cush drive rubbers

[scrapps]

Hi folks
I have bought a 1995 600ss but the cush drive has play. So I need to change the rubbers and pins.
I have taken the wheel apart and removed the pins but wanted to know the best way to remove the rubbers without damaging the wheel.
Any top tips for safe-easy removal would be great.

[Nottsbiker]

Long bolt, big washers and a spacer big enough to go over the metal outer of the individual cush drive unit but small enough to bear down on the retaining part of the hub.

Put washer on bolt (head end) and put into centre of hub so thread protrudes up and outwards. Put spacer / socket onto this ensuring fits onto hub but will allow some of the cush drive to move out and into it. Finally put another washer and nut on. Tighten this up and it will draw the cush drives out one at a time part of the way. When its part way out leave all this attached but use a drift from inside the hub onto the bolt head and it will pop out no bother.

Strangely some folk hack, hammer and burn them out but I have no idea why they feel the need when its actually an incredibly simple job :)

[470four]

Here you go - did mine this June?

http://www.ducati.ms/forums/57-supersport/137733-cush-drive-change-no-prob.html

Simples! :mand:

[scrapps]

Ok thanks. I will have a look around the workshop and see what i can cobble together.

[scrapps]

Ok I found some bits n bobs in the workshop to cobble a pulling gadget as per 470fours post. It worked very well popping the bits out UNTILL number 6 that just pulled the centre post through . :banghead:
So I just need to get the last bit out and I am on the home run.

[Albie]

Well thats a good result for the majority. With your workshop you should be ok .

[470four]

Ok I found some bits n bobs in the workshop to cobble a pulling gadget as per 470fours post. It worked very well popping the bits out UNTILL number 6 that just pulled the centre post through . :banghead:
So I just need to get the last bit out and I am on the home run.


Ummm try again using a washer exactly the same size as the outer? Failing that stick a hacksaw blade in there, upside down if necessary so you can reattach a hacksaw body inbetween the spokes in the wheel and **carefully** cut through the outer? Tap the outside edge in nearest the cut so it folds in like a snails shell, plenty of penetrating oil and *poik* it out. :mand:

[scrapps]

I will have to try and cut it. It's hard to get anything behind the outer with the narrow part behind.
Still 5 out of 6 was not bad. . . . .

[Capo]

Its allways the last one.

[Dookbob]

Nice thread this one, necessity is the mother of invention, that and owning a monster of course.

[pegboy]

very lucky, mine was 5 to 1, 5 being very Flippen stubborn and one difficult, alot of swearing and carrying on, but the technic that was posted above is the way to go for a home workshop.

When putting the cush drives back in some say to put the them in the freezer, i did but did still difficult to get insert.

[Dukedesmo]

Just swapped mine. Pulled out easily enough using a long bolt, a couple of washers, 3 nuts and a large socket (as a spacer), in fact they came out so nicely & undamaged that they could be re-used although I did fit new ones.

New ones went in easily enough with nothing more than a hammer & suitably sized drift to fit on outer rim (another large socket) although I did freeze them first and oil the hole.

[scrapps]

All out now (with help from dremmel) awaiting the new bits.
Got to wait till middle of next week for the bits as pins are out of stock :banghead:
I will also remember to put the new rubbers in the freezer before fitting.

[scrapps]

My new rubbers and pins arrived today :mand: so I had a quick look at them before I attempted fitting. I am a bit disappointed that the new bush and pin has almost as much free play as the ones I have taken out ?
I would assume the pin should fit snug in the bush with no free play ? when I put the new pin inside the bush I can still wiggle it around and slide a .005 gauge between the pin and bush.
Is there meant to be free play and if so why ? I decided to change them due to feeling a knock when rolling on/off the throttle and being able to move the sprocket with my hand while fitted to the bike ?
The bits cost over £140.00 and I cant see they will solve the movement problem. :banghead:

[gary tompkins]

The knock you are feeling could just be backlash in the gear train. The earlier engines in the 600 and 750 did have a lot play in the box, and it's not really something you can cure. My 1994 M600 was pretty bad - especailly in the lower gears. I just had to be dead smooth on the throttle, and make sure my chain was well adjusted and lubed. I have to be even smoother with the trike because it has no cush drive on the rear differential at all.

[scrapps]

I don't think the problem is the gearbox Gary.
Before I removed the wheel from the bike I could move the sprocket forward and back by hand and it was very easy to pull the assembly from the wheel once removed.
The play is in the wheel/drive and not anything I have seen on the Monster,Multi,750ss.
I don't want to assemble with new bits as I do not want to fit £140.00 if bits and it will be no better ?

[utopia]

Perhaps the pins will be tighter in the bushes once they are installed (and therefore slightly compressed) in the hub.....?
Do you still have the old bushes ? If so, you could do an "out of hub" comparison between old and new bushes on the new pins.....?

[scrapps]

Yes still have old pins and bushes and I do not see any real difference between the old and new.
I have not fitted them yet to see if they will eliminate the play between the drive hub and the wheel but if fitted I cannot return them. ?
I just assumed the new pins and bushes would be a push/interference fit not what I would class as a loose fit.

[Starter Sprag]

They are a 'loose fit' when brand new !

Even after fitting in the hub

[scrapps]

They are a 'loose fit' when brand new !

Even after fitting in the hub

So why not a push or interference fit ? if the sprocket carrier is able to move it will knock and cause wear.
I would have thought it should be tight and just use the give in the rubber to absorb energy and smooth the drive :scratch:

[Dukedesmo]

Ive just replaced the cush drives on mine and the pins are a loose fit, however once all 6 are in the wheel then the sprocket carrier is a fairly tight fit.

If each pin was tight you would struggle to get the sprocket carrier on and even more so to remove it, especially once there's a bit of corrosion in there.

[scrapps]

Ok it seems that the loose fit is how they are made so I will try fitting and see how it looks assembled.

Cheers

[Sirc]

I know it seems a mystery that so much play would be introduced as standard but I am guessing it came about as a compromise after exploring realistic tolerancing/mass production on the whole assembly. Even if they had applied high T.I.P. tolerancing in six + six places (expensive) there is still the possible post-moulding 'float' that would have to be allowed for (also x 6) when it comes to the silent blocks.It's a rare thing to hope that there are some tolerance discrepancies but i think this is the case here.