PDA

View Full Version : Frok sizes


Saint aka ML
22-05-2011, 09:10 PM
Can some one tell me, confirm fork sizes.

Are 749s forks:

Are they 53 mm top and bottom?

1995 900ss forks:

Are they 50mm top and 54mm bottom?


I was told I need to have top yoke machined down by 1mm (which would give 52mm forks) but 749s forks are 53mm so they would not fit or my measurements are off.

It seems that bottom is correct I would need a 0.5mm steel bush.

sburrows87
22-05-2011, 09:27 PM
Hi mate yes thats right you need the top yoke bored out to 53mm and a 0.5mm shim in the lower yoke

rac3r
22-05-2011, 09:39 PM
saint maybe check these guys for a custom one?

http://www.imasrl.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=8&Itemid=5&lang=en

(scroll down the page)

Saint aka ML
22-05-2011, 10:04 PM
No worries mate I already have a place that is 7 miles away from my home so all good.

Been used by Kato so must be good.

Saint aka ML
22-05-2011, 10:05 PM
Thx, going to drop off yokes monday or tuesday morning so wanted to double check.

gary tompkins
23-05-2011, 12:15 AM
Re: Frok sizes

I would recommend a size 16 in the black.. very slimming coupled with high heels

He11cat
23-05-2011, 11:46 AM
I saw that and thought errrr????.. maybe he likes a floral print GT.. :)

Paivi
23-05-2011, 05:17 PM
I saw that and thought errrr????.. maybe he likes a floral print GT.. :)
I think he's more the small black number kind of guy, I don't think floral works with his complexion. I think the could squeeze into a size 16, but I'd suggest he try them first due to lack of boobage as his moobs are probably only an A-cup, at the very most B-cup.

He11cat
23-05-2011, 05:28 PM
Chicken fillets .. Jobs sorted .. Oh always one of those pump up wonderbras!!
Can't go wrong with little black dress I spose...
The question begs tights or stockings?

Capo
23-05-2011, 05:39 PM
These are the shims

http://i295.photobucket.com/albums/mm143/Tarugo996/8bb29e45.jpg

Incidently I have a DP top yoke that is 53mm

utopia
23-05-2011, 06:00 PM
Alloy might be better than steel, to avoid galvanic corrosion against the alloy of the fork tubes and yokes.
You could cut them from flat sheet....B&Q sell alloy plates for connecting gas fires to their flues...its dead cheap and measures exactly 20 thou (0.5mm)...I've just checked.
I could even bring you a bit, if you're going to arrow mill on sunday.

pooh
24-05-2011, 11:22 AM
Capo
ally good stainless better but mild steel horrible as those at the Mill on Sunday will see on my bike you end up with nasty rusty streaks which are a pain to get off.

Ian

Capo
24-05-2011, 11:54 AM
Those in the picture are aluminium, came from Ducati
Stainless would be hard to form without a roller
Another alternative would be brass

gary tompkins
24-05-2011, 01:46 PM
The split top hat shims on my 996 front end swap were turned from alloy solid bar

Kato
24-05-2011, 02:37 PM
A couple of strips of .5mm shim stock will do the trick....

Dukedesmo
24-05-2011, 09:13 PM
The split top hat shims on my 996 front end swap were turned from alloy solid bar

As were mine, although they're not split (yet), but I may split them when fitting if they don't grip tightly enough.

http://www.ducati.ms/gallery/files/9/3/7/0/p1010664a.jpg

sburrows87
24-05-2011, 09:27 PM
Would definitely recommend splitting the shim bush before fitting

Dukedesmo
24-05-2011, 09:31 PM
Would definitely recommend splitting the shim bush before fitting

As did the engineer who made them, so I probably will. :thumbsup:

Capo
24-05-2011, 09:42 PM
As did the engineer who made them, so I probably will. :thumbsup:

He did a good job there, not easy turning with 0.5mm wall thickness unless he made a madrel first.

Dukedesmo
24-05-2011, 10:06 PM
He did a good job there, not easy turning with 0.5mm wall thickness unless he made a madrel first.

I left him a fork leg and (I understand) he used that to turn it on? But yes, a first-class engineer - if a little slow at getting things done.

Capo
24-05-2011, 10:15 PM
- if a little slow at getting things done.

Arn't they all

gary tompkins
24-05-2011, 11:38 PM
Would definitely recommend splitting the shim bush before fitting

Mine are split - in to 2 pieces

Makes fitting a lot easier

utopia
25-05-2011, 01:52 AM
....... a first-class engineer - if a little slow at getting things done.

Arn't they all

Can't say about the first bit, but yes, I'm similarly afflicted (or is that blessed ?). Had to laugh.
I like the little shoulder on the ones he made. I was going to suggest that.
And I'd definitely put at least one split in them, even if only to make sure that they can be easily removed if neccessary, but mostly so they grip properly.
It'd be cheaper and quicker to roll some B&Q gas flue panel around a suitable former, but there's something much nicer about the shouldered bushes.
Does anyone remember the bit in Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenance, where he uses beer can alloy shims to tighten the fit of handlebar clamps on his companion's BMW, who didn't appreciate it much cos it didn't cost lots of money and wasn't "proper" shim steel, even though that would have been technically inferior ?

gary tompkins
25-05-2011, 08:04 AM
He did a good job there, not easy turning with 0.5mm wall thickness unless he made a madrel first.

Turn the outside diameter first then bore the inside out

Maybe less chance of the thin wall buckling that way - but it still needs skill & very light cuts

pooh
25-05-2011, 08:09 AM
Gary
That's the way I would do it. I just used some 0.5mm shim steel I put through the rollers at work.

Ian

utopia
25-05-2011, 01:54 PM
Yep, seconded (thirded ?) on the turning method, Gary.
I've done thin-walled brass ferrules for old fishing rods that way.
The little shoulder would help too, if it was on the end furthest from the chuck.