Oil Choice ??????

[jimz750]

:banghead::banghead::banghead:

Ducati Monster M750 Year 2000

Been reading that I should use a 10w40 Semi Synthetic, However I'm now confused?

I can get at a reduced cost through a source of mine - Putoline oil.

1) TECHNOMOTO SPORT 4 10W40
Description
Technomoto Sport 4 semi-synthetic four stroke motorcycle engine oil contains Putolines revolutionary “pure bike” TECHNOMOTO additive system. This ensures total compatibility with modern clutch friction material. Developed exclusively for touring & sport use.

2) FORMULA V-TWIN 20W50
Description -
Putoline Formula V-Twin four-stroke engine oil is formulated to meet the ever-increasing demands of modern and classic V twin four-stroke engines. Its unique semi-synthetic formula exceeds the requirements of leading bike manufacturers and will provide complete engine protection under normal operating conditions.

Please advise

Thanks in advance

[satan916]

10w40 is the correct grade, I use fully synthetic 10w40 in both my 99 900 Monnie, and 2002 S4. You can ignore the blurb about the oil being compatible with bike friction plates as the clutch on your model is dry so whatever oil you put in will have no effect. Personally I would use the best you can afford, I use Motul 7100 (I'm sure others on here will say ANY half decent oil will do, and I'm sure semi-synth will be fine), it's a personal choice really, what price peace of mind?

[chris yeatman]

this is wot i use, 10/40

http://www.shell.co.uk/home/content/gbr/products_services/on_the_road/oils_lubricants/advance/product_range/four_stroke/#subtitle_1

[utopia]

..... You can ignore the blurb about the oil being compatible with bike friction plates as the clutch on your model is dry so whatever oil you put in will have no effect....

Its a wet clutch. Same model/yr as mine.
I'd say stick to the recommended 10/40, and any reputable brand is probably fine.
The 20/50 sounds a bit like its aimed at v-twins of a wide range of ages, wheras the other is more specific to modern engines.
Also, ..and considering you have an oil cooler to keep temps down, the lower viscosity oil will probably be better for start up and short runs, without being overstressed at higher engine temps.
And if you have a cheaper source of a decent oil, use it, even if its no cheaper in the long run but allows you to change the oil more frequently. That benefit might outweigh all others.
Not that I'm an oil expert, but thats how I'd see it.

[BluprintZ]

I use 10/40's, the 20/50's is too thick for OHC engines IMO, which can cause premature camshaft wear, it takes too long to thin out as the engine temp rises, so the oil feed to the cams/shaft is reduced, the spray feed holes are too small to cope with thicker oils.

G ; )

[Nickj]

I'm using semi-synthetic 10-40, that's semi synthetic as some full synthetic oils will trash wet plate clutches.. It depends on the additives and how honest the manufacturer is in their description as many oils say fully when they are actually semi synth. IF they say its OK with wet clutches then it's a 75% probability that it is semi. Obviously full or semi not a problem on a 900 or S4 as they have a dry clutch.
I used to use putoline in my KTMs but they were sponsored bikes and I wasn't paying for it so I didn't really care that much. I just thrashed and trashed them.

I currently use Auto-Care 10-40 ... :eyepopping:

OMG I hear some people say ... Cheap oil ... Got to be rubbish compared to MobiShellPutoRock supremo deluxe oil specially formulated and priced for your bike and only £xx a litre ... The engine will be trashed in minutes !!!!!

I've done 24K in the last 2 years, the oil gets changed at 3 months and a new filter every other time. :biggrin:

BTW it exceeds API - SL and JASO M same as more expensive oils

[BluprintZ]

I used the Morris brand of 10/40's in the dry clutch M900 and i use the same brand in the wet clutch Thruxton, no probs, although i do change the filter every time i do an oil change, they are cheap enough, so why not?

G ; )

[utopia]

I'm the other way, with filters.
I tend to change the oil perhaps twice as often as I need to, but often leave the filter til every other change, ie its normal service mileage. ....unless its a new engine (which it rarely is).
Cheaper oils may be fine, but unless you keep a bike for a long while you're not that likely to find out.
Mine's a keeper, so I prefer the piece of mind that a non-budget oil gives.

Also, re the thicker oil, I would imagine it might make the wet clutch tend to drag a little, exaggerating the 'clunk' when selecting first gear at a standstill.

[PDL]

If you ride in the winter then 10/40 is the one

[Nickj]

Long term?? OK, Seeing as the annual mileage covered by bikes these days is considered to be about 3K then you'd be looking at the equivalent of 7 years use on my motor.
Seems a reasonable long term test to me ;) Of course if you do just 3K a year then you probably don't deserve to have a bike (I probably walk twice that a year just doing the dogs without adding work, over 4 miles today) AND the short hops will trash the motor much faster than lots of warm/hot miles.

[utopia]

Personally, that would have been 24k miles/7yrs of worry that I'd used a budget oil, the consequences of which were shortly to manifest themselves.
Even if the cheaper oil proves to be fine, I'd rather not have that worry, for the sake of a few extra quid.
And I plan on putting at least 50k miles on the my 750, hopefully a lot more, which adds up to many years of worry.
Not worth it, imo.
Of course some might say that I worry too much....but I'm worried that they might be wrong.

[jerry]

I have been using Putoline Vtwin in M750 and 750ss for 3 years now no problems at all its formulated as a semisynthetic for aircooled bikes not just cruisers like HDs ,

[Capo]

Filters should be changed along with the oil. There is no way of determining the condition of the the filter, it maybe fully loaded causing the bypass to open or it maybe partially loaded and the bypass opening before the next change.
Also, the filter retains a significant amount of oil that will contaminate the fresh oil.
For the cost of a filter I cant see the sense in not changing it with the oil.

NickJ is spot on. Too much voodoo about oils. Go by the API or JASO rating, these are standards not marketing blurb.

[jimz750]

Thanks to all for help and advice.

Putoline it is then. Getting changed at same time as the clutch friction plates.
Started slipping in 3rd and 4th when you give it a handfull.