpg

Split the cases
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Opened.jpg
...and the full horror is visible

The remains of the big end shell, squeezed between the rod and crank web
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/BigEnd.jpg

Plenty more bits of bearing shell in the case
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Schrapnel.jpg

Off to Rosso Corse, where I can strip the heads, using Ray's slide hammer.
The vertical exhaust valve looks as though it's just kissed the piston. One of the collets has broken and the valve guide oil seal is destroyed, it just fell out of the head.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/V_Ex.jpg

At least the cams and rockers all look okay. Not that I'll be using these cams.
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/V_Cam.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/H_In.jpg
Thanks again to Ray at Rosso Corse for the use of the special tools I don't have and the ready advice when I reach the edges of my knowledge.

[gary tompkins]

Great progress so far Rob

Best of luck on the repairs to bottom end and re-build

[zhango]

Interesting stuff - a picture of the H shell bearings would be good and guessing it will show fatigue cracks.

[slob]

The vertical rod and remains of the big end shell
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/V_Shell.jpg

Horizontal one was well on its way out too, hardly surprising
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/H_Shell.jpg

The other side of the crankpin
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Crank.jpg

As usual the paint (not) on the cases seems to have suffered the worst ;-)
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Flaky.jpg

Some of the bearings now feel quite crunchy
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Cases.jpg

The phone calls start this week...

[zhango]

The phone calls start this week...
....for a rev limiter? :-)

New crank and rods by the look of it - what do you think?

[slob]

New rods, regrind and oversize shells (along with lighten and balance)

...definitely going to be careful about setting the rev limiter when it goes back together!

[zhango]

Fair enough, crank looks serious from here but could be welded first anyway if you get the right guy I guess.
Those crunchy bearing will have debris in them so will you change all the bearings anyway?
Keep posting about this, I like reading about real engineering - thanks.

(I hope nobody asks what oil you were using!)

[slob]

Always new mains, false economy to strip it this far and not replace them.
I'll be changing all the others too, I'm planning on blasting the cases, so there'll be beads/shot as well as debris in them soon ;-)
I was using 'Rock Oil Synthesis 4 Racing', I don't know how it spent the first 25K miles of its life though.
I'll be switching from 10w40 to 20w50 after the rebuild.

[Pomp1]

Any idea on what caused the damage? purely from the engine over-revving?

[Bonzo]

Fascinating thread :thumbsup:

[pegboy]

Looks like a bit of oil starvation??

[zhango]

Looks like a bit of oil starvation??
To break up like that I'm going to suggest the V rod bearing has a fatigue failure due to engine speed - note that the inertia forces increase with the square of the increase in engine speed, so double the engine speed means the inertia forces are four times higher.
Once the V bearing has gone then oil pressure is lost to the crankpin and the H bearing is starved of oil.

[scrapps]

The money that's going to cost to sort you could have bought my 1000ds Mulitstrada and used its v low mileage motor then sold off the rest of the bike.
It had done less than 10k but a old style Multi has no real value so was sold for less the the motor was prob worth on its own.:scratch:

[Kato]

Multi engine is not a direct swap Scrapps, swing arm mounting is different

[scrapps]

Multi engine is not a direct swap Scrapps, swing arm mounting is different

That's a shame as u can pick up early ones for silly money. I traded mine in with less than 10k on the clock(less than 1k per year):thumbsdown:

[slob]

...besides, where would I put it ?!

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/fullup.jpg

[jonzi]

...besides, where would I put it ?!

Move the crate with the frying pan that stores the puncture kit and you could fit at least one more bike in there.

[Black Bob]

...besides, where would I put it ?!

<pic of multiple monsters removed due to the offence caused>




That's just GREEDY!!!!

Envying and admiring your mechanical prowess though. :)

[Dukedesmo]

...besides, where would I put it ?!

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/fullup.jpg

You're not really trying hard enough, there's room for at least 3 more in there... ;)

[Rally]

I was using 'Rock Oil Synthesis 4 Racing', I don't know how it spent the first 25K miles of its life though.
I'll be switching from 10w40 to 20w50 after the rebuild.

I'd be going the other way and using fully synthetic 0w50 in there if it was me. It's far better for a race engine and will lubricate better at all temperatures. Castrol Power 1 Racing is a good one Rob.

[bex]

You could fit a couple of wasps in the gaps there nae boller Rob!

[J.P]

To break up like that I'm going to suggest the V rod bearing has a fatigue failure due to engine speed - note that the inertia forces increase with the square of the increase in engine speed, so double the engine speed means the inertia forces are four times higher.

** NERD ALERT !! :)


I said it earlier Rob. I is fooked.Good luck on the rebuild.

[J.P]

And you could definitely start stacking your bikes to get more in there !

[zhango]

** NERD ALERT !! :)
Thank you - but someone asked what caused the failure.

It's guys like me who spent their working life on engine and gearbox design that allows guys like you to ride bikes (assuming you do ride)

I've never thought engineering design to be a NERD job?

[J.P]

I do ride and I do appreciate the wonders of engineers around the world for allowing me to do what I love.

That goes for the flushing toilets too.

[slob]

A new crank is definitely on the cards, after a couple of discussions it makes sense. It's obviously been very hot and it's hard to say what effect this will have had on the metal structure. Building a tuned motor around this clearly may end in tears and work out way more expensive in the long run.

[utopia]

Keep 'em coming though, Zhango.
Don't let jp's playful taunting put you off.
Its bikes after all....how can that be nerdy ?
And I for one have often appreciated your informed comment.

[zhango]

Cheers utopia - at my age I'm too thick-skinned to care!

[Thuli]

Zhango... I've met JP once or twice and I'm sure he meant that in the nicest possible way and/or he's secretly envious of your technical know-how.

Black Bob... 'Greedy' you say? You should see him when there're biscuits about!

[zhango]

Thanks Thuli but it's fine - in fact JP has just made a very knowledgeable post about ECU remapping (a bit nerdy perhaps?;))
None of us know everything but if we all share the little bits of knowledge that we have then we all benefit - many posts are opinion anyway and life would be boring if we all agreed.

[J.P]

None of us know everything .

You've not met my wife then.

[Albie]

...besides, where would I put it ?!

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/fullup.jpg

Erm I have 6 in mine and work space. Its hard to get there but when you do it works. Its a case of getting things in some order.

[zhango]

You've not met my wife then.
No, I haven't had the pleasure.

.......I used to live with a similar knowledgeable woman though:)

[Black Bob]

Black Bob... 'Greedy' you say? You should see him when there're biscuits about!

If I squint really hard, I can make that sound like an invite. :D

[Grumpy]

The biscuit tin is always open as Rob's and Thulis!:D

[Darkness]

** NERD ALERT !! :)
.

You shout "Nerd" like it's a bad thing.........

:confused::confused:

[Darkness]

You've not met my wife then.

You evidently don't know then?

:eyepopping::eyepopping:

Or was that intended to be rhetorical?

[slob]

A crank has been located and bought and a deal has been struck around some upgrade/repacement parts. I'll update in a few weeks when there's progress to report.

[gary tompkins]

Erm I have 6 in mine and work space. Its hard to get there but when you do it works. Its a case of getting things in some order.

Just try squeezing 2 trikes and 3 bikes in a single garage for a giggle

That really is a 3D jigsaw puzzle

[slob]

Picked the heads up this evening.

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/dirty1.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/dirty2.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/dirty3.jpg

Slight improvement after pickling in some nasty chemicals, just about ready to paint...

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/clean1.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/clean2.jpg

they're shipping to the tuner in the morning.

I dropped the cases off for blasting while I was picking the heads up

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/stripped1.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/stripped2.jpg

they should be done in a week or so

[zhango]

Heads look good - my hobby is old classic bikes with unpainted engines and I use an old Baby Burco boiler with hand washing powder for bare aluminium heads but I like the look of yours so what was the chemical used and does that remove the paint as well?
You're not going to blast the inside of the cases as well as outside surely?

[final_edition]

This place is good for getting things clean.

http://www.icmhome.org.uk/

[slob]

I asked what he used (in the end, it took a couple of days longer than expected because the paint on the heads was baked on and particularly stubborn, unlike the cases) he said "The stuff I usually use for carbs". The cases get vapour blasted all over. I expressed great concern about gasket and bearing surfaces but he assures me there's no dimensional change or metal removal. He does prep for Padgetts, Stan Stevens, Bob Farnham and even our old friend Paul Smart, so I guess he knows what he's doing.

[uksurfer]

looking good Rob, keeping you busy

will be good to see the finished result

[gary tompkins]

We need a 'like' button on this forum

[zhango]

I know the claims made for vapour blasting and understand the process - just not convinced. I am really concerned about the blast media being embedded in the metal or stuck in internal oilways - despite the claims that this doesn't happen.

I've got a diy blast cabinet from Machine Mart and it works quite well. If I can't clean a casting by boiling it then I do use glass for alloy and Al oxide for ferrous. Everyone agrees that this dry blasting shouldn't be used for engine internals because the embedded material cannot be washed off and will release when engine is in service.

The only exception to this is to use soda blasting and I've recently soda blasted some carburettors - inside and out. Although a bit slow, the finish is excellent and the advantage of soda is that it dissolves in water so part can be washed in warm water afterwards.

Vapour blasting claims to avoid the problem of embedded media but has anyone actually put a piece of metal under the microscope after vapour blasting to confirm that?

[slob]

I understand your point and could be undertaking a very expensive lesson for others! Who on the forum bought a USB microscope for their kids at Xmas and can I borrow it?
Do you use the Machine Mart kit with the soda? I was considering that but wasn't sure it would work properly with soda and my little compressor plus I'm starting to run out of space.

I meant to ask before... do you work at Perkins?

[mintyhit]

Rob, I've got a USB Microscope you can borrow to check it over - do you still work in Soho?

[jonzi]

... plus I'm starting to run out of space. ...

I have space in my garage if you want stick a bike or two in there.

[zhango]

I did work at Perkins for over 10 years but took early retirement. I've worked at a few big car firms but Perkins was the best firm I worked for although I am enjoying an easy life now and got plenty to do. I have got a nice little earner I run from home part time.

I don't think the soda would work with the blast cabinet as it would not suck up very well so I use a Machine Mart grit blast gun outside on a 'total loss' principle. It still does not suck up all that well but did clean the carbs ok which are 35 years old.
I've only used soda for the carburettors so far but it did waste a lot - I bought a big bag of soda from Ebay.

I'm not saying vapour blasting does leave embedded media but just asking the question? There is no real need to blast the inside - the burned oil stain isn't doing any harm.
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq355/zhangopb/Picture001_zpsb7248ae8.jpg

[Kato]

This process is widely used by race teams and restorers and nobody has ever reported a problem with residual contamination.

The point of vapor blasting is it has advantages over normal blasting the water cushions the abrasive preventing it cutting the material being cleaned, therefore the surface is peened and washed at the same time giving a nice sheen to the finish that is far more resistant to marking than normal blasting.

A further development now being used if you are being that paranoid is dry ice blasting just as good a vapor and no containment media to worry about.

[utopia]

..... I use an old Baby Burco boiler with hand washing powder for bare aluminium heads......

Now THAT is PROPER shed cool.
Do you do it on a monday ?

I'm now keeping my eyes open for an old Baby Burco.

[zhango]

It was my mum's and when I was a kid she did do the washing on a Monday!
You must be as old as me to know that! :)

[zhango]

Kato - yes I've seen vapour blasted heads and appreciate the peening effect. Do you know anyone who vapour blasts the inside of crankcases - I don't see the point looking at Slob's pics.

I hadn't heard of dry ice blasting - looks good.

[Kato]

Kato - yes I've seen vapour blasted heads and appreciate the peening effect. Do you know anyone who vapour blasts the inside of crankcases - I don't see the point looking at Slob's pics.

I hadn't heard of dry ice blasting - looks good.

Agree it does seem pointless .......but I would still do it purely because I can, even though nobody else could see it, I would still know it was clean and sparkling on the inside

[slob]

James, yes I still work in Soho, if I can borrow the microsocope for a couple of days when the cases come back we might be able to put zhango's mind (and mine) at rest. I'll give you a shout.

[mintyhit]

No worries, I can drop it by on my way home from work - just drop me a line when you need it.

[utopia]

Yep, my mum had one too.
Wish I still had it now.
Later we had a very early automatic which used to keep my dad busy trying to repair the massively complex mechanical timer which expolded in a shower of tiny springs and contacts if you so much as looked at it..........probably on a monday evening.

[slob]

Picked up the cases this morning, beautiful job by

Dave at TSR. (http://www.tsrvapourblasting.co.uk)

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/blasted1.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/blasted2.jpg

I'll try and do a microscopic inspection this week.

[zhango]

Yes nice job - they look great.
(Bad link for TSR by the way)

[slob]

cheers Zhango, link fixed.

Going to give them another couple of wash blow drys before painting. They will just fit in the oven :-D

[zhango]

'Fit in the oven' - an understanding wife then? :)
From the TSR site they do say
The parts are then returned to a hot wash tank to flush through the oil feed galleries etc of any remaining glass bead, once flashed dried on exiting the washer the parts are sprayed with a corrosion inhibitor & packed ready for dispatch.

Whilst every care is taken to ensure there is no glass bead remaining we do advise that you rewash all parts again before fitting.
The hot tank sounds a good idea to me because if there was any glass embedded the case should expand and release it. I guess advising you to rewash they are just covering themselves.
If they use ACF-50 then I guess you need a solvent for it rather than a water wash?

[slob]

As I keep explaining to our Belgian friends: she's not 'Mrs. slob', she's 'slobette'... in any case Thuli's an absolute legend!

I asked Dave about cleaning the heads for you. He used the ultrasonic carb cleaner, as for the paint removal chemical he described it as his "Trade secret, that I've just discovered gets the paint off Ducati heads", since the usual 'dip' he uses wasn't touching it.

I will be washing with water/detergent and solvent before attacking with an air-line, off to look at VHT paint now

[crust]

We need a like button on this forum, or maybe not as threads like this would bust it.

Good skills on lunching the bearing :thumbsup:

Loving the finish of the cases.

[bex]

'... in any case Thuli's an absolute legend!

Here here!


Bike bits look great, excited to see the finished result. How many extra bhp are you expecting? I hope enough to the sports bikes a run for their money on the straights as well as the corners now.... :-)

[slob]

The surface looks like this at 200x magnification

http://www.thelasturl.net/ukmoc/x200.jpg

I've yet to find anything that's recognisably a glass bead.

Thanks to Mintyhit for the loan of the USB microscope.

[zhango]

Fascinating stuff - so what do you think are the white sparkly bits?

I'm not saying they are bits of glass of course!

[slob]

That's light reflecting off the aluminium surface, a glass bead would be vast at that magnIfication, I've been trying to find one in a thread or oilway for comparison.

[zhango]

Ok, fair enough but we don't know what size the glass particles are? You may know the size of media used but when it hits the component it can break up despite the claims that it doesn't.

I know all the vapour blasters talk about the cushioning effect of the water and say the glass bead doesn't break up but there are a lot of variables - the ratio of water to blast media, the velocity of the jet, the angle that the blast media hits the component and how close the nozzle is to the component. The glass particle has to hit the component or it won't do anything?

I've looked at usb microscopes and they aren't expensive so I'm thinking of getting one and looking at components I've blasted with my dry cabinet to see what they look like compared to yours.

Thanks for doing the microscope thing - we can always learn something new!

[zhango]

I've just got back from the Stafford Classic Bike Show and had a chat with a guy who runs a casting renovation service here (http://aloh.co.uk/process/)

He uses vapour blasting and says that despite claims to the contrary, the process does leave embedded particles and it is essential to do a 2nd op to remove them.

He uses both chemicals and a vibratory process - the firm you used (TSR) use a hot wash tank and also ask you to wash the parts again to ensure there are no glass beads remaining.

As you can't see any glass under the microscope things sound ok but my opinion is it was worth checking
............perhaps another hot wash wouldn't do any harm though - just to make sure? :)

[slob]

I'm not really that worried, although I will be solvent and detergent washing before VHT paint.
Some very well known tuners use TSR. The recommendation to rewash is Dave covering himself.
Whilst I've obviously only spot checked the cases, I've failed to find any traces of anything untoward.
To give you an idea of the crystaline surface in the earlier photo, these are mm graduations on a steel ruler.

http://www.thelasturl.net/ukmoc/rulemm.jpg

I'd expect blast media to be 0.5-0.6mm

[slob]

I dropped off most of the gearbox, for 'superfinishing' at Moto Rapido (http://www.motorapido.co.uk) yesterday and picked up a big bag of new o-rings, bearings and oil seals

I'll be searching for a new oil pump this week, as the scoring in here won't help lubricate the new motor.

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/oilpump.jpg

[zhango]

Yes, TSR does sound like a competent firm - I think we should understand that there is potential for problems with embedded blast material with incompetent firms so we should only use firms with a pedigree like TSR.

The guy I spoke to today sounded like a decent engineer who knew what he was doing but anybody can buy a vapour blast kit, get themselves a website and start blasting with no experience and with no knowledge of finishing the component.

This is interesting stuff to me - and I've learned something from this thread. I am going to get a microscope and it will be interesting to compare pictures of my dry blasting with yours so we know what embedded media looks like.


.......this thread has got a long way to go :)

[zhango]

Ref oil pump: as always one thing leads to another - if you hadn't blown the engine, that pump would have carried on working like that and would supply enough oil. The largest contribution to low oil supply would be end clearance of the gears in the housing rather than the scoring.

Obviously the oil pump does have a hard life because it only has the mesh screen to filter debris so all pumps can get some scoring - but if we don't dismantle engine we don't see it. The big disadvantage of sharing the engine with the gearbox is that it produces a lot of debris that all has to pass through the pump to the filter.

Would I replace that pump? - definitely!

[slob]

I suspect blowing the engine is what caused the scoring as most of the smaller fragments of big and shell will have been through there on the way to the filter.

[zhango]

So the engine carried on running? - that deep score looks quite big for the mesh to pass so is the mesh filter damaged? I haven't looked at mine for over a year but thought the mesh was finer.

[slob]

Yes, sadly I'd just passed the pit entrance when it went and limped round for 2.5 miles, trying to keep off the racing line, to get to safety.

[zhango]

Amazing it held together for that long - these engines are good!

[slob]

Bit of a break for the UKMOC Weekender but I managed to get down to Moto Rapido on Saturday morning and pick up the gearbox, which looks stunning after ultrasonic 'rumbling'. I hope it works as well as it looks.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/superfinished.jpg

I spent most of Sunday prepping the crancases. Solvent cleaned, then with detegent, rinsed and dried with an airline and in the oven, finally several hours masking them up.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/masked.jpg

I got home in time to spray them this evening
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/sprayed.jpg

The Hycote VHT paint isn't as metalic as I'd have really liked but a bit late now... they're ready to cure as soon as I can find a 'food free' window to use the oven.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/ovenready.jpg

[steeevvvooo]

you're putting my hamerite brush job to shame with those cases Rob! Looks ace!

[jonzi]

...The Hycote VHT paint isn't as metalic as I'd have really liked but a bit late now... they're ready to cure as soon as I can find a 'food free' window to use the oven.

Is this why take away was invented?

[J.P]

that looks a fine job of masking

[zhango]

Now it's getting interesting - I'm looking forward to main bearings and crank shimming so plenty of pics on this please.

[Dukedesmo]

Looking good. :thumbsup:

[slob]

I bought a second hand 749s oil pump which looks fine inside, no advantage over M1000, they're the same part no. but it was cheap and available.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/749pump.jpg

A huge collection of belts, bearings, gaskets and oil seals ready to go back in the cases.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/bearings.jpg

I also got some new oil cooler hose and fittings from the extremely helpful Torques (http://www.torques.co.uk), APE heavy duty cylinder studs (shown with an OEM one for comparison) and some new head nuts and washers, since they were about 40p each.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/studs.jpg

[Dukedesmo]

Looking good, keep up the good work... :thumbsup:

[Trent]

Any chance you could post up the prices for the engine bearings?

I've got a 1000 that I need to get finished and should really replace all the bearings since I've got the engine in bits...

[bluestoesonnose]

Like new stuffs in plastic bags, always makes me want to get started

[J.P]

My word that lot would scare the hell out of me.

[zhango]

I'm interested in the studs - the old ones look like they are reduced shank but the new ones are full dia. The reduced shank is better for stress distribution and alters the clamping load for a given assembly torque.
Has anyone used APE studs and are do you have recommended assembly advice for lubrication and tightening procedure?

[slob]

No special instructions, they should be more resisitant to stretching which seems like a good thing with a 15% increase in comression.

[Pomp1]

Looking good Rob, keep the info coming!

[utopia]

The way I read the studs is that both are reduced to the thread root diameter (to avoid the stress raiser where the vee notch of the last thread joins the shank of the stud) but that the newer studs return to a bigger diameter after a few mm, whereas the old ones continue at thread root dia all the way to the other end.
I can't quite get my head around whether this makes the stud able to resist more tension because of the increased dia of the main central portion, or whether by making the centre stronger, the load is just transferred to the weaker area, ie back where the last thread joins the shank.
....ie is the fatter central section helping, or hindering ?

Then again, maybe the upgrade is purely down to improved materials or heat-treatment, and has little to do with their form. ...???

[zhango]

No special instructions, they should be more resisitant to stretching which seems like a good thing with a 15% increase in comression.
We want them to stretch though - they are 'springs' and provide the clamping load by stretching and wanting to return to their original length.

Just looking at your pics I'm guessing the Ducati stud shank is reduced to 8mm? If you apply the same tightening torque to a 10mm as an 8mm you will get less preload which is why I asked if the recommended torque was different. I know APE products are highly thought of so perhaps by using the same torque the lower preload is enough to seal which is why I asked if anyone had used them.

What we want is to seal the combustion pressure when the engine is cold and by knowing the pressure we can calculate the preload required on each bolt. When the engine heats, the aluminium expands more than the steel studs so the load increases which isn't what we want ideally. The benefit of using a smaller diameter shank is that it has a lower spring rate so when the engine expands the load will not increase as much as with a larger diameter which is better. Another benefit is that by stretching more on assembly, the percentage loss due to the bedding in of the clamped surfaces is less so the loss of preload is less.

Perhaps all this hypothetical stuff is irrelevant and the difference in preload doesn't make any difference? - it interests me though. (and as everyone knows, Ducati have had stud failures on early engines)

[zhango]

.....or whether by making the centre stronger, the load is just transferred to the weaker area, ie back where the last thread joins the shank.
....ie is the fatter central section helping, or hindering ?

We have to rely on the stress analysis engineers using Finite Element Analysis who tell us that by using a reduced shank stud the stresses are moved away from where you quite rightly say is the stress raiser in the thread.

[Thuli]

I've found an excellent way to get someone else to clean the oven. So if anyone wants to loan ours in about 6-12 months you'll be welcome as long as you give the oven a jolly good scrub when you're done and I'm not in the house to experience the noxious fumes while you bake. Everyone's a winner.

[slob]

...and as everyone knows, Ducati have had stud failures on early engines...

Which may be why heavy duty APE chrome-moly studs with rolled threads from California Cycleworks (http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/engine-parts/cs900d) come highly recommended, especially for uprated output motors.

[zhango]

I think you missed my point - I know the APE products are ok but I was explaining why I asked if the assembly torque was different and why we want the studs to stretch.

[slob]

Not happy with the paintwork, which hadn't cured properly despite three and a half hours in the oven, working up to 200c, I took the cases back to Dave at TSR.
Top man! he took them back to bare metal again and called me just four days later to say they were done.
A large box of parts also arrived today (it's like Xmas here) including a mystery CD which turned out to contain these (http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/Kamna/Kamna.htm) ...Bonus!

[Wasta]

An amazing thread, really enjoying reading this, although it goes way beyond my 'hit it with a big hammer' techy know how.

[zhango]

That's disappointing about the paint after all that prep but now what? I've tried most of the diy high temp paint (brush and rattle-can) on air-cooled cyl barrels and never been happy with the durability.
As a test, I have painted the H cyl valve cover with Hycote VHT and it hasn't survived being blasted with road grit although it looked ok when I did it.
(As I live on my own I have access to the oven at all times - has your oven pass expired?)

[slob]

I finally got some time off 10 days ago so after sticking the bearings in the freezer overnight and heating the cases to 100ish centigrade (the furnace at Rosso Corse followed by a gentle blowtorching) the new bearings are drifted in.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/L-case.jpg

The new crank looks great with Carillo rods in place
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/new_crank.jpg

Lightened, balanced and polished, compared to the old one
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/cranks.jpg

Along with Pistal 98mm high compression pistons.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/pistons.jpg
The crank, rods and pistons are 260g lighter than stock, hardly Earth-shattering but since we're up from 992cc to 1078cc (and 10:1 to 11.8:1 compression) it's all heading in the right direction.

I managed to get in the garage last weekend and start measuring, which I re-checked this evening.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/selector_float.jpg
The book says 0.1mm to 0.4mm for the selector drum, so 0.28mm is close to perfect.

The cases are assembled with input shaft and the front selector fork, to check everything's centred.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/in_shaft.jpg

End float is checked for both gearshafts but there's no play on either of them, so by measuring the gap between the gasket surfaces and bearing faces, the shaft lengths and the existing shims I can work out I need to lose 0.2mm and 0.25mm off the input and output shaft shims respectively to get between the 0.05mm to 0.20mm clearances required. The crank needs 0.3mm preload so using the same method I can calculate the shims needed for this. Craig at Moto Rapido has been duly emailed and with any luck the shims are in stock.

[pegboy]

Awesome, lighter, hi comp, polished, shaved and balanced sound like getting ready for a night on the town??

[Dukedesmo]

Nice one, keep it coming. :thumbsup:

[Funkatronic]

looks really good mate
cant wait to see that on track, you are going to be able to boot that out of corners sooo hard :-)

[Stafford]

What's the due date for the new baby?

[zhango]

The new bits do look good - I would enjoy working on that myself.

Just a small point in case anyone misunderstands what you have written - you have missed the word 'pre-load' after '....... ideal 0.3mm'
The sentence starts with the words 'End float....' so it reads as if the 0.3mm is end float - I know you didn't mean it to.

Presumably you would have been able to directly measure end float of crank with min thickness shims fitted but you didn't have any? - I think I would want to do that to double check measurements.

[slob]

Yes you're quite right, it was getting late. The crank wants 0.3mm pre-load, the gear shafts want between 0.05 and 0.20mm end float. In other words there should be a slight resistance to turning the crank and an almost invisible amount of free play in each gear shaft. The ally cases will expand about twice as fast as the steel shafts.

[slob]

With suitable shims installed the cases go back together.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/sealed.jpg

Factory Pro shift detent (http://ca-cycleworks.com/factory-pro-shift-kit-6898) (right) looks very similar to stock but different spring and a ceramic bearing. This is meant to give a slicker gearshift, we'll see.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/detent.jpg

Gearshift pawl spings are both replaced. Under £10. I've had the return spring break on a bike of similar mileage before, so better safe than sorry while it's apart.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/springs.jpg

The selector drum/pawl alignment is checked in 3rd gear and a quick run up and down the gearbox confirms everything is lined up right.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/pawl.jpg

The clutch driven gear is temporarily fitted and primary drive lash checked.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/primary_lash.jpg

A magnet from an old pair of headphones is set in epoxy in a race drain plug from Avanti Race Parts (http://www.avantiraceparts.co.uk/shop.php?id=3&cat=8)
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/magnet.jpg

[zhango]

Now it really is looking good and nice to see the con-rods protected - what a pro! :thumbsup:

Now you've got the Avanti sump plug, which is drilled, you need somewhere to lockwire it to so if you haven't found anywhere, this is my effort.

I'm a big fan of JBWeld so converted my sump plug by fixing a piece of 10mm s/s hex. I also JBWelded a pieces of 6mm s/s hex into the blanking plug for the oilway cross-drilling and lockwired together.
(I agree it's not necessary but looks good to me!)

You didn't say what paint you used for the cases the second time?
http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq355/zhangopb/DSCN1646_zpsab876f56.jpg

[Rally]

Mole grips on a splined shaft! No, tut tut.

Looking good though Slob.

[Kato]

Factory Pro shift detent (http://ca-cycleworks.com/factory-pro-shift-kit-6898) (right) looks very similar to stock but different spring and a ceramic bearing. This is meant to give a slicker gearshift, we'll see.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/detent.jpg




Been using those for years as you know Rob......they work very well indeed although pricey for what they are

[slob]

Aluminium flyweel weighs just 632g, steel original is over twice as heavy at 1873g.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/flywheels.jpg

It's almost starting to look like an engine again.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/generator.jpg

[utopia]

So that's a rather impressive 1.2 kg lighter ...a significant reduction even if it were only for the dead weight, never mind the rotating inertia.
That's an eye opener.

...as was the mole grips on the splines ...though they do at least look to be newish ones with relatively sharp teeth.

Would that be one of the super strong, rare earth magnets ?
And do you intend to use them around your oil filter too ? My current thinking is that that is the most effective place for them.

A really interesting thread this. Thanks, Rob. (I may have said that already).
Does anyone else remember those strip down and rebuild guides for old brit bikes in Motorcycle Mechanics ..the ones that were like a cartoon strip of badly lit photos of greasy bits of engine ...? (I bet Zhango does). This is like the modern version.

[zhango]

Utopia, I was a regular reader of MM and as a teenager with no money I learned a lot about bikes from that mag - the articles tended to repeat though so how many times did you need to be told how to grind-in valves? Yes, the photos were not good but it was a long time ago!

I agree with you about using Neo magnets on the oil filter - I've got some N52 which I got from SPIDER MAGNETS (http://stores.ebay.co.uk/Spider-Magnets?_trksid=p2047675.l2563) on ebay.

[slob]

Utopia: The magnet I used was a flat ceramic disc from a scrap pair of cheap computer headphones.
Zhango: I didn't paint the cases in the end. After discussing with Dave, I decided to try bare metal and an occasional wipe over with ACF50 since it's going to be a fairweather/track bike. Time will tell.

[slob]

Earlier in the week I stripped the starter motor so I could stick in a new brush kit from the ever efficient Electrex World. (http://www.electrexworld.co.uk/acatalog/SMBK175.html)
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/brush_kit.jpg

Cleaned up, primed and painted the casing, looks like new and can go back on tomorrow.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/starter.jpg

The APE studs (http://ca-cycleworks.com/products/engine-parts/cs900d) are torqued into the cases by locking two of the old head nuts together.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/studs_in.jpg
Sadly they're 23g each heavier than the stock ones so we're 184g in the wrong direction here, at least that's not rotating or reciprocating mass.

Piston ring gaps are checked and are all good at around 0.35mm
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/rings_1.jpg

Checked the clearance in the piston while I was at it, unsurprisingly no problems with brand new kit.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/rings_2.jpg

[bluestoesonnose]

Love it

BTW, my BSA motor is un-painted, the bike is used in all weathers and some light green laning. And they have stood up more than well to the elements.

ACF-50 should see you ok on a bare motor. It'll look like death when it gets dirty but will clean up fine if / when you decided to degrease it.

[zhango]

That's a lot of thread showing for the nut end - tell me the studs aren't upside down?

[slob]

The studs aren't upside down.

[zhango]

Ok thanks - I didn't think they would be :) - so it must be an optical illusion looking at your previous pic of the new studs and the appearance of the threaded length each end.

[Funkatronic]

wow zhango

are you studying the pics with a magnifying glass? :look::biggrin:

[zhango]

wow zhango

are you studying the pics with a magnifying glass? :look::biggrin:

Just Specsavers reading glasses!

I assumed that the long threaded end went into crankcase and the short threaded end was the nut end. The pic doesn't look like that to me so I asked?

Slob confirmed that it was right so it must be.

I intend keeping my M1000 so may have to rebuild the engine one day - this thread interests me as I may learn something not in the manual.

http://i463.photobucket.com/albums/qq355/zhangopb/studsthreadlength_zps7f80509a.jpg

[slob]

Other way up, the shorter thread goes into the case.

[zhango]

Thanks - nothing wrong with Specsavers glasses then! I did google fitting instructions for APE studs but could only find:

"Most 10mm cylinder head stud installation
1. Long threaded end must be installed in case - see Tech page for exceptions"

I couldn't find the page for exceptions so assumed long thread in case - I do believe you though! :)

[slob]

It's been a while since I updated this, the week before last I made a bunch of simple tools to help setup the cam timing.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/tools.jpg
1. I brazed up a dial guage clamp that fits the rocker cover screws to check valve lift.
2. A pair of cut down bolts to lock the cams in place while making adjustments.
3. Since I've decided to risk junking the belt covers I've lost some of the cam timing marks, so I made some little plates to provide temporary marks during setup.
4. A simple pointer to use while degreeing the cams.
5. A piston stop made from a filed down nut and bolt, to assist with accurately determining TDC.
6. An angled foot for a dial guage, so it clears the rocker and will sit on the closing shim.

I bought a torque adaptor from GB motorcycle products (http://www.gbmotorcycleproducts.com/ducati-tools-15-c.asp) since a regular socket won't get to the cylinder head nuts.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/torque.jpg
You can download an iPhone or Android app to simplify the required calculation from Norbar. (http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torque-wrench-extension-calculator.aspx)

Sadly I put my back out last weekend so no real progress was made until yesterday.

At this point I had to take the engine off the stands and onto some wooden blocks, as the tool I have for locking the alternator/crank uses the same bolt holes. Whilst manhandling the engine back onto the stands after torquing up the alternator and primary drive gear, disaster struck. I slipped and guess was lucky to stop the engine just before it went off the side of the bench.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/disaster.jpg
Only cosmetic but to say I'm pissed of with myself right now is a serious understatement!
Moral of the story: get someone to help with the heavy lifting whenever possible. At least I'd slung the old covers back on otherwise the damage could have
been far worse.

Pistons are assembled and started into the barrels, It's far easier to slip the gudgeon pin into the conrod than to get the rings into the barrel once it's offered up to the cases.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/assembly.jpg

Ergal timing belt rollers (left) shave another 388g off the rotating mass.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/rollers.jpg

I followed Chris Kelley's excellent article on setup (http://ducatitech.com/2v/maint/rebuild/headwork.html) to determine TDC and dial the cams in, setting inlet open to 1mm at 34 degrees BTDC as specified in the data sheet that came with them.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/degree.jpg

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/lift.jpg

Before checking squish and valve clearance.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/wax.jpg
The orange wax (http://ca-cycleworks.com/ca-cycleworks-clearance-gauging-wax-to-check-squish-ducati-tools) is 1.9mm, yellow 1.3mm and green 1mm.

1mm of squish and no marks on the valves is a relief as 1000DS base gaskets only come in 0.4mm and I wasn't looking forward to waiting to get custom
thickness ones laser cut.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/squish.jpg

I used a free iPhone app called 'ProTuner Lite' to set belt tension and double checked them using the 'allen key method'. (http://www.ducatisuite.com/belttension.html)

Now it's really starting to look like an engine again.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/timed.jpg

[Dukedesmo]

I bought a torque adaptor from GB motorcycle products (http://www.gbmotorcycleproducts.com/ducati-tools-15-c.asp) since a regular socket won't get to the cylinder head nuts.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/torque.jpg
You can download an iPhone or Android app to simplify the required calculation from Norbar. (http://www.norbar.com/calculators/torque-wrench-extension-calculator.aspx)


Great stuff :thumbsup:

But if you keep the tool at 90 degrees to the torque wrench you can use the correct torque as the 'leverage' is the same.

[slob]

I spent quite a bit of time making several new oil cooler brackets, the first three that all fell short in some small respect. This is #3 ready to braze up.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/bracket.jpg

#4 fits just right with 1098 oil cooler, Torques (http://www.torques.co.uk) hoses made up and Evotech (http://www.evotech-performance.com) guard, as this will be right in the path of debris from the front wheel.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/cooler.jpg
We had a few delivery hassles, all down to the carrier and I can't recommend Gary at Evotech's commitment to customer service highly enough.

[J.P]

More tremendous work by you Slob, shame about the broken fin.

And is it just me that giggled at this ?
" It's far easier to slip the gudgeon pin into the conrod than to get the rings into the barrel "..... :)

[gary tompkins]

Have you worked out which vital part Alan nicked 'for a laugh' at the BBQ weekend yet?

[slob]

I almost believe that. I discovered yesterday that the o-ring groove for the crank sensor in the Mg generator case is twice as thick as the one in the stock case, yet the o-ring provided is the same and just flops about with no hope of sealing. Another minor delay.

[gary tompkins]

Wrong... guess again

Alan said this would be a good game :)

[bex]

Looks brilliant Rob :-)

[slob]

After some messing about locating a suitable o-ring for the crank sensor, the Magnesium generator cover is on. The groove for the o-ring is much larger than stock but the o-ring provided is the same.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/genny_cover.jpg
I had to file down the sprocket cover a little to get it to clear the Oberon (http://www.oberon-performance.com/) clutch slave.

Looking for a tidy lockwiring solution, I filed down and drilled some Titanium penny washers.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/washers.jpg

allowing me to lockwire the sump plug.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/plug.jpg

The TPO (https://tpoparts.com/cat093/index.php?route=product/category&path=1) clutch basket bolts were drilled for lockwire, so it seemed silly not to.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/basket.jpg

Strictly speaking I didn't need these, the stock ones were the right depth for the new cams but once I'd seen them there was no going back, cam caps were never available in Magnesium like all the other covers.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/ncr.jpg
The new casings and fasteners, combined with losing the stock belt covers, shed a couple more kilos.

At the weekend I cleaned up the chassis, ready for the engine.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/wash.jpg

I've had all manner of hassles fitting the clutch and still don't have a working solution. The slipper clutch I obtained appears to be from a 2001 996R, I had thought all dry cltches were the same but 'R' models have a 24mm input shaft, the clutch end tapers to 20mm on 'strada' gearboxes. I'm still working on that but have fitted the original clutch hub for now.The clutch cover I've got wouldn't fit without spacers and longer bolts although I've finally sorted that this evening.

[Dirty]

Nice. It's getting exciting now!

[Black Bob]

That looks awesome! Almost a shame you have to put the engine back in the bike - it ought to be mounted on some kind of plinth.

[gary tompkins]

The offer to help lift motor back in still stands but I can't do it until after the bank holiday

[Dirty]

If you need a hand before wkend (or on the weekend, or after) just shout.

[zhango]

Slob - you're doing a really great job with a lot of attention to detail but I am concerned with the dia of the cylinder head washers. They should be larger than the nut flange face and make use of the available clamping area on the cyl head.
I'm sure you know that Pressure= Force/Area and you risk crushing the aluminium when it gets to operating temp.
Ideally you want thick, hardened, ground steel washers - larger dia than the nut flange face.

[Dukedesmo]

Looking good. :thumbsup:

[slob]

When ordering OEM washers, those are what Ducati now supply, the original part number for the D shaped ones has been superseded.

[zhango]

Fair enough slob but I will disagree with Ducati that those are suitable then!

I personally would look for some better quality 10mm washers - I definitely wouldn't fit those.

I don't expect you to take my word for it but ask anyone who builds race engines - I get the impression you know a lot of guys in the business.

[slob]

A few friends came round on Saturday morning tempted by MotoGP qualifying on TV and a rainy barbecue.
We shifted the engine onto the floor.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/lift0.jpg

The chassis was lifted over the engine.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/lift1.jpg

With everything lined up, the engine bolts and swingarm spindle were replaced.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/lift2.jpg
This job is so much easier with three people helping, thanks guys!

Major bolts tightened and the process of connecting everything up begins.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/engine_in.jpg

[jonzi]

Looks like I'm trying to resuscitate the bike in one if those shots

[gary tompkins]

Glad to help Rob

Thanks again for the hospitality and BBQ

[jonzi]

tick tock tick tock (http://www.timeanddate.com/countdown/generic?iso=20131102T00&p0=136&msg=Bikes+to+Swindon+for+Cartagena#)

(ps mine is in a million bits, I might be hiring a smallboys bike!)

[slob]

Thanks Dan!

Another long wait for an update. Several weekends working but managed to slip in a Brands trackday and MOB Monsterdag, followed by a brief trip to Germany only to find the 'Ring wet & closed :-(

Titanium case saver, slightly adjusted to fit.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/saver.jpg

Oberon clutch slave fitted and bled.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/slave.jpg

From this...
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/no_oil.jpg

...to this is a small step in the right direction.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/level.jpg

Turning the key, reveals the next hurdle:no whirring noise from the fuel pump, despite leaving the tank quarter full to try and keep it wet.

[DrD]

Rob

In the last pic (oil level), is that an oil pressure or temperature sensor from the gauze filter housing?
Worked on 500, 900 and 1000DS engines but never seen a sensor from there.

[slob]

Oil temp, for the display on the clocks. The engine temp used by the ECU is on front inlet rocker cover. Pressure is behind the oil filler cap.

[pompone]

Turning the key, reveals the next hurdle:no whirring noise from the fuel pump, despite leaving the tank quarter full to try and keep it wet.
I doubt it is the pump per se Slob, the 996 sat dry as a bone for 2 years and didn't affect it. Do you get current at the pin plug on the loom side?

[iconic944ss]

Great thread - late to the party but I'm subscribed now...

So many good links to book mark as well for hopefully working on my 900 over winter.

I've not seen so much Titanium & Magnesium for a while - I Like It :thumbsup:

I look forward to more updates!

[slob]

Thanks Frank, I've been collecting parts for about 5 years. You can get some great bargains as long as you're not in a hurry.

[Dirty]

Wow, getting close now!

[Stafford]

What tyres are you planning to use Slob?

[bex]

Get some slicks! Gowan Gowan Gowan!

[steeevvvooo]

Get some slicks! Gowan Gowan Gowan!

would be rude not to!

Saying that, it would remove the final excuse that us mortals have when a small/light person, comes around the outside on a 125 (that's the excuse I used anyway ;))

[J.P]

It's ok Stevo, she can be beaten, you just need to out brake her and you can sale past.........

[Stafford]

It's ok Stevo, she can be beaten, you just need to out brake her and you can sale past.........

....or get a monobrow ;)

[slob]

I was thinking about trying D211 but am leaning towards good ol' Super Corsas

[Funkatronic]

not anything silly like the drain hose kinked and creating a vacuum?

as to tyres, try the dunlop d212 pro's mate, 5 compound rear, 3 compound front
amazing tyre and last ages and still road legal

you should really use tyre warmers with the 212 (same as for 211)

[slob]

No tyre warmers for me, no sir. I could stick to my tried and tested 2CTs.

[Black Bob]

I've heard good things about Pilot Road 3's.... as long as the weather's not too warm.

Bike's looking FABULOUS, Rob. But.....

... will it blend?

[Funkatronic]

2ct or pilot power 3 then

the amount of tourqe from your tuned lump will need a decent tyre to do it justice

[slob]

Assuming I have the skills to actually use it :-/


(everything will 'blend' Bob)

[Darren69]

The Rosso Corsas are good, if a little overpriced compared to the Super Corsa III's if you can get the size for the rear there are still plently of III's going cheap. I couldn't get the III's in 180 only a 190 rear.

[slob]

The culprit is about £6 :-)

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/relay.jpg

[craigie]

That will be the cheapest new part on the bike then.
Don't they make them in unobtainium?

[slob]

No, according to the packaging they make them in Portugal.


50mm spaghetti headers, another eBay bargain,
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/spaghetti.jpg

fitted with copper plated nuts
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/coppernut.jpg

and high level Termignonis.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/termi.jpg
It turns over and runs okay but I figured any more testing with open pipes an 22:45 was probably pushing neighbourly understanding a bit too far.
I need to swap the clutch for the slipper. Bolt on roadgoing parts. Replace the fork oil seals and it's MOT time before I can do some running in.

[Stafford]

Lovely, nearly dyno time.

[slob]

I should probably check the rev limiter setting at this point too ;-D

[J.P]

sounds like you've still got a lot to do....

[bex]

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/359582.jpg

Well done Rob. I look forward to seeing the back of it a lot in Cartagena.

[slob]

sounds like you've still got a lot to do....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QD3a7HnuDSw

[Dirty]

http://youtu.be/wK63eUyk-iM

[Stafford]

http://youtu.be/wK63eUyk-iM

Stopped that after one second.

[slob]

I only listened to about 10 seconds and had to play Red Barchetta by Rush, End Of The Line by Metallica & Guess What by Buddy Guy before I could get the damned thing out of my head

[iconic944ss]

"It's always a happy day when YYZ appears on our luggage tags."

Good luck on the Dyno!

[Dirty]

:spin::yoparty::biggrin::running: mwah ha ha ha ha

[slob]

I took the day off yesterday and once the UKMOC related hangover had started to lift, I rebuilt the forks and clutch, along with bolting on plate, lights, indicators, mirrors and hugger.
After an brief test up and down my road this morning, I booked an MOT and headed to Rosso Corse, only to discover the bike was running on the front cylinder only. A little help from Ray and Max revealed a damaged injector, which was duly replaced and the MOT passed. 5 short journeys have put 32 miles on the clock and everything is oil-tight. Running in has begun and tax disc purchased.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/MOT'd.jpg

[crust]

Looks good.

Shorty front guard and no belt covers! Brave man. Get that front tyre hot and its going to throw allsorts at them.

Now for the running in snoooooooooooze.

[zhango]

Well done slob - that was a lot of work.

[Dirty]

Woo hoo nice one

916 front mudguard, choice of champions :)

[pompone]

Bike is bloody awesome, sounds like has got lots to give. Glad to be of help, learning something every day! Ride out tomorrow then ;)

[Grumpy]

Looks good Rob,hopefully will see in the flesh soon.
Better get my a**e in gear with my S4!!

[Pedro]

I took the day off yesterday and once the UKMOC related hangover had started to lift, I rebuilt the forks and clutch, along with bolting on plate, lights, indicators, mirrors and hugger.
After an brief test up and down my road this morning, I booked an MOT and headed to Rosso Corse, only to discover the bike was running on the front cylinder only. A little help from Ray and Max revealed a damaged injector, which was duly replaced and the MOT passed. 5 short journeys have put 32 miles on the clock and everything is oil-tight. Running in has begun and tax disc purchased.
http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/MOT'd.jpg

That looks ace Rob

[Albie]

Nice one el president. Send us some more pics please on my email

[BigOz]

Looks great. The dyno report and track findings will be interesting.

Andy

[Black Bob]

I only listened to about 10 seconds and had to play Red Barchetta by Rush

Ah... wonderful track. :)

[gary tompkins]

Well done Rob. Oddly enough I've also had to replace a duff fuel injector on my 900ie recently

Be interested to see how the engine performs once run in

[slob]

Thanks to Pompone and Jonzi for a grand day out yesterday.
Around 300 miles covered, in short hops with lots of espresso in between, the only fault was a slightly loose temperature sender.
The bike runs around 10c hotter than stock but is running 20w60 rather than 15w50
She pulls like a train (up to 5K rpm for now) so didn't seem to hold the other two up too much.
Running in wasn't as dull as expected since the national speed limit comes up at 3750RPM in top.
The bike is running quite rich at the moment but was still giving around 50mpg

[Dukedesmo]

http://www.thelasturl.net/m1000/MOT'd.jpg

Very nice! :thumbsup:

[perkles]

great looking bike,what make of rear hugger is on it ?

[slob]

It's the stock one cut down (just for the MOT) the side panels are now gone again and I need to make a new chain guard to replace the hugger, my first one developed a crack so has been discarded.
The bike is currently down to 169kg wet, so just over 20kg lighter than stock.
Making it less 'wheelbarrow' is quite high on my list of priorities, once running in is complete.

[J.P]

Slob,
Given the wheelbarrow appearance are you just going to chop the cans down in size and leave all the rest the same ? Seems the simplest of options, other than lengthening the whole bike......

[slob]

2into1 pipe... more weight saving ;-)

(cue Jonzi's 'fat old man' comments)

[pompone]

(cue Jonzi's 'fat old man' comments)

With the amount of food he eats won't be laughing for long ;)

[Dirty]

2into1 pipe... more weight saving ;-)

)

Who are you getting to make the headers Slob?

[slob]

I've got some JHP ones for a 620, just need to extend them a little for the extra stroke on the DS Motor.

[Funkatronic]

so how did it run round cartagena???

[Albie]

Now the fun can really start
http://www.thelasturl.net/M1000/out.jpg

I like that engine stand. I am thinking of making one so I can clean and paint it or worse case scenario do work on it, Looks like its finely balanced but good access all round. Any tips you have before I get making one.

[slob]

nope, it's simple: short at the back, long at the front

edit: I've thought of a couple of things
. use allen bolts, not hex head for more clearance.
. make sure the height is about the same as when the bike is sat on its wheels.

[utopia]

The engine stand looks really handy.
Mind you, it does look like it results in the weight of the engine putting a lot of load on the rear mounts (ie a clockwise turning moment when viewed from the right hand side).
I can't see that being a critical issue as the cases are probably strong enough to take it, but its massively more than the design originally intended and would possibly be significantly increased when you're heaving on a spanner.
So I was just thinking, could you add a removable support at the front ?
You could still remove it for when you needed the access but refit it afterwards.
I guess even a block of wood would do the job, but a pukka extension would be neat, and much more secure during the aforementioned spanner heaving.

[gary tompkins]

those mounting points are used for footrest hangers on monster, so not a stressed part of design

main frame mounts to top of engine

[slob]

I had no issues with either clutch or alternator nuts, the bosses round the holes are substantial and the other side takes the side stand.

[jonzi]

I had my 600ss on these stands for a few months with no problems and Ray uses the same at RC.

And similar types are shown in pics on Google image search.

I am going to get a set made up, for Ducati's and the Triumph.

[Dirty]

I could do with a set of my own, the set is the pic is currently holding my wet clutch engine

[jonzi]

I could do with a set of my own, the set is the pic is currently holding my wet clutch engine

Some one should do a welding course and make some up.

[slob]

hahahahaha

[gary tompkins]

or teach yourself