Oil Drain Plug Size

[satan916]

Has anybody got an oil drain plug lying around they can measure the thread size and pitch for me ? (mines still on the S4 and I obviously don't want to have to remove it and waste the oil).
Thanks Guys

[Capo]

M22 x 1.5.....

[JerryT]

Look at that. ^^

Ask & Ye Shall Receive.

What a great club!

:ukm:

[Starter Sprag]

Yeah, also used on oil screen filter, and oil dipstick

[satan916]

M22 x 1.5.....

If I had to bet on who'd come up with the answer my money would have been on Capo.Cheers bud

[satan916]

Right, that was your starter for ten, and your bonus question is, Capo (or anybody else if they can answer before he does), whats the internal diameter of the water coolant hoses that run from the pump to the vertical and horizontal cylinders ? (again I don't want to have to drain my system to measure it myself). I'll explain all after I've got the answer

[Capo]

In round figures, 19mm, they fit over a 21mm spigot

[satan916]

In round figures, 19mm, they fit over a 21mm spigot

Damn it man, give someone else a chance!!

Thanks again. Reason I'm asking is that I've purchased a Koso dash and it has the facility to measure oil and water temp so obviously I need to "break into" the oil circuit (probably use the oil screen cover, get a 22mm- 1/8NPT Gauge adapter and screw the sensor in there, likewise with the water, fit a sensor adapter (1/8 NPT again) in line with one of the cylinder water pipes and screw the sensor into that.

[Capo]

There are two hose adaptor that bolt to the heads, one is used the other is blanked, perfect for your temp sensor, nice and neat too. For the oil, you can use the sensor used on some 2V models. Almost plug and play.

[satan916]

Can you be a bit more specific ? If it saves me having to hack into the pipework, I'm up for that. Also, not sure what you mean about the sensor for the 2v models, I assume you're talking about the actual sensor itself but the dash comes supplied with 2 x1/8" NPT sensors, so I just need the adapters, hence the questions
I would guess the blanked sensor hole in the cylinder is probably a metric thread (10mm), so if I went that route I'd have to buy a suitable sesor to fit

[Capo]

This pic shows the horizontal cylinder outlet connection with the sensor on the left, there is a plug (M22 x 1.5) in the right hand leg. It is probable that the probes of the sensors will contact, this could be fixed with a M-F adaptor. Did you know that titan hose clamps are finished in black :mand:.
Note that the water temp sensors measure the outlet i.e. hot temperature, you proposal to insert into the pump discharge would measure the return temperature from the rad.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm143/Tarugo996/P1020262_zpsc06a41d3.jpg

This picture shows the position and connection of the oil temp sensor as used on the 2V, parts available from your local friendly dealer.

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm143/Tarugo996/oil%20temp%20sensor_zpsa47fed78.jpg

[satan916]

Capo, makes sense about using the pump return line, and you're right, it would look a lot neater using the spare cylinder outlet. I need a 22mm adapter for the sensor anyway, so that looks like the way forward and it saves me having to hack away at my silicon hoses. I'll let you know how I get on. Thanks for the help

Update: just had a look at the bike and unfortunately neither of the cylinder water hose outlets on my S4 have a spare blanked off connection, so I guess it's back to plan A and using an in-line sensor adapter (on the radiator top or bottom hose) which would be what ID Capo? My guess is 24mm

PS Which model monster was your picture taken from

[Capo]

Hmm, is your connection different i.e. only connection if so I'd get the water outlet shown in the pic, part number 814.1.119.1A, about £80 new.
The radiator hoses have an ID of 24mm
The pic is from my S4R
How will you get around the imobiliser if you are removing the dash

[satan916]

I can see this is going to get expensive as my connectors do indeed only have one outlet so I'll probably go down the in-line adapter route (but you never know, I may change my mind so thanks for the part number.

As to the immobiliser, as far as I'm aware (and I have looked at the wiring diagram) it's only the led indicator that goes to the original dash so I'm not sure if simply disconnecting it will make any difference, if it does then I'll have to reconnect it up externally using an led and a couple of load resistors.

UPDATE: just been down to the garage, disconnected the dash completely and the bike still starts fine, so that's that potential problem overcome- you don't need the immobiliser flashy led in circuit to let the bike run (kinda logical when you think about it really, what would you do if the light stopped working and you couldn't start the bike), buy a new speedo?!! Not even the Italians would be THAT cynical would they?

[Capo]

Temperature sensors are mounted in the outlet manifolds on each cylinder the sensor on the horizontal head provides temperature data to the ECU, while the sensor on the vertical cylinder controls the cooling fans, both are connected to the ECU.

The ECU looks for a signal from the dash to un immobilise, early S4's had the immobiliser circuit separate from the dash mounted on the front of the airbox but it still communicated with the dash which in turn communicates with the ECU, you better be sure about this before you proceed, a simple test would be to unplug your dash and see if the bike starts.

[satan916]

Temperature sensors are mounted in the outlet manifolds on each cylinder the sensor on the horizontal head provides temperature data to the ECU, while the sensor on the vertical cylinder controls the cooling fans, both are connected to the ECU.

The ECU looks for a signal from the dash to un immobilise, early S4's had the immobiliser circuit separate from the dash mounted on the front of the airbox but it still communicated with the dash which in turn communicates with the ECU, you better be sure about this before you proceed, a simple test would be to unplug your dash and see if the bike starts.

Capo, don't know if you caught my previous post but I have done exactly what you suggest, disconnected the dash completely and, happy days, the bike runs