Single Sided - Wheel Nut

[AGIBBS]

Hello, has anyone had trouble with the removal of their wheel nut on the single sided bikes. They seem to be extremely tight, any techniques/methods would be appreciated.:thumbsdown:

Thanks,
Andrew (South Wales)

[Dave G]

Put it in gear,and get someone to step on the back brake while you try and undo it..
If you havent got a breaker bar you might need to put a length of pipe over your spanner to give you a bit extra leverage. I had to stand on mine to loosen it.
They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory).

[NattyBoy]

they dont really need to be too tight when you put it back on...

Nat

[markus]

They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory).

Spot on Dave - what a memory you have!

[sadbiker]

Hmm might get my brother in law to loosen mine with power tools when I need to take mine off.

[Perryl]

Hello, has anyone had trouble with the removal of their wheel nut on the single sided bikes. They seem to be extremely tight, any techniques/methods would be appreciated.:thumbsdown:

Thanks,
Andrew (South Wales)

A good quality socket and a scaffold pole!

[Shandy]

They are tight (176Nm setting for a torque wrench spring to mind- but dont rely on that as truth,just my dodgy memory).

I was told not to do em up that tight as it over tightens them, the wire do da clip thingy stops it coming undone so tight is good enough not shocking tight which is what 176Nm is!!!!!

Rear brake rather than in gear is better i think as the strain on engine could damage the gears!!

[scrumpster]

[QUOTE=I the wire do da clip thingy stops it coming undone so tight is good enough not shocking tight which is what 176Nm is!!!!![/QUOTE]

Is that a technical term then? 176 seems very tight compared to what m,y old bike was but then maybe it's different with a single sided swingarm, guess I'll find out when I have to do whatever it is you loosen it for!!!!!

[Dave G]

Just checked the book and it does say 176Nm's thats for the 46mm rear wheel nut.
The value is for the 748- 916/996 range but the hubs are the same.
Both haynes and here:-
http://www.ducati.com/bikes/tech.jhtml;jsessionid=5Q5IQF1JKOWTACRNCB2SFEYKFUIH UIV3
Thats what I set my S2R to when I refitted the wheel and I haven't had any issues . I did see a value of 155Nm's somewhere but cant remember what for,it could be for a specific bike or wheel.

The original post was for the wheel removal though,I'll stick with my method of putting it into gear and holding in the rear brake,I then attach my socket and breaker bar and put my foot on the end,slowly I'll put more weight onto the bar,it usually gives before I have to get too unbalanced.:eyepopping:

[crust]

Copied from the excellent Shazaam on the DSC site:

Its for the 916 series bikes but the theory still applies


Rear Wheel Installation

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Minimum torque is 165Nm.

A Ducati tech bulletin and their web site specifies 176Nm ± 5% (9Nm) torque requirement for the rear wheel retaining nut (normal thread direction). This converts to 130 ± 6 lb-ft. This value is based on using grease on the threads (this is not optional.) The manual calls for Shell Retinax HDX2, an automotive grease.

In general, a thread treated with either an anti-seize or a lubricant requires a lower torque value (than a higher-friction dry thread) to create the same tension in the fastener. So, if you have changed to a titanium nut, such that anti-seize is now needed to prevent galvanic corrosion, you’ll need to torque the fastener to a approximately 10% lower value to avoid over-tensioning the fastener. A new torque wrench is probably accurate to ± 3%.

When reinstalling, first make sure that the wheel is seated properly. Mount the wheel and tighten the nut to about 50 lb-ft. Then rotate the wheel and pound the side of the tire with the heel of your hand in several places around the circumference to seat it. Then tighten to about 80 lb-ft and repeat, applying the rear brake lever to keep the wheel from turning. Finally, tighten the nut to 124 lb-ft and check the retaining pin hole alignment. Torque again as high as 137 lb-ft to line-up the holes and insert the retaining pin.

If the nut is under-torqued it will allow the nut to loosen, allowing the wheel to rotate in its mount and be damaged by repeated acceleration/braking impact loads that will ovalize the four locating pins holes on the backside of the wheel. Damage to the axle spindle can also occur. Also, a loose nut will back-off till it's stopped by the retaining pin, then bend the pin and deform the nut. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.

DURING INSTALLATION, YOU SHOULD NEVER LOOSEN THE NUT TO INSERT THE PIN. The range of correct torque values for the nut is 124-136 lb-ft so the correct procedure is to torque to the lower value, check for hole alignment and torque up to the higher value if necessary to align the holes.

Note that if you are installing aftermarket wheels, a small variation in wheel/paint thickness may make it more difficult to apply both the correct torque and also get the correct hole alignment.

Here's the important part. Ride the bike and recheck the nut's tightness. It's not uncommon to see it loosening up just a hair after the initial tightening. It's a good idea to mark the nut position with a marking pen, so that you can quickly see if the wheel has moved after a ride.


:)Crust

[Stafford]

Just checked the book and it does say 176Nm's thats for the 46mm rear wheel nut.

Anyone
What size is the nut on the other side 41mm or 42mm?

[Shandy]

Anyone
What size is the nut on the other side 41mm or 42mm?

Its 41mm on the 748/916 so would assume its the same for the single sided monsters...............

Shandy

[bigredduke]

I had a real problem undoing the sprocket-side nut. Even a mate with large metal pole over 5 feet long just lifted the bike! I bought an impact air gun (from Aldi for £15) to use with my compressor (also from Aldi) and it worked brilliantly. Definitely the best option imo, but only to undo!.

Stafford, I will check the socket size when I get home today.

[Gilps]

Same as BRD, I bought a compressor from Aldi and an air impact wrench. It's the only way I could get it undone. I've also been advised that it doesn't need to be so tight when doing it back up. I put it back on with the air wrench and then gave it a squeeze using a breaker bar.

[bigredduke]

Anyone
What size is the nut on the other side 41mm or 42mm?

Yes, it's a 41mm

[Gerry]

Same here guys .... end of ratchet cracked and snapped.... coz i had a long pipe attached for leverage ... Got it off in the end .. also the wheel was a bugger to get off because of a bit of dissimilar metal corrosion ... one year old bike! looked after and I don't think had seen rain.

I put some graphite grease on it when fitted the taper washer thing ....

how much for the Aldi compressor? is it ok kit?

[Gilps]

how much for the Aldi compressor? is it ok kit?

I don't think it's something they usually stock. They do special offers on stuff sometimes and that week it was air tools. I paid about £85 for the compressor and £15 for the wrench. It's not bad stuff. When my large industrial compressor packed up a few weeks ago I ran 4 or 5 air tools non-stop all day off the compressor. It was running flat out for 8 hours a day, for 6 days and it survived.

[Dookbob]

Look guys, 176 nm means exactly that, if you dont put enough torque on then you are not stretching the spindle. Its the bolt stretch that imparts the friction to the two parts, not enough is no good. I still think that single sided swingarms on a road bike are a load of bull s**t, especially as I had to resort to power tools to remove the wheel nut like some of you others did. The other no no is the incorrect torque on the hub bearing clamp bolts, get this wrong either way can cause nasty problems with expensive remedies.

[Capo]

Dookbob is correct, the wheel is driven by the friction between it and the spindle flange, the required clamping force is calculated to achieve the necessary friction, this translates into the torque that needs to be applied to the nut.

[Stafford]

Cor blimey, I'll assume the nut is 41mm then.............:booze:

[PDL]

176Nm is 17600 kg or 17.6 metric tonnes.

To put it into perspective medium sized nuts used for rock climbing take a load of around 9Nm or 900kg. This would mean they would take the weight of 4 Ducatis falling on them.

So 176Nm is some mighty force, just shows how much power is going through the back wheel at full tilt.

[Stafford]

If you think I'm dropping 4 Ducati's on my medium sized nuts you've got another thing coming young man. :chuckle:

[sheepshearer]

you sure - wouldn't climbing gear be rated for shock loading?

1 kg x 9.8m/s/s = 9.8N... so 176N = 176/9.8 =~ 18kg (40lb)

then 176Nm torque is the rotational force required to hold that 18kg weight stationary at the end of a 1 metre rod. or if you prefer, it's a (~3x bigger) weight of 130 lb at the end of a (~3x shorter)1 ft rod.

that's a 9 stone man standing on a 1 foot torque wrench - and if he does it to mine i'll hit him with it - especially as it only goes to 110Nm :)

[PDL]

you sure - wouldn't climbing gear be rated for shock loading?

1 kg x 9.8m/s/s = 9.8N... so 176N = 176/9.8 =~ 18kg (40lb)

then 176Nm torque is the rotational force required to hold that 18kg weight stationary at the end of a 1 metre rod. or if you prefer, it's a (~3x bigger) weight of 130 lb at the end of a (~3x shorter)1 ft rod.

that's a 9 stone man standing on a 1 foot torque wrench - and if he does it to mine i'll hit him with it - especially as it only goes to 110Nm :)


Sorry I am talking borrox, climbing gear is rated in Kn, or kilonewtons. Which is totally different to Nm. Ignore me.