Coring Standard Cans

[Black Ferret]

I want to core the stock cans on my s4r (desmoquattro). Does anybody know how to go about doing this? Or know of anyone that does them for you?

Dug the originals out of their corner in the garage this morning. I'd forgotten how much they weighed. Does coring make them significantly lighter?

thanks,
Steve

[damon]

here you go.

http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/coringsr.php

yes they do become alot lighter, i put 2 inch perf pipe all the way down mine and they rumble :)

[Black Ferret]

Thanks damon.

Looking at that article, I think I'm gonna need a bigger swear box in the garage.

[damon]

oh and then some :)

nah its not that bad really, you'll get through some discs but theyre not that much money, also when you pull the outside sleave off make a note of where the fixing screw holes are and cut round them so that they stay put and just chop most of the other metal away, sounds stupid but its easy to forget you need them when you get chopping:)

rivet gun, dremmel, pliers, drill, perf pipe and wadding......oh and tea....lots of tea! :)

if things got that bad my mates dad did mine and somebody else on here and he's a dab hand bless him, he'd do them for ya.

[Black Ferret]

rivet gun, dremmel, pliers, drill, perf pipe and wadding......oh and tea....lots of tea! :)

Always tea.


if things got that bad my mates dad did mine and somebody else on here and he's a dab hand bless him, he'd do them for ya.

Thanks for the offer, nice to know there's a bit of a safety net. :on:

It'll be a very strong mug of tea I'll be taking out to the garage next weekend

[bigredduke]

I want to core the stock cans on my s4r (desmoquattro). Does anybody know how to go about doing this? Or know of anyone that does them for you?

Dug the originals out of their corner in the garage this morning. I'd forgotten how much they weighed. Does coring make them significantly lighter?

thanks,
Steve

I did mine very recently. It does take a long time, the real 'secret' is to give yourself plenty of time & don't rush the job. A small angle grinder is very helpful, I got one from Aldi. Also, when you start with the dremel it creates quite a lot of dust, so I attached a vacuum cleaner hose to the other end & it keeps the dust down. The photos from Dave.G are invaluable. If I can help, pm me. Good luck!

[Black Ferret]

Thanks for the advice BRD. A mate of mine's a plumber, I think he's got a small grinder I could borrow. Got to be easier than a hack saw.

[mad_turnips]

what about standard 600 ( 98) cans

[Black Ferret]

Am I right in thinking that the only things keeping the whole exhaust together are the screws used to attach the silencer to the mounting bracket and some pot rivets for the end caps?

I can't see any rivets in this pic

http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/images/16.jpg

Has anyone got a picture of the rivets?

[Dave G]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/Cored%20cans/endcan.jpg

The three rivets equally spaced are enough to secure the endcap,which in turn holds the perforated pipe in place. The whole lot is supported by the original bolts and bolt holes.
Heres the drawing I made of how it all nests together, the rivets on the end are soft alloy ones which have been on my bike for two years with no problems.A little care when drilling the position holes is needed to ensure the match the inner lip of the steel endcap,I remember drilling the alloy sleeve first and placing the endcap in situ then using a felt marker to mark where to drill the steel .
Its not hard to do,just the initial cuts into the exit pipe are tricky as this is done almost by feel alone.I used over twenty cutter discs before finding the toughened ones and diamond cutter discs are even better, they are slightly dearer to buy but well worth it because they last so much longer.
Let me know if you need any more info, though theres now enough people here who have done this to give you a decent spread of hints and tips.

[Black Ferret]

Thanks Dave. All very clear now. I thought I'd missed something. :scratch:

I'll give it a shot when I get home at the weekend.

[Black Ferret]

Does anybody know where I get the necessary perferated pipe and wading?

Thanks,
steve

[Dave G]

I got mine from this lot:-
http://www.aa16.co.uk/a16exhaustparts.htm

( although you might have to go to a fishing shop for your wading needs;) )

[bigredduke]

Am I right in thinking that the only things keeping the whole exhaust together are the screws used to attach the silencer to the mounting bracket and some pot rivets for the end caps?

I can't see any rivets in this pic

http://www.ducati-upnorth.com/tech/images/16.jpg

Has anyone got a picture of the rivets?

I'll post some pictures showing 'my' rivets tomorrow (camera battery flat at the mo!). I bought a job lot of 4mm stainless steel rivets. PM me your address & I'll pop a few in the post for you.

[Black Ferret]

Thanks guys.

BRD you have pm

Steve

[bigredduke]

Here are the pictures of the end caps & rivets. I tried to position the rivets on the top can under the heat shield & the bottom ones on the wheel side so they are less noticeable from the r/h side.
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e171/bigredduke/P1010122.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e171/bigredduke/P1010121.jpg
http://i39.photobucket.com/albums/e171/bigredduke/P1010120.jpg

[Chris & Nean]

Will someone please sell me some S2R pipes at reasonable cost to experiment with.

[bigredduke]

Will someone please sell me some S2R pipes at reasonable cost to experiment with.

Can't help you I'm afraid, I am keeping my original cans intact for when I eventually sell my bike. S4R cans are identical to those fitted to the S2R so you may be able to find some of those either. In fact, the cans I cored were from an S2R originally.

[Black Ferret]

Perf pipe and wadding in the post. I shopuld be able to pick them up from the post office when I get home at the weekend.

I just need to butcher out the baffles from the top can. Should only take an hour or so.

I'm thinking that I should coat the pipes (black) before I do the final re-assembly. As the pipes are gonna be all black I'm thinking of using stanless rivet straps as a bit of highlighting.

[Dave G]

My cored cans are black now, I meant to get them properly coated but never got around to it and ended up doing them myself with VHT paint.

[bigredduke]

Perf pipe and wadding in the post. I shopuld be able to pick them up from the post office when I get home at the weekend.

I just need to butcher out the baffles from the top can. Should only take an hour or so.

I'm thinking that I should coat the pipes (black) before I do the final re-assembly. As the pipes are gonna be all black I'm thinking of using stanless rivet straps as a bit of highlighting.

I found the top can much more time-consuming but then I did retain a lot of the inner sleeve for the heat shield & mounting points which made access to the baffles trickier.

[Black Ferret]

My cored cans are black now, I meant to get them properly coated but never got around to it and ended up doing them myself with VHT paint.

Blaaaack... I bet they look good. I have a couple of tins of matt PJ1 sat in the garage. But with me working away all the time at the moment it'd probably be quicker to get 'em coated.


I found the top can much more time-consuming but then I did retain a lot of the inner sleeve for the heat shield & mounting points which made access to the baffles trickier.

Know what you mean. Each side of the, roughly, triangular pipe will be different lengths. Long side for heat shield, mid-length side for mounts and shortest side (yet to cut this down fully) will hopefully reveal the front baffle plate. Once the front baffle plate is exposed I will empty the swear box, fill my pockets with change (to re-fill the swear box at appropriate time(s)) and
tackle the baffles.

[Dave G]

Blaaaack... I bet they look good. I have a couple of tins of matt PJ1 sat in the garage. But with me working away all the time at the moment it'd probably be quicker to get 'em coated.


Any excuse:mand:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/jan2008001.jpg

[Black Ferret]

Nice bike. Is that one of those gel seats you've got on there?

[damon]

Any excuse:mand:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v138/salsajayne/jan2008001.jpg


Dave G,

would you say the ride height with the comfort seat is a little higher than standard?

its just that mine has come into stock today and the guy told me i wouldnt lose ride height and more likely gain some, not picking it up til next week though so id like a heads up......im quite tall you see so more is better:)

cheers

[Black Ferret]

I'm feeling quite chuffed with myself today, I finished chopping out the baffles from the top can, fun with angle grinders. Chopped cans shown in attached picture.

Awaiting delivery of perf pipe, wadding and rivet straps to progress.

I've just realised it's damn near a month since I started this; I've only had a few spare hours each weekend to get in the garage. Things should progress a little faster when I finish work in Swansea on Monday. I'll be working from home from Tuesday on :woot: which means I can spend more time in the garage. Still I think the really hard bit's been done now.

I just have nightmares now that I'm gonna put it all back together and be plagued by a rattling piece of loose perf pipe.

[bigredduke]

That looks like a very neat job you have done there! To measure the correct length of the perforated pipe I put the end cap in place & used one of those adjustable caliper jobbies to measure the depth of the cap. Make a slightly generous cut of the pipe, you can always file a bit off, you can't add it on if it's too short!

[Black Ferret]

That looks like a very neat job you have done there!

You haven't seen the shards of metal littering the garage floor. A definite no go area in flip flops. I'm no engineer really, I really had to butchered the baffles to get them out.

To measure the correct length of the perforated pipe I put the end cap in place & used one of those adjustable caliper jobbies to measure the depth of the cap. Make a slightly generous cut of the pipe, you can always file a bit off, you can't add it on if it's too short!

I'd planned to

1) Fit sleeve and end cap. Measure distance from the bottom of the end cap to the base plate at the inlet end of the can.

2) Remove end cap. Measure distance from the top lip of the sleeve to the base plate at the inlet end of the can.

djustable caliper jobbies? I might have to use a stick to measure 1 and 2.

3) With sleeve still fitted. Place perf pipe over the inlet pipe stub, mark the perf pipe at the top lip of the sleeve.

4) Adjust mark made in 3 with the difference between measurements 1 and 2

5) Add a bit more for luck and cut.

DaveG recommends cutting slots in the perf pipe to get it to slip over the end cap and inlet stub. I think it's the shortening caused by the pipe flaring that is key to the whole thing. ie better to long than to short.

What diameter perf pipe did you use? I've opted for two inch.

Steve

[bigredduke]

Yes, 2" is fine. It should just need a cut down to the second perforation to give enough diameter to go over the lip on the end cap, but you may need to go a bit futher. Just take it one step at a time, & keep fitting the end cap until it is snug & you have no lengthways movement with the perforated pipe.
I'd pop round if you weren't so far away!

I found I had to cut a bit deeper at the inlet end, because there are 3 spot welds which fix the inlet pipe to the base plate & the perf pipe needs to sit square on the base plate for a snug fit. Do the inlet pipe end first before you cut the perf pipe to length! V. important!

[Black Ferret]

Thanks Paul. Hopefully the perf pipe'll be waiting for me when I get home tomorrow

[Dave G]

The innards of your inlet cans are a lot neater than mine were.
I also couldn't quite get the inlet stub cut low enough to seat the perforated pipe properly in one of the cans(top one I think) and ended up cutting a small semicircle shape out of it to enable a close fit around the angled inlet pipe and the rest seated firmly against the base. Probably wouldnt do it that way again but it isnt seen and hasn't caused any problems.

[Black Ferret]

The innards of your inlet cans are a lot neater than mine were.

Yeah, but you went in blind. I have the benefit of your hind sight. And that's been really useful

[Black Ferret]

After three weeks away being ceramic coated my cans are now ready for the final assembly. That is when I get the mount bracket back from the powder coaters - should be this weekend though.

Any recommendations on which exhaust sealant to use on re-assembly of the cans? I was think of nipping down to Plumb Centre to get some flue sealant.

Any opinions on this statement? http://www.yamaha-rd.com/forum/topic-23505.html

or this:

"When I reassembled the exhast on my 2CV powered hopper, I used a high temperature silicone sealant called Plumba Flue by Dow Corning.

Not knowing what to get, I went to my local plumbing supplier ( a real one, not your B&Q type place) and discussed it with him and he came up with this stuff that they use for sealing gas fires into the chimney breast. It has been in place for nearly a year and still does the job, and I used it on all the sleeve joints as well as the joints (along with gaskets) to the cylinder head."

The wonder of the internet

[bigredduke]

I just used common or garden clear silicon sealant & it seems to do the job just fine.

[Albie]

I just used common or garden clear silicon sealant & it seems to do the job just fine.

I got told this to at ducati dealer Pro Twins who also race bikes. I was suprised as they said dont waste your money. Nice one :thumbsup:

[Black Ferret]

I just used common or garden clear silicon sealant & it seems to do the job just fine.

I got told this to at ducati dealer Pro Twins who also race bikes. I was suprised as they said dont waste your money. Nice one :thumbsup:

A lot of threads on various forums say pretty much the same thing. Thanks for the confirmation folks.

[Black Ferret]

Eventually finished and fitted the cans. Here's what they look like (no longer a wheelbarrow). Thanks again for all your help people

[bigredduke]

Eventually finished and fitted the cans. Here's what they look like (no longer a wheelbarrow). Thanks again for all your help people

Do they sound as you expected then?

[Dave G]

Fab!
Now go scare some pensioners with it!:flamed:

[Black Ferret]

Do they sound as you expected then?

Loud, measured at 105 Db at Cadwell on Monday. They growl :)

Fab!
Now go scare some pensioners with it!:flamed:

I accept that mission