Lowering gauges

[rac3r]

OK so I've lowered my headlight the way scrapps did his and ditched the whole U bracket. So I thought to lower the gauges all I had to do was mount it underneath but it won't go! The brake/clutch lines block the back of the gauges :banghead:

Any ideas? Better still anyone want to do it for me? :mand:

[littlejimmy12]

OK so I've lowered my headlight the way scrapps did his and ditched the whole U bracket. So I thought to lower the gauges all I had to do was mount it underneath but it won't go! The brake/clutch lines block the back of the gauges :banghead:

Any ideas? Better still anyone want to do it for me? :mand:

have u kept the original bracket? just in case need to start again and use the original bracket to mount the clocks on

[rac3r]

have u kept the original bracket? just in case need to start again and use the original bracket to mount the clocks on

Yep still got everything

[Panther]

Which bracket did you go for, got any photo's?

I finally got my bike back today from the garage (4 weeks to do a service, change brake line and tires!!!) and am looking to do the same but with the prospect of a different headlight.

Can everything just be cabled down, Or could you use the original bolt holes for the U-bracket, to mount a new bracket?

[Panther]

Lowering gauges, do you mean clock's (speedo etc)

Can the banjo's be twisted to accommodate the clock's? If the clock had spacers, i.e lowered even more would it fit then?


And people think fitting clipp ons was a quick 30min job :chuckle:

I will post some pics of my new lines and clocks tomorrow. (I do need to find so new rubbers mounts for it though)

[rac3r]

I bought the fork mount headlight brackets, they just about fit before the forks taper out again. The cables are fine only the brake/clutch lines are in the way because of the way they bend.

BTW I broke one of my rubbers so as I got rid of the air sensor frame I used one from there as they are the same so you could try that instead of getting new ones

Clip ons hah! more like a 3 week job :chuckle:

[skank]

What fork headlight mount brackets?

[rac3r]

What fork headlight mount brackets?

A pair I bought off ebay they came with brackets to mount a fairing as well, give me 10 mins and I'll upload a picture :running:

[rac3r]

Here they are, not a great pic but you get the idea

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/DSCN0594.jpg

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/MOTORCYCLE-UNIVERSAL-HEADLIGHT-BRACKETS-STREETFIGHTER-/230430155192?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item35a6b521b8

If you want to mount it lower than that you'll need a bigger size

[simons]

I suggest you re route your throttle cable and not cable tie anything to it. It needs to be as free moving as possible otherwise it may bind

[rac3r]

I suggest you re route your throttle cable and not cable tie anything to it. It needs to be as free moving as possible otherwise it may bind

OK will do. Where should I re-route it?

[slob]

Anywhere that avoids it being kinked or tied to other cables.
Once the choke (enrichener) is off, turn the bars from lock to lock and make sure this doesn't cause the engine revs to change.
I rotated the whole twistgrip when I fitted clip-ons, the cable now exits above rather than below the bar.

[rac3r]

OK thanks, I sort that out today :thumbsup: Is it the same for the choke cable as well?

[rac3r]

Slob have you got a pic of your throttle cable?

BTW this is the problem regarding lowering the clocks:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/DSCN0595.jpg

The only way it can get any lower is by removing the rubbers

[slob]

I can take a picure but it won't be before Thursday evening.
I don't think you want to lose the rubbers, they protect your clocks from vibration.

ps. you may want to remove the white nylon bushes from the top yoke and keep them with the U-bracket, otherwise they may vibrate loose and get lost

[rac3r]

I can take a picure but it won't be before Thursday evening.
I don't think you want to lose the rubbers, they protect your clocks from vibration.

ps. you may want to remove the white nylon bushes from the top yoke and keep them with the U-bracket, otherwise they may vibrate loose and get lost

Yeah I left it there in case it all went wrong and the bracket had to go back on :chuckle: but don't worry I'll remove it before the bike goes anywhere :thumbsup:

EDIT: looking at that picture again I don't think the clocks would go any lower even if it could reach the holes because of the headlight

[simons]

some pics of mine: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/106486645961850876120/20100526?authkey=Gv1sRgCJuiqorkvLCAlQE#

[rac3r]

some pics of mine: http://picasaweb.google.co.uk/106486645961850876120/20100526?authkey=Gv1sRgCJuiqorkvLCAlQE#

Thank you very very much!!!

I think I know what needs doing now.

BTW your bike looks awesome! :cool:

[littlejimmy12]

simons is one of the nicest monsters I've seen, very tidy with meticulous attn to detail

but he makes a crap cuppa T :chuckle:

[rac3r]

I can't loosen the banjo for the brake/clutch lines, it won't budge. Any tips on getting it loose? WD40?

[Panther]

Loosening the banjo's sometime take a bit of force (from experience) but be careful! otherwise your spanner might go flying into your tank or you could end up round the bolts like you did on your clipon's


Simon's bike is very nice, I like the exposed belts

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_rlhHTAzGV-0/S_0i34NhBgI/AAAAAAAAABU/aLmvQ1na5IE/s640/052.jpg


Well here's pics of my front end, not sure if it really helps as I've got new lines.

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9v5WXNjIDSo/S_1Qz2ZFgsI/AAAAAAAAEZU/BilSEW8u5_I/s640/IMG_0959.JPG


http://lh5.ggpht.com/_9v5WXNjIDSo/S_1Q0ht12BI/AAAAAAAAEZY/ytuSkS0wX8k/s640/IMG_0961.JPG


check out my u bracket, lol
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9v5WXNjIDSo/S_1Q1rsUz_I/AAAAAAAAEZc/R6yjLIjOipc/s512/IMG_0962.JPG

http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9v5WXNjIDSo/S_1Q2lq6JNI/AAAAAAAAEZg/kEjmVivDwAM/s640/IMG_0963.JPG
yes there is different bolts holding the clock, thats just temporary as I have been using loads of washers as spaces for when I fit some rubber mounts.

[rac3r]

Looks great! pics are helpful :thumbsup:

The reason mine won't go is because the banjos are facing up :D So once I've sorted that out it should go on nicely.

The problem I'm having is when I try and loosen the banjo using a socket the whole bloody lever and master cylinder moves!

One day I'll finish......

[Panther]

get your adjustable on the lever and push in the opposite direction

[rac3r]

OK so clocks are lowered! :D

One question what did you guys use to replace the rubber thing or is it OK without?

I've also decided to lower the head light the normal way by cutting down the U bracket etc. I've left it at the tool man who's going to sort it out for me.

(If anyone wants those other brackets let me know :thumbsup: )

[littlejimmy12]

u need the rubber bits as dampners, unless you like your clocks to rattle about and eventually fall to pieces on londons pitted road surface, god knows where to find replacements - plumbers??

[rac3r]

u need the rubber bits as dampners, unless you like your clocks to rattle about and eventually fall to pieces on londons pitted road surface, god knows where to find replacements - plumbers??

I just went to a plumbers warehouse (near brent cross shopping park) and he looked at me all funny and said we don't do those sort of things :scratch:

[Panther]

You could try to get your hands on some rubber grommets, (not perfect but will work)

[Albie]

Erm B&Q tap washers around 70p. I used them on the s4 when I dropped the clocks down about 12mm.

[rac3r]

If I want the 'proper' ones what should I ask for in the plumbers shop?

Failing that I'll use Albie's idea :thumbsup:

[simons]

i used 5mm rubber rawlnuts for damping. Put them a 5mm threaded rod, insert them into the holes in the clocks and screw the lot underneath the top yoke. http://www.hyperbolt.com/hyperbolt/product-list.php?passed_sub_category_recno=21&passed_sub_category_name=Screen/Fairing%20Nuts&passed_product_thumbnail=cat-1269604245.jpg

[rac3r]

i used 5mm rubber rawlnuts for damping. Put them a 5mm threaded rod, insert them into the holes in the clocks and screw the lot underneath the top yoke. http://www.hyperbolt.com/hyperbolt/product-list.php?passed_sub_category_recno=21&passed_sub_category_name=Screen/Fairing%20Nuts&passed_product_thumbnail=cat-1269604245.jpg

Nice one

Simons to the rescue again! :running:

[Panther]

you got to love the bay :)

http://shop.ebay.co.uk/?_from=R40&_trksid=p3907.m570.l1313&_nkw=FAIRING+NUTS&_sacat=See-All-Categories

[rac3r]

Might have a look round the shops tomorrow, if not online it will be!

[littlejimmy12]

i used 5mm rubber rawlnuts for damping. Put them a 5mm threaded rod, insert them into the holes in the clocks and screw the lot underneath the top yoke. http://www.hyperbolt.com/hyperbolt/product-list.php?passed_sub_category_recno=21&passed_sub_category_name=Screen/Fairing%20Nuts&passed_product_thumbnail=cat-1269604245.jpg

the man knows his mods!

[rac3r]

I got those rubber fairing nuts but they don't fit inside the holes on the clocks so they sit how they were normally on top of the rubbers (see drawing if you don't understand :D ) that should be fine but the bottom rim of the clocks touches the top yoke is that ok ?

Here is my master piece!

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/clocks.jpg

[simons]

No mate, nothing should be touching the clocks. Kinda defeats the purpose of having them damped on rubber if there are vibrating things touching. The rubber rawlnuts should fit inside the clocks, trim rawlnuts with stanley knife or buy rawlnuts which fit. Also if clocks are mounted too low, like in your drawing, as well as fouling on the top yoke, you wont be able to fit the headlamp. Here are some pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/106486645961850876120/HeadlightMod#

[rac3r]

Thought so. I'll trim the rawlnuts as they're only out by a couple of mm. Thanks for the pictures :thumbsup:

[rac3r]

Clocks are on :thumbsup:

As for the headlight bracket, the fairing mounts need to be cut off because again they block the lines :grump: