Brake/Clutch Fluid

[davkyt]

Hi
I cant see any air bubble in the brake or clutch reservoir's.
So I'm wanting to take the tops off and top them up, do I use the same fluid for both?
Also, the manual says to change the entire systems fluid if you change the brand/type.
But only having the bike 4weeks I dont know whats in there......Will I really need to change the whole lot or should it be ok with a differant one in there too?
Cheers
Dave

[Space Cadet]

It would be a good time to change the whole fluid, fluids can in theory be mixed but truthfully for piece of mind why not do the job properly and stick all new stuff in there. Once done it’s another thing to tick off the to-do list isn’t it. Brake and clutch fluid is the same and its best to put DOT.5 in when upgrading.

[davkyt]

......Also......will the washers (im guessing there are some in there) need replacing if I take the top off?

I'd hate to not be able to get the tops back on and not be able to go a ride this w/e.....

[Space Cadet]

If they are the rectangular box shaped reservoirs that are built into the leaver housing then there are no washers (some bigger models have separate plastic cylinder looking reservoirs). There should be two very small Allen key bolts to undo and then the cap comes straight off and there is a funny rubber re-usable seal type thing underneath. Make sure you only fill up to the top of the little clear window on the front as the rubber seal thing will take up the rest of the space in the reservoir.

[johnsy]

If you're going to change the brake fluid, a little tip, 2 people, 1 bike pump, cut end of the pump hose, unscrew the end of the pump and fill with oil, connect to bleed nipple, screw pump together and push the oil from the bottom to the top, have someone with some rags to dip in the reservoir to remove the excess oil, to do both sides, 5 minutes and no air :thumbsup:

[Space Cadet]

There are fairly inexpensive bleeding pumps specifically for the job, pumping the brake leaver doesn’t get all the air out so it’s best to use a bleeding pump to suck the air out of the bleed nipples.

Once you’ve finished then leave the bike with a rubber band around the leaver and handlebar holding the brake leaver on full for a night (or longer), will help get rid of the last of the bubbles.

[davkyt]

Thanks for that guys......Will the pump come with instructions?
Im a complete mecanical newb.
The other thing i'm worrying about is the timing belts....but i'll go to the garage for that lol

[bigfiretruck]

how do you drain the fluid?

[davkyt]

johnsy - re a pump
am i understanding this right that if you have a pump you fill from the bottom and not the top? thus pushing the air out?
if so...this sounds easier than bleeding them....no?

[slob]

...its best to put DOT.5 in when upgrading.

DOT 3 & 4 can be mixed with each other but NOT with DOT 5 !

DOT 5.1 should be ok mixed with 3 or 4

DOT 3/4/5.1 are polyethylene glycol based.
DOT 5 is silicone based.


Ducati recommend DOT 4 but 5.1 won't hurt, it just has a higher boiling point.

[Space Cadet]

They are really easy to use (obviously read the instructions first), the pump will come with a tube which you fit over the bleed nipple, pump the pump a few times to build up a vacuum and then loosen the nipple slightly, do this a few times (making sure the fluid is always topped up in the reservoir.

You will need to a combination of this and also the traditional pumping the brake/clutch leaver: hold the leaver in and loosen the nipple keeping the leaver in and then tighten the nipple and let the leaver out, pump the leaver and hold it in and then loosen and tighten the nipple and then let the leaver out

[davkyt]

They are really easy to use (obviously read the instructions first), the pump will come with a tube which you fit over the bleed nipple, pump the pump a few times to build up a vacuum and then loosen the nipple slightly, do this a few times (making sure the fluid is always topped up in the reservoir.

You will need to a combination of this and also the traditional pumping the brake/clutch leaver: hold the leaver in and loosen the nipple keeping the leaver in and then tighten the nipple and let the leaver out, pump the leaver and hold it in and then loosen and tighten the nipple and then let the leaver out

I'll be the judge of how easy it is lol....

[davkyt]

how do you drain the fluid?

yay ! someone who knows about as much as me lol

[Pomp1]

I suggest you change all the oil (brakes+clutch)you'll be surprised how much difference it can make. Also, if you take any of the banjos out never reuse the copper washers. I use one of those eazybleed systems and a 50ml syringe to pump some oil in.Is a fairly easy task, but lenghty at times. be carefull thought as the brake fluid is highly corrosive, wipe immediately if gets in contact with painted surfaces. I normally throw an old rug over the tank for good measure

[davkyt]

DOT 3 & 4 can be mixed with each other but NOT with DOT 5 !

DOT 5.1 should be ok mixed with 3 or 4

DOT 3/4/5.1 are polyethylene glycol based.
DOT 5 is silicone based.


Ducati recommend DOT 4 but 5.1 won't hurt, it just has a higher boiling point.

thinking about it then.....I have to change the whole lot as I dont know if its got DOT 3,4,5 or 5.1 in..........

[davkyt]

I suggest you change all the oil (brakes+clutch)you'll be surprised how much difference it can make. Also, if you take any of the banjos out never reuse the copper washers. I use one of those eazybleed systems and a 50ml syringe to pump some oil in.Is a fairly easy task, but lenghty at times. be carefull thought as the brake fluid is highly corrosive, wipe immediately if gets in contact with painted surfaces. I normally throw an old rug over the tank for good measure

banjo? is this a washer in the rectangle header ?

[Pomp1]

you can drain the fluid by attaching a large syringe (you can get them off ebay or a local chemist, don't go to Boots, 50 ml should do) to a bit of pipe and to the nipple, unscrewed about a turn and a half, unscrew the reservoir top and suck the liquid out. Never pump in with the syringe(unless new fluid, of course), never re-use old fluid.

[Pomp1]

banjo is the end of the pipe. this (http://www.venhill.co.uk/Brake_lines_and_clutch_line_fittings/POWERHOSE_PLUS/POWERHOSE_PLUS_BANJOS) is a banjo. Rectangular reservoirs won't have a washer on them.

[davkyt]

you can drain the fluid by attaching a large syringe (you can get them off ebay or a local chemist, don't go to Boots, 50 ml should do) to a bit of pipe and to the nipple, unscrewed about a turn and a half, unscrew the reservoir top and suck the liquid out. Never pump in with the syringe(unless new fluid, of course), never re-use old fluid.

so pump new oil back in through the nipple...leaving the header cap off?
then im guessing you have to put the cap back on the create a vacum before you can take the pipe off the nipple so that the fluid doesnt come back out?

[davkyt]

banjo is the end of the pipe. this (http://www.venhill.co.uk/Brake_lines_and_clutch_line_fittings/POWERHOSE_PLUS/POWERHOSE_PLUS_BANJOS) is a banjo. Rectangular reservoirs won't have a washer on them.

hmmm...looks very unfamiliar .......I'll have a nose around when I get home

[Pomp1]

so pump new oil back in through the nipple...leaving the header cap off?
then im guessing you have to put the cap back on the create a vacum before you can take the pipe off the nipple so that the fluid doesnt come back out?

i prefer to fill the reservoir and suck the oil from the nipple as is a lot safer(never tried to pump it in, althought some people seem to prefer it that way), I normally fill the reservoir, drain, top up, drain, top up and then finish off with the easybleed, being very careful in keeping the reservoir level good. One word of advice: take your time( isn't overly complicated but if you've never done it may turn into a bit of a nightmare, I recently got stuck myself and people helped me a lot, take a look here (http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=31491)) and be careful when you fill the reservoir, once all is bleed and ready to shut, never fill it to the max level, otherways when you replace the membrane and the cap it will overflow. Re banjo, I'm sure you'll count at least 6 of them..

[davkyt]

thanks for the advice.......
I will be back asking for more help when i cock it all up lol.
I'll check the level when I'm home....fingers crossed it will be full and not empty so I wont have to do anything.........

[slob]

thinking about it then.....I have to change the whole lot as I dont know if its got DOT 3,4,5 or 5.1 in..........

You should!
They can be mixed (it almost certainly won't have DOT5 in it) but the fluid should be changed every 2 years regardless, since it absorbs moisture from the atmosphere over time, as I expalined in your previous post.

[bigfiretruck]

davkyt i was going to ask the same question xD :D but no need now :P i will bleed mine too this week at some point :D wooo

thanks

[davkyt]

just had the top off and they are full not empty......
The last servise was done in oct 2006.......so i still need to change it ?

[johnsy]

johnsy - re a pump
am i understanding this right that if you have a pump you fill from the bottom and not the top? thus pushing the air out?
if so...this sounds easier than bleeding them....no?

Yes, from the caliper to the reservoir, the top of a bicyle pump will unscrew, fill about 3/4 full then pump, the problem with bleeding is that the oil is very runny, therefore the air raises very quickly, it's impossible to pump the brake lever quick enough.

[slob]

Lastly, do not get brake fluid on your paintwork!
Cover your tank and mudguard with some old cloths.
It is a very effective paintstripper, if you do spill it on paintwork wash, not wipe, it off straight away.

[Rockhopper]

You can safely mix DOT 3, 4 and 5.1 but you can't mix DOT 5 with anything other than more DOT5.
Just bleed as normal and keep bleeding and topping up the reservoir till clean fluid goes int the jar. Job done!