Cleaning and protecting connections?

[retskcid]

I seem to have tracked down my S4's non starting to bad electrical connections and wondered -

1. what is the best way to clean the male/female block connectors (how do you get to the metal parts inside the plastic blocks?) and

2. the best way to prevent future corrosion/problems - wd40?

Cheers

Rich

[adam15]

Try and find some electrical contact cleaner, I used some on my monster when i had problems with the indicator contacts after spraying them with some of this they worked fine.

[barbican]

+1 for contact cleaner first and also ACF50 afterwards to protect from further corrosion

[Capo]

Spray with contact cleaner, make the conection a couple of times, spray again then apply a SMALL amount of silicon grease.

[retskcid]

Cheers, I didn't know of contact cleaner, I'll try and get some - I was thinking of using silicon grease!

[Capo]

You have to clean them first to remove the oxide and and corrosion, a cfew cycles of connections/ disconnections will help this process. The silicon grease fills all the gaps and prevents the ingress of moisture.

[JerryXt]

+1 for acf-50 (Rs owners talk sense :))


Spray the bike with it every time you wash it with serious cleaners - fantastic stuff. Smokes like a b*gger tho.

[barbican]

+1 for acf-50 (Rs owners talk sense :))


Spray the bike with it every time you wash it with serious cleaners - fantastic stuff. Smokes like a b*gger tho.

Yes - used it on the cars and bikes for the electrics ever since our Land Rover stopped when water got in to one of the multiplug thingys, and the fuse box in the old jag got a bit iffy. Never had a problem afterwards.

[retskcid]

I'll look out for it, whats the difference between that and WD40?

I was thinking of using proper silicon sealant on the connectors where the wires enter so that water cannot find its way into the plugs via the cables.

[JerryXt]

the US Navy didn't have wd-40 developed to protect engine parts from sea water. Sorry, to be clear, jet engine parts on a carrier.

:D


Seriously, this stuff forms a bond with metal at the molecular level and resists everything except serious solvents. You have to see it in action - I put it on my titanium bike frame now and again and it just slips off itself if you've got some on there already. Brushed ti feels like very fine sandpaper, so it's really odd to see a wave of pink lube sliding over the metal.

[barbican]

WD40 does much the same job, but ACF50 is in my experience more effective for its primary purpose which is to protect against corrosion.
Have a look at this link

http://www.f2motorcycles.ltd.uk/service.html

Scroll down to the ACF50 bit - not scientific but in line with my experience.

their own blurb says:

ACF-50 is a state-of-the-art anti-corrosion/lubricating compound that has been specially designed for aviation and aerospace use. It is a clean, clear, non-toxic, ultra-thin fluid compound which leaves a non-greasy atmospheric barrier to protect metal surfaces. With a dielectric rating of nearly 40KV, ACF-50 will kill corrosion cells on contact and completely remove the moisture from the metal surface. It actively penetrates into seams, lap joints and beneath rivet heads, expelling moisture and even saltwater. In addition, it can be used on all types of plastics, paints and seals without fear of damage.

[retskcid]

Great, I see now - M and P stock it so ordered some today.

Thanks for all input.

[jerry]

offshore we use electrical contact cleaner and either hydraulic oil or electrical grease both are non contact .

[bod]

Super 10 servisol (but it from radio shack/tandy) it wot the profesionals use.....well I do any way as a switch cleaner don't use WD40 as it leaves an oily residue.