Oil

[Char]

OK want to keep this simple - know its a bit of a minefield and my brain is hurting - :dunce:

S4r - oil change - Mobile 1 for car - yes or no - (cost is not a concern) -

I have read too many opinions so keep it brief- yes / no or what oil do you use in your bike with a dry clutch

[Char]

Oh yes and 15 - 50 I have been told - is that correct?

[bialbero]

Yes.

Motul 300V double ester 15W-50. around 45£ for 4litres. safe on cold start down to -5 degree centigrade

[slob]

Rock Oil Synthesis4 Racing

[Starter Sprag]

NO

use only motorbike specific oil

15W50 full synthetic

any of the top brands

[bialbero]

very interesting starter sprag!
so why is mobil1 fully synthetic 15W-50 not good for bike engines?

[Starter Sprag]

To keep it simple

The oil in a car is just for the engine

The oil in your bike is for the engine AND gearbox

[bialbero]

like your style rob. you go down the ester route too. good choice

M

[bialbero]

so, starter sprag,
what is a good oil for a bike engine?

[slob]

she said 'keep it brief'

[Pomp1]

To keep it simple

The oil in a car is just for the engine

The oil in your bike is for the engine AND gearbox

AFAIK bike specific oil only applies to wet clutches, so the answer could be yes.. Some car oil can be used, for example ,with wet clutches if they're marked MA2(better than MA1).Is all down to "energy saving" stuff and friction modifiers.
BTW I'm with Slob, Rock Oil

[bialbero]

she said 'keep it brief'

a subject like this and many others will never be brief

you even find HALFORDS own blend's being highly recommended by people

[bialbero]

well said pomp1.
rock oil amongst a few other companies use the benefits of ester in their synthetic oil. good oil adhesion, stable molecules, wide and high temperature window

[slob]

LOL. Any oil is better than no oil in an emergency... usually.

[bialbero]

I see.
Thought we are talking oil change, not top up

[slob]

Indeed.

And whilst wet clutch is specifically outside the scope of the original question,
many recommend a semi-synth with a wet clutch to avoid slipping, although I've never had any problems with my 620 running the same Rock Oil as the 1000 since ditching the original duff plates ~30k miles ago.

[LouSCannon]

Can I use vegetable oil, like I can in my car?

[bialbero]

wet clutches are not as tricky anymore, since the friction material has changed from organic to sintermetal material
it was more a thing some 20 odd years ago

[bialbero]

Can I use vegetable oil, like I can in my car?

I understand you use vegetable oil for combustion and not for lubrication

[LouSCannon]

So I can use rocks but not vegetables?

[bialbero]

you can use rocks. make sure you put them trough a meat grinder before (right viscosity)

[gary tompkins]

wet clutches are not as tricky anymore, since the friction material has changed from organic to sintermetal material
it was more a thing some 20 odd years ago

I used full sythetic shell advance in my 600 monster, and the clutch slipped like a bitch. That was a 1995 bike so less than 20 years old. I now wouldn't risk full syth on a wet clutch monster. Anti friction additives can permanently contaminate the plates, and it's an expensive mistake to make. My argument would be if semi synthetic works why pay more for higher spec oil?

Oh and FWIW i currently use Mobil semi sythetic 10/40 in the trike, and have done for the last 5000 miles

[slob]

<historical_note>Duckhams, dyed green to show it was castor not mineral based. An engine run on it never seemed happy on anything else afterwards.</historical_note>

[Pomp1]

So I can use rocks but not vegetables?

Depends largely on the rock and vegetables.

[Pomp1]

LOL. Any oil is better than no oil in an emergency... usually.

If your emergency is no oil you've got bigger problems than which oil:rolleyes:

[BluprintZ]

I used Morris, semi-synth in the M900 @ 15/40.
I'm using the same in the Thruxton.
Any overhead cam engine should really use fairly low weight oil, due to the size of the oilways that feed the camshaft.
Heavier oil takes too long to thin out as it warms up, with the result that the top-end can be starved much more than if a lighter weight is used and the first start-up is really when you need the oil to be doing it's job.
Remember the camshaft rattle of the Pinto engine, used in many 1980's Fords?

G ; )

[bialbero]

[QUOTE=Char;362248]OK want to keep this simple - know its a bit of a minefield and my brain is hurting - :dunce:

S4r - oil change - Mobile 1 for car - yes or no - (cost is not a concern) -

I have read too many opinions so keep it brief- yes / no or what oil do you use in your bike with a dry clutch[/QUOTE

Remember, this was the original Question!

[PDL]

Shell Advance Ultra 4 - 10/40

[Char]

Rock Oil Synthesis4 Racing


Well thanks for keeping it simple - you boys :toilet:

Have gone for the above becuase its what my local dealer can get

[analogue_rogue]

i have fully synth shell in my m600 98 and the clutch is fine has been for about 1000 miles.. made it to varying raf bases round the country no probs :D

[animaluk]

I used Morris, semi-synth in the M900 @ 15/40.
I'm using the same in the Thruxton.
Any overhead cam engine should really use fairly low weight oil, due to the size of the oilways that feed the camshaft.
Heavier oil takes too long to thin out as it warms up, with the result that the top-end can be starved much more than if a lighter weight is used and the first start-up is really when you need the oil to be doing it's job.
Remember the camshaft rattle of the Pinto engine, used in many 1980's Fords?

G ; )

Morris oil is good, a 25lt drum is only £127

[Grumpy]

As a point of note, Hein Gerike oil is acutally Motul as nearly half the price.