The tart-up, part two - The re-build.

[BluprintZ]

Having got the frame, suspension hoop and footrest hangers back from the powdercoaters last week and the steering head bearings having arrived on Tuesday this week, i'm pretty much ready to start putting the bike back together.
Tomorrow, i'll fit the new bearings into the frame, then the top`n bottom yokes need a touch of wet`n dry and a seeing to from Mr Solvol Autosol, then a touch of laquer to keep them protected from the weather.
Once that lots sorted, then the forks, swingarm, rear suspension and wheels can be added, then we shall have a rolling chassis.
I've also just realised today, that the handlebar risers i bought a while back, are too big, the bolts don't line up with the top yoke, so i'll need to sort that out as well...doh!
The pinch-bolts that held the screen mountings to the top yokes are also too long, i'm not replacing it on the bike, so the bolts and spacers are surplus, just shortening the bolts isn't the answer, the shank is longer so as to accomodate the spacer, it's about 5mm longer than the bottom yoke bolts, so i need to source some new ones.
I'll post pics when i have something worth posting.

G. :thumbsup:

[BluprintZ]

Since the previous post, i decided not to attack the yokes and the rear suspension linkage arm with wet`n dry and solvol.
Instead, i entrusted the job to a local fella who has a wheel building service and also an excellent reputation for doing good things with his polishing machine.
Anyway, he polished the bottom yoke and the link arm but didn't want to do anything with the top yoke, due to the "odd coating" on it !
So, i'll prepare the top yoke as best i can, then spray it silver-grey with a liberal coating of lacquer.

I think the he did a decent job of the polishing:
http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t336/BluprintZmusic/Cleaning%20pics/link_arm.jpg

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t336/BluprintZmusic/Cleaning%20pics/top-bottom-yokes.jpg

http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t336/BluprintZmusic/Cleaning%20pics/bottom_yoke.jpg

Oh yea, he also removed the casting seams on both items.

[BluprintZ]

I've pretty much got everything i need now for the re-build to begin in earnest.
Yesterday was spent at the workshop, refitting the front-end and rear suspension/swingarm.

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Once that was done, i then started to clean the engine.
The paint used on the Ducati engine cases is renowned for being fairly crappy, so once the crud was removed using petrol, i set to with a soft wire brush to get the flaky paint off.
It will then be a case of masking up parts of the engine and spraying the cases in smoothrite heatproof silver paint.
The rocker covers will also need painting, although they will be done matte black.
The engine can then be re-fitted to the frame, followed by the wiring harness and electrical components.

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[Pomp1]

come on, sun is out..chop chop:biggrin: btw I like the stand..

[BluprintZ]

come on, sun is out..chop chop:biggrin: btw I like the stand..

I know, loads of bikes out on the road the other day, typical innit?
The "stand" is one of the cheapest on the market, freely available from most junkshops:chuckle:.

Whaddya like?

G.:p.

[Pomp1]

Tell you what, could do with one for the Husky SMR..

[gremlin]

its coming along nicely,
one little suggestion, its far easier to put back together by putting the engine on a platform, and then dropping the frame (without forks) onto the engine and then fitting the swing arm. theres less chance of the frame getting scratched . plus you have shims and spacers to slide in which is awkward at the best of times.

[BluprintZ]

its coming along nicely,
one little suggestion, its far easier to put back together by putting the engine on a platform, and then dropping the frame (without forks) onto the engine and then fitting the swing arm. theres less chance of the frame getting scratched . plus you have shims and spacers to slide in which is awkward at the best of times.

Cheers Sarah.
The problem is, everything else was pretty much ready, except the engine, as you can see from the pics.
I'm panicking a wee bit with the weekender coming up...fast!!
Once the engine is painted and the stainless bolts etc are fitted, it can then be put back into the frame.
I get what you are saying though, the engine will be lifted into place with a hydraulic jack, along with a couple of helping hands, so extreme care will be taken.
Once it's up and running, then it has to go to the Dyno man, then i'll need a couple of days shakedown riding, last thing i want is something going wrong on the way to the Mill.
So all this has to be done within the next three weeks...eek!!

G.:thumbsup:.

[BluprintZ]

I'm at the stage where i need to order the pod filters.
I did a search on the forum for threads concerning pod filters and found a few, although i'm still not 100% sure what size i need to order, bit confused!
From what i found on the search, these look like what i want: http://www.knfilters.com/search/product.aspx?Prod=RU-1402

It states the measurement for the inside diameter as:
Flange Inside Diameter: 2.062 in (52 mm).

The carb flange on my bike is: 62mm, so that is what is causing the confusion.
Any advice please?

Cheers,
G.

[Yorkie]

I fitted these filters direct to the carbs, and they are very nice!

http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/universal%20filters/universal2.html

They have a coil that goes up the inside to prevent any collapse.

See here: http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/universal.html

Look forward to seeing the finished product at the Mill.

Yorkie.

[BluprintZ]

Cheers Yorkie.
The bit i'm confused about, is what size flange diameter am i looking for?
As i mentioned in my previous post, my carb flange is 62mm, although the search seemed to point towards 52mm for the K&N's.
Hope it's gonna be ready for t`mill lad!

G. : )

[Yorkie]

I will take one of mine off tomorrow, after work, and measure the dimentions for you if you would like!

Yorkie.

[Pomp1]

I fitted these filters direct to the carbs, and they are very nice!

http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/universal%20filters/universal2.html

They have a coil that goes up the inside to prevent any collapse.

See here: http://www.unifilter.com/online%20catalog/universal.html

Look forward to seeing the finished product at the Mill.

Yorkie.

George sorry to hijack the thread. Yorkie where did you get them? and I suppose you had to get something like a stage 2 jets or something?

[Yorkie]

My local fettler got them for me, but you can order them direct from the company.

Mine was already jetted, over stage 2, but i could have just removed the airbox and fitted them without any adjustment but i think it would run lean!

Yorkie.

[Pomp1]

^^^^^^^thanks

[BluprintZ]

I will take one of mine off tomorrow, after work, and measure the dimentions for you if you would like!
Yorkie.

Cheers Yorkie, if it's not too much hassle mate.

George. :thumbsup:.

[Yorkie]

I will PM you tomorrow!

Yorkie

[BluprintZ]

Well, i finally ordered the pod filters today (cheers for the info Yorkie).
So now i need to finish off cleaning the engine, ready for the smoothrite silver treatment.
Meanwhile, i knew that the petrol tank needed a rub over with some wet`n dry, usual place where the front of the seat meets the rear of the tank.
Unfortunately, on inspecting the beggar underneath, i found quite a bit of corrosion along the seam and a fair bit of rust spotting by the left-hand side of the inner skin, see pic:
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As usual, what started off as a a bit of a job, turns into a full scale wet`n dry, primer and top-coat session.
It seems like the more you do, the more needs doing, anyone else come across this phenomenon ?
Anyway, all being well, i should have the tank sorted over the weekend, then i can get cracking on, finishing the crankcase painting next Monday.
I'm still fannying about, deciding on whether to shell out a couple of hundred quid or so, for the open clutch cover (with windows) and a red anodised pressure plate!!
Funds are getting low, the bleedin' Ex-Box has added nearly a grand to the re-build cost, although i'm sure it will be worth it in the end, gulp!

G.: )

[Yorkie]

I managed to get a 1/3 (Only 1/3 of it left) cut original clutch cover for mine, i got it powdercoated black and i then got an original pressure plate powdercoated red, looks very nice.

I also have a half carbon clutch cover, repaired (awaiting painting), an original full cover for trackdays, and a carbon full cover that requires some repair and painting for a spare. Save some money for now and just get some stuff powdercoated!

Everyone needs spares!

Yorkie.

[BluprintZ]

I suppose you're right mate, i have a full carbon cover on at the mo`but the lacquer is starting to lift, so it looks a bit scruffy, paint/powdercoat is an option, although it seems a shame not to spend an extra couple of hundred to finish it off, considering what's already been spent.

G.

[Pomp1]

the carbon can be renewed quite easily, sand it with 800 W&D(without going to deep, if you get to the cloth you're f**ked) and laquer it over (some cook it in the oven at like Mark 1/2 for 1 hour), job done, really is that easy. I run an open clutch with MLP plate and yes, it looks nice but is a pain to keep clean and I've almost caught me leg the other day..

[gremlin]

dont forget, with your pod filters you will need (probably) , re-profiled needles (unless you already have dynojet kit ), air corrector jets (these dont come with dynojet kits ), some sort of velocity stack with a bell mouth to keep the inlet tract the correct length and a fair bit of wedge to spend on dyno time to get it all working properly, even then expect less power than with a standard / modified air box.
do a forum search there has been a recent thread on this topic,

Mr G

[BluprintZ]

Cheers for the advice guys, all taken on board as food for thought.
The cover i'm thinking of getting, is the stainless billet type with the perspex windows, seeing as the bike spends most of it's time outside, no garage y`see.
I'm aware of the re-jetting situation, went through all that in the 80's with the GS's and Zed's.
Used to spend quite a bit of time and quite a few pennies at Pip Highams in Manchester, big-bore kits, lectron carbs, etc for the drag bikes i used to race.
The Dyno man is in the middle of Anglesey, he's been prepping race bikes for over 20 years, including the Norton rotary that my mate raced from `92 - 2004, so i expect he will set it up as best he can, he reckons the HP certainly won't be any less than it is now, we shall have to see.
CK has offered to give it a thrashing at the weekender, so it will be interesting to see how she rates it.

G. : )

[Yorkie]

Mine pulls over 80hp with the pod filters and no airbox and the set up i have, so im happy with that at the moment!! (Not a lot for modern bikes but she's 10 now!)

Can you get reprofiled/performance cams for the 900?? I suppose the next move is to get everything inside polished and ported!!

Yorkie

[gremlin]

porting. bigger valves hi comp pistons etc no problem. i can find out about cams , i know a couple people who make them to order........ but it on depends how big your budget is

[Yorkie]

Gremlin,

PM me with costs, i can make the family eat welfare food for a few months! (Beans and bread)

Yorkie.

[BluprintZ]

Spent most of today at the workshop, at last!
As can be seen, the engine has been sprayed, although a few bits of overspray have to be cleaned off, you know how it is...innit?
So, the engine is back in the frame, carbs on, headlight bracket and speedo back on, plus front and rear brake calipers re-fitted.
I'm going to put the standard airbox back on, although without the gubbins.
I'm expecting the pod filters i ordered any day now, so rather than rush things before the weekender, the airbox and battery tray, plus the assorted electrical thingies attached to it, shall be put back as was but without the airfilter itself, the pods will be fitted within the airbox, whether it stays like that after the weekender, we shall have to see how it goes.
All being well, it should be going to the Dyno man next Monday, that will then give me time to give the bike a couple of days shakedown before da Mill expedition.
I'll likely be riding down with LouScannon (jim), we have yet to decide where to meet up, although it will probably be around the Holywell area but well sort that out soon.
So, the pics from today:
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[LouSCannon]

Looking good!!! Feeling calmer now you can see it coming together? :)

Might have to ride with some distance between us, mine is going to look awful next to that!

[BluprintZ]

Looking good!!! Feeling calmer now you can see it coming together? :)
Might have to ride with some distance between us, mine is going to look awful next to that!

A bit calmer Jim, although there's still loads to do yet, i haven't even thought about the rear light/numberplate assembly, need to source some stainless to make the bracket up.
The pod filters arrived this morning, so that's another thing out of the way.
Tried to fit the risers i bought yesterday, the extra long bolts that came with them aren't long enough...correction, the threads aren't long enough, they are running out before the clamps tighten up on the bars, so i had to nip them into a local engineering shop yesterday on me way home from the workshop to have an extra half inch of thread added, i'll pick them up later on this afternoon, then the bars and levers/twistgrip can be fitted.

I doubt if mine will look as clean as it does in the piccies mate, by the time we're on the road it will have picked some sh1te up and if it rains (eek!)...well, lets hope not eh? lol.

Laterz,
G.:cool:.

[BluprintZ]

The re-build is coming along, bit by bit.
Did quite a bit yesterday, although it was mostly bits and pieces, bar switches, footrest hangers and footrests, i lost one of the ball bearings from the rear footrests, don't you just hate it when little twatty things like that happen?
Going up to Woods of Abergele later on today, need new exhaust collets and a gasket for the vertical cam cover, although i'm sure i'll find somethings else to buy while i'm there.

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[Pomp1]

good job there! losing one of the bearings was my excuse to buy the rearset..

[BluprintZ]

At last, the bike is finished and ready for it's first outing...to the Mill.
See you all tomorrow and cheers to everyone who helped me out over the last few months.
http://i513.photobucket.com/albums/t336/BluprintZmusic/Bike%20rebuild/30%20April/100_0640.jpg

[Panther]

good work :thumbsup:

[BluprintZ]

Cheers Panther. :)

G.:cool:.

[Pomp1]

So, well done,she looks really nice G.!See you tonight at the Mill!

[Mand]

oooo a contender! Nice work indeed and I really hope you bring your luggage in that shopping basket :chuckle:

See you later!

[LouSCannon]

Yeah, not sure I want to ride down with him now, kinda puts mine to shame! :(

[J_Dub]

Looks good George! Like your ex box.

[Yorkie]

Nice one mate, look forward to seeing it at the Mill!

Yorkie.

[BluprintZ]

I picked the bike up from the Dyno place yesterday and for those of you who are interested, the data is below.
The K&N pod filters have been removed and the standard airbox has been fitted with hi-flow foam and the airbox lid has had two extra holes added.
It's certainly running much smoother than it was before the stripdown, although it could well have been that the carbs were a touch out of synch anyway.
The Ex-Box sound awesome, with a nice pop on the overun, a couple of dogs near my place have already shat themselves, shouldn't chase mo`bikes then should they? : )
Haven't had a chance to give it a good hammering yet, due to damp roads with an airy smell of diesel but the ride home (27 miles) from the Dyno, was an enjoyable one, even if it was raining.
I nipped down to Tesco's this afternoon to fill the tank up, the roads are still a bit damp but it got up to 90mph very quickly on one stretch, so yes, i think i'm gonna be happy with it when the old currant bun decides to show it's face.

Engine Condition (leak test).
Both front and rear cylinders: 3% Shows no leaks + very good seal.

First run with K&N filters show very bad air/fuel ratio's.
Rich start and could not run above 85mph due to over-lean mixture.
Strip carbs, clean and rejet to suit hi-flow foam air cleaner, with two extra holes in airbox.

Carb settings.
Main: 40-5NS PPH.
Sec main: 70.
Needle: 5C423.
Spring: 95X10X54.8.
Pilot: 37.5.
Emul: 3.5.

Min Dyno loading (all readings with fuel tank covering airbox).
Pilot at rest: 13.2/1 air/fuel ratio.
30mph 12.8/1
50mph 12.7/1
70mph 13.0/1
77mph 13.1/1
90mph 13.3/1
110mph 13.3/1
132mph 12.7/1
Hard acceleration 12.8/1 first 13.0. all the way to 100mph, then going to 12.7/1.

Exhaust: (Quat-D Ex-box).
Both exit holes have same air/fuel ratio when exhaust probe is checking mixture (in exhaust box outlets).

Coils tested

Front: Rear:
4.7_n_Pri. 4.7_n_.
15.78k Sec. 15.45k.
4.8k Caps. 4.6k

G : )

[Albie]

What was the HP and torque. Any improvement ??

[BluprintZ]

I don't have that info at the mo` Albie, will probably see him over the weekend so i'll try and remember to ask him for it.
I do remember him saying a while back, when i first booked the bike in, that the BHP will deffo be improved upon.

G : )