PDA

View Full Version : Replacing brake pads


jonzi
23-07-2012, 02:13 PM
Is this an easy job?

Does any one know of a decent write up if so?

Would the brakes need bleeding to replace the pads?

Is there a manual out there, Haynes or something, for the Monster 796?

slob
23-07-2012, 02:18 PM
yes it's easy, no they shouldn't need bleeding

it will be something like http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vg57C4CeuVE

jonzi
23-07-2012, 02:36 PM
Awesome thanks!

One more question. How do I know what pads I need to buy?

I think only the front needs doing.

cactus
23-07-2012, 02:49 PM
Awesome thanks!

One more question. How do I know what pads I need to buy?

I think only the front needs doing.

Do you mean which type of pads, or do you mean front, rear or both sets ? You'd be best to find out as much as possible about your particular model, lots of info on the net. You'd also benefit from buying a manual.

slob
23-07-2012, 05:10 PM
796 fitment (http://brembopads.com/En/Pads/Pads_Catalogue_Search.aspx?SearchBrand=DUCATI&SearchCC=796&SearchModel=MONSTER&SearchYear=11>)
or equivalents, whoever sells them to you should be able to confirm which fit your bike

Headhunter
23-07-2012, 05:45 PM
Also take a look at this site from the links section. Am sure it's very similar for 796.

http://www.ducatisuite.com/brakepads.html

Also, having recently asked about other brake pads than EBCs, I'd highly recommend Brembo's pads.... just fitted mine yesterday after getting fed up of my EBCs (after 1 month) and they're brilliant. Excellent initial bite.

I remember years back being a bit nervous about the above but once you've done it you'll be amazed how easy it actually is.

jonzi
23-07-2012, 06:16 PM
Cheers guy much appreciated

Nickj
23-07-2012, 06:36 PM
Different types of pads 'feel' different Jonzi, it depends what they are made of or more the mixture of pad material and metal filler. Sintered pads wear away the rotors, the harder they are the more they wear and Ducatis have relatively soft material rotors. It's only really important if you do lots of miles or lots of heavy braking though.
I like the feel of Carbone Lorraine pads, they bed in really quickly and have a nice progressive feel to them. Price is similar to any other pads but they do seem to be a bit of a rarity at the moment. This might improve as Pirelli are now the UK distributor.
Currently I have EBCs on the front and I'm not liking them as much, overall much harsher and need more lever pressure to get the same braking effect.
The rear hardly ever gets used so I'd be happy with almost anything there

utopia
24-07-2012, 02:30 AM
As the pads wear, the pistons gradually move further out, and more of the piston is exposed to dirt and corrosion.
The pistons need to be pushed back to allow for the new, thicker pads to be fitted, dragging the previously exposed bits back across the seals.....so they need to be thoroughly cleaned first.
Once the pins, springs and pads are out, get a piece of wood that's just a mm or two thinner than the gap between the pistons, place it between them and pump the lever until the pistons grip the wood. This exposes the last of the dirty area of the pistons, for a proper clean. Obviously, you need a piece of wood thats not so big that it gets in the way of the cleaning.
If the wood is long enough you can then use it as a nice, soft lever to gently push the cleaned pistons fully back into the caliper to take the new pads. A twisting action works well.
A secondary advantage is that the wood prevents you accidentally pumping the pistons right out of the caliper.
As a rough guide, you can afford to push each piston further out by the amount of friction material left on each pad, ie to the point it would be if the pads were worn down to the metal, without danger of them popping out.

For removing excess brake fluid from the reservoirs when (before) the pistons are pushed back, I used a little plastic, squeezy pipette.....dead handy, but I don't know where you get them from.

pegboy
24-07-2012, 09:56 AM
As the pads wear, the pistons gradually move further out, and more of the piston is exposed to dirt and corrosion.
The pistons need to be pushed back to allow for the new, thicker pads to be fitted, dragging the previously exposed bits back across the seals.....so they need to be thoroughly cleaned first.
Once the pins, springs and pads are out, get a piece of wood that's just a mm or two thinner than the gap between the pistons, place it between them and pump the lever until the pistons grip the wood. This exposes the last of the dirty area of the pistons, for a proper clean. Obviously, you need a piece of wood thats not so big that it gets in the way of the cleaning.
If the wood is long enough you can then use it as a nice, soft lever to gently push the cleaned pistons fully back into the caliper to take the new pads. A twisting action works well.
A secondary advantage is that the wood prevents you accidentally pumping the pistons right out of the caliper.
As a rough guide, you can afford to push each piston further out by the amount of friction material left on each pad, ie to the point it would be if the pads were worn down to the metal, without danger of them popping out.

For removing excess brake fluid from the reservoirs when (before) the pistons are pushed back, I used a little plastic, squeezy pipette.....dead handy, but I don't know where you get them from.

Sorry if i am stating the obvious, although first time easy mistake to make, don't forget you have two calipers so two bits of wood otherwise you'll be pushing one and the other will caliper will pop the pistons

Nottsbiker
24-07-2012, 12:15 PM
Machinemart do a nifty piston pusher that effectively spreads apart so pushes in both directions equally.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/040815180-2?da=1&TC=SRC-piston

coronasan
24-07-2012, 01:05 PM
Just watch for sticking pistons, I am having that trouble at the moment.

Nottsbiker
25-07-2012, 11:54 AM
Just watch for sticking pistons, I am having that trouble at the moment.

Pump them all the way out, clean the bores and pistons then re-assemble with red grease. Only downer is that you will have to bleed the brakes afterwards, which whilst not a hard job does cause some folk a bit of grief. If one or more pistons refuse to pump out, restrict the free ones and they will eventually come free.

griffs
07-09-2012, 11:24 AM
I need to replace the single disk pads on my 620. After reading this thread I decided to go for Brembo 07BB19 with CC compound.

Any recommendations where to get the best deal? I have EBC sintered on the back.

My pads are 10 years old, so I presume it would be worthwhile changing, even if they are not worn.

Cheers

Nickj
07-09-2012, 12:50 PM
I don't think that pads really 'go off' oily so they'd be fine. If they had been contaminated with something oily then it would just burn off once they got nice and hot although they might not be anything special as a brake before that, if it was the rear then you have to wonder if you'd actually notice it ;)