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gregski
19-11-2009, 08:30 AM
six months ago I had a little crash on my 620ie ( some ass in BMW drive straight in to by back side ), damage tail unit and swing arm. I decided to get it of the road and get some work done on it. done all the repairs and now it comes the time to start it, and that's where problem starts.
after I turn the ignition key one of the two relays keep clicking constantly, all the lights and clocks come on normally. when i remove the clicking right hand relay with the ignition on and put it back it stops clicking, pres the starter button and starter motor try to turn but after a second it stops and relay start to jump again. I'm just wondering is it anything obvious or do I need to go to the garage ?
maybe some one has a similar problem

thanks Greg

Stafford
19-11-2009, 08:49 AM
Battery.....

gregski
19-11-2009, 08:56 AM
battery is new

giler
19-11-2009, 09:14 AM
Faulty relay.....

jimbo696
19-11-2009, 09:25 AM
Which relay is it?

Paivi
19-11-2009, 10:28 AM
Is the battery charged, as they usually come flat as new?

gregski
19-11-2009, 11:38 AM
the battery is charged and I took other one from R6 to test.

faulty relay hmmm it happens when I swap them around so don't think is the relay.

and is not the main one and I don't known how the other is called.
when I remove that relay the starter motor turns but bike won't start :(
O and I notice that when you turn ignition key on the fuel pump is not making the characteristic noise

Paivi
19-11-2009, 12:05 PM
Give Matt/Al (Unit18 on this and other Ducati sites) a call at Ducati Proteam for a diagnosis. If they can't help, they can come and pick the bike up, fix it and bring it back to you. Pick up and delivery is free...

Unit 18
19-11-2009, 01:31 PM
Hi, if you mean the two small relays mounted next to the battery, they are notoriously weak and can fail, one is the main relay, the other is the fuel pump. When you swap them does the clicking still occur in the same station?
If not its probably the relay, if it does it suggests a more complex fault.
The starter system works through the ECU (see pic) and not a simple solenoid (although it does have that as well) so it can take a bit of searching to find the fault.

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l226/Laguna1972/img033.jpg

gregski
19-11-2009, 03:47 PM
just before I reed #9 I went to check again and it is the flue pump relay after I disconnect the plug from the tank it stopped.
would it be worth to take a pump a part ?? maybe it's something simple ??

Arbeia
19-11-2009, 06:18 PM
Emergency cut off switch?

Trent
19-11-2009, 06:46 PM
would it be worth to take a pump a part ?? maybe it's something simple ??

I left a Monster 620 sitting for 12 months once - when I went to fire it up, the fuel pump didn't make it's normal whiring noise.

When I sniffed the fuel in the tank, I found it had gone off, so I drained the tank and pulled the fuel pump out.
It was chocker block full of "gunk" from the stale fuel and wouldn't turn - I managed to clean it out and got it working again, but didn't use it as I didn't want to trust it.

I bought a cheap one off ebay (from a 916 I think) and fitted that - I just used the actual motor / pump as it was the same, but the rest of the setup was different.

Sounds like you may have a similar problem...

slob
19-11-2009, 06:55 PM
I've heard of problems with fuel pumps several times on bikes that have been stood idle. Usually when the tanks dry though.

gregski
21-11-2009, 07:58 AM
I left a Monster 620 sitting for 12 months once - when I went to fire it up, the fuel pump didn't make it's normal whiring noise.

When I sniffed the fuel in the tank, I found it had gone off, so I drained the tank and pulled the fuel pump out.
It was chocker block full of "gunk" from the stale fuel and wouldn't turn - I managed to clean it out and got it working again, but didn't use it as I didn't want to trust it.

I bought a cheap one off ebay (from a 916 I think) and fitted that - I just used the actual motor / pump as it was the same, but the rest of the setup was different.

Sounds like you may have a similar problem...

I was about to take the pump a part this weekend but I'm not well so it will have to wait til monday.

I'll keep you posted

gregski
23-11-2009, 10:08 PM
Ok so I took fuel pump out and well it looks normal and clean, took the motor out of the casing and connected to the battery - runs ok so I put it back and plug the pump to the socket but the problem is steel present :/

I'm thinking not the pump is the problem but whatever supply the pump relay ?? but after I disconnect the pump from the bike and turn the ignition on there is 9 volts on the plug so if the supply to the relay was faulty relay will keep clicking no mater if the pump is connected to the bike or not.

or maybe I'm just talking rubbish ??

Stafford
23-11-2009, 10:32 PM
9 volts seems a bit low to say the least which would explain why your relays are clicking just like mine did once........battery.

Jim66a
24-11-2009, 05:58 AM
You need to check the voltage across the battery terminals, It should be at least 12v. If the battery is reading 12v but you have only 9v at your relay socket then I'd be looking at for a corroded connector in the loom and double checking the earths on the engine. 9v is extremely flat, possible that a cell has failed in the battery. Your relays are clicking because when the relay coil is energised and the switch contacts your battery voltage drops even lower and its not enough to keep the coil energised so the switch contact breaks allowing voltage to rise and re energise the coil...... and so on.

gregski
24-11-2009, 10:49 AM
Ok so I went to buy a new battery "CT12B-4" 100 pounds what? !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm just wondering is it have to be that particular type ?? or any battery will do ??

and any one knows where I can buy it cheaper then 100 pounds ??

I found this on ebay what do you think ??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Ducati-ST2-01-03-MF-Super-Sealed-Gel-Battery-CT12B-4_W0QQitemZ140299324010QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Motor cycle_Parts?hash=item20aa7dca6a#ht_1957wt_724

Cheers Greg

Pomp1
24-11-2009, 11:05 AM
what about this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/YUASA-YT12B-BS-MOTORCYCLE-BATTERY-APRILIA-DUCATI-YAMAHA_W0QQitemZ390113028730QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_ Motorcycle_Parts?hash=item5ad48c6a7a#ht_1058wt_116 7 check with someone that'll fit thought!
100 quid is waaaaaay over the top!

BluprintZ
24-11-2009, 03:20 PM
100 squids?? someone is havin' a laff mate, you should be able to get a new battery AND get the system checked out by an auto-electrician for less than that.
As has already been mentioned, there's either a short or corroded connection/earth somewhere on the bike.

G ; )

Albie
24-11-2009, 04:28 PM
£50 is dear unless its a gel one.

uksurfer
24-11-2009, 05:08 PM
think i paid £60 for my M600, sold it a month later for £20 :twak:

Albie
24-11-2009, 05:17 PM
You was robbed too then LOL:twak:

uksurfer
24-11-2009, 05:20 PM
robbed once when i bought it and robbed again when i sold it to Liz! Never mind :spin:

Gamsa
24-11-2009, 07:59 PM
Try disconnecting the clicking relay and measuring the voltage across the battery before and after switching the ignition on. This will only be a minimal load but will give an idea of whether the battery can keep up to 12V whilst producing current.

chris yeatman
24-11-2009, 08:22 PM
to be on the safe side, why not charge the battery that u have got, because u may be getting 12v with a multimeter but wen u put a load on to the battery it may be dropping volts,
then take it to local motor garage they could do a drop test on the battery for u.
if the battery stays at about 11v then its ok but any lower then its no good.

Paivi
24-11-2009, 08:49 PM
I bought a Varta YT12B-BS for my 695 and it was £46 from my local scooter shop. They even charged it for me. My problem wasn't the battery, though, after all but my immobiliser.

gary tompkins
24-11-2009, 09:14 PM
Normal lead acid battery for monster £50-60. I paid £62 for a H/Duty varta battery on the trike.

Maintainance free Gel type around £20 more

battery is new

How new?

New as in prior to the bike being smashed?

If it's stood for 6 months un-charged the battery may be knackered. Immobilisers gradually drain a battery until so flat they become virtually un-salvagable. That's why regular use of an optimate if the bike's laid up is advisable, unless you like replacing batteries every few years for a laugh.

Current battery on trike is 5 years old and doing fine + optimate.

gregski
25-11-2009, 05:14 PM
I got a new gel battery today 50 pounds it looks like a good price, fitted in but the problem is steel there.
I measure voltage on the main relay coil and is 12 v but on the pump relay is only 9 ??
I check the neutral links the the engine and they are ok. Try to trace the cable from the relay coil but it's one hell of the mission:/

maybe someone has got a wiring diagram for 620ie 04 Reg?? I've got old 900 and is not the same
As I'm an electrician I will try my luck first.

Thanks Greg

gregski
26-11-2009, 04:11 PM
I found one one a web but it's the same as the 900 I had :/ and there is no fuel pump connections on the drawing also all the colors codes are different. I think I pass on this stage, spoke to ducati proteam they will pick up the bike on Tuesday.

Thanks for your help guys.

Greg

gregski
03-12-2009, 11:19 AM
As always Alex and Mat got it sorted for me, it was faulty ECU :/
I supposed to get the bike back today just after 7am, van turn up on time but it did not come of it even.
My MOT is expired which I notice only last night but was to late to call proteam to cancel delivery and have MOT done.
so bike has gone back to the garage and it will be back on Tuesday I hope