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View Full Version : Front Sprocket Removal - 2007 S4Rs?


Davidco
01-11-2010, 12:23 PM
Any tips on how to get the front sprocket off? I want to change the 15T sprocket for a 14 T one. I have a rear paddock stand but it isn't one which has an 'arm' to lock-up the back wheel. I have the correct sized socket and 'locked' the back brake on with bike in gear but I couldn't shift the nut. I don't have access to air-tools which I guess might shock the nut loose.

What's the correct torque setting to tighten the sprocket nut to (on the understanding that I can get the original sprocket off )!!

Any advice gratefully received.

Rally
01-11-2010, 12:56 PM
If you loosen the rear wheel off to give the chain as much play as possible, you can cable tie the chain at the front of the swinging arm to hold it loose at the front around the sprocket area. By doing so, with patience and 'four' hands!, you can slip it over the 15 tooth sprocket without splitting the chain. It is a fiddle, but is possible. I have now done it 3 times. The 14 tooth one is easy to push on then.

Which nut are you struggling with? My bike from memory holds the sprocket on wth two M5 bolts and a metal plate that stops it coming off the splines. There is no nut on the front sprocket?

Davidco
01-11-2010, 01:07 PM
Thanks fo the reply. My bike definitely just has a single nut holding the front sprocket on (with a tab washer- I've straightened the flattened side). The bike's a 2007 S4Rs. (The nut is either 32mm or 34mm).

Albie
01-11-2010, 01:11 PM
Any tips on how to get the front sprocket off? I want to change the 15T sprocket for a 14 T one. I have a rear paddock stand but it isn't one which has an 'arm' to lock-up the back wheel. I have the correct sized socket and 'locked' the back brake on with bike in gear but I couldn't shift the nut. I don't have access to air-tools which I guess might shock the nut loose.

What's the correct torque setting to tighten the sprocket nut to (on the understanding that I can get the original sprocket off )!!

Any advice gratefully received.

They can be easy and they can a pain. Ask GaryT. You really need to only use a tool that rotates to undo so try to avoid an impact driver as the shaft has bearings etc. It should come off with a decent socket and Teebar but at the worst you can grind the damn thing off. Its only the heads you need off to be able to twist the clip off.

Albie
01-11-2010, 01:15 PM
Are they different on the RS then. S4 was same as 900 and 1100. I always thought it was 2 bolts like Rally said. Around m6 x 15mm and that lemon shaped twist clip washer.

Any pics for us to see.

Rally
01-11-2010, 02:20 PM
That's got me thinking now? I'm sure mine is just a lock washer with the two bolts on it.............
It is also a 2007 S4Rs though.
I will have to check now to to cure my curiosity!

nambduke
01-11-2010, 02:21 PM
Sounds like the problem I had with my 'nut' on my M1000DS. Ended up with a close fitting socket, breaker bar but in the end I borrowed a wagon wheel torque wrench bar thing off my father which is about 3ft or so long and with the rear wheel locked with a bar over the swingarm (suitably protected with wood and tape etc I finally managed to break the friction. You need to be really brutal. Ps I did try an impact wrench but no joy. Big bar or scaffolding pole is the orderof the day. From memory the torque setting is very high 186Nm when refitting (FT)!! Best of luck......there'll be some sweat expended I feel on this 'easy' task!!!! Have read of my easy mod!
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=27507&highlight=Sprocket
Regards
Mark