Peening split link

[jerry]

my heavy duty chain riveter is crap it bends when tightened up and is the 2nd I have tried so I gave up on expensive tools and have peened the link on my new chain again ,is that OK , i have more faith in clip links but vcant find one here in thailand .

[Starter Sprag]

You need TWO hammers to effectively peen the soft link

Place the flat face (pein) of one hammer on the BACK of the chain, then using the flat face of the second hammer, peen over the soft link

Repeat for other 'pin'

Check the link moves as freely as the other links

Using a split link above 500cc engine is NOT recommended

[crust]

Using a split link above 500cc engine is NOT recommended

why not?

I've never had a problem with a split link, seen plenty of badly installed rivet links.

If anything I'd say that a 'soft' link would be the weaker simply because they are made softer so they can be peened.

If they are not recomended then how come you can buy them?

[Starter Sprag]

The side plate of a rivet link is an interference / press fit

Only the ends are made 'soft' to allow deformation / mushrooming, the rest of the link is hardened steel

When CORRECTLY fitted , the rivet link is a much stronger union than any clip-link

[Stafford]

Never been quite sure why people are so anti split inks, I have one on the track bike and my mate has one on his 888 SP5 926 Corsa. Guys run them on enduro and scramblers with no real issues. I'd guess their only real issue is if they were to catch on anything, certainly makes it easier to remove the chain if required.

[Albie]

I have one on my 600ss. I never had a problem with it and due to it having to thread through the bracing its easier. Just replace with new clip and should be ok.

I have tha same problem with 1100 but due to the hp it will stay as it is.

[utopia]

This is interesting. I didn't realise so many people still ran split links. Particularly on a track bike.
I've always much preferred them, just from a maintenance point of view really, but the last experience I have of one was on a Z1B in the late 70s. Everyone seemed to think it was best not to, so I just kept quiet about mine. Never had a problem though. And at least the quality of installation is more reliable as opposed to the varying standards of peening that are very possible with a rivet-link. Probably worth using a new spring sometimes maybe.
Since then, all my bikes have had scottoilers and I haven't had occaision to change a single chain or sprocket.
However, I was coming to the conclusion that modern levels of power might finally have gone beyond a split link's suitability. And even though my monster makes less hp than the zed did, there's the low torque to consider. So I may well have fitted a rivet link on the monster when the time comes.
But now it seems there's plenty of evidence out there that says otherwise.
I suppose a lot depends on riding style, lube, adjustment etc but I reckon if they're treated right, fitted/removed right (and the right way round) and freely replaced, they're still the right tool for the job.
So thanks, guys. You've restored my faith in the split-link.

[crust]

The side plate of a rivet link is an interference / press fit

Only the ends are made 'soft' to allow deformation / mushrooming, the rest of the link is hardened steel

When CORRECTLY fitted , the rivet link is a much stronger union than any clip-link

CORRECTLY - how do you quantify a correct fitment?

With a split link you can see the link is on, the ends are together, easy visual reference.

Stronger, how so? In tension? You reckon that they make split link side plates of a different material to rivet links?

Not having a personal dig here but stick up some proof, dont tell me what I already know, I've been joining chains for forty years I know how they work.

Maybe you work for Renolds or the like or your an engineering expert like Kato, enlighten me us.

Edited: This isn't a dig, lets have a proper in depth discussion about a technical subject something this board often lacks.

[Starter Sprag]

I too have been joining chains for over 40 years

When correctly fitted, the width of the rivet link, should match exactly the same as the other links, and I don't me + or - 0.0005"

The pins are peened to maintain this measurement

The clip or split link, by it's very nature, permits side clearance / error, which only increases with time

[Nickj]

You don't need much strength as the stresses aren't sideways on the pins. The strength is in the sideplates all the peening or split link does is hold the plate in place.
If you peen it using the (usually) provided spacers the fit will be good, the split link is an equally precise fitting.

[Starter Sprag]

As you have correctly stated........... the 'strength' is in the 'side-plate'

Peening , if done correctly, can maintain the 'fit' for longer

[steve wright]

D.I.D. make a superb chain rivetter. i assure you it will not "bend" and comes with a variety of spacers. Mind you mine was about 60 quid ten years ago, but it takes all the angst out of fitting the things.
As a youth i snapped chains on a bonneville (little damage), a T500 suzuki (written off crankcase and gearbox after it fell out the bottom of the engine as a result) and a GT750 water bottle (small damage which was amazing as wheelying the monstrous thing at the time)
None of the snaps were at split or rivet links by the way. But as a result i lubricate regularly and use only top quality chains. ....starting to sound a bit S and M now...

[Capo]

Chain manufacturers recommend riviting as a result of their testing and experience.
Back in the day, when split links were the norm, the only time I got my chains rivited was at the TT.
Having said that, I have had only one chain failure and that was a split link most probably caused by the clip being assembled in the wrong direction.

These days a chain riviting tool is an essential part of the tool box

[Pomp1]

Split links are the norm in MX, Enduro and SMR bikes, and this things are much harder on the chain/sprocket being bolted directly on the hub. I can't say I've never seen one fail but for the amount of abuse they take on track I think they do a very good job. Of the failed ones I'm not sure how many were down to "operator error" as nobody would actually admit/know. I've go quite good faith in them and, if installed properly, don't see why they should fail. Then again my engineering knowledge is VERY limited, and I'm sure I will be corrected ;)

[jerry]

personally I trust split links more than rivets and will try and get a spare just in case.I have used them on race bikes in the past with no problem

[chris.p]

personally I trust split links more than rivets and will try and get a spare just in case.I have used them on race bikes in the past with no problem



I can only say that you have been lucky then Jerry, Of all the cases I know of when racing is where the chain has parted company from the bike, it has been due to split link failure.

Personaly i would never use a split link in racing, but that is my choice, chain manufacturers recomend the use of soft links, if these are not fitted correctly, then they can fail, but overall, a crrectly fitted soft link is far more secure than a solit link.

Also, have you ever bought a brand new road bike (above 250cc) bike that has a split link in the chain???



Chris.

[Pomp1]

Also, have you ever bought a brand new road bike (above 250cc) bike that has a split link in the chain???



Chris.

I have a 450 that has just that..

[Rally]

I use split links every time, always have done. As has been said already, the strength is in the side plates. Providing you put the link on the right way round, keep the chain adjusted and lubed correctly, there is no problem with them. The new type split links have a much better fitting clip now than they use to as well.
I did a few years of British Championship Enduros using them along with stars like Paul Edmundson, Rob Startin, Si Pavey and the rest of them. If they can stand that abuse, they can handle a mere wheelie or two on the road and with a reasonably constant load by comparison.

You pays your money and takes your choice, I know which mine is. :)

[bigfiretruck]

where can i get a new soft link?? or the sizes for a new soft link, also where do you find the correct size for a split link?

[Rally]

where can i get a new soft link?? or the sizes for a new soft link, also where do you find the correct size for a split link?

Your local bike or bike accessory shop like M & P etc. As to size, it usually says on the link, ie. 520 etc.

[jerry]

problem is different makes have different size pins , DID links wont fit an EK or Tsubaki and visaversa which makes getting links a pain.

[popelli]

personally I trust split links more than rivets and will try and get a spare just in case.I have used them on race bikes in the past with no problem


Lucky you
I had a split link part company, left an 8" crack in the cases to be welded up

[bigfiretruck]

okay, how hard is it to get hold of a pin or a split link for a x-ring did chain?? not sure of the size lol

[Dukedesmo]

Lucky you
I had a split link part company, left an 8" crack in the cases to be welded up

I had an almost new chain that broke the (clip) split link on a KTM 500 which, although fairly powerful, put out less torque than a large V-twin. Luckily did no damage but for the little extra hassle I would always use a rivet link on anything 50hp+.

[Dookbob]

NOT only has the clip on a clip link got to be pointing the right way, it is also dished , so has to have the correct side of the clip facing the chain. Not a lot of people know that, present company excepting of course.

[steve wright]

so which way round for the dishing then?

[Nickj]

I beat the crap out of KDX200's, XR280's, A few KTM 250 & 350EXCs all on split links and all raced very hard through the deepest welsh bogs, Natterjack sand fests and the occasional french and dutch shindig. Never had any problems with drive chains, one XRs cam chain did part fail.. I thought the motor was a bit noisey.
Ran a CR500 at one of the early weston beach races, the chain stretched (well more ground it self away) to about 18 odd inches slack !! but the split link was fine. More than I could say for practically every bearing on the bike though. Luckily it wasn't mine :)
My old RD350LC (Stan Stephens stage 2 tune) did some racing was fine as was the TZR (Terry Beckett tuned) and TZ 250.
The only times I've had chains fail the remains show one sideplate had failed then taken the other with it. The links, snap or peened were still there.
I did the final stages on a Brechfa enduro with no split link at all due to a small oversight. I had a problem that meant I had to take the chain off and the piggin split went ping and flew off into the forest. Ha S'OK I got a spare.. errrr had a spare wot I just lost .. I just wired the plate on .. worked fine though I wouldn't recommend it for daily road use