Hi

[bluestoesonnose]

Just want to say hi, here gathering some information as the better half is after a late 750 Monster and I'm boning up on what to look for.

Cheers
Blues

[Nickj]

There's late carbies, up to 2000-2001, after that there's IE's.
Uusual applies to both... Docuented service history, belt changes or one that has the jobs done.
On the IEs watch the clocks when powering up, a single full range sweep is good anything else isn't.
They'll usually start first press, nice usuable motor and reliable too.
Engines are all mechaniclly 'loud', gentle rattle is OK. Listen to a few to get the idea.

[bluestoesonnose]

Hi Nick
Many thanks, are the throttles heavier on the Carb bike over the IE?

Cheers
Phill

[Dookbob]

I have owned carbies and ie,s but although I wasn,t really taking a lot of notice, I don't remember the throttle being Much different between the two, certainly not enough to be an issue.

[Albie]

Welcome to the club . Enjoy the banter and tips.

[bluestoesonnose]

Cheers, oh I'll enjoy, there's going to be loads of silly little questions

[Nickj]

I've not really noticed much of a difference in either the clutch or throttle Phill, both throttles are light, the clutches are a bit heavy but nothing bad.
I've had an IE and a carbie and, apart from when it's damp and cold and the carbs ice, I prefer the carbie.
Both had fairly unrestrictive pipes and a K&N type filter just so it could be cleaned rather than ditched.
On balance I prefer the carbie, it's a little bit more raw, maybe slightly rougher but that suits it nicely.
Reliability is good, I do about 1000 miles a month in all weathers, never had any problems. They are really stable, if a bit lazy in the standard set up. The suspension is basic but competent and the frame is a peach but can do a little shimmy in corners, the frame it was derived from was used on the 888's (??) and had a cross brace where the air box on the monster lives. There's a huge depth to it which makes it a really nice ride.
The motors are pretty bullet proof, just change the oil at 3K religiously and help a lot to find grip. So we've done snow, ice and water up to the base of the headstock with no problems.

[bluestoesonnose]

Again, many thanks, I guess if we can't find a nice M750 we'll be looking for a 900 as I guess it's basically the same bike with a larger motor?

Cheers

[utopia]

I would second all that Nick has said.....with the exception of the water up to the headstock....!!!!
Only trouble I've had with mine (yr 2000 model) was a failed reg/rec, possibly due to water in its multi-connectors, which are a little exposed to the rain. Its a fairly common problem across the whole range, and its worth keeping the connectors well greased, or do like I did and relocate them somewhere drier...mine are now under the tank, next to the coils. Tell tale signs are acid staining on the frame, left hand side.
There seem to be quite a few reports of tanks leaking around the rear hinge bracket on all steel-tanked, early type monsters, but I've had no problems with mine yet. Worth checking though.
Its sometimes said that the 900s are a little more lumpy and can be hard work when you're just tootling around, which is one reason that I went for a 750. I find that the middle sized motor still has plenty of shove under most circumstances, and after 6yrs or so I still don't hanker after the extra power of the 900. The 750 falls into the same insurance group as the 600 too, so its an economical choice, as well as sipping fuel at 50mpg or better, no matter how hard you ride it.
The wet clutch is longer lasting than the dry clutch on the bigger motors, unless its been run on the wrong oil....fully synth can cause slippage, though bizarrely the recommended shell advance ulta 4 is described as fully synth, but is apparently ok. Mine's run on that for 11000m with no probs, but I plan to change to semi next time. Some owners fit an aftermarket slave cyl to lighten the clutch, but I've not found this neccessary myself.
Another point to watch for is pulsing from the front disc/s, another fairly common problem across the range. There are many views as to the actual cause of this. Mine do it, even though both discs are true and running on clean bobbins, so my personal, as yet unverified view is that its something to do with uneven tempering/conditioning (?) of the braking surfaces, possibly caused by over-gentle useage.
Hope some of that helps.
One thing I can say is that you will not be disappointed with the 750. Mine's a keeper. Best bike I've ever owned.

[bluestoesonnose]

Hi, thanks for the info, I think that a 750 is the way to go. I've been boning up over the past few days and note that fork seals can give issues. I would expect this on bikes of this age I guess.

So it looks like I'm in the market for a late M750 Monster in Red (it has to be red, so I'm told), if anyone knows of one you know where to find me..

Cheers