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Albie
23-01-2008, 08:01 PM
Well the enging has been cleaned as best as possible. Obviously the rear is cleaner than the front. Strangely around the back a bit of paint flaking near the pivot point. I have cleaned all the flakey paint as best as possible without removing too much other than hoses and oil pipes. I want to paint it and hope to start 2moro nite. Any suggestions on paint. It must adhere well to rubbish they use in factory.Im thinking a satin black smooth hammerite not sure whether I can spray easily. Dont want to take casings pf particularly. Cylinders can be hand painted as they are cast finish anyhow. Worst area is around the water pump side as lots of step out points.

Other colour options are a darker grey or maybe a magnesium colour but that may not go with the frame.
What sort of primer should I get to etch in to alloy.

While Im at it I still have to remove the two front broken exhaust studs. I have again put loads of penetrating oil on to soak. About a 1/4" showing still so do I use mole grips or drill it. How deep or how long overall are they to work out how much I may have to drill out. Are they the same thread top to bottom or two different top and bottom ie do I have to turn out the opposite way.?

Starter Sprag
23-01-2008, 08:31 PM
The threads are the same top and bottom

Try contacting a ducati dealership for new replacement studs first,
from memory don't think they were expensive

CK & AK
23-01-2008, 08:34 PM
Albie - loads of posts on this over the years mate - do a search you gubbins :D


Just a couple to get you on your way:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=23972&highlight=engine+paint

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=24206&highlight=engine+paint

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=23383&highlight=engine+paint

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=5975&highlight=engine+paint

gremlin
23-01-2008, 08:37 PM
do you have access to a mig welder ? if you do, weld a nut onto stud and then undo with a spanner, the heat generated should loosen the corrosion. drilling is akward and difficult, so resort to doing it if everything else fails

Mr G

Scotty
23-01-2008, 09:36 PM
studs ? tight socket and yup you guessed a hammer

umm etch primer and I'd recommend from personal experience metallic blue for the engine

Albie
24-01-2008, 08:38 PM
Albie - loads of posts on this over the years mate - do a search you gubbins :D


Just a couple to get you on your way:

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=23972&highlight=engine+paint

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=24206&highlight=engine+paint

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=23383&highlight=engine+paint

http://www.ukmonster.co.uk/monster/showthread.php?t=5975&highlight=engine+paint

Im too busy lol. Cleaning the poxy crud off. LOL

Albie
24-01-2008, 08:40 PM
studs ? tight socket and yup you guessed a hammer

umm etch primer and I'd recommend from personal experience metallic blue for the engine

How do you need a hammer to unwind a stud ????

Got satin black

Ps got your bits and yesterday and cheque today

Stafford
24-01-2008, 08:59 PM
How do you need a hammer to unwind a stud ????

Hit tight socket over stud, ug, then unwind with wrench, ug. :chuckle:

Albie
24-01-2008, 09:01 PM
Ah yes I see.:banghead: :banghead: :chuckle:

Stafford
24-01-2008, 09:11 PM
Not the most subtle way but it does work.
Now if you had a spark-eroder...........

Pedro
24-01-2008, 09:20 PM
Ref the broken stud, you'd be better getting hold (hire?) a decent stud extractor set. Exhaust studs can be a right tart to get out and a stud extractor is less likely to chew up what stud you have left showing.

The Kevlar Kid
25-01-2008, 07:35 AM
do you have access to a mig welder ? if you do, weld a nut onto stud and then undo with a spanner, the heat generated should loosen the corrosion. drilling is akward and difficult, so resort to doing it if everything else fails

Mr G

Or just spend £15 on a stud extractor :rolleyes:

The Kevlar Kid
25-01-2008, 07:36 AM
Ref the broken stud, you'd be better getting hold (hire?) a decent stud extractor set. Exhaust studs can be a right tart to get out and a stud extractor is less likely to chew up what stud you have left showing.

That'll teach me to read all the way to the end first.....

moor-ph0
25-01-2008, 09:06 AM
Hi,
My experiance of small stud extractor. Very tight thread - stud extractor snaps! It's hardened material and impossible to remove by normal means - hence the need to spark errode.

Geoff

gary tompkins
25-01-2008, 07:21 PM
Hi,
My experiance of small stud extractor. Very tight thread - stud extractor snaps! It's hardened material and impossible to remove by normal means - hence the need to spark errode.

Geoff

You are thinking of an easy-out extractor which are IMO sh1te. They usually snap off in the stud making it total nightmare to remove. What Pedro is on about is a cam lock stud removal tool, which goes on a rachet spanner and clamps down on the stud allowing you to hopefully wind it out....

http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=13768

The 2 nuts, molegrips and colurful language (optional) worked on mine....

http://www.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgoc&a=&p=emg/workshop3.html

But I'm guessing your stud's snapped too short? In which case welding a nut on approach could work?