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View Full Version : cutting out when i turn right...


the_adam
26-03-2011, 01:05 PM
Hi all,

My bike cut out this morning while I was doing a u-turn, then started ok but cut again as soon as I pulled aay from the kerb...knew I was very low on fuel so I pushed it to a petrol station and filled it up. Seemed to run fine when it set off again...until I had to turn right onto the road.

I've had a play with it and checked the wiring...the ignition switch is cut when the bars are even slightly right of centre, lights etc are still working though. There are no wires catching or even being pulled very tight, all connections I can get to look good. I've just pushed it home (4 miles :eyepopping: ) and still can't see anything particularly wrong. Could anyone tell me what colour wires are best to check? I covered everything in self-amalgamating tape to protect it so checking anything is going to be interesting!

Thanks,
Adam

He11cat
26-03-2011, 01:14 PM
May be you have a partial break stress on wire that side.
It would be in the loom ..
I'm sure someones more useful then me!

utopia
26-03-2011, 01:22 PM
Had a similar problem on my 750 last year, but in my case it wouldn't start unless I turned the bars to full, right-hand lock. After starting it would run fine.
It was a broken wire in the kill switch/start button wiring where it passes to the right of the steering head and is subject to much flexing as you turn the bars.....internal break of just the copper conductors, no visible outside signs. I believe its quite common.
Not exactly your symptoms, but close enough...sounds like you could have a similar breakage.
The wires concerned are threefold, if memory serves, and run in their own sheathing, separate from the main harness. Probably similar on your 695 I would guess.

analogue_rogue
26-03-2011, 02:32 PM
I had this problem and it was the wire from the kill switch I think its green. It sends 12v to the ignition units by the coils and when it breaks it.kills the engine.

Nickj
26-03-2011, 07:00 PM
Look from the front, below the headlight on the left is a small off shoot of the loom with four wires in it. This bit of the loom, as far as I've seen on numerous bikes, is often in a really bad position and flaxes back on itself.
Odds are it'll be there

the_adam
27-03-2011, 12:24 AM
Thanks for all the replies. Haven't been back to it yet, it went partway through a mate's stag day so I decided to get a bus ticket and rejoin them...after quite a long shower! Being bikeless does occasionally have its advantages though :booze: I'll be checking it tomorrow... today... afternoon. Let you know what happens

Just been thinking, I had an indicator go in a similar way before winter. Couldn't find the break so I just bought a bit of cable and attached it straight to the back one (so it now flashes twice as fast as the other side!). Now, if only they made bikes with 2 ignitions... :D

analogue_rogue
27-03-2011, 06:25 AM
I bet the indicator was a right side and bet its a green and white wire and bet its in the same place as this latest fault......

the_adam
27-03-2011, 11:53 PM
It was the right indicator, both wires stopped working at the same time though

Bad news is I couldn't find the problem. I took the starter/killswitch apart and put a continuity tester on there, it's fine with the bars turned to both sides. Took ages to put the thing back together though, I'm sure they must employ squirrels to make them them! Happy thought :) Tried a few other suspicious cables without luck too, although tracing the ends of them and actually knowing which ones are important wasn't the easiest job. I used to work with a former auto electrician, going to see if I can track him down in the morning...

Of course this means I need to be up in about 4 hours to get the bus(es) to work... :worried:

analogue_rogue
28-03-2011, 06:25 AM
You will get cont in the switch. If you don't disconnect the wires silly. Pull tank up and check for twelve volts in the multi plug that has two wires one side and eight the other. It feeds the ignition modules by the coils. Turn steering and see if twelve volts drops off.

the_adam
28-03-2011, 11:10 PM
Ok, I'm a very silly Adam... :running:

Had a little time before the light went tonight and I think I may have found something. I don't seem to have a 2 into 8 plug anywhere but I do have a 4 into 8 that the switch connects to, assuming Ducati just changed it between the models?

http://i1014.photobucket.com/albums/af266/the_adam_m695/DSCF0421.jpg

There's a ground, orange, blue/white and a (possibly) red/green (the colours have faded so it's hard to know for sure!) All have 12V from the battery with the bars to the left but the blue/white doesn't to the right - it seems to gradually increase as you turn them. Could anyone confirm that this wire could cause it before I do anything, I couldn't find a list of the colours!

Plan at the moment is to open up the loom down to where it meets the frame, then splice a suitably thick wire in alongside it and just hope that it's gone there :)

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 06:50 AM
Mate ill pm you my number. It'll be easier.....

the_adam
29-03-2011, 07:57 AM
Thanks, my phone's not working either though! :hissy: Broke a few weeks ago and I've put off replacing it with the insurance coming up...

Not having much luck with electrical things!

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 08:23 AM
ok what year and bike is it?
ill see if i have ythe wiring diagram.. but tahts not where you want to be check the output of the kill switch its easier to look firther back by the coils... then once you know if its the culprit trace the wires back up tilll you find the break...

the_adam
29-03-2011, 08:30 AM
It's a 2007 695

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 08:56 AM
I don't have the wiring diagram for they one.... Bugger. Open open up the kill switch and see what colour wires it has there....

the_adam
29-03-2011, 09:02 AM
I'll have a check when I'm home tonight. Only had it open the other day, I should really remember this... :scratch: Think one may have been a brown/white but I'd better check to be sure!

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 09:09 AM
Found a 620 wiring diagram. If its the same..... kill switch output to the ecu is purple and blue. This should have twelve volt on it to enable engine to run. Check this. (If its the same wiring obviously)

the_adam
29-03-2011, 02:56 PM
Will do, I finish work soon but doubt I'll be home til after 6

If the wiring happens to be the same would you be able to email me a copy, I'm not great with electics (as you can tell!) but it's always handy to have a diagram around

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 05:07 PM
Can probably take a picture and email that?

the_adam
29-03-2011, 06:00 PM
Nope, different colours. I've got a red/white and a red/black. Both are ~12V, but that blue/white defintely isn't doig anything with the bars to the right - as far as I can tell it's for the ignition switch, going to see if I can see any breaks further back :)

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 06:46 PM
best bet is to open the loom up totally from the right hand switch gear and pull the wires about and see if anything is loose...

the_adam
29-03-2011, 06:59 PM
Possible result...a cable tie has cut into the bundle of wires and almost completely severed the blue and white one. In a bit of a hard-to-reach place...There isn't really any light left but I'll try to get it sorted tonight. Got a good feeling about this :woot:

I'm sure there used to be an edit button on here?

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 07:11 PM
Just bypass it and pull the knackered bit out....

utopia
29-03-2011, 07:32 PM
Sounds like you've found the location of the problem, at least.
I've looked at a number of wiring diagrams (Haynes manual, 2-valve engines up to 2005), but none of them cover the 695. However it looks like the blue/white wire may be to the start button....if this is the case for your bike, then a break in that wire shouldn't cause the engine to cut out. Have you had any issues with the bike not starting ?
However, a neighbouring wire may have broken too, causing your problem.
Then again, its dangerous to read too much from the wrong wiring diagram, so this may be gobbledegook.

If you end up needing to repair the loom after investigation, self amalgamating tape is far better than ordinary insulating tape. I think you can get it at Halfords..???

And if you need to solder any wires, stay well clear of modern, lead-free solder...its complete sh1te. Use only good old 60/40 tin/lead solder. I repeat...lead free is worse than useless.
I assume you're familiar with shrink-tube to cover the soldered connection....?

analogue_rogue
29-03-2011, 09:19 PM
Sounds like you've found the location of the problem, at least.
I've looked at a number of wiring diagrams (Haynes manual, 2-valve engines up to 2005), but none of them cover the 695. However it looks like the blue/white wire may be to the start button....if this is the case for your bike, then a break in that wire shouldn't cause the engine to cut out. Have you had any issues with the bike not starting ?
However, a neighbouring wire may have broken too, causing your problem.
Then again, its dangerous to read too much from the wrong wiring diagram, so this may be gobbledegook.

If you end up needing to repair the loom after investigation, self amalgamating tape is far better than ordinary insulating tape. I think you can get it at Halfords..???

And if you need to solder any wires, stay well clear of modern, lead-free solder...its complete sh1te. Use only good old 60/40 tin/lead solder. I repeat...lead free is worse than useless.
I assume you're familiar with shrink-tube to cover the soldered connection....?

you say that about solder.. but i use flux with it and its jsut fine.. and yes thats the same haynes manual i was using!

the_adam
29-03-2011, 09:43 PM
Success!

I can't see enough to do all the tidying up now though, leaving that til morning! And on closer inspection, both the indicator cables were cut in exactly the same place. Fixed those too, means I can get rid of the ugly white cable connecting it to the back as well!

Utopia, thanks for the advice, I use self-amalgamating tape on absolutely everything since I discovered it. One of those little obsessions :) I just cleaned up the ends of the wires and crimped some connectors on for now. Cable tie round the shoulders stops them pulling apart again. Not easy in such a tight space but soldering would have been even harder (plus the soldering iron is another electrical item that isn't working at the moment!) . It's something semi-permanent anyway, I've used them plenty of times without trouble. My last bike's loom was essentially made of them by the time I had it running - I tend to crimp them so tight that they're impossible to pull off again even if you need to :thumbsup:

The only broken cables were the starter and indicators, it seems to have completely fixed the problem. After the first cut out it hadn't started at the same angles that would cause the engine to cut, I can't really understand why the start button would do it either though :scratch: Guess I could start it up then pull the connector out just to be sure?

Going to give the motorway a miss for the first day back on it just in case and give it a good check when I get there, I'm convinced that it's sorted now though :)

analogue_rogue
30-03-2011, 07:17 AM
Success!

I can't see enough to do all the tidying up now though, leaving that til morning! And on closer inspection, both the indicator cables were cut in exactly the same place. Fixed those too, means I can get rid of the ugly white cable connecting it to the back as well!

Utopia, thanks for the advice, I use self-amalgamating tape on absolutely everything since I discovered it. One of those little obsessions :) I just cleaned up the ends of the wires and crimped some connectors on for now. Cable tie round the shoulders stops them pulling apart again. Not easy in such a tight space but soldering would have been even harder (plus the soldering iron is another electrical item that isn't working at the moment!) . It's something semi-permanent anyway, I've used them plenty of times without trouble. My last bike's loom was essentially made of them by the time I had it running - I tend to crimp them so tight that they're impossible to pull off again even if you need to :thumbsup:

The only broken cables were the starter and indicators, it seems to have completely fixed the problem. After the first cut out it hadn't started at the same angles that would cause the engine to cut, I can't really understand why the start button would do it either though :scratch: Guess I could start it up then pull the connector out just to be sure?

Going to give the motorway a miss for the first day back on it just in case and give it a good check when I get there, I'm convinced that it's sorted now though :)

Congrats. Back on the road!!!!!