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View Full Version : cutting out on the dual carriageway


harry_hyde
30-09-2008, 06:34 AM
Got my bike on sunday, rode it 80 miles home then another 20 with no problems. Rode it 40 miles to work on the monday, bit of rain but no problems. On the way home in the dry after about 10 miles the whole bike cut out. Dash went blank, bike stopped.

After that, the dash came back on with the speedo and rev counter moving erratically and the warning lights flashing randomly.

This stopped and I managed to turn the key (which was difficult) and get it started.

It ran fine barring a really lumpy idle (that I didn't trust to keep the bike running so I had to blip the throttle) but the rev counter was playing up still. It was running about 3 k rpm high.

When I got home and turned off, the rev counter dropped to 3k or so then dropped to 0. I started it again, the clocks swept as they should and the bike started fine and everything looked ok. I've not been out on it since.

Its an 03 620 Sie and when I bought it the seller said it had a flickering oil light at about 70 on the road which may be a loose connection as he'd had the switch replaced and the pressure checked. As you ride along at about 70, if you roll on the revs the light flickers. It doesn't do it at the same revs in any of the other gears though so unless its a problem linked to the gearbox I guess its just a loose connection.

Anyway, has anyone suffered this before themselves? I'll go through the connections to make sure everything looks ok.

Any thoughts on the oil light? Could it be more serious than I think?

Cheers in advance.

Jody.

slob
30-09-2008, 07:39 AM
Oil pressure sensor is quite a common fault (Craigie went through about 3 in as many weeks... possibly a duff batch) I think there's a much cheaper alternative off a small car, I'll see if I can find the info.
However the sytoms you're describing are a bit odd.
Also throttle sticking in the wet is quite common on 620ie, an occaisonal squirt of WD40 or similar on the brass rod that goes through the throttle bodies usually seems to sort it.
As for the clocks that doesn't sound so good, possibly water ingress. I took mine apart and sealed all the gaskets with silicone grease, which didn't seem to make much difference in the long run.
The fact you had trouble turning the key suggests a physical problem with the ignition switch, I WD40 mine regularly, although others will tell you graphite powder is a better option, not had any problems with that on 2 monsters in over 5 five years. WD40 all your electical connectors an check your front HT lead and plug, look for signs of scorching on the plug. These are exposed to all the crap coming off the front wheel and I replaced the front one on my 620 which solved running rough in the wet.

bod
01-10-2008, 06:04 PM
Vauxhall Agila was the car, old shape not the new one thats just come out.

kenloen
01-10-2008, 09:20 PM
cause everything is eratic I might be tempted to think the main ECU wiring. Start by unpluging all the electric connections and clean using WD. the lumpy idle could just be lack of use or your confidence and not wanting to cut out and the keylock deffo sounds like it needs a clean, for winter riding I swear by ACF50, been mentioned in other threads
- liberally everywhere cept brakes, its like WD40 with a gelling agent ;-)

Bodybag
02-10-2008, 12:29 AM
Have you checked the battery? If its not holding a strong charge you'll get all sorts of erratic behaviour from the electrics. My 749S always showed 14.4V on the dash and never dropped below about 11.5V when firing up. Much below this and you get problems.