Twin dials

[geeman]

I have a M750 with the single dial instrument panel (no rev counter) and I've just acquired an instrument panel with the twin dials (rev counter). The single dial panel has a slightly different set up on the electrical connection which means when the twin dials are fitted the rev counter doesn't work and some of the instrument lights aren't working correctly. Not sure whether I can use the instrument light’s wiring out the single dial panel and add a wire for the rev counter (not sure where this would need to end up) or whether I need to replace some of the wiring completely?:dizzy: :dizzy:

[banditloon]

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y280/banditloon/Monster%20OC/DSC00165.jpg

Is it the same as this one?

[geeman]

This is the type

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii218/geeman1976/Picture111.jpg

[banditloon]

Hmmmmm...

Mine does use the wiring for the old single dial dash, as the carbon fibre one was an empty shell. I'm sure someone can be more helpful than me as I'm stumped now :banghead:

[Albie]

Thats the post 2000 clocks. I dont know but would have thought it feasible to work. You need an expert to come along soon.

[Scotty]

look suspiciously like 2001 monster S4 clocks

you can get the wiring diagram of the Ducati website in the back of the 'owners manual'

you can then start banging you head on the wall

the S4 rev counter takes a feed from the ECU

is it a 750 carbed or injected ?

[bod]

Got to be clocks from a watercooled bike note the rev counter highest reading and the warning light for temperature.

[Scotty]

all the way to 11 for that little bit extra ;)

[banditloon]

all the way to 11 for that little bit extra ;)

But mine go to 12.....

[Scotty]

but does the needle ever get there ?

(doesn't on S4)

[bod]

Gotta be good clocks them......nearly 10,000 miles and they still work,with no signs of water in them too!

[banditloon]

but does the needle ever get there ?

(doesn't on S4)

Doesn't usually get over 6 :chuckle: Electrical gremlins living in the wiring somewhere :chuckle:

[geeman]

Its a carbed 750, think they are off a 2001 s4. Hmmmm might have to take them into work and see if our electronics wizard can work his magic!

[JerryXt]

it looks like they're for use with a coded key - hence the small key logo at the right. I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong, but these will only work with the original ecu, which is unlikely to work with your bike if it's a different moel.

[Scotty]

it looks like they're for use with a coded key - hence the small key logo at the right. I'm sure someone will correct me if i'm wrong, but these will only work with the original ecu, which is unlikely to work with your bike if it's a different moel.

your wrong, that came in in 2002

its just a flashy light - but it is to do with the immobiliser system

[Scotty]

reet, the tacho bit has 3 connections +12 volts earth and a signal which normally goes to the ECU you could try connecting the signal wire to one or other of the low tension sides of one of the coils

however I haven't a clue as to whether this will work or blow the tacho unit to pieces

best ask your sparky mate

swapping the idiot lights around is easy

oooooor maybe the +12 goes to one of the low tension coil terminals and the signal goes to the other low tension coil terminal

[Scotty]

wiring diagram at end of owners manual

http://www.ducati.com/en/bikes/service/manuals/2001/pdf/MY01_S4_eng.zip

[desmo]

One of the wires will be the speed sensor wire, which will either connect to a speed sensor or the ecu.
To pick up the correct wire you will need either a wiring diagram or you will have to find it using a mutimeter.
The measurement is usually read in hertz.

[bod]

One of the wires will be the speed sensor wire, which will either connect to a speed sensor or the ecu.
To pick up the correct wire you will need either a wiring diagram or you will have to find it using a mutimeter.
The measurement is usually read in hertz.

Wouldnt the IC in the instrument be looking for a specific frequency'herz" at a certain voltage?

Wouldn't signal inputs from an ECU be different to that of the low tension side of a coil?

[geeman]

:confused: Checked out the wiring diagram. The little LED just goes through the immobiliser so can forget that. Theres a + - wire then one wire which goes to a terminal and says "body 9 (tachout)" not sure what this is?

[geeman]

b*****ks, nothing to do with my instrument panel but my mob phone broke today and just realised that was my only alarm clock!! So who's up for givin me a wake up call at 05:50

[Scotty]

ive been looking at a manual (for a completely different set of clocks) and that is what my suggestion is based on, hold on I'll copy and paste it ...

[Scotty]

TACHO IGNITION CONNECTION

Please use a tacho output of the management, ECU or ignition box if this available. Nearly all modern vehicles have tacho outputs, and this may be the only option on some ignition systems. They do vary in there operation however. Some do not like being loaded down to earth (EG Nissan Micra), in this case you need to connect the red wire to +12v batt, and the black wire to tacho output. If there is no tacho output available, you may be able to connect the inductive pickup output from the distributor, if the system has one.

If you do not have a tacho output, then please try the suggestions below.

The tacho ignition coil input (see schematic) is fully protected. It will easily take short CDI type pulses up to 500V (but not magneto pulses, see below) and is not damaged by reverse polarity. Try connecting black to chassis, and red to the ignition pulse side of the coil. If this does not work well, or operation is slightly erratic, please experiment with different connections. IE reverse the polarity of the connections to the coil, and/or try one connection to chassis, and the other to the coil feed. You cannot damage the tachometer by doing this. But do not make any kind of connection to the HT leads or spark plugs, this voltage is highly destructive and will likely stop the engine firing properly.

PLEASE NOTE:- Do not connect the ‘Tacho+ (Standard)’ input to a magneto driven coil (EG Motoplat ignition as used on KTM engines). This will overload and damage the tacho input. Please ask SPA for a magneto option loom.

[geeman]

Cheers dude,

I'll get my mate to wire it up for me with that info.

[geeman]

Thanks for the info Scotty, I now have a working rev counter! My friend has a similar set up on his monster and I copied that. The three wires from the Tacho connect to one of the rectifier (I think thats what it is) connections that sits just above the battery terminals.

[damon]

Thanks for the info Scotty, I now have a working rev counter! My friend has a similar set up on his monster and I copied that. The three wires from the Tacho connect to one of the rectifier (I think thats what it is) connections that sits just above the battery terminals.

good man. i shall be round in a mo to have a look and then perhaps a celebratory beer? :booze:

ps - where your avator and other bits of info gone to?

[geeman]

better bring some then! Think I have 1 fosters left