Help Please!!!!

[rac3r]

Following from my other thread I got sent some clip ons that fit. I've been battling for ages and after pretty much disassembling the front of the bike I've managed to get them on! :woot:

Now comes the joy of re routing all the cables. Can someone help me at as to what to do and how to do it?

Thanks

[rac3r]

Surely someone with clip ons knows what I'm on about?????

[Dave G]

Umm, what is it you specifically need to know.


Other than its a pain in the bum to get all that hosing and wires into a smaller space.:scratch:;):dizzy::biggrin:

[rac3r]

Well basically I've put the clip ons on (below the top yoke) and need to mount everything back on. The brake and clutch lines seem too long??? so I wanted to know if I can keep the lines by re-routing them and if so which route :chuckle:

[Dave G]

There isn't a right or wrong way, its a chinese puzzle thats actually the hardest part of fitting clip ons. Patience and being methodical when trying different configurations is whats needed, though you may have to face the possibility that the original lines may not fit back on very easily if at all.
loosen them up from the bottom yoke fittings until everything else is fitted for a start.
My biggest headache was neither my OE or the new lines I bought didn't fit for different reasons, the first due to the length of the lines and the fittings didnt match my uprated calipers, the second more frustratingly, because the double bolt for twin lines was just too long to fit the space left between the master cylinder and the(lowered) headlight mount, in the end I used an SS single/split line configuration.

[Panther]

I guessing your mainly talking about brake and clutch lines? I found due to the angle of the clipons It was very hard to reattach the banjo's to the masters. With alot of bending people have made it fit. cable ties would help too. (I ended up scratching up the back of the headlight the first time round when trying to fit them.

I've in the process of getting new lines made up. I know it's an extra cost but I bit the bullet.


Good luck!


edit had to relog it and just reread your post

[rac3r]

So fit everything else now then the lines last?

At the moment my brake lines are one from each caliper then go into a splitter thing into one line to the master cylinder.

[Dave G]

So fit everything else now then the lines last?

At the moment my brake lines are one from each caliper then go into a splitter thing into one line to the master cylinder.

I'd get the brake lines to sit properly first otherwise you'll end up taking it all apart again.
Your biggest issue may be where the lines goes to straight off the master as that sets the direction from which it has to bend, you can try rotating it around the banjo bolt to see if you can route it across the top of the lights for instance,it may or may not work for you but everything has to be tried to get the best solution for your mod.

Figure out if theres anything in ther you can get rid of, I ditched the sensor frame on my S2R, I dont know if your 620 has the same set up but the air sensor can be zip tied to another cable instead and that helps free up a little space.

[Panther]

Dave G right about getting the brake line to fit properly first.

Are you trying to fit it with your clocks, headlight and u bracket removed?

[rac3r]

I have removed the clocks and headlight...well they're hanging there :chuckle:

I will have a mess around again tomorrow and see what I can do. By the sensor frame do you mean the thing that is kind of hooked under the clocks and goes down to behind the headlight where it's screwed on to the headlight bracket? Sorry as you can see I'm a n00b when it comes to this kind of stuff :D

[littlejimmy12]

when thing, be very careful that you have got good play with both the throttle and break cable on full look, you don't want either too short, turn a bend and find you suddenly start braking or accelerating. My throttle cable like your's is too long. I will when I can be arsed sort it out.

[Pomp1]

go down a scrapyard and get some brake lines off bikes there, when I still had the splitter on the front line I used the the upper line (master to splitter) off an SV 650, but mine were above the yoke. My suggestion is you invest in some braided lines, Venhill or Hel, the SS are about 5 cm longer than the monster.

[rac3r]

go down a scrapyard and get some brake lines off bikes there, when I still had the splitter on the front line I used the the upper line (master to splitter) off an SV 650, but mine were above the yoke. My suggestion is you invest in some braided lines, Venhill or Hel, the SS are about 5 cm longer than the monster.

If I did have to order new lines what size would I need? If I go onto the hel website which one would it be as it won't be the 620 Monster lines.

I'll still have a try today and see what I can do

Thanks everyone so far!

[Panther]

A while back someone posted a link to were you can get order custom goodridge lines, sorry I cant find it.

But

All the companies lines are made to order, so you best to give H.E.L a call or email.

In terms of length. I would tell them you need 620 style brake line but say how how much they need to be shortened. You can also choose which angle of banjo. My new ones will be straight banjo on mine where they were 30o??? before.

Now you can go for some funky lime green colored lines too :yoparty:

Someone might be able to advise better.

[rac3r]

Is it worth me messing around with the stock ones then?

Also can the position of the banjo be adjusted without bleeding the system?

Thanks

[Pomp1]

Is it worth me messing around with the stock ones then?

Also can the position of the banjo be adjusted without bleeding the system?

Thanks

Braided lines are better when you get the brakes under stress, if you do, say, a 10 miles commute in traffic every day, they hardly be worth the extra £££, BUT on a long/hard sunday ride/track will make a difference, other than that they look better. The banjo *could* be adjusted without bleeding but you'll soon know if air got in (spongy lever and all that) if you fit the lines, make sure they don't bend/kink/foul anything and then do a reverse bleeding.
Clip-ons, not as straight forward as it sounds, is it?:D

[giler]

As Dave said a mtter of patience and trial and error.
I removed clocks and light to give more room, my throttle cables run from bottom of throttle now instaed of top - if you know what I mean:scratch:

[rac3r]

Clip-ons, not as straight forward as it sounds, is it?:D

Helllll no! :chuckle:

BTW I think I have steel lines already:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050140.jpg

Anyway off I go into the garage to see what I can do!

[rac3r]

Right, I've managed to do something: All the cables including throttle have been re-routed to go under the indicator bracket, the brake line goes over the bracket. This is where I'm not sure, I've added some pics so take a look and let me know what you think :thumbsup:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050144.jpg

Brake line:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050145.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050146.jpg

[rac3r]

Yes?No?Maybe? :D

[gary tompkins]

Check the bars don't hit the tank on full lock

[slob]

Those forks look very low in the yokes, the steering may seem quite 'lazy' as a result.
Also the clip-ons appear to be on the wrong sides to me (ie they're upside down).

[rac3r]

The forks and yokes are exactly how they were so I'm not sure there and yes they are upside down :chuckle: At first I did it by accident then decided I prefer them like that as they come up a little rather than drop down.

Clearance is fine but I need to adjust the lock stop because the bracket for the clip ons touches the frame on full lock.

What about the lines, do they seem ok? And Slob what do I do about the forks?

[uksurfer]

strangely they do look to be pointing up, might be the camera angle.

[rac3r]

strangely they do look to be pointing up, might be the camera angle.

Nope they're upside down :D

[slob]

If the forks are where they where before and you where happy with the speed of the steering, leave them.

[Capo]

Not a good idea to have that brake line touching the headlamp bracket.
Also you seem to have a problem with the throttle grip.

[Nickj]

The brake and clutch lines seem too long???

A fresh hacksaw blade, a roll of gaffer tape and a few small hose clamps will sort that out noooooo problem :) Honest!!

[rac3r]

Not a good idea to have that brake line touching the headlamp bracket.
Also you seem to have a problem with the throttle grip.

The grip was like that before but I'll sort that out later. First these damn lines!!!

Can someone post a pic of theirs to give me some help please? :thumbsup:

[rac3r]

I'm not having much luck, the best I could get was in the pictures above. Might have to order some shorter lines :thumbsdown: Unless anyone has any other ideas?

[Panther]

If you did the lower headlight mod, then the headlight bracket would be lower and would not cause friction.
Or you can get a separate headlight bracket that comes of the forks?

[rac3r]

If you did the lower headlight mod, then the headlight bracket would be lower and would not cause friction.
Or you can get a separate headlight bracket that comes of the forks?

Hmm you have a point there. How much is this other bracket? Any links?

Sorry for all the questions!

[Panther]

look on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIGHWAY-HAWK-WAVE-HEADLAMP-BRACKETS-47mm-50mm-/290388293673?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item439c7db829

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WINKER-LIGHT-INDICATOR-LIGHT-BRACKETS-47-50-MM-/150440699991?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2306f6e857

[rac3r]

look on ebay

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/HIGHWAY-HAWK-WAVE-HEADLAMP-BRACKETS-47mm-50mm-/290388293673?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item439c7db829

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/WINKER-LIGHT-INDICATOR-LIGHT-BRACKETS-47-50-MM-/150440699991?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2306f6e857

Thanks,

I think that's the best way to go, something like the £26 one would be fine :thumbsup:

[Panther]

the £26 one are actually for indicator, they also don't stick out enough to mount the headlight directly without another bracket.

there is some on scrapps bike.

http://ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=32223

If you are going to lower you headlight you should pm littlejimmy as he has just done this

[rac3r]

the £26 one are actually for indicator, they also don't stick out enough to mount the headlight directly without another bracket.

there is some on scrapps bike.

http://ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=32223

If you are going to lower you headlight you should pm littlejimmy as he has just done this

After I replied I found some which M&P do so I'll probably get those. I don't want to be doing all that cutting and welding stuff because I'll just mess it up :chuckle:

(I'm getting riding withdrawal symptoms now!)

[rac3r]

Should I get rid of the whole U bracket or just the side mounts?

[rac3r]

I've found a couple more options:

1) Use the same bracket but cut a piece out to allow the lines to sit properly

2) Move those bracket pieces (holding the light + indis) down but then it will only be attached to the U bracket using one hole on each side

What do you think?

[rac3r]

Time to throw another idea into the mix!

Have a look here http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1050.0 scroll down a little to 'scooter montgomery's' post. I'm not going to cut the bracket but you see the 5th picture where he added the metal strip basically making 3 bolts moving the headlight lower that's what I think I'm going to do. It means I can use all the original pieces while lowering the headlight and leaving room for the lines

[MagnaJeep]

It's not the best choice as you couldn't fit the windscreen anymore.
Even if it doesn't matter having the option of fitting one should
be kept.

Do it once and do it properly, you will not regret it.

Didn't cost me more than 10 Euro, just had to find someone
who is able to weld aluminum.

[Capo]

Time to throw another idea into the mix!

Have a look here http://ducatimonsterforum.org/index.php?topic=1050.0 scroll down a little to 'scooter montgomery's' post. I'm not going to cut the bracket but you see the 5th picture where he added the metal strip basically making 3 bolts moving the headlight lower that's what I think I'm going to do. It means I can use all the original pieces while lowering the headlight and leaving room for the lines

You could fit the clip ons the right way up, this would direct the lines up above the bracket (as they were designed to do)

[rac3r]

You could fit the clip ons the right way up, this would direct the lines up above the bracket (as they were designed to do)

Will this definitely work? It would be perfect if it did!

[simons]

if you can ride the bike bring it over to west london and i'll show you what to do, might even lend a hand. I'm the guy who did both of littlejimmy's bikes as well as my own, they all turned out pretty well. I chopped out about four inches out of Jimmy's s4's bar and headlamp height and used all the original lines, no new brackets and no welding.

[rac3r]

I'll try one last thing tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll let you know. Thanks for the offer :thumbsup:

[rac3r]

I don't think its meant to be. One allen bolt on each clip on has rounded off :Furious:

[uksurfer]

i think Simons idea was a good one!
if you can get it rideable, worth a shot and two minds etc :ukm:

[Albie]

Scrapps ones work well and he now has the clip ons too. He uses standard hoses. Comfortable too as I had a nice sit on it.

[rac3r]

The hoses are fine, everything should be actually. I just need to swap the clip ons over so they are the right way round but the bolts rounded off so now I need to sort that

[rac3r]

Here are the two and one on the other side stopping progress:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050149.jpg

If you ever buy PP Clip ons DO NOT use the original bolts as they are made of Cheese!

[Dave G]

I think you can try an oversize torx bit in that,it'll need a tap to get it in but should enable you to undo it and get another set of bolts to replace them.

I agree with Capo in that if your clamps were the right way up yout clearance issues might be easier to sort.

[rac3r]

I think you can try an oversize torx bit in that,it'll need a tap to get it in but should enable you to undo it and get another set of bolts to replace them.

I agree with Capo in that if your clamps were the right way up yout clearance issues might be easier to sort.

Yeah just my luck for not having the right size Torx bit, I only have the small ones. I'll have to buy some tomorrow.

I really want it sorted by the weekend. Have you seen what the weather is going to be like! :rolleyes:

[rac3r]

Nearly there now.....

[rac3r]

OK here's what I've got now. Seem OK? :on:

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050153.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050157.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050154.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050158.jpg

http://i655.photobucket.com/albums/uu274/rac3r786/S1050155.jpg

[Panther]

Progress.......... :) you might need a few cable ties to hold the brake/clutch lines in place when fitting the headlight. I ended up scratching the back of my headlight on them

[simons]

Are your indicators going to fit back on?

[rac3r]

Yep I'm going to do cable ties as well. Just wanted to make sure everything was OK before I start doing it.

As for indicators I'm going to fit smaller ones so they should fit :thumbsup:

[rac3r]

2 Small problems:

1) One of the screws for the clocks with the rubber bit has come off, how can I stick it back?

2) I need to adjust the steering lock (as in full lock not security lock) as the clamp for the clip ons touches the frame. I looked in the ws manual and it says I need to use a feeler gauge which I don't have. Is there any other way?

Nearly there......

[Capo]

1. You can not really stick it back on (I'm surprised you were able to seperate it) a new one shouldn't cost too much.
2. Feeler gauge !!! back off the lock nut and back out the screw until you have sufficient clearance.

[Dave G]

2 Small problems:

1) One of the screws for the clocks with the rubber bit has come off, how can I stick it back?


Nearly there......

You cant, it's goosed.
Your best best now is to get a similar threaded screw and use plumbers washers as spacers, or, order a new one from a dealer, no idea how much they are, probably not as much as a japanese equivalent if that helps..

Here's how I did mine and though my clocks are beneath the top yoke the same set up should work with the clocks above it.
http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=28367&highlight=lowering+headlight

[rac3r]

Thanks guys. Any ideas on a quick fix for the clocks so i can ride this weekend? one of the bolts are still in place

[rac3r]

You win jimmy! the screen won't fit back on because the lines are blocking the holes and I can't be bothered to do it all again :chuckle:

At some point I'll lower the clocks and gauges but for now :moto:

BTW that rubber bit that came off under the clocks has left the washer bit behind which won't budge!

[rac3r]

Todays update.....

Everything is back together including the headlight :mand: Although it is VERY tight behind there.

One thing, I adjusted the lock stops leaving about 1cm of space on either side but then went to put the steering lock on and it wouldn't go :banghead: So adjusted again and now the steering lock works but there is only about 1-2mm of gap between the clip on clamp and the frame on full lock. Is that OK?

Apart from that it's pretty much sorted just 2 minor things need to be done but I'm waiting for parts:

1) The rubber bit for the clocks (At the moment held on by one on the left and a cable tie on the right)

2) Need a proper position for the indis

.....Tomorrow test ride day :cool: