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View Full Version : S4 Rebuild - so far


littlejimmy12
25-03-2012, 05:37 PM
The plan is to repaint the engine, frame and sundries and at the same time give her a bit of a service. I am a complete novice, I haven't used a manual, only luck and a camera! So far so good apart from swing arm pivot bolt. How the hell do you get that out?

First Mods 2 years ago
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd509/littlejimmy12/IMG_0337.jpg

Stage 2 last year
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd509/littlejimmy12/IMG_0872.jpg

And this year....the full monty
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd509/littlejimmy12/S4Rebuild066-1.jpg

Tomorrow engine into the house

Capo
25-03-2012, 06:03 PM
You sir are smitten the bike looks perfectly OK in the first two pics.

On the left side of the swing arm is a cotter bolt, the head is a 5mm allen and there is a nut on the other end. DO NOT try to rotate the bolt with an allen key. Remove the nut from the bottom and drift the bolt up and out, you should now be able to drift out the swing arm spindle (not sure if the DSS clamps on the right also), there may be shims if so make a note from where they came.
Once you get the swing arm off IMEDIATELY stuff a rag in each side of the case needle bearings. You do not want to know how hard it is to change these.
Have a look at the shaft for wear, about £35 for a new one.

littlejimmy12
25-03-2012, 06:48 PM
You sir are smitten the bike looks perfectly OK in the first two pics.
.

Thanks Capo. I am never happy! I have a vision of the bike and I won't be content until I get there! then again I'll probably finish and still have ideas!

pegboy
25-03-2012, 09:29 PM
How loud is your bike with those pipes?? You should join the tunnel run, if you put it back together in time??

littlejimmy12
25-03-2012, 10:02 PM
How loud is your bike with those pipes?? You should join the tunnel run, if you put it back together in time??

Its very very loud, it idles at around 100db. I do plan to join the tunnel run when its back together. My favourite game is to out rumble HDs :biggrin::biggrin:

Capo
25-03-2012, 10:33 PM
Its very very loud, it idles at around 100db. I do plan to join the tunnel run when its back together. My favourite game is to out rumble HDs :biggrin::biggrin:

By my reckoning, that gives you about 12 days, it can be done you know.

littlejimmy12
25-03-2012, 10:43 PM
By my reckoning, that gives you about 12 days, it can be done you know.

Won't be ready for a while, my budget is tiny so I have to wait for a few pay packets to afford the powder coating etc. I'm looking at 2 months until its finished. Plus I don't have electicity in my garage so I'm limited to weekend day work.

It will be worth it in the end:cry:

graham carroll
26-03-2012, 01:17 PM
Great looking bike, were did you get the pipes also whats the sound like?

littlejimmy12
26-03-2012, 01:24 PM
Great looking bike, were did you get the pipes also whats the sound like?

thank you. The pipes were fabricated by Nick Gale Customs, they are next to The Ace just of the Hanger Lane roundabout. They are not one individual piece but several welded together. They labour costs made them v expensive.

You can still tell that my bike is a Ducati by the sound, but now it kind of has that Harley pupp pupp pupp sound on idle. To be honest I could do with some more baffling.

The idea was taken from Motocreations Boom Tubes which are made in the US.

J

littlejimmy12
26-03-2012, 05:12 PM
How do I do this :o:o:o

http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd509/littlejimmy12/DSCN1251.jpg
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd509/littlejimmy12/DSCN1247.jpg
http://i1223.photobucket.com/albums/dd509/littlejimmy12/DSCN1252.jpg

Capo whats a cotter bolt?

littlejimmy12
26-03-2012, 05:17 PM
I have tried removing the pivot bolts and using my favourite tool, rubber mallet, knock the bolt through but its not budging. Rather than risk damage, please advise

Capo
26-03-2012, 05:43 PM
A cotter bolt has a tapered flat machined on it, the act of tightening the nut draws the taper onto the shaft thus securing it.
You need to give them a good clout with a hammer and a punch as you have to free the taper locking action. Don't worry too much about damaging the end of the bolt as they are cheap to replace.
Do not try to turn the bolt as the interface between the taper and shaft prevents rotation.

Once you have removed both cotters, the shaft can be driven out. However it is not unknown for the products of corrosion to seize them together, you best get a sturdy drift made up with a pilot so you can get some good wacks on it. Keep in mind that there are needle bearings and oil seals in the engine casing, damage them and you probably (given your financial situation) won't be riding it for a while.

Or you could take it to Rosso Corse I'm sure Ray would have it out in a jiffy.

littlejimmy12
26-03-2012, 06:19 PM
I think a trip to ray may be required here! I don't want to take any unnecessary risks a this point.

littlejimmy12
30-03-2012, 05:18 PM
I think a trip to ray may be required here! I don't want to take any unnecessary risks a this point.

Proud to report my swing arm is now detached from the engine :)

Thanks to Slob for some good advice.

littlejimmy12
02-04-2012, 07:53 PM
Seal ring is off, how do I get the 'bearing inner race' and the rest of the stiff out the frame tube so I can slip my frame out!

last piece of the puzzle